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Sourmash I know all about polishing.
img144121.jpg
 
After a quick search it looks like aluminum melts at 2200

Carbon Steel 2600-2800
Stainless 2750

NG burns at 3000
Propane at 3600

Both these numbers assume no heat loss. So you can figure that it will be much less at contact with your stand.

Here are some good links. Your stand should be fine

http://www.derose.net/steve/resources/engtables/flametemp.html
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/melting-temperature-metals-d_860.html

By the way. That stand looks sweet.

Without starting any pissing war most aluminum alloys decline rapidly if exposed to elevated temperatures although some retain significant strength to 500*F. Aluminum melts at 1,220*F not"2,200*F", deep red color steel your at 1,300*F. If aluminum is exposed to elevated temperatures it weakens due to mainly the coarsening of the the fine precipitutates on which the alloy depends on their strength. With the reply of the steel plate melting which is way above the deep red of 1,300*F and the 1,220*F of aluminum is the reason why I replied in ther first place. A metal frame insert to hold your keggles or pots exposed directly in the flame that is bolted to the aluminum frame plus a heat shield protecting the aluminum from any flames pushed to the side by wind or the burner cranked up high.
If the automotive world could get pistons to operate at these higher elevated conditions with a melting temp of 2,200*F we would have super clean and higher efficiency running internal combustion engines, the limiting factor would be the ignition temps of the gasoline by thes elevated temps. This in the ignition range of app 875*F causing preignition detonation and self distruction of the engines.
Try www.steelforge.com as a example, click on aluminum then click on "Learn More".
 
Without starting any pissing war most aluminum alloys decline rapidly if exposed to elevated temperatures although some retain significant strength to 500*F. Aluminum melts at 1,220*F not"2,200*F", deep red color steel your at 1,300*F. If aluminum is exposed to elevated temperatures it weakens due to mainly the coarsening of the the fine precipitutates on which the alloy depends on their strength. With the reply of the steel plate melting which is way above the deep red of 1,300*F and the 1,220*F of aluminum is the reason why I replied in ther first place. A metal frame insert to hold your keggles or pots exposed directly in the flame that is bolted to the aluminum frame plus a heat shield protecting the aluminum from any flames pushed to the side by wind or the burner cranked up high.
If the automotive world could get pistons to operate at these higher elevated conditions with a melting temp of 2,200*F we would have super clean and higher efficiency running internal combustion engines, the limiting factor would be the ignition temps of the gasoline by thes elevated temps. This in the ignition range of app 875*F causing preignition detonation and self distruction of the engines.
Try www.steelforge.com as a example, click on aluminum then click on "Learn More".

NO......... no pissing contest implied I am sure.

I hit the wrong key. Too many 2's I meant to put a 1. All I am saying is you would need a closed environment of direct heat for those burners to melt the stand. With open air and regulated use. His stand will be fine.
 




Here's my All Electric Herms...Using 3 Blichmann's 20G/15G/15G, 2 5500w element's, one in HLT, the other in the BK. A custom controller made by Brewmation, 1/2" Cam & Groove disconnects, 50' 1/2" stainless tube for the HEX, 2 march pump's, one to recirculate the mash, the other to recirculate the HLT continuously. The stand works but is temporary, until a figure something else out. Just brewed the first 12g of Oatmeal Stout last week, went pretty smoothly. It heats and boils as fast as any burner I have used.
 
If the automotive world could get pistons to operate at these higher elevated conditions with a melting temp of 2,200*F we would have super clean and higher efficiency running internal combustion engines, the limiting factor would be the ignition temps of the gasoline by thes elevated temps. This in the ignition range of app 875*F causing preignition detonation and self distruction of the engines.
Try www.steelforge.com as a example, click on aluminum then click on "Learn More".

You would have a lot more NOx formed.
 
You would have a lot more NOx formed.

Bless BMW for not adding that EGR crap to their mighty inline 6 engines without any Nox problems plus made smog legal clean HP. True higher combustion temps will increase Nox. I do not care as about everything I own is in the 50's and 60's no smog checks. With the BMEP held at 182 pounds and a tight quench ceramic topped buckets I have HP, TQ as well great dyno numbers with mpg. Cleaner exhaust than original, Nox slightly elevated. I can live with it. Back to the OP me bad. Engine building nut at this end.
 
