Thank you! that what happens when you put a crazy artist on a projectThat is one of the more remarkable combinations of art and function I have seen in a while - very nicely done!
Thank you! that what happens when you put a crazy artist on a projectThat is one of the more remarkable combinations of art and function I have seen in a while - very nicely done!
easy to see I like steampunk style?That is a thing of steampunk beauty!
Brew stand. 2.0 : in the process of a rebuild.
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Propane/rims to electric/herms
I watched your video, love the simplicity of the mash stirrer! And really curious about your BBQ, smoker stuff...you should join us over hereeasy to see I like steampunk style?It was interesting project to create all those parts. The control panels I draw with Inkscape and then used laser cutter. They are actually made of mdf that I just painted copper & some stains
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Adhesive backed PVN - polyvinyl nitratewhat did you use to insulate your mash tun?
@pinchegil
The are Tejas Smokers CVO250 . they are for high pressure propane I have two for my mash and boil kettle, my mlt is controlled using a honeywell so I have a two stage regulator to drop 35lbs to 11 inches of water because of this I called them and they opened the orifice for me. These are all connected to Bayou Classic BG14s. They are a really nice feature@pinchegil
Can you tell us about the gas line connectors or post a link? I'm particularly curious about the burner end.
"Low Pressure" is 11" WC which is roughly .4 psi - most propane gas grills run that low. But the typical brew burner will come with a 10 psi or greater regulator, so the answer is most likely No...Thanks for the link. I use the BG14s as well. Q: on a normal propane tank am I at low pressure?
the BG14s come with a high pressure orifice which is what you use for a normal propane regulator and tank so you are good to go!! You would only run low pressure if you were connecting it to NG from your house, or if you were adding automation using a furnace valve. In which case you would need to ream out the orifices."Low Pressure" is 11" WC which is roughly .4 psi - most propane gas grills run that low. But the typical brew burner will come with a 10 psi or greater regulator, so the answer is most likely No...
Cheers!
Love the Springsteen reference! More like Brewwww-ceThis has taken a bit. But here it is. I am calling it Brew-ce. <snip>
The are Tejas Smokers CVO250 . they are for high pressure propane I have two for my mash and boil kettle, my mlt is controlled using a honeywell so I have a two stage regulator to drop 35lbs to 11 inches of water because of this I called them and they opened the orifice for me. These are all connected to Bayou Classic BG14s. They are a really nice feature
https://tejassmokers.com/Brass-Fittings-Valves/22#brass9
They replace your orifices
I would have to check, when setting up I shut them, the I turned the regulator full up, then I cracked the needle valve till i could light burner, then I turned an eighth, then messed with the air, then did this again till I found the sweet spot. Since then, I just nudge them either way when i turn it on. Not sure you would have to do this at sea level but at 6400 feet and the type of day you will always have a little nudging. They will stay exactly in place if you do not touch themHow many turns do you have from full closed to full open? Do they fall back a little when you adjust them or do they stay exactly where you put them(if that makes sense)?
There are a lot of photos scattered over many threads of brewing set-ups.I looked all over the web for pics and ideas for a simple sculpture.Maybe it'll help someone to see a bunch in one place.
This was a fairly simple project.
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Cheers![]()
View attachment 570418 This has evolved over the last couple of years. It runs like a champ now.
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It’s actual brewers and vintners hose, only half inch id. Probably should have gone 3/4, but the flow rate is way more than adequate with our little giant pumps. I recall it being really difficult to get onto the barbed fittings. It was $7 per foot from McMaster. Here’s the link: https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/53715K41
The smaller coil is my original herms coil set up from back when I had 2-10 gallon coolers( mash tun , hot liquor tank) . There is a 4500 watt element in that 5 gallon pot and the controller on the left controlled that. The heat loss is about 10 degrees from one end to the other if you were not reheating it back up at the herms coil. I still use it as I like only heating 5 gallons of water to control temp, and my 20 gallon HLT is heating sparge water independently. HLT and BK both have 5500 watt ripple elements. The counter flow chiller takes you from boiling to whatever temp you incoming water is in one pass with Chugger pumps running full blast, in winter I have to slow the flow of incoming water or you will end up with wort in the high 40's or low 50's.holy huge a$$ counterflow chiller batman!
is the smaller coil in the pot under the stand a HERMS/temp control thing? I notice you have a temp probe directly on the output side of it going back into the mashtun (I assume it's a mashtun).. how do you modulate the temperature in that? (is there a coil/heat stick in there I can't see?)
how much heat-loss do you get from recirculating through all that copper?
[[...]I customized the Autosparge in the hopes of avoiding channeling during the recirculation. [...]