Should I boil longer if my OG wasn't big enough?

[linusstick]

Starting to piece together different pieces of this process now that I've done both BIAB and batch sparging. My OG came in at 1.073 instead of 1.088. That's another issue for another time. Question is should I have kept boiling until i got up to that OG even though I hit my volume? I am guessing with that high of an OG either way this beer should be ok but I'm just curious from a process standpoint if I would just boil longer and raise the OG I would get an outcome more like the recipe called for

 

[Grod1]

yes boil longer. but the problem then becomes the ibus and hop addition times.
if you consistently keep falling short on your OG then overclock your grain bill a lil bit.
or you can keep some dme around and add as needed.

 

[seatazzz]

It does take some time to get your efficiency dialed in. I recently changed my process to using a bag in my mash tun and my efficiency tanked. No matter what, you're going to make beer, so I say roll with what you've got and look into ways of improving on the next batch.

 

[user 70770]

Starting to piece together different pieces of this process now that I've done both BIAB and batch sparging. My OG came in at 1.073 instead of 1.088. That's another issue for another time. Question is should I have kept boiling until i got up to that OG even though I hit my volume? I am guessing with that high of an OG either way this beer should be ok but I'm just curious from a process standpoint if I would just boil longer and raise the OG I would get an outcome more like the recipe called for

I see a couple of points here. First off, 1.088 is pretty high gravity and most homebrewers will tell you that efficiency goes down the higher your gravity simply because you'll usually sparge with a similar volume of water than a standard gravity beer but you have way more grain to rinse. So it's totally normal to have your efficiency tank a bit for high gravity beers.

Second, was 1.088 expected gravity for 75% efficiency? If so, 75% can be tough to hit for many homebrewers. You need a pretty well designed mash tun and good sparging technique to hit that efficiency. I've been homebrewing for 8 years and I rarely get more than 70%. That 5% difference will definitely account for a few gravity points especially when you get up into the 1.080s.

So try reformulating your recipes assuming your efficiency is 70%. And for high gravity beers, you can even assume it's going to go down to 65% or even 60% and see if you hit your targets better.

 

[JordanKnudson]

Continuing to boil would have gotten you to your target gravity, yes. But the way it would have done that is through boil-off, concentrating the sugars into a smaller amount of liquid. So, your total wort volume into the fermentor would have necessarily ended up smaller (and obviously, topping up with water would dilute it, thus nullifying the intended effect of your extended boil). Not the end of the world, but considering the circumstances, I'd take the wort you actually did make over a lower-volume, altered-hop-times wort. It probably would have been good, too, but what you ended up with will be fine.

In the future, I'd just plan for a lower efficiency and adjust your grist accordingly (which will probably amount to something like an extra pound of grain, so no big deal).

 

[IslandLizard]

If your OG is low at the end of the sparge, you can do 4 things:

1) Let it be, at lower gravity, and enjoy it for what it is. You may want to adjust your hops down a bit to keep a good balance.

2) Boil the collected runnings until you hit your predicted pre-boil gravity, then add bittering hops and start your timing. You'll be having somewhat less beer in the end.

3) Boil the regular schedule, then add enough (light) DME or LME at the end to boost your gravity to the intended post boil OG. Again, as in 1), you may need to adjust your hop additions a little as utilization is a little higher at lower gravity boils.

4) If your beer is one where kettle caramelization is an important part of the process, add enough DME before the boil to reach pre-boil gravity. Then proceed normally.

Most lower efficiency issues have to do with milling too coarsely. So look there first, tighten your mill. As said before you're bound to lose quite a few gravity points in high gravity mashes. Review your sparging method, lautering efficiency, mash tun dead space, etc. Any losses there multiply with increased gravity.

 

[mlafnitzegger]

If your OG is low at the end of the sparge, you can do 4 things:

1) Let it be, at lower gravity, and enjoy it for what it is. You may want to adjust your hops down a bit to keep a good balance.

2) Boil the collected runnings until you hit your predicted pre-boil gravity, then add bittering hops and start your timing. You'll be having somewhat less beer in the end.

3) Boil the regular schedule, then add enough (light) DME or LME at the end to boost your gravity to the intended post boil OG. Again, as in 1), you may need to adjust your hop additions a little as utilization is a little higher at lower gravity boils.

4) If your beer is one where kettle caramelization is an important part of the process, add enough DME before the boil to reach pre-boil gravity. Then proceed normally.

Most lower efficiency issues have to do with milling too coarsely. So look there first, tighten your mill. As said before you're bound to lose quite a few gravity points in high gravity mashes. Review your sparging method, lautering efficiency, mash tun dead space, etc. Any losses there multiply with increased gravity.

I agree with everything here but would add that if you sparge well with proper rests and mixing\recirculating your efficiency should also go up. I batch sparge 2xs per brew. Each time I mix very well without aerating and let sit at the correct sparge temp (around 168) for at least 5mins (I shoot for 10mins).

 

[urg8rb8]

It does take some time to get your efficiency dialed in. I recently changed my process to using a bag in my mash tun and my efficiency tanked. No matter what, you're going to make beer, so I say roll with what you've got and look into ways of improving on the next batch.

Why did it tank? This is the process I use and I get like 80% or higher efficiency. Do you mill super fine???

 

[wilserbrewer]

What I would suggest is to take a pre boil gravity and volume, with this information you can calculate your post boil #'s.

If you extend the boil, the critical hop timing is the late hops at the end of the boil.

Doesn't matter much if the initial bitter hops are boiled longer, but do time your finish hops to flame out if you extend the boil.