Soldering Stainless steel

[nostalgia]

I can't remember who posted using "rings" of solder around the couplings but that is genius!!!

You're welcome

Srsly, glad it's working out for so many. If I do another I'll see if I can video it.

-Joe

 

[BargainFittings]

You're welcome

Srsly, glad it's working out for so many. If I do another I'll see if I can video it.

-Joe

Oh, now I see how it works! I steal the idea from somewhere and post it and Joe takes the credit!

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/soldering-stainless-steel-155782/index27.html#post2265610

Seriously though its a great way to get a flat solder joint.

 

[nostalgia]

roflcopters I completely forgot you suggested it to me in the first place At least I credited you elsewhere

If you had thinner gauge solder you could put a loop in the groove and just heat the coupling until the solder flows.

This is an excellent idea. Danke.

-Joe

 

[BrewBeemer]

That's funny, now play nicely.

 

[Flomaster]

don't care who thought of it, I'm most definitely going to go that route when I solder my couplings this weekend

Cheers.

-=Jason=-

 

[BargainFittings]

I can't take credit for it. I saw it somewhere and would credit them if I could remember it.

 

[Flomaster]

well first attempt was a major fail.

keg tool = success and coupling is tight in the keg.

either that stay-sliv flux was **** or my solder was **** not sure which of the two it was, but I ended up with a liquid ring of solder and it wasn't sticking to the keg or the coupling.

EDIT: I believe the stay-sliv flux was meant for braising so its for MUCH higher temps hence why it didn't work for me.

im just going to have to pony up and buy that liquid flux and some quality solder I suppose. maybe my map gas was to hot im not sure. but i started out far away from the coupling and circled around getting closer and closer to the coupling. so I wasn't just giving it direct heat.

I used some fine grit sand paper around the hole in the keg and on the end of the coupling to make sure it would stick.

so I am buying this flux https://weldingsupply.securesites.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:UNDEF594752:AND:SCLF32 Harris stay-clean 32oz liquid and I'll use some plumbing solder.


-=Jason=-

 

[ScubaSteve]

Yup. You gotta use the liquid flux. I guess it just allows the solder to wick better......

 

[BrewBeemer]

If the flux can not go deep into tight spots by capillary action solder will not follow as acid flux will go in provided the joint is clean and not coated with any water repellent based coatings be it petroleum based or man made synthetic based.

 

[Flomaster]

well I was on the weldingsupply.com website and was about to place an order when my shipping was going to be $8.65 I said F*ck that. So I went to JwHarris.com looked for a local distributor and found out there was an AirGas supply just down the road, I called them up and asked about Stay-Clean Liquid Solder, he said he had a 4oz paste for $2.65 Great I'll swing by at lunch.

so I get in there and see hanging on the wall was the Stay-Brite Silver Solder kit for $6.xx I picked that up instead.
http://www.airgas.com/browse/productDetail.aspx?Category=26&product=RAD64001776

its made by Radnor which is a division of Harris I guess its brand naming for AirGas.

I'm stoked to try my luck again.


so just a run down of what to do:

1. clean coupling and keg very well. any solution of product I should use?
2. apply flux around coupling in the gap
3. insert ring of solder or rings of solder depending on solder thickness ( I have plumbing solder that is pretty thick, and the kit I just bought has very thin solder)
4. fire up torch of Mapp gas and heat a good distance from the coupling getting the surrounding area hot circling closer to coupling.
5. solder should melt once proper temp is achieved
6. wipe with damp rag or cloth to clean.
7. ??????????
8. profit

-=Jason=-

 

[nostalgia]

1. clean coupling and keg very well. any solution of product I should use?
2. apply flux around coupling in the gap
3. insert ring of solder or rings of solder depending on solder thickness ( I have plumbing solder that is pretty thick, and the kit I just bought has very thin solder)
4. fire up torch of Mapp gas and heat a good distance from the coupling getting the surrounding area hot circling closer to coupling.
5. solder should melt once proper temp is achieved
6. wipe with damp rag or cloth to clean.
7. ??????????
8. profit

