Sour, harsh flavors in first two Batches...

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Blootster

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Heyo, I was hoping someone on this helpful forum could help me diagnose the problem with the flavors i'm finding in my early batches, since I can't find anyone among my friends that can help identify it.

I'll describe the flavors, and then i'll do my best to give an exhaustive breakdown of ingredients, and my process throughout the batches.

Flavors:
It's sour (not quite lambic/sour flavor), and harsh, almost like an alcohol burn, could be chemical-esque but i'm not sure. This flavor also dominates the aroma of the beers. One thing I noticed is that the intensity / harshness is not consistent across my bottles, some bottles are undrinkable, and some are bordering on acceptable. Also, this flavor was the same in both batches of the porter, the coffee only helped to hide it slightly.

Batch 1 - Robust Porter
Ingredients
6.60 lb Light Liquid Malt Extract

Grains:
1.00 lb Munich Malt
1.00 lb Crystal 40L malt, crushed
0.75 lb Chocolate malt, crushed
0.50 lb pound Black patent malt, crushed

Hops:
1 oz Cascade hops—60 minutes
1 oz Cascade hops—15 minutes
6 gallons of tap water, split

Brew Day
Sanitized all brewing equipment with Star San (soaked for 1hr in sanitized buckets), added 6 gallons of tap water to brew kettle (newly purchased) and started warming with burner heat. During this time I took all my crushed grain, placed inside grain sack, and sat inside kettle with lid on. Removed grain sack and lid at 170 and let grains drain (did not squeeze bag). Then we slowly started to add LME, stirring while adding, and let water heat to boil. After boil hit, I kept lid off but could not maintain rolling boil. Started 60 minute boil timer, and did my hops per schedule. I created a sanitized ice bath for my kettle, and let it sit in there for ~45 minutes, until wort was ~70 degrees.

Poured out sanitized water from fermenter, pour half of dried yeast (not re-hydrated) into bucket (I was using a bottling bucket, with spout attached for this, I realize this was wrong now), opened ball valve on kettle to slosh and pour into bucket, after 2.5 gallons had transferred I poured remaining yeast in and continued to transfer. Placed bucket in basement.

Fermenting
Started seeing bubbles in air lock within 10 hours, krausen at 10 hours, air lock bubbled over on day 2, had to clean and replace. Fermentation I noticed slowing down around one week. The temperature was not consistent while fermenting. Most days it sat in the mid 60s, but we got a heat wave and it peaked in the mid 70s or higher for one day. During this time moved the fermenter to several places in house to keep it cool.

Bottling
Bottled after 4 weeks. At this point I split the batch 2.5 gallons and 2.5 gallons, one would have cold brew added, and one not. As always I sanitized all equipment, bottles, racking cane, bottle buckets, spigots, bottle wand, brushes, measuring cup.

I boiled my 2/3 cup, store bought cane sugar (looks like little yellow crystals) and let cool. During this time I took 10 oz of cold brewed coffee, and poured in the bottom of my sanitized bottling bucket. I then split my priming sugar between buckets, and carefully racked beer (keeping racking cane close to top of beer level). We capped each bottle and let them sit 2 weeks. It has been ~4 months since this was bottled and flavor is still very strong in beer. All other aspects appear normal, beer has great carbonation, thick head that holds, and dark color.


Batch 2 - Deschutes Obsidian Stout Clone
Ingredients
6.60 lb of Liquid Malt Extract

Grains:
1.25 lb Baird black
1.00 lb Great Western crystal
10.0 oz Briess Carapils
10.0 oz Great Western Munich
10.0 oz Great Western wheat
2.00 oz Baird roasted barley

Hops:
1.00 oz Galena pellet - 90 min
1.00 oz Willamette pellet - 30 min
1.00 oz Northern Brewer pellet - 5 min
2 vials of liquid White Labs WLP002 (no starter created)

Brew Day
Same as batch one, filled my plastic buckets with water and star san, soaked all gear for 1+ hour, and cleaned my brew kettle. I added all grains to a single grain bag (should probably have used two) and it was very tight. I then used store bought spring water, filled 5 gallons in brew kettle and heated up to 170 degrees, cut heat to low, and dropped in grain bag to steep for 40 minutes. Lifted out grain bag, ran remaining 1.5 gallons of water (room temp) through center of grain bag and discarded grains. Water now topped to 6.2 gallons, turned up heat, and started to slowly add liquid malt extract, stirring smoothly.

Once boiling, started 90 minute timer, first hop addition. This time, to maintain intense boil (and hopefully kill more bacteria) I left on the lid of my kettle with it slightly cracked to vent air. This resulted in a consistent and intense boil. Final volume 5.2 gallons. Created sanitized ice bath for kettle, however I did not have enough ice, so it cooled for ~2 hours to roughly 75 degrees. Figuring this enough I took my room temperature liquid yeast vials, poured both into the bottom of the fermenter (now glass carboy), and opened ball valve on kettle to let it pour through funnel.

Fermenting
Carboy is now placed in my room with A/C running constantly throughout the 3 week fermentation. For this brew I set up blow off valve using sanitized hose, spent water jug with sanitized water filled in, and carboy cap. Days 1-4 had violent fermentation, high krausen, and filled water jug. Average temp was 67-72 degrees external temp to carboy. On day 20 I bottled.

