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Breworx said:
Here's my 20 gallon brew rig. I decided to build it for two reasons 1) I like beer; 2) I wanted to learn how to weld. It wasn't the first thing I built - a workbench, compressor stand, and welding cart came first - but it was my first real project.

The butcher block table in the first picture is a recent (and incomplete) addition. I use it as a prep table when brewing and the rig stores away underneath it when not in use.

Nice. What burners are you using?
 
Breworx said:
10 in high pressure banjo burners.

Ok so I want to do the same thing but was thinking of a 6" banjo burner that comes with the sq 14 for the MLT. If I did that could I still use the 30 psi regulator that came with my kab4 for all three and adjust each via valves?
 
Ok so I want to do the same thing but was thinking of a 6" banjo burner that comes with the sq 14 for the MLT. If I did that could I still use the 30 psi regulator that came with my kab4 for all three and adjust each via valves?

Sure, that's definitely possible. Since i use identical burners for my HLT, MLT, and BK, I only need to adjust the regulator once, and when the flame is dialed in on one burner, it's dialed on all 3 and rarely needs adjustment. In your case, getting all three burners dialed in is going to take one extra step or one extra part.

It you've got 10" burners under your HLT and BK are going to have orifices that require higher pressures (somewhere <30 psi) than the 6" burner (<10 psi). The effect of this will be that when you've dialed in your 10" burners, the pressure will be way too high for your 6" burner. To correct this, you've got two choices -

1) install a needle valve between the MLT ball valve (ball valves are basically on/off switches, which you'll need, but they're not good for making adjustments) and the 6" burner orifice. A needle valve will allow you to actually make adjustments

Or

2) slowly and incrementally increase the size of the 10" burner orifices until they operate efficiently at the same pressure as the 6" burner. To do this you'll need to find the orifice size/drill size chart. There are a bunch of HBT threads discussing orifice size, so browse through them and I'm sure you'll find it + other helpful info.
 
Breworx said:
Sure, that's definitely possible. Since i use identical burners for my HLT, MLT, and BK, I only need to adjust the regulator once, and when the flame is dialed in on one burner, it's dialed on all 3 and rarely needs adjustment. In your case, getting all three burners dialed in is going to take one extra step or one extra part.

It you've got 10" burners under your HLT and BK are going to have orifices that require higher pressures (somewhere <30 psi) than the 6" burner (<10 psi). The effect of this will be that when you've dialed in your 10" burners, the pressure will be way too high for your 6" burner. To correct this, you've got two choices -

1) install a needle valve between the MLT ball valve (ball valves are basically on/off switches, which you'll need, but they're not good for making adjustments) and the 6" burner orifice. A needle valve will allow you to actually make adjustments

Or

2) slowly and incrementally increase the size of the 10" burner orifices until they operate efficiently at the same pressure as the 6" burner. To do this you'll need to find the orifice size/drill size chart. There are a bunch of HBT threads discussing orifice size, so browse through them and I'm sure you'll find it + other helpful info.

Great info thanks. Sounds like I could also use the 30 psi regulator and put needle valves on all three burners so I can just open the regulator all the way and then use the needle valves on each burner to adjust?
 
Now that is excellent thinking with the butcher top table with your bench packed up and stowed under! That is just plain hot! Love it...
 
Not my homebrew setup, but I like shiny stuff so I'll post it anyway. This is the 3.5bbl PsychoBrew system for my brewery in Chicago, we'll be open in September. The system is customized from their typical 4 burner system by using larger mash tuns and stainless steel pumps.
1005145_377419612380400_208095397_n.jpg


What is the name of your brewery? I live in chicago I may have to check it out.
 
Smithy said:
Now that is excellent thinking with the butcher top table with your bench packed up and stowed under! That is just plain hot! Love it...

Thanks! Originally my plan was to use the butcher block as a removable top for it (results below) but I got so many complements on it that I decided to turn it into a standalone piece.

image-651833079.jpg



image-1630433461.jpg
 
Here's my rig in all of its hill billy glory. we were brewing at a friends house, hence the reason for the makeshift stand. We were brewing a massive RIS, so i had to use my keggle for the mashtun. I am currrently building a keggle bottom drain mashtun to get rid of the cooler, and a stand for the mashtun and HLT. I will leave the boilkettle as a stand alone unit.

brew rig woods.jpg
 
How do you cool with that?

I have a plate chiller that mounts under the right side of the stand. There are two hoses that get connected in order to divert the wort through the chiller and back into the kettle or fermenter.
 
Spargster... Is that a cauldron (for lack of a better descriptor) I see on the far right of the first pic? What do you use it for?

You build a vent hood. I'm surprised you didn't plumb it for natural gas (or did you?) with the water heater right there.
 
Flykilbosa said:
iPad integration!!! You are my hero!! Was that a kit or did you piece it together? Awesome!

I pieced it all together. Though it is all driven by the bcs. I'll get some more photos posted up.
 
pfgonzo said:
Spargster... Is that a cauldron (for lack of a better descriptor) I see on the far right of the first pic? What do you use it for?

You build a vent hood. I'm surprised you didn't plumb it for natural gas (or did you?) with the water heater right there.

Yes that is a "cauldron" i was going to incorporate into the stand as a tippy/dump type set up...still may at some point down the line. I was anxious to get the system on-line so I skipped that idea so for now. The system is NG and I did tap into the water heater supply line, just didn't have it attached in the pic. Vent hood for exhaust with two CO detectors and a fresh air supply inlet on other side of basement for safety.
 
Bsomogyi-


Do you have any flow issues with the 90 degree turn into the pump? Many people suggest it causes issues. Do you restrict the flow on the outflow? I would prefer your setup.

Thanks! Looks great!!! A+

So I far I have....

my rig.jpg
 
JLo said:
Spargster - What did you make your vent hood out of?

I made the hood out of a pair of fluorescent light fixtures which i found on CL super cheap, just removed the tubes and ballasts. Pop rivet'd them together and cut a hole in the top. Squirrel cage blower pulls about 300cfm vented to the outdoors
 

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