Here's what I do. I'm sure others have equally valid techniques:

1: I use grease and wax remover, followed by 150/220 grit sandpaper. I use acetone for a final cleaning before applying flux. You can use acetone for the whole cleaning, but I have the grease and wax remover on hand, so I use that first.
2. Yes, and I use a dental pick to wipe the puddle of flux around to make sure everywhere I want solder has wet flux on it.
3. Yes. I wrap the solder around the outside of the coupler first to shape the ring.
4. Sort of. I do heat up the surrounding area a bit, but mostly focus on the fitting itself. Since the keg is so relatively thin compared to the coupling, once the coupling is hot enough to melt the solder, the keg will already be there. So I start out warming up the keg around the coupling, but then pretty much exclusively concentrate heat on the fitting, since it will have the most thermal mass.
5. Yes. Once the solder flows, I heat for another second and stop.
6. After the joint is cool, yes. This may take longer than you think - don't move the keg if you don't want to flow solder everywhere. Ask me how I know
7. Have a homebrew.
8. Win!

-Joe

 

[nostalgia]

Oh also, be sure to thoroughly clean the fitting before pulling it into the keg! After sanding and acetone, I apply a little bit of flux to the fitting as I'm pulling it through to make sure the joint is super-clean.

-Joe

 

[Flomaster]

sand paper really well, clean with acetone, heat mostly with direct heat on coupling.
I have no Home Brew to partake in I'll have to swing by the store and pick up a sixer of some thing different.

I hope all goes well this time for me.

my brew kit and Hefeweizen arrive on monday I can't wait to brew on the weekend of the 11th so long as I have everything in order. which I should once the keggle is soldered up.

-=Jason=-

 

[BargainFittings]

Another tip is to have a fan to keep the fumes out of your face / lungs.

Definitely don't move anything until the joint has froze. Don't try to hurry it by spraying with water or flux or a wet rag until the solder is fully solid or you will have to reheat the joint to smooth it back out.

I'm no expect at this just yet, but I have soldered hundreds of stainless parts together now and it goes fast once you do about 4 or 5 solder joints.

Wayne

 

[Flomaster]

thanks guys my first go around was a complete disaster I have more confidence now that I have the correct solder and flux.

I did use a mini fan last time to blow the fumes away from me and out of the garage.

-=Jason=-

 

[ScubaSteve]

Another tip is to have a fan to keep the fumes out of your face / lungs.

Definitely don't move anything until the joint has froze. Don't try to hurry it by spraying with water or flux or a wet rag until the solder is fully solid or you will have to reheat the joint to smooth it back out.

I'm no expect at this just yet, but I have soldered hundreds of stainless parts together now and it goes fast once you do about 4 or 5 solder joints.

Wayne

+1 to this, something about getting a feel for when you're "almost there"...and stopping once it turns to liquid. I guess welding is the same way, except you're working with the liquid in the form of a puddle.

 

[Flomaster]

ok so I successfully soldered one coupling in tonight. it was the keg i used the wrong flux on and had to do some serious clean up on. I used a hammer and towel and make my hole slightly smaller as I could see a little bit of light and it wasn't as tight as it was the first time i pulled it through.

I used paint thinner to clean my keg and coupling as I didn't have acetone. it worked well.

I loaded up the flux all around the coupling and laid a 2 coil tall piece of solder in there.(I was using the skinny stuff that comes in the kit) I heated around the base of the coupling and into the inside from the outside of the keg, when I saw the flux start to bubbled out I pulled the torch off and went inside the keg and heated around the coupling and melted the solder.

t looked decent looked it it needed more solder. I let it cool wiped it clean and cut another coil fluxed and heated it up.

the results are as follows.

