Transfer Pump Housing DIY

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stamandster

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After the last siphon transfer ... enough was enough! Time to build a transfer pump (and to be used when force carbing)

Parts List:
uxcell 10 Pcs Rubber Grommets, 25mm ID 30mm Drill Hole Double Sided Hollow Firewall Hole Plugs Round Electrical Wiring Gasket, Black https://a.co/d/2jSvK1s
Feelers 304 Stainless Steel Cast Pipe Coupling Fitting, Female Coupler Adapter Polished, 1/2" x 1/2" NPT Female Thread (1 inch Length, 2Pcs) https://a.co/d/0ANOvsl
DERNORD Stainless Steel 3/8" Hose Barb x 1/2" NPT Male - Home Brew Pipe Fitting Pack of 2 https://a.co/d/2sYWUJD
LEDMO Switching Converter, AC/DC Power Supply Adapter Transformer Driver, Regulated Voltage for Electronic, Industrial, Automotive and More - Compact, Lightweight and Energy Efficient https://a.co/d/eIGmSzd
IMOR 100W 12V DC Diaphragm Booster Water Pump 3GPM 65PSI Self-Priming Pump with Pressure Switch and Pipe Strainer for Agriculture&Garden RV Yacht Car washing Industry https://a.co/d/2aGjo0K
Gardner Bender GSW-50 Electrical Square Rocker Switch, SPST, ON-OFF, 16 A/125V AC, Spade Terminal, Red Illumination https://a.co/d/8zqkXzU
Plano Field/Ammo Box | Heavy-Duty Storage Case for Hunting and Shooting Ammunition https://a.co/d/5Anws10
PG7 cable gland
PC Power Cable
Spade connectors
PTFE tape
Step Drill Bits
Long and short screws/nuts for mounting power supply
(probably stuff I forgot)
 

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Brilliant! I love it! I've been using a racking pump since my carboy days owing to disability making it hell to move them around and they transitioned nicely with my evolution to closed O2-free transfers....I never thought to put that annoyingly noisy pump into a box!
Question: Are those grommets on the barbs a soft rubber that reduces the vibration and keeps the noise down?
Suggestion: While it's nice to see a proper power supply instead of those made-to-die-early-and-badly lump-in-line or wall-warts, those ones do get a bit warmer and so does the pump after a long run. Just for the sake of the pumps longevity, maybe a bit of venting?
Other Question: Are you gonna swag some 1/4" EVABarrier over the barbs? (..it does fit nicely ;) )
The only upgrade I've been thinking of doing to my own was to get a pump with NPT fittings and mount ball-lock posts directly on to it, but seeing this beauty you just made has me thinking a little more expansively now..Thanks!
:bigmug:
 
@Broken Crow Great questions!
  • For the amount of time I'll be running this I don't think it'll get hot enough to need venting (using a similar PSU and other heat making components inside a different box without issues). Wanted to help keep liquid out of any electrical portions. But, I'll definitely monitor it and report back (especially if I use it to force carb which could take an hour or so)!
  • The grommets were for two reasons (at least hypothetically). To help seal the outside from liquids, and also to help with vibration. The pump itself has rubber feet. And I may also in the future add rubber feet to the enclosure. If I can get an video with sound I'll upload.
  • I'm using 3/8 ID x 5/8 OD silicone tubing to reduce issues with collapsing and maintain flexibility. That my main issue with the EVABarrier plastic type tubing.
  • I had thought about quick(er) disconnects, perhaps down the road. For instance, https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/nptswivelcooltouch38barb.htm
Thanks!
 
I'm using 3/8 ID x 5/8 OD silicone tubing to reduce issues with collapsing and maintain flexibility. That my main issue with the EVABarrier plastic type tubing.
Just wondering if you've used this pump yet... Silicone tubing is usually rated for only about 15psi and that 65psi output might become an issue. Not trying to get into LODO flaming, but despite the lessened flexibility, I was initially worried about that too, but in practice I've been using the EVABarrier without any 'too tight bend' issues at all.
(especially if I use it to force carb which could take an hour or so)!
If that means something like the Blichmann Quick-Carb; one of my pumps was part of a cheap knock-off from aliexpress which I replaced with the genuine Blichmann tee and stone but after a while I gave up using as it was a nuisance that simply waiting 24-36 hours over over-pressure could better achieve without any additional clean up. Believe me I get impaiteince and while it works for many, it isn't for everyone. Still; Try everything at least a couple times or you'll never know for yourself. It might be worth mentioning here a phenomena I noticed in using the racking pump in O2-free transfers: Under pressure, the churning action of the pump alone seems to hasten force-carbing.... That is: When I closed-loop transfer flat beer from my Fermonster or sanke into a keg with the pump, it seems to get a 10-20% headstart on the force-carbing process which I can only put down to the churning of the diaphram and its consistant output pressure. ...maybe it's just me imagining it though. If you do totally closed transfers, please let me know if you observe this too.
:mug:
 
Just wondering if you've used this pump yet... Silicone tubing is usually rated for only about 15psi and that 65psi output might become an issue. Not trying to get into LODO flaming, but despite the lessened flexibility, I was initially worried about that too, but in practice I've been using the EVABarrier without any 'too tight bend' issues at all.

If that means something like the Blichmann Quick-Carb; one of my pumps was part of a cheap knock-off from aliexpress which I replaced with the genuine Blichmann tee and stone but after a while I gave up using as it was a nuisance that simply waiting 24-36 hours over over-pressure could better achieve without any additional clean up. Believe me I get impaiteince and while it works for many, it isn't for everyone. Still; Try everything at least a couple times or you'll never know for yourself. It might be worth mentioning here a phenomena I noticed in using the racking pump in O2-free transfers: Under pressure, the churning action of the pump alone seems to hasten force-carbing.... That is: When I closed-loop transfer flat beer from my Fermonster or sanke into a keg with the pump, it seems to get a 10-20% headstart on the force-carbing process which I can only put down to the churning of the diaphram and its consistant output pressure. ...maybe it's just me imagining it though. If you do totally closed transfers, please let me know if you observe this too.
:mug:

I've used it and it works well! The silicone is 1/8 wall has a burst rating of 30psi and 10psi working pressure (I use a racking cane for the input end so help keep the tube from sucking itself closed). But we're talking about both outlets being open, so it's not really "pressurized". Also, I used it for 10 gallons continuously without issues and, minimal (if any) heat output from both the pump and power supply.

If I were do do the force carb with keg I would use the Bev line. But, thanks for the info on the carbonation! Happy I didn't spend more money on it! I normally just do force carb with over pressure, but thought maybe I could speed it up.
 
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(I use a racking cane for the input end so help keep the tube from sucking itself closed).
What are you using for an FV? Since you have a pump and keg, this might be the perfect time to try doing O2-free transfers.... If it's a carboy, when I still used them I used a similar (albeit clunky) version of what @day_trippr does: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...xygen-while-transferring.490348/#post-6361107
@Bobby_M has both the bare cap https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/carboycap.htm and full kit https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ptrcarboypremium.htm available.
Sorry... since I experienced the difference in O2-free transfers in my already "great beers", I can't help but proselytize.
:rolleyes:
 
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