Show us your panel

[Dfitz]

I call it Megatron. My double duty 50amp electric chair/beer brewer.

 

[Islandboy85]

My updated panel. 3phase, 400v/16A (I live in Sweden, so the electric system differs from U.S)

3 SSR with quite small heatsinks, but 2 fans makes sure that they stay cool.
Dual outlet, one for HLT and one for the boiler. The on/on switch is used to choose if the PID or the "boil controller" triggers the SSRs.

Indivual Volt/Amp meters (one per phase)

You're one of the few people that turned the enclosure hinge horizontal. I was wondering why more people don't do this. I'm about to ouch holes in my build. I currently will only be running two PIDs, but if I wanted to add another it seems it would be easier since I can leave more space between them.

 

[iijakii]

You're one of the few people that turned the enclosure hinge horizontal. I was wondering why more people don't do this. I'm about to ouch holes in my build. I currently will only be running two PIDs, but if I wanted to add another it seems it would be easier since I can leave more space between them.

Just makes it slightly harder since you have to hold it open anytime you're in there.

 

[Islandboy85]

Just makes it slightly harder since you have to hold it open anytime you're in there.

What about if the hinge was on the bottom?

 

[Islandboy85]

I call it Megatron. My double duty 50amp electric chair/beer brewer.

I'm building a dual purpose controller for an "electric chair" too. [emoji78] What are all the pots on the bottom for? They look like analog voltage regulator controls, but that doesn't make sense since you've got the PIDs. I'm lost, but also impressed. Love your build.

 

[Dfitz]

I'm building a dual purpose controller for an "electric chair" too. [emoji78] What are all the pots on the bottom for? They look like analog voltage regulator controls, but that doesn't make sense since you've got the PIDs. I'm lost, but also impressed. Love your build.

The tags on the temp meters explain somewhat what the alternative system does. PIDs perform based on temp. The pots run the SSRs based on power. It makes sense when it's used as designed. The alternative is really not supposed to be discussed on this forum so....

 

[Islandboy85]

Ah, gotcha.

 

[Beernip]

What about if the hinge was on the bottom?

Just make sure your wiring lengths are good to your front panel so when It swings down it doesn't rip any wires loose.

 

[Islandboy85]

Just make sure your wiring lengths are good to your front panel so when It swings down it doesn't rip any wires loose.

You'd secure the wire bundles on the hinge side no matter how the enclosure is oriented. I'm not understanding what you're saying.

 

[JimboVorlaufski]

My panel is pretty utilitarian. 2 cheapass chinese 10,000 watt SCR's that power 2 15.5 keggles, each with a 5500W camco ultra low watt density element. Powered off a 50 Amp breaker (46 amps with both roaring). Ive since ditched the dig meters and put analog ones on there that read true RMS. But dont really pay attention to them at all anymore. I have markings next to the dial for 3000 and 4000W. Im typcially cooking at 3000, 4000 or full tits depending what Im doing.

With 2 kettles and staggering my brews 1 hour I brew 2 10gal batches in 6.5 hours back to back, sharing a mash tun and brewpot. (second keggle is just used to heat mash and sparge water). Adding a 3rd batch adds 1.5 hours essentially, so its a no brainer for me on brew day to load up on supplies and get busy. Got 6 taplines to keep loaded up (I posted pics of my keezer/bar elsewhere here today).

 

[Islandboy85]

Love the paint job!

 

[Leadpencil]

I am about 95% finished with my panel. Waiting on wire for the temp sensors. I built a brewery in my pump house. I will do a full write up on it after I get it up and running. Hoping to have the first brew in it next weekend.

 

[dlaramie08]

I am about 95% finished with my panel. Waiting on wire for the temp sensors. I built a brewery in my pump house. I will do a full write up on it after I get it up and running. Hoping to have the first brew in it next weekend.

Dang! That's the cleanest interior I think I've seen on here.

 

[superstorm204]

I am about 95% finished with my panel. Waiting on wire for the temp sensors. I built a brewery in my pump house. I will do a full write up on it after I get it up and running. Hoping to have the first brew in it next .
That sticker looks pretty sweet.

