Split batch exbeeriment - WLP066 vs WY1318 in NE IPA

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Morrey

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I recently visited White Labs new facility in Asheville NC where I tried a 4-way split batch of various WL yeasts in IPA beers. The WLP 066 totally took me by a pleasant surprise at the difference between this and WLP001, WLP008 and Sacc Trois. This lead me to my own split batch experiment with WLP066 and WY1318 which is truly my go to yeast for a NE IPA. Can the "King" 1318 be dethroned?

The NE IPA recipe I always use is from @Braufessor plus my IPA specialist brew buddy @TravelingLight weighed in to help me make a tweak here or there as a final adjustment on the grain bill.

Hops were Galaxy/Mosaic/Citra, and brewing salts ratios were 150ppm Chlorides to 75ppm Sulfates. Other than that, I wasn't really interested in picking apart the beer's grain and hop bills per se, but was focused on all the differences the two beers offered strictly as a function of the two different yeasts.

Spinning up the two yeasts in side by side flasks showed the more aggressive speed of 1318. Within the same afternoon building the starters, the 1318 started forming a krausen head, and the 066 had not shown signs of forming a ring yet. Lesson learned is that 066 needed 20-24 hours to come to a full krausen while the 1318 peaked in 16-18 hours. I'll also add that the date of mfg of these two yeasts was within a week of each other.

The 13G brew itself was uneventful and 1.060 wort was split 6.5G each into identical tanks and cooled down to 73F at which point the yeast was pitched. I chose this temp since both starters were at 73F on my counter and I wanted to pitch at these same temps. Once pitched, I step lowered the temps down to 68F (my ferm temp) over the next 2 hours. Fermenters are identical Ss 7G Uni tanks controlled by FTSs systems inc heaters and a glycol chiller. Every detail was as identical as possible.

As expected, the tank with 1318 started off gassing in less than 12 hours - then in 18 hours it was fully engaged. Lagging behind (again, as expected from the starter), the 066 took 18 hours to show any off gassing, then in 24 hours it was fully engaged as well. Since these two tanks were not on the same fermentation schedule, I decided not to do an early biotransformation dry hop, so I waited for both beers stabilize before dry hopping. By day 6, both beers were still, but I waited until day 9 to dry hop. I dry hopped both tanks identically for the same amount of time which was 2 days before removing the hop strainers.

After 11 days and dry hopping finished, both tanks showed stable FG's, so I slowly started lowering the temps. I did this very gradually as in 5F in the am, then another 5F in the evening. By day 14 I was around the 40F mark so that's where the beer was kegged.

I'll post pics of the beers side by side as well as a taste comparison by several folks who know and appreciate the subtleties of good IPA beers.

The Ss system does a fantastic job keeping sister tanks at the exact same temps.

2 IPA.JPG




Interesting was that both beers came out to exactly the same FG which was 1.012. Beers were carbed to the same level and same serving temps. These beers LOOKED identical and none of us could visually separate the 066 from the 1318.

IPA split.JPG

WLP 066 on the left
Tasting was blind sampled by me, my wife and a home brew buddy turned pro. My wife did my evaluation separately so I would not see. All of us agreed both beers were outstanding representatives of this style. All of us also agreed the 066 was SLIGHTLY smoother on the trailing edge and was more rounded on the palate. 1318, by contrast, was more straightforward and packed a bit more hop pronounced upfront punch that lingered to the finish. This was a real tough call to pick a favorite since I like the hop forward punch in an IPA while the wife liked the smoother edge. My brewer friend liked both equally, my wife preferred the 066 and I would pick the 1318 in a pinch.

Clearly, there is not much of a difference. I like either and both...a pro brewer had no preference as they are too close to differentiate. Going forward, I'd make a decision based on the age of the yeast and the price difference if buying in a LHBS. Honestly, I like both equally and wouldn't turn around for the difference. Lets call this one a dead heat and a tie for outstanding beers produced from two of the best yeasts out there.
 
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Sweet setup. How do you like those unitanks?

Thanks @Braufessor. I have followed and used your NE IPA recipe for quite some time and keep a keg going at all times. I continue to be pleased with the Ss Uni Tanks based on the versatility and benefits they offer. Pictured on top are the 2 - 7G tanks and to the left is a 14G tank for double batches. I usually do NE IPA's in single batches since they seem better fresh despite closed loop transfers with limited O2 exposure. This double keg split batch NE IPA was an exception to the rule with larger than normal volumes. Longer term beers like stouts and lagers get the 14G treatment.

The Uni Tank is rated for 30 psi, but the PRV on top of the 3" TC port relieves at 18 psi. Note the adjustable spunding valve(s) I purchased optionally that allows me to have control of the venting pressures so I can carb under pressure. If I need to go over 18 psi, I replace the PRV with a blank TC cap, then set the spunding to the desired pressure. By virtue of this setup, I can carb beer fairly close to serving pressures once the temp is dropped.

