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Show me your HEAT STICK!

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EO74

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Here's the deal I've been brewing outside in the winter for years and I'm looking to do some indoor brewing in the winter, but I have a couple of questions I couldn't find strait awnsers for. First will a 15a circuit boil 5-7 gallons of wort on its own? Second will jb weld have any reactions with the wort chemically? Third what is the best design? Which leads me to this SHOW ME YOUR HEAT STICK!:smack:
 
231173d1414036323-prototype-previews-hopback-heat-stick-hotrod1.jpg
 
I'm going to be offering them for an introductory price of $49 without the element. The 5500 watt all stainless element will be $39 and the 2000w/120v element will be $33. So, no JB weld, no rusty bases and cheaper than you could build it with off the shelf TC parts. Couple more days on the heatstick hardware... about 9 days I'll have the elements.
 
I'm going to be offering them for an introductory price of $49 without the element. The 5500 watt all stainless element will be $39 and the 2000w/120v element will be $33. So, no JB weld, no rusty bases and cheaper than you could build it with off the shelf TC parts. Couple more days on the heatstick hardware... about 9 days I'll have the elements.

So explain to an idiot how your "hot rod" works.... do I just plug it in and drop it in the wort, or do I need a kettle with TC fittings, or what?
 
As soon as the Hot Rod goes on sale Bobby I am on it!!! $49 is more than fair IMHO. I am getting a different element due to the size of my pot. I'm assuming some simple instructions on how to wire it would come with or would be available on HBT?
 
So explain to an idiot how your "hot rod" works.... do I just plug it in and drop it in the wort, or do I need a kettle with TC fittings, or what?

Install the element in the end cap, run your wire down the drop tube, connect the ground to the ground lug and the hot/hot or hot/neutral to the element terminals and then clamp the cap and main unit together with the gasket in place. Add a plug to the end of the cable.

Drop the unit in your pot and plug it in.

I've also verified that you can put many different types of temp sensing probes down into the vertical tube if you want to run it on a controller.
 
WOW screw building one as soon as there ready seriously let me know I'll take one with the smaller element , looks awsome.....on an un related note that was a good write up on you i read the other day.
 
That looks amazing, Bobby! Of course, not a surprise given your excellent work. So, for using to maintain mash temps, how would you use the kettle lid? I guess one could notch the lid so that the heat stick could sit along the side with the lid on. Or, perhaps a tubing bender could be used to bend the Hot Rod at the right height for the kettle, and then just sit the lid atop the rod. I'm trying to decide between this and the nice TC element kits you have developed.
 
That looks amazing, Bobby! Of course, not a surprise given your excellent work. So, for using to maintain mash temps, how would you use the kettle lid? I guess one could notch the lid so that the heat stick could sit along the side with the lid on. Or, perhaps a tubing bender could be used to bend the Hot Rod at the right height for the kettle, and then just sit the lid atop the rod. I'm trying to decide between this and the nice TC element kits you have developed.

If your going to notch the lid why not just drill a hole and mount the element in the pot?
I thought the only real purpose of these are for people unwilling or unable to modify their pots? It wouldnt be for any cost savings since the enclosure alone costs the same as 2 elements mounted in two pots/kettles. Or am I missing something?
 
I personally am not willing to drill my pot , i just want somthing for winter brewing when its freezing and snowing out side��
 
I personally am not willing to drill my pot , i just want somthing for winter brewing when its freezing and snowing out side��
Could you not use Bobby M's just like a typical heat stick and not have to drill any holes? They are just TC fittings. That would be my plan and his price is fantastic! I have about that into my JBweld/PVC/Toilet parts pile of crap as it is. Most was in the HD extension cord I used and would reuse for his. I am keeping my eyes peeled on this for a 120V version.
 
Could you not use Bobby M's just like a typical heat stick and not have to drill any holes? They are just TC fittings. That would be my plan and his price is fantastic! I have about that into my JBweld/PVC/Toilet parts pile of crap as it is. Most was in the HD extension cord I used and would reuse for his. I am keeping my eyes peeled on this for a 120V version.

Yes thats what i would do , i was planning on building my own and using everyone elses ideas but bobbys looks so good I'll probably just buy his.
 
Here's the deal I've been brewing outside in the winter for years and I'm looking to do some indoor brewing in the winter, but I have a couple of questions I couldn't find strait awnsers for. First will a 15a circuit boil 5-7 gallons of wort on its own? Second will jb weld have any reactions with the wort chemically? Third what is the best design? Which leads me to this SHOW ME YOUR HEAT STICK!:smack:

My opinion, if you're limited to a 15 amp circuit I'd just buy a commercially available immersion heater on Amazon or Ebay. You can get them really, really cheap (~$10). Here's a thread where several of these heaters are discussed.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/i-love-waking-up-hot-strike-water-easy-1-2-3-a-381737/


I don't think a single 1500 watt heater would keep a rolling boil going for a 5 gallon batch, but there are options. One, use your stove top and supplement with an immersion heater. Two, buy a couple of these things and connect them to two different circuits.

I've found that I'm happy with just letting my kettle straddle two burners on my stove top when I'm ramping up to the boil. Once boiling I turn one burner off and just run one to keep things going.
 
That's what I do TexasWine. I just use my stick for supplemental power to save propane. I do not brew indoors anymore however.
 
I looked at those immersion heaters but I would be cutting it too close height wise with that one on Amazon. By water is usually only about 6.5 to 7.5 inches deep in the pot. I'm chomping at the bit for Bobby's design to come to market.
 
Those look great, Bobby! How long is the drop tube? Are you offering any hanger hardware? My current heatsticks made with drain pipe are ugly, but the hook on the top is handy for hanging them on the kettles or the edge of the cooler mash tuns.
 
If the drop tube is left straight, the overall height is 27". If I put a 90 degree bend, it shortens to 24". I do have a clamp solution that needs a 1/4" hole at the top sidewall of the pot to work, but I'm still not 100% satisfied with it. It's better than just dropping it into the pot, but I think it can be better.
 
Bobby I couldn't get on your site Monday or Tuesday but I did get on this morning and when I did it said The hot Rod is out of stock? Did you sell out that fast if so WOW :mug:
 

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