Bottling
Same process and equipment as before but this time used auto siphon. Sanitized as usual. I used northern brewers carbonation calculator, and used the same process with 115 grams of weighed out priming sugar (same crystalline cane sugar), boiled, cooled, and placed in bottle bucket. I again used coffee (trying to mimic Obsidian), 22 oz of cold brew, and racked over top of both. At this point I used my sanitized paddle to give it a gentle mix. Then used filler wand to fill and cap bottles.

At this point they have been in bottle for 2-3 weeks, and I am cracking a bottle each week. They have decent carbonation, but again the flavors are sour and strikingly similar to batch one, with only slight improvements in taste. Again beer looks normal, with the only difference being some sediment in the bottom of the bottles (I attribute this to putting racking cane too far into fermenter).

If you read all of this I commend you! I just am desperate for some kind of way to identify this flavor so I can go on to make some homebrew that anyone will want to drink.

Thanks,
Bloot
 
When is this sour flavor showing up? Is this showing up after fermentation? Have you sampled the beer during the bottling process or some other time after fermentation has slowed down before bottling?
 
Could this simply be EXTRACT TWANG?

I see no obvious problems in procedure. Any variations are just that. ..typical personal variations in method that some might do differently based on belief or knowledge but i don't see them causing the off flavor you are getting.

Try a Dry malt extract. To my tastes LME produces a far more pronounced extract twang than DME.

Also get a hydrometer. I'm sure following posters will ask for those readings
 
Could this simply be EXTRACT TWANG?

I see no obvious problems in procedure. Any variations are just that. ..typical personal variations in method that some might do differently based on belief or knowledge but i don't see them causing the off flavor you are getting.

Try a Dry malt extract. To my tastes LME produces a far more pronounced extract twang than DME.

Also get a hydrometer. I'm sure following posters will ask for those readings

You know, I'm a 100% extract or partial-mash brewer and strongly feel most cases of "extract twang" are falsely diagnosed. In my experience it's usually bad process.

However, the OP said, which I missed previously, "Water now topped to 6.2 gallons, turned up heat, and started to slowly add liquid malt extract, stirring smoothly." This is leading me to believe that the kettle was on the flame while the extract was being added. If this is the case you did two things wrong which could lead to "twang". You added the extract while on flame, which can easily cause carmelization of the sugars in the extract and it implies you also added all of the extract at the beginning of the boil. You need to make sure you are adding extract to hot water that is off the heating source, and also only add 20-20% of the extract in the beginning of the boil, the rest at flameout. This reduces burning of the sugar, helps with fermentability, and keeps any off flavors associated with carmelization from cropping up.

This could be your issue, but I've tasted a "twanged" beer and I would never have called the off-flavors sour or harsh, and it's definitely not inconsistent throughout the bottles from the same batch.
 
I had what I described as sour when I fermented my first brew too warm for just one day. I let it go for 2 weeks in primary and 3 weeks in secondary. The taste mellowed before I bottled.

I think you may have produced some fusel alcohols due to fermenting too warm. I never let ales ferment above 70 degrees. Though I will let them get warm after I think I have reached FG, to allow any more yeast activity to finish. Fermentation creates heat. So a wort fermenting at ambient of 70 degrees might get as warm as 80 degrees. Try to control your fermentation temperature in the mid sixties. Look up swamp cooler.

On the second one I see that you boiled with the lid on. That could lead to increased levels of DMS. I don't know off the top of my head what that off flavor is. You do not need a vigorous boil and any bad things will be killed below boiling temperatures anyway.
 
I unfortunately have only tried it at bottling time. Each batch I felt like I tasted this flavor lightly, and it was enhanced after bottle conditioning, but it could just be my pallet.
 
I thought the same thing, and i'll probably be using DME for the next batch (hoppy APA), but I strongly feel that my flavors cannot be completely extract twang. If all extract beers tasted like this, no one would make extract beers I believe hahahaha.

I have a hydrometer but i'm still learning how to use the thing!
 
Yes I completely agree, something is messed up in my process, which is why I brain dumped on here and people are already giving me some good ideas.

I am adding LME with heat on! I'll try this for my next batch (planning to make a hoppy APA with dried malt extract). Is the process you suggest the same if using dried extract?
 
May consider leaving lid off for next brew. I've heard mixed things about DMS formation on homebrew, especially with leaving lid on or off, so I figured it was riskier to have a weak boil and leave bacteria than any slight risk of DMS. Perhaps I was wrong though.

I do really want to get my fermentation temperatures under control. I feel it's highly likely that temp was WAY too high considering my external temps were ~70. It's just very tough in my house without central air. I'll either be making a swamp cooler, or picking up a fridge/temp controller.
 
Yes you want to add all of the extract, dry or liquid, with the pot OFF the flame. Adding 50-70% of your extract late (with 5 minutes left or at flame out) will help even further. Right at flameout you are over the pasteuration temperature so there is no fear of contamination.

Also, controlling your temps will make probably the largest difference in your beer. I highly recommend adding something like that to your equipment cache.

Don't be thwarted away from extract because of these issues. Just get your process in check and you'll be solid.
 
Boiling with the lid on is less of a problem for DMS problems with extract, but can still happen. As I mentioned before, an "intense" boil is unnecessary. As long as it does boil is all that really matters.

I would bet that you could brew a decent beer without even reaching a boil, but that is when the hot break happens, coagulating proteins and allowing them to drop into the trub.

After all there are pre-hopped extract kits that you do not boil at all.
 
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