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Soldering Stainless steel

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Can you use soldering if you have a direct fire system or can this only be used with electric systems? I was just wondering if it could withstand the output of heat the burners would produce? If so, I may go this route. Any good sources for the flux and solder?
 
If your kettles are hitting 430F during a normal brew day, they don't have any liquid in them. You can definitely use solder on any vessel as long as you don't light the fire when it's empty.
 
Usually a person will only dry fire a kettle once.

You will end up melting handles, o-rings and seals on the valves.

Welding supply stores carry what you need.
Online stores have the small kits with the flux and some silver solder.
 
Thanks Bobby. I may go this route; cheaper than paying a welder. Anyone know the cheapest spot for correct solder and flux?
 
The last batch mixed cut with 25% water added a short strip of zinc dissolved then applied with a acid brush. It boils off clean, the secret is to not overheat the stainless as the solder will just ball up with no capillary action. Sand bright and start over as once overheated your wasting your time. My LWS also has liquid SS flux in 2-4 oz bottles, keep it off anything you do not want destroyed clothing included.
 
I found the flux at a welding supply store where I get CO2 tanks filled. I will be using regular plumbing solder from HD/Lowes. I have not attempted the solder yet but these products were recommended by others that have had good luck.
 
There are a few different ways to go.

They have small project kits with about 4 feet of solder and a small squirt bottle of flux (maybe 1oz). It's enough for a few fittings.

Harris makes one for under $10.

http://cgi.ebay.com/HARRIS-STAY-BRI...251?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33626a1c03

There's also the ESAB Dynagrip 430 kit which the welding shop told me is "better" whatever that means. I paid $20 for that kit.

http://www.scottgrossstore.com/servlet/the-15674/ESAB-All-dsh-State-Dynagrip-430/Detail

Each joint obviously gets cheaper if you're willing to buy a full 1 pound roll of solder and a 16oz bottle of flux.
 
Thanks for the Scott Gross link, Bobby....I bought a Harris O/A set and the tips are hard to find. Wish I got a Victor knockoff......
 
Think ahead it's way cheaper in the long run when purchaing materials, not for one or a couple jobs but many unless your already 95 years old. JMO.

Does liquid flux go bad? I wouldn't think but who knows. If you know exactly what products you need to buy in a larger quantity isn't bad. If you don't know exactly what you need and need to experiment is another thing.
 
Do you all recommend using the keg tool for making the dimple or is it ok to just solder into the drilled hole?
 
Definitely use the keg tool. The dimple is what locks the coupler in place and provides the strength. If you just solder it in, it will likely break off without too much force. You would also have to drill a very precise hole to keep the solder from just running through.
 
The dimple is all about a snug fit and surface area. You can create similar surface area by using a fitting like a hex nipple instead of a coupling. I think people put couplings in as a standard without really thinking about the alternatives.
 
The dimple is all about a snug fit and surface area. You can create similar surface area by using a fitting like a hex nipple instead of a coupling. I think people put couplings in as a standard without really thinking about the alternatives.

The problem with the alternatives like hex nipples, hex couplers, reducing bushings, etc. is that they all tend to be much more expensive than regular couplers/half couplers.
 
The problem with the alternatives like hex nipples, hex couplers, reducing bushings, etc. is that they all tend to be much more expensive than regular couplers/half couplers.

Yeah, like 2 bucks more each. I'm just giving the guy alternatives if he doesn't want to build the tool. I wouldn't trust a close nipple stuck through a plain hole, but that's just my uneducated opinion. I haven't tried it. You could also solder a large washer over the hole on the outside to more than double the wall thickness.
 
When you clean the area for soldering, what do you use? Do you grind it down with an angle grinder or just clean the area? Thanks for all the help guys.
 
Yeah, like 2 bucks more each. I'm just giving the guy alternatives if he doesn't want to build the tool. I wouldn't trust a close nipple stuck through a plain hole, but that's just my uneducated opinion. I haven't tried it. You could also solder a large washer over the hole on the outside to more than double the wall thickness.

I've done a half coupler through a simple hole (before I saw the light)..it's strong, but I'd hate to have it fail. Plus, I love the professional look of the dimple so I may take it down and dimple the hole with a 3/4" full coupler. IME, half couplers are okay, and cheaper, but they limit your options....especially if you want to add a diptube inside and a valve on the outside.
 
Just bought a bunch of fittings on bargainfittings. I'll have to take a stab at soldering these one my three keggles when I get the time. Should be fun.
 
I'll make the tool. I agree with scubasteve on the professional look. The dimple can be made for 1/4 couplers correct? I'll need those for my bobby m sight glasses. By the way Bobby, excellent product!
 
I'll make the tool. I agree with scubasteve on the professional look. The dimple can be made for 1/4 couplers correct? I'll need those for my bobby m sight glasses. By the way Bobby, excellent product!

you just need the correct size "tool" for the coupling your using.

so yes you can dimple a 1/4 hole.


-=Jason=-
 

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