Here is my rig. Essentially a two-tier, single burner system with 1 pump. I do batch sparges so don't need anything fancy. I just finished it, brewed a cream ale and it works well. I am already considering upgrading by adding a second burner and getting another pot to use for my MLT, since I always seem to miss my mash temps by a few degrees (right now my basement is a constant 55 F!). The stand itself is just 2 x 4's and OSB plywood with several coats of Killz. SWMBO thinks I should paint flames on the supports, prolly will eventually! The wood under the burner got a little toasty, so I used a 12" ceramic tile elevated by a couple of blocks of wood for a heat shield; the wood supports and HLT platform to the right of the burner don't even get warm.
BrewStand2b.jpg
 
Here's my rig. I do 5 gal batches and batch sparge so this works out well for me. I use the smaller kettle to heat sparge water then set it aside so I can catch the runnings right in the boil kettle. I've used it for several batches now and it works very well for me. It has casters you just can't see them very well in this pic.

rig11.jpg
 
Here is mine. I have been building it for about 2 months now and it is finally finished. I was going to add a March 809 but after using it there is no real need to spend the money, it flows very nice from level to level. Here are some pics from yesterdays brew day, I brewed a Cream ale and a Blonde back to back.
100_1182.jpg

100_1184.jpg

100_1183.jpg
 
Here is mine. I have been building it for about 2 months now and it is finally finished. I was going to add a March 809 but after using it there is no real need to spend the money, it flows very nice from level to level. Here are some pics from yesterdays brew day, I brewed a Cream ale and a Blonde back to back.

Congrats on the build man, looks real good.
I have one question though. Can somoone tell me what this is (see picture)?
temp.jpg


I have seen this on several rigs and have never seen it before the last couple of months. I would do a search, but I have no idea what you call this (catch-22).

TIA
 
Can somoone tell me what this is (see picture)?
temp.jpg


I have seen this on several rigs and have never seen it before the last couple of months. I would do a search, but I have no idea what you call this (catch-22).

TIA

It's a hop addition bag. It holds a fine mesh hop bag open so you can toss in hops and other additions during the boil without having to pull the bag out, open it, close it up and throw it back in.
 
3dog
That's a hop strainer thing, The plastic part is a PVC coupler, and some all thread to secure it to the kettle. There is a nylon paint strainer bag attached to the coupler. Think of it as a giant tea bag.
 
Every single one on here is AWESOME! You know why.... Because they are all used to make outstanding beer!!!!:mug:

3dog,
Here is a better picture of my hop sock.

100_1168.jpg

100_1165.jpg


I use it whenever I add anything to the boil, hops, spices, whatever. It works great especially when brewing beers with lots of additions at different times, like an IPA. THe parts cost me about $8 at the orange box and it took about 15 to assemble, I am not sure what the long skinny hop bag costs, I got it when I bought some guys stuff off Craigslist. Every brewer needs one!
 
Every single one on here is AWESOME! You know why.... Because they are all used to make outstanding beer!!!!:mug:

3dog,
Here is a better picture of my hop sock.

I use it whenever I add anything to the boil, hops, spices, whatever. It works great especially when brewing beers with lots of additions at different times, like an IPA. THe parts cost me about $8 at the orange box and it took about 15 to assemble, I am not sure what the long skinny hop bag costs, I got it when I bought some guys stuff off Craigslist. Every brewer needs one!

Sweet! I thought that might be what it was, but I didn't want to assume. You still get good hop utilization and don't have as big a mess to clean up? Sounds better than my Zymeco (sp) stainless mesh on the outlet port. Good idea, might have to build me one of those!
 
Sweet! I thought that might be what it was, but I didn't want to assume. You still get good hop utilization and don't have as big a mess to clean up? Sounds better than my Zymeco (sp) stainless mesh on the outlet port. Good idea, might have to build me one of those!

I built and used one for the first time this last Saturday and my primary thought was why didn't I do this sooner?
 
the Lil' Sparky Hop Sock is one of the best things I've ever added to my set-up. IPA brews are now easy instead of a PIA. Can't imagine brewing w/o it.
Yeah, I like it, too. But in all honesty it wasn't my idea. Someone else on here came up with it, and somehow I got the credit.
 
Every single one on here is AWESOME! You know why.... Because they are all used to make outstanding beer!!!!:mug:

3dog,
Here is a better picture of my hop sock.

100_1168.jpg

100_1165.jpg


I use it whenever I add anything to the boil, hops, spices, whatever. It works great especially when brewing beers with lots of additions at different times, like an IPA. THe parts cost me about $8 at the orange box and it took about 15 to assemble, I am not sure what the long skinny hop bag costs, I got it when I bought some guys stuff off Craigslist. Every brewer needs one!


Anybody have any leads on what and where the nylon bag comes from? Links would be great.
 

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