Selecting and Caring for pH Meters

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Selecting, using, and caring for pH meters seem like complicated concepts. This article will answer all the questions you were too afraid to ask, did not know whom to ask, or did not know needed to be asked.

Selecting a pH Meter


There are three styles of pH meters: pen or pocket style, portable handheld, and bench top. The important specifications include precision, calibration, and temperature correction, stated as ATC for automatic temperature correction.


Precision: For brewing, it is good to have a precision of ±0.01 pH units or at the least ±0.02 pH units. At this level you will be able to detect even yeast autolysis. Remember, when you read an article that mentions pH units in tenths (e.g., mash should be between 5.3-5.7), you want one additional digit to better determine how close you are to that level. If you don’t have that precision, your mash could be at pH 5.78 and not know how close you are to 5.70 or 5.79. The pH scale is logarithmic, which means each pH gradation is ten-fold higher, so pH 6.0 is ten times as much as pH 5.0.
pH-buffer-solutions.jpg

Calibration: Calibration is tuning the pH meter to a known pH buffer value. There are two types of calibration available: automatic and manual. In automatic calibration, the pH meter will automatically recognize the value of the pH buffer solution and calibrate itself to that value. In manual
There are two types of calibration available: automatic and manual. In automatic calibration, the pH meter will automatically recognize the value of the pH buffer solution and calibrate itself to that value. In manual calibration it is necessary to tell the pH meter what value the pH electrode is immersed. The pH meter will get close to the value and then, with minor adjustments, the user must manually correct it. Manual calibration offers accuracy while automatic calibration offers simplicity. Generally, automatic calibration is the most common in the price range most homebrewers seek. You may consider purchasing a pH meter with automatic calibration that has a manual adjustment mode. Some of these can be purchased at a moderate price.


Temperature correction: The measurement of pH is temperature dependent; its value will change depending on the temperature of the test sample. It is important that pH measurements are performed at the same temperature as the calibration solution. Calibration buffer solutions are almost always made to be read at room temperature (generally 25°C or 77°F). If you are close to this range, you are fine. What this means is that deviations of the test sample, either hotter or colder, from the calibration will be imprecise. Test samples must be stabilized as close to room temperature as possible. This is where temperature correction fits. If the test sample is a little warmer or cooler than the pH buffer solutions, the actual pH measurement can be compensated by either manual temperature or automatic temperature compensation. In manual compensation, the user must enter the temperature of the sample so that the pH meter can correct the value of the pH. In automatic compensation, the pH meter will read the temperature of the sample and do it by itself. There are two important points to note here:
1) The actual change in solution pH varies due to the chemicals in it (i.e., sugar, starch, protein, salts/ions, etc.). It is difficult to know how much the wort pH shifts with each degree rise or fall in temperature from the calibration temperature.
2) It is not a good idea to read extreme temperatures (too hot or too cold), such as of a mash or beer lagering near freezing. Doing so will hasten the end-life of the pH probe.
hanna-pH-meter.jpg

One feature you may want to consider is to get a pH meter that has a replaceable probe. While it may be more expensive, it is less expensive than purchasing a replacement pH meter. There are other specifications that you may see as you shop for pH meters:
• Probe connection (usually for benchtop models; BNC is the most common connector),
• mV readout (milliVolt; determines the slope between pH calibration points),
• Total dissolved solids (TDS),
• Oxidation-reduction potential (ORP),
• Refillable pH electrodes ,
• pH probe with a single or double junction.
Most conventional pen or pocket pH meters are non-refillable, single junction (lower maintenance and cost). The other specifications listed here will not be discussed as they are features that are outside the scope of this article. While they add functionality, they also add complexity and raise the price.