****ty cell phone pics, and i don't think my D80 would even focus at such a close distance anyways.

lil man was NOT happy to be put in the keg right after I did a leak test, still kinda wet in there and he was bare footed.

my next coupling I'll recess it slightly lower than this one. and it will look much better.

over all I am very happy and convinced you need the Harris Stay-Clean Flux not sure if its the liquid or just the stay-clean flux, but for anyone else reading DO NOT EVERY TRY UNLESS YOU HAVE STAY-CLEAN FLUX. Preferably Liquid Flux

-=Jason=-

EDIT:I realized after I drilled my hole that my valve was right above a vent hole do you think the extra heat will effect my valve at all? if so I can use some of the lid and solder a heat shield type of device to block the hole.

 

[klyph]

Hit that with some Bar Keepers Friend and that will be a beautiful solder joint. Hell it looks great as is.

I think the fact that your coupler is all the way on the outside plus the hex nipple moves the ball valve out of harms way, but you could always stuff the hole with tinfoil if it's a problem.

 

[Flomaster]

cool BKF can be had at a local Super Market or a hardware store?

-=Jason=-

 

[ScubaSteve]

Yup! Nice Joint!

 

[Flomaster]

Yup! Nice Joint!

thanks, I have 5 more 1/2" couplings im trying to figure out how I want to go about my system and outfit my two keggles. I know I need a pump asap now to make my life easier.

-=Jason=-

 

[the_bird]

cool BKF can be had at a local Super Market or a hardware store?

-=Jason=-

Yeah, it tends to get hidden among the cleaning supplies either way on the top or bottom shelf. I find it at Target and at Home Depot, pretty sure the local supermarket has it as well. It's a gold, tubular canister.

 

[BrewBeemer]

Yup! Nice Joint!

And it's a manly one at that.

 

[klyph]

cool BKF can be had at a local Super Market or a hardware store?

-=Jason=-

It's usually in the Supermarket with the cleaning products.

Just be careful, you'll make one shiny spot and be tempted to do the whole keg.

 

[Bobby_M]

As much as I admire the pull through tool, it would been just as effective soldering the flat of the hex nipple directly to the keg wall. It would also keep the ball valve over an inch closer to the vessel.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

...

-=Jason=-

EDIT:I realized after I drilled my hole that my valve was right above a vent hole do you think the extra heat will effect my valve at all? if so I can use some of the lid and solder a heat shield type of device to block the hole.

I would be concerned about the heat venting from the hole in the keg skirt.
I don't think you will be able to solder a heat shield... the propane will be too hot. You might be able to bolt something in place.

Ed

 

[Flomaster]

I would be concerned about the heat venting from the hole in the keg skirt.
I don't think you will be able to solder a heat shield... the propane will be too hot. You might be able to bolt something in place.

Ed

keg number two does not have the hole right over a heat shield hole so its possible I can still use this keggle for some thing other than a BK ?

@ Bobby, for my second keggle I have the hole drilled and keg toole already dimpled for a coupling would it be worth it to just solder my hex nipple into the keg rather than a coupling?


-=jason=-

 

[Ohio-Ed]

keg number two does not have the hole right over a heat shield hole so its possible I can still use this keggle for some thing other than a BK ?

@ Bobby, for my second keggle I have the hole drilled and keg toole already dimpled for a coupling would it be worth it to just solder my hex nipple into the keg rather than a coupling?


-=jason=-

It would make a great MT if you are not direct heating with propane.

If you drilled and dimpled for a coupling, I think the hole will be to big for the hex nipple.

Sounds like you're making good progress

Ed

 

[BrewBeemer]

keg number two does not have the hole right over a heat shield hole so its possible I can still use this keggle for some thing other than a BK ?-=jason=-

Add a 1/4-20 SS bolt, washers and nut thru that hole and forget about it.

 

[Flomaster]

here is my second attempt at the coupling soldering. This time it went flawlessly. made sure I had a clean coupling and keg. used the liquid flux it puddled nicely in the groove around the coupling. I put my 2 coils of solder in the groove. heated from the outside directly on the coupling. once I saw the flux start to smoke and solder wick its way through I stopped.

here is the result.

I'm very happy with the way this turned out. I didn't use anything to clean it up, I just wiped it down with a damp rag and a little flux.

-=Jason=-