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Solder instead of spade connections

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Nemanach

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I am building a panel using Auber’s Cube kit. The 115v plugs and fuse holders have male spade connectors on them with the intent of using blue female spade connectors on the wires. I don’t have any and it seems silly to order a bunch online if I only need 10. Also I’m using solid 14awg building wire from NM cable I have laying around and I don’t have a proper crimper so I’d be soldering them to the wires.

Is there any reason I can’t/shouldn’t solder wires directly to the connectors on the plug and fuse connectors shown on the attached picture?
 

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I am building a panel using Auber’s Cube kit. The 115v plugs and fuse holders have male spade connectors on them with the intent of using blue female spade connectors on the wires. I don’t have any and it seems silly to order a bunch online if I only need 10. Also I’m using solid 14awg building wire from NM cable I have laying around and I don’t have a proper crimper so I’d be soldering them to the wires.

Is there any reason I can’t/shouldn’t solder wires directly to the connectors on the plug and fuse connectors shown on the attached picture?
I took my connectors off and put them back on a few times while laying everything out and running wiring. Flexibility? You can get them in smaller packs at AutoZone or advance Auto parts.
 
Some components are constructed to withstand the heat of soldering. Cheap fuse holders generally are not.
You may want to do a little testing to see what you are dealing with.
 
Stick a fuse in the socket prior to soldering the tabs. It'll sink some of the heat before the plastic posts have a chance to melt.
But again, it's all about a properly sized tip, well-tinned. Prolonged heating is definitely not a friend...

Cheers!
 
Good idea on the heat sink. I’ll grab the fuse holder contact with a vice grip as a heat sink, not enough room on the 115v plug though
 
As mentioned, you are dealing with some fairly large connections. If you go the solder route, use an iron with minimum of 50 watts and a large tip with some thermal mass, 3/8" - 1/2" would be my first choice. Alternately, you could use an old-school high wattage soldering gun.
 
I bet plastic melts while soldering. Man, I’ve done that.

Liquid flux for the win.

You mention liquid flux. The only flux I have is Harris SCLF4 Stay Clean which I used on my kettle, any concerns using it on this project? The solder I have is rosin core so I don’t normally use any other flux.
 
From the Harris website concerning Harris SCLF4 Stay Clean:
Typical Application: Used for soldering virtually all metals, except aluminum, magnesium or titanium. Not recommended for use in electrical or electronic applications.
 
You mention liquid flux. The only flux I have is Harris SCLF4 Stay Clean which I used on my kettle, any concerns using it on this project? The solder I have is rosin core so I don’t normally use any other flux.

Flux is essential if you want to successfully solder metals. I use liquid flux (I bought a gallon of Kester liquid flux about 20 years ago and still have about half of it haha). I suppose flux paste works fine also, but I don't like, kinda messy especially for very small components. Regarding rosin core solder, it's better than the solid core, but nothing like fluxing in advance of soldering. I've done a ton of soldering in my life.

I just looked, amazon has kester liquid flux in a bottle with the nifty little needle at the top.
 
Soldering was one of my favorite things to do at work, but breathing in the smoke fumes wasn't.
We would usually have two types of solder and I favored the one with a higher level of tin to lead. Acid based flux can be had in liquid or paste form in a round tin.
If you're soldering wires to terminals, be sure to tin both prior to making the final connection, but don't end up with the dreaded Blob. Practice a bit and be careful to keep the iron tip clean because burnt flux is not only a pain to clean off, if you're not quick, it can rob you of a good heat transfer to get a good melt.
 
You only want to use rosin flux or rosin core solder on electrical work. Acid based flux, like the Harris product for stainless will create corrosion and on-going problems on electrical connections.
 
I ended up picking a small pack of blue connectors, I soldered the blue connector on. Later I realized that the plug uses smaller connectors so I used the blue connectors for the fuse holder and soldered to the plugs then shrink tubed over it. No signs of melting.
 
He mentioned the fact that hes using solid wire.. due to expansion and contraction I believe spade connectors are not ideal for solid wire.
Thanks for the tip. Didn't realize they wouldn't work on solid wire. I've always soldered them on to my projects regardless of solid or strand, out of an abundance of caution. I probably know just enough to be dangerous.
 
Thanks for the tip. Didn't realize they wouldn't work on solid wire. I've always soldered them on to my projects regardless of solid or strand, out of an abundance of caution. I probably know just enough to be dangerous.
in fairness, if you solder them onto the wire it may be a different story im not sure.
 
Crimp connectors are not really designed for use with solid conductor wire. Soldering the wire to the crimp connector may make it a more reliable connection.
 
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