Using a pH Meter - Calibration


Before using a pH meter, it must be calibrated at least once a week, if used routinely. If it is used infrequently, it must be calibrated before the pH measurement session begins. Regardless of the type of calibration available in the pH meter (manual or automatic), three types of calibrations may be performed: single, two point or three point. Three point calibrations are less common and are available in higher end models used for analytical work. Single point calibration is suitable if the solution being measured is near neutral (between pH 5.5-8.5) For brewing, a two-point calibration is highly recommended. Calibration buffers are available at different pH. The pH buffers you will commonly see are: 4.01, 6.86, 7.01, and 10.01. Choose the two calibration buffers that most closely bracket the solution being measured. It is best if the pH buffers are one to three pH units apart. For brewing, it would be 4.01 and either 6.86 or 7.01.
General calibration instructions are provided, but it is best to read the pH meter instruction manual. The buffer or sample level must be above the pH electrode reference junction when the electrode is immersed in the solution. This means the pH probe should be immersed in 1-2 inches of sample.
Allow the calibration buffers to settle at room temperature. Enter the calibration mode of the pH meter. Rinse the pH electrode with deionized or distilled water (tap water may be fine). Do not allow the rinse to contaminate any of the buffers. Immerse the pH electrode in the first calibration buffer. The pH meter will either prompt you or you may have to tell it in which buffer it is immersed. Gently stir the pH electrode until it reads the proper pH. When the reading stabilizes, either prompt the pH meter to recognize and save that value (manual calibration) or allow it to callibrate by itself (automatic calibration).
Rinse the pH probe with deionized or distilled water (tap water may be fine). Either gently shake the water off the pH probe or blot dry with a clean tissue or paper towel. Do not touch the actual electrode or wipe the pH electrode. You only need to get most of the adhering water off of it.
Calibrate the pH meter to the next buffer solution. Immerse the pH probe into the second calibration buffer, stir gently, and when the reading stabilizes, either prompt the pH meter to recognize and save that value, or it may calibrate automatically. Then, exit the calibration mode. If the meter auto calibrates, it may do this automatically. Rinse the pH probe with deionized or distilled water (tap water may be fine), gently shake off excess water or blot (never wipe), and place it either into the pH electrode storage solution or into the sample to be measured. After measuring the sample, rinse well, and place the electrode into the storage solution.
As an optional check, to test the calibration, you could enter pH reading mode (not calibration mode), and place the pH probe in each of the pH buffers used for calibration. Make sure to rinse the pH probe between buffers.

Using a pH Meter – Sample Measurement


pH-meter-alkaline-water.jpg

Because pH measurements are temperature dependent, make sure the solution being measured is as close to room temperature as possible. Remember, slight deviations from room temperature are fine, but extremes should be avoided. After calibration, enter pH reading mode. Rinse the pH electrode with deionized or distilled water (tap water may be fine), shake or blot excess water, immerse the pH probe into the sample, and stir gently. Wait for the reading to stabilize, and record the pH. Remove the pH probe from the sample, rinse it with deionized or distilled water (tap water may be fine), shake or blot excess water, and place the pH probe into the pH storage solution. As stated previously, it is not necessary to recalibrate the pH meter between samples read on the same day or week unless issues are noted and is covered in the next section.

Caring for pH Meters


These are universal and general guidelines, so check the instruction manual for specifics:
• Never store the pH meter in distilled or deionized water; Always store the pH meter in pH
storage solution.
• Never allow the pH probe to be stored dry.
• It is preferred to not store the pH probe for long term in pH Calibration Buffer – pH Storage Solution is best.
• To clean a pH probe, rinse in distilled or deionized water (tap water may be fine). Shake off any excess water, or blot and return the pH meter to its storage solution.
• Do not wipe the pH probe with any type of cloth or tissue; static charge can develop and give faulty readings, or the probe can become damaged.
• Do not touch the pH probe with your fingers. Oils will contaminate the pH probe, give faulty readings, and can shorten the probe’s life.
• Bring all solutions as close to room temperature as possible. Extreme temperatures will shorten the life of the probe.
• With proper care, pH probes will generally last about two years.
• Clean pH probes with pH probe cleaning solution.
• Pay attention to how long it takes your pH meter to get close to the pH with gentle stirring before it stabilizes (usually about 1 minute). Dirty pH probes, or if probes nearing end of life, will not stabilize as quickly. If the time is longer or if the reading does not stabilize, clean the probe with probe cleaning solution, store the probe overnight in storage solution, and recalibrate. Consult the probe owner’s manual for detailed information.
• Remember, a pH meter is a sensitive scientific instrument and should always be treated with care.
Hopefully, most of your questions on pH meters have been answered. The methods discussed here allow you to better follow your mash and fermentation and determine factors that contribute to the health of your yeast.
pH-meter-alkaline-water.jpg
 
Any recommendations for a good pH meter for homebrewing? I'm thinking about getting one.
 