The only real drawback besides the initial investment is that cleaning is a PITA. I use a CIP ball with hot PBW wash and that does a squeaky clean job. However, the entire system does need to be broken down and each TC fitting and gasket needs soaking and cleaning. The faces of the ferrules still hold yeast trub after the CIP, so if proper dissassembly cleaning is not done, infections are likely to happen sooner or later. Other than that, I'll call my system darn near ideal.
 
I'm not a micro-biologist so understanding yeast strains is not in my wheel house per se. But as this split batch beer has aged a few days since my review, I am not able to tell the difference. The sharper edge mentioned from the 1318 has all but become as smooth as 066.

Are these two strains extremely closely related? If it had not been for the speed difference between these 2 yeasts, I'd almost believe they were the same thing. Really close now and basically hard to tell them apart.
 
Are these two strains extremely closely related? If it had not been for the speed difference between these 2 yeasts, I'd almost believe they were the same thing. Really close now and basically hard to tell them apart.

I've not seen anything about WLP066, but 1318 is most closely related to 1098 and WLP017 Whitbread II.

The Whitbread yeasts got everywhere in British brewing, so it wouldn't be a surprise if they were related directly or indirectly. Plus White Labs will have seen how well 1318 was doing for Wyeast and wanted to mirror it.
 
I need to do another iteration of my hazy ipa; might have to give one of these a try.

I'd be fairly certain you'd like either of these selections in your IPA, @mongoose33. Compared to some of the other strains I tried at White Labs in a 4-way split batch, 066 was a home run. I used US-05 (WLP001) many times, but when pitted against 066, it fell quite short in my opinion.

I'm finally getting the big picture realizing the impact various yeast strains have on the same beer.
 
I'd be fairly certain you'd like either of these selections in your IPA, @mongoose33. Compared to some of the other strains I tried at White Labs in a 4-way split batch, 066 was a home run. I used US-05 (WLP001) many times, but when pitted against 066, it fell quite short in my opinion.

I'm finally getting the big picture realizing the impact various yeast strains have on the same beer.

I visited my LHBS yesterday and picked up some 066, so that's what I'm going with.

Want to brew this weekend, not sure with all the snow headed our way if I'll be able to do that. I can't figure out how to time the starter (I pitch the whole thing in, none of this crash and decant stuff for me! :)). I like to pitch it at about 15 hours after it begins so timing that is an issue.

Maybe I can get one going tonite late...Sat night I have a poker game so can't do a starter then. Maybe I'll just accept the slow ramp-up in fermentation.....nah, I hate that.
 
I visited my LHBS yesterday and picked up some 066, so that's what I'm going with.

Want to brew this weekend, not sure with all the snow headed our way if I'll be able to do that. I can't figure out how to time the starter (I pitch the whole thing in, none of this crash and decant stuff for me! :)). I like to pitch it at about 15 hours after it begins so timing that is an issue.

Maybe I can get one going tonite late...Sat night I have a poker game so can't do a starter then. Maybe I'll just accept the slow ramp-up in fermentation.....nah, I hate that.

I think 15 hours will do the job - 20 to 24 will be a full head for sure...but that may not be entirely necessary with this aggressive strain. I also pitched my entire 1L starter and that works just fine.

Will your 5KW heater keep the garage warm enough to brew comfortably in extreme weather?
 
I think 15 hours will do the job - 20 to 24 will be a full head for sure...but that may not be entirely necessary with this aggressive strain. I also pitched my entire 1L starter and that works just fine.

Will your 5KW heater keep the garage warm enough to brew comfortably in extreme weather?

I've been giving it a bit of a workout lately and it's great. Should allow me to brew no matter what the outside weather is like.
 
I think 15 hours will do the job - 20 to 24 will be a full head for sure...but that may not be entirely necessary with this aggressive strain. I also pitched my entire 1L starter and that works just fine.

Will your 5KW heater keep the garage warm enough to brew comfortably in extreme weather?

BTW, it occurred to me I should report on what I have in the garage. When I had 240v power extended to the garage, the sole purpose was to support brewing...and maybe someday an electric vehicle.

I don't know what made me look into this, but I searched for electric garage heaters at Menards; they have one for $69.99 that appeared to be just what the doctor ordered. Then they had their 11% off sale, and that dropped the price to $62.30. At that price....well, how could I not put an electric heater in the garage?

I had to buy a $20 circuit breaker, and some armored cable, which put the total cost somewhere around $115.

Here's what it looks like; I now have it tilted down a bit, and it's the cat's meow.

garageheater.jpg

I know that there would be some concern over the cost of electricity to do this, but it actually costs more in propane to heat the garage that way. I can turn this on for an hour, and 5000 watts is about 60 cents of electricity.

If there's a place this will cost more, now I have little excuse to not do other projects in the garage during the winter. :)
 
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