 

[Leadpencil]

it was the first one i cut for you. it was screwed up but worked to cover the scratches.

 

[homebrewdude76]

I am about 95% finished with my panel. Waiting on wire for the temp sensors. I built a brewery in my pump house. I will do a full write up on it after I get it up and running. Hoping to have the first brew in it next weekend.

Are you planning on heatsinks for the SSR. I mounted this giant heatsink and it was barely warm after one hour of 2 elements running.

 

[MNBones]

I'll bite.

 

[Gameface]

Still really like the clean look of my panel. Like the illuminated push-button switches.

Several things I'd do differently if I did it again, but it's working like a champ.

 

[Leadpencil]

Are you planning on heatsinks for the SSR. I mounted this giant heatsink and it was barely warm after one hour of 2 elements running.

i wasnt planning on it. the back plate is 1/4 aluminum. i have a fan mounted next to the ssr's to pull the excess heat away.

 

[WI_Wino]

Here's my ghetto fabulous panel. Single 5500 element BIAB system. MyPin PID is used to get up to strike temp w/o me babysitting it. Then small manual adjustments as needed to maintain temp. Spa panel is my main disconnect. The small rotary switch breaks the SSR control voltage so I can use the PID display for wort temps as I'm cooling/hopstanding. Just a a little easier then dialing the manual power up and down via the PID.

Also I found an eBay seller that has lightly used Hubbell 30 amp twist lock connectors for cheap, xIntsirplus. I got 4 males and females for $26 shipped I think. Way cheaper than even brand new ones coming on the slow boat from China.

 

[sasky7777]

Here is my newly wired panel. It took a very long time to get here with kids, moving, new house, new job. It is a 50amp Kal kit with a minor change.

Started out with a combine. This model was used for many years on the family farm. Every summer I would help my Dad get it ready for harvest. Lots of good memories associated with the IH 1482.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1477159442.771127.jpg

Then I got a metal worker friend to turn it into a box. And started cutting holes.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1477159487.077557.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1477159499.425736.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1477159511.063729.jpg

I ended up with kind of a reverse of most panels, with the door on the back. This does make it a bit of a pain to wire, and you need more heavy gauge wire. Need to clean it up yet, but here are the guts. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1477159383.368051.jpg

And the final product. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1477159415.552133.jpg

 

[ch19]

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1477303965.991926.jpg MyPin TD4 controlling a 2.4kW element and pump. Although the TD4 has a manual mode, I wired up a boil bypass switch - it's easier to flick a switch than dive through the PID menu

 

[augiedoggy]

View attachment 374712 MyPin TD4 controlling a 2.4kW element and pump. Although the TD4 has a manual mode, I wired up a boil bypass switch - it's easier to flick a switch than dive through the PID menu

so with the switch its just 100% on? Why not just set the pid to something like 220 degrees from the beginning? it would accomplish the same thing without ever needing manual pwm mode. just curious.. I guess with the switch you could just leave the pid set at your mash temps and never have to adjust it?

 

[ch19]

Exactly that, augiedoggy - the switch allows me to go from mash mode to 100% boil without having to change anything on the PID. With my 2.4kW element at 100%, I get a gentle rolling boil with no need to throttle back, so no need to use manual mode on the PID.

 

[Wolfairious]

Just finished my 50A box and everything tested out great. Only "mistake" I made was following the manual for the Mypin and setting the + and - on the SSR output the way it was shown. Elements wouldn't fire. Tested with multi-meter and notice polarity was switched so reversed the connections and all works. (picture taken before changing from K to PT100 so read-out is 500+)
It has an interlock circuit on the 2 element contractors and it has an EPO on the side.
It has a dual alarm function. 3 way switch can select the alarm for the HLT or Boil or off. Separate speaker on top for louder alarm (installed before I got the flashing buzzer).
The top 2 readouts are my PWM's for my 24v pumps. They work great for me. (24v 8.5A supply inside)
Both SSR's are rated at 80A on a reclaimed heatsink.
Now that everything is working I just have to mount the box and auto tune my TD4 PID's.