The supplier for my Thermoworks 8689 told me its perfectly fine to store the meter in distilled water.
 
A very quick and easy search shows that storing in distilled water will shorten probe life.
https://www.google.com/search?q=can+i+store+ph+meter+in+distilled+water&rlz=1C1GCEA_enUS754US754&oq=can+i+store+ph+meter+in+distilled+water&aqs=chrome..69i57.8063j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
 
at the end of the first post. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=302256
 
Is it recommended to stir the pH meter in the liquid until the reading stabilizes or just stir it for a few seconds and then let it sit until the reading stabilizes?
 
According to Hanna tech support storing your probe in RO or distilled water is not recommended. The coating on the pH bulb requires certain properties found in storage solution that extends its life. As a fall back they said storing the bulb in 4.0 calibration solution is the next best thing.
Extending the life of the pH bulb in a Hanna meter, and ensuring its continued accuracy, requires the following after each use.
1) Rinse of the probe with clean water
2) Soak the probe in cleaning solution
3) Store the probe in storage solution when not in use
4) Calibrate the pH meter monthly
I've bought my Hanna HI 98121 Combo Digital pH and ORP meter for under $150.00 a little over 3years ago. After accidentally allowing the bulb in my meter to dry out, and spending $60 for a replacement bulb, I decided to follow Hanna's storage recommendation. Since then my meter has remained responsive and accurate.
 
It takes about 20 minutes for a solution's pH to stabilize. Waiting at least that long allows you to take more accurate readings. Even with that said I do keep my meter moving around in the solution when taking readings.
 
Who is the supplier? You may want to check with Thermoworks directly as they will know best
 
I can't edit my response for some reason. I just talked to a rep at Thermoworks. They said store wet either storage solution or water. If that is what the manufacturer is recommending, you can go with it. If anything happens because you stored it in water, you can go back to them and say that is what they said to do. It is probably even in the manual. With that said, I'd still store it in storage solution.
 
So you wait 20 minutes before taking a reading of the sample and then stir until the reading stabilizes?
 
Most of my long adult life, I have worked in biochem and microbiology labs. We always used refillable pH probes. I had never heard of non-refillable probes until a couple of years ago when I started homebrewing. The refillable pH probes just need to be dumped out once in awhile, and the internal solution replaced with saturated KCl. If you keep the probes reasonably clean, they seem to last decades. Why are brewers are brewers sold on the non-refillable gel-filled probes?
 
"The pH scale is logarithmic, which means each pH gradation is ten-fold higher, so pH 6.0 is ten times as much as pH 5.0."
I'm guessing more of a typo than a lack of knowledge but a pH of 7.0 is neutral so a pH of 6.0 is ten times LESS acidic than a pH of 5.0. A lower pH is more acidic, a higher pH is more alkaline.
 
Probably because the non-refillable ones are what are sold to homebrewers. I've never heard of a refillable one.
 
Yeah, it was the Thermoworks tech that told me the distilled water thing. I'm gonna stick with it now and see where it goes. Not a biggie if I need to purchase a new probe (only $29) and I can take the opportunity to get some of that storage solution while I'm at it. I can say the probe is holding up well for the time being though!
 
my 2 cents would be to get an all in one pen model vs the ones with probes that attach via a cable such as the pictured Hanna. The cables become a huge PITA and tend to tip any glassware over that may contain your sample
 
I had a pen style and switched to MW-102. Using both, I don't find one to be easier than the other. For replacing the probe, MW-102 is 100 times easier.
 
pH is a measure of the activity of hydrogen ions in a solution. At pH 7 the activity of H+ is 1E-7 = 10^-7. At pH 6 it is 1E-6 = 10^-6 which is 10 times greater than 1E-7.
 
The reason for stirring is to allow the sample to rinse any was water away from the sense bulb and junction. So a quick stir followed by a short rest and then perhaps another quick stir are all that are necessary. Bulb and junction are now in contact with pure sample. Let it rest until the reading stabilizes.
Stabilization is assymptotic so with a relatively new, clean electrode you should be within 0.02 of the true pH but the reading may creep for a few minutes more. For mash pH readings a couple of minutes are sufficient. Note that we are talking about the meter's drift only here. Mash pH itself drifts for up to a half hour. Thus you will want to take several mash pH readings 10 minutes or so apart but the reading themselves only require 2 minutes probe immersion. Yes, you will see drift but that is the drift of the mash itself. Not that of the electrode. Of course the electrode should have been checked to see that it is stable. Do the stability test at https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=302256
The one place where you may want to wait 5 - 10 minutes before accepting a reading is where calibrating for precision work. Then you want to let the electrode get as close to its assumptotic voltage as practicable. It is important that the meter you buy allows YOU to decide when to accept a calibration reading. Stay away from those that make this determination themselves.
 
" Calibration buffer solutions are almost always made to be read at room temperature (generally 25°C or 77°F). " Not so. Calibration buffers are meant to be read at any temperature at which you read them. Evidence for this is that the actual pH of the buffer at various temperatures is often listed in a table on the buffer's label. Your pH meter has this data stored in its internal memory and uses it when it does a calibration and again when it does a measurement. It is, thus, technically not necessary that the buffers be at room temperature nor that the samples be at the same temperature as the buffers nor even that the buffers be at the same temperature of each other. This is what ATC is for. To compensate for the electrode's response to temperature. This is totally independent of the wort's pH change with temperature.
I said 'technically' above because ATC algorithms depend on the isoelectric pH of the electrode (the pH at which the electrode's response does not depend on temperature) being 7.0. If it isn't the ATC algorithm will introduce small errors. These are rather insensitive to actual values of pHi so that a spec of 6 < pHi < 8 is deemed sufficient and achieved by most manufacturers to the point that I have never seen a meter that allows the operator to set pHi if he knows his electrodes actual pHi (which is not too hard to determine). But I have owned electrodes with pHi outside this range.
If you know you have an electrode with unusually high or low pHi then it IS important that buffers and samples all be at the same temperature as under these conditions the ATC &#039;correction&#039; is 0 irrespective of actual pHi value. And it is always important to avoid rapid change in temperature. IOW you can measure the pH of lagering beer without detriment to probe life if you slowly lower its temperature to that of the beer and after the measurement gradually raise it back to storage temperature.
 
I use PH probes every day for work. Have been for 10 years. Store them in your ph 4.01 calibration solution (separate container like a falcon tube in a tray) and always keep them upright. You'll never have an issue if you follow those two rules!
 
Check out companies that manufacture scientific equipment like Hanna or Milwaukee and others. Use the specs outlined and you should be able to get one for <$75. You get what you pay for and for how well you maintain it.
 
Very strange to hear from a sales rep that distilled water is fine. Storage solution only costs $15. By the time you realize your probe is not accurate you will have used it with incorrect readings for some time.
 
Yes - bad wording, sorry. Each whole unit is a ten-fold change.
 
Basically it's cost and some minor points like remembering to open the port (filling hole) when using and remembering to close it when storing.
 
You'll have an 'issue' if you follow rule 2 with a gel filled electrode. Water will migrate into the electrode and dilute the electrolyte. I did this once and found the gel chamber full of water (well a water solution of buffer). The reference cell is usually filled with saturated potassium chloride. The chemical potential of water is much lower in this solution than it is in a typical buffer solution. Water will follow the potential gradient into the electrode. In a double junction design things may be different and in some it may be OK to store in buffer. If so, the manufacturer will tell you that it is OK. So scratch rule 2 above and replace it with "Store the electrode in whatever storage medium the manufacturer recommends." This will usually be a 3 M KCl solution.
 
The affirmation:
• Never store the