 

[augiedoggy]

Just finished my 50A box and everything tested out great. Only "mistake" I made was following the manual for the Mypin and setting the + and - on the SSR output the way it was shown. Elements wouldn't fire. Tested with multi-meter and notice polarity was switched so reversed the connections and all works. (picture taken before changing from K to PT100 so read-out is 500+)
It has an interlock circuit on the 2 element contractors and it has an EPO on the side.
It has a dual alarm function. 3 way switch can select the alarm for the HLT or Boil or off. Separate speaker on top for louder alarm (installed before I got the flashing buzzer).
The top 2 readouts are my PWM's for my 24v pumps. They work great for me. (24v 8.5A supply inside)
Both SSR's are rated at 80A on a reclaimed heatsink.
Now that everything is working I just have to mount the box and auto tune my TD4 PID's.

Love the clean installation.
I really wish I would have taken the time to better organize my wiring like yours... mine looks like a birdnest unfortunately so when making changes or adding things its a bit stressful. its funny because I had a different wiring inconsistency between the label and the directions for my mypin pids if I rememeber right..

 

[Wolfairious]

Love the clean installation.
I really wish I would have taken the time to better organize my wiring like yours... mine looks like a birdnest unfortunately so when making changes or adding things its a bit stressful. its funny because I had a different wiring inconsistency between the label and the directions for my mypin pids if I rememeber right..

I thought it was a little messy myself, lol. Only thing I don't like is I ran out of a certain color wire at one point and used a different color in a different part of the panel for the same thing. I tried to keep them all the same for the different circuits. But I can still figure it out tracing it. I had a lot of stuff or got it donated but here are my $308 costs:
Control Panel
2 - PT-100 Thermocouples $18.68
2 - 25A Element Breakers $37.95
3D Printed Breaker Clips $8.50
1 - 63A Mains Power Contactor $26.00
2 - 3 Pin Male XLS Connector $4.68
2 - Panel Mount XLS PT-100 connectors $5.44
2 - Element Switches $8.40
24v DC power Supply $13.59
2 - TD4 MyPin PID $54.39
20ft Element Power Cord $25.00
50A Power Connector Male $23.90
50A Power Connector Panel female $15.08
Misc Wire $5.00
2 - PWM Speed controller $21.53
Alarm Buzzer/Light $1.99
5 Pair Waterproof DC Pump Connectors $3.99
Red Cable Sleeving $2.49
Blue Cable Sleeving $2.49
2 - 2 Pin Panel & Male Plugs $2.30
2 - 110v Element Panel Lights $1.49
1 - 110v Mains Panel Light $5.95
2 - Element Contactors $19.20

Total $308.04

DONATED STUFF or stuff I already had
Control Box
80A SSR's
Misc Wire
Alarm Speaker
Key Switch
Reclaimed Heat Sink
DIN Rails and DIN Terminals
DIN Relay
6A & 16A Din breakers
50A Range cord and plug.
30A Outlets
EPO Switch
Male 30A Element connectors
Many Terminal connectors
Many Screws
Many Tie Wraps
Triple Terminal Block
50A GFI Spa Panel
3 Way Alarm Switch

Cost for Pot and element Ect (not including ball valve and tee)
2 - 2" Hot Pods and Solderable TC Flanges $121.44
2 - 2" TC Clamps $11.98
2 sets - Element Pigtail Connectors $17.00
20 Gallon Kettle $99.99
2 - 5500W heating Elements $59.98
Keg HLT $25.00
Total $335.39

 

[jeremy2027]

Here is my setup, I dont have any up close shots of the panel on here right now but it's basically a Kal clone setup with keggles. It took about three brews to get the hang of losses and efficiencies but I will never go back to using gas. The fermentation fridge has the capability of controlling two different fermenters using STC 1000 controllers. The freezer side I use for overflow of kegs to condition and store.

 

[wishingiwasfishing]

I bought the Auber BIAB Kit on my K-Rims setup

 

[sam]

About a year ago I was inspired by this thread to upgrade to electric. It's been a long road but I finally finished today and felt it was time to post here.

Thanks to everyone for the inspiration and all the great info in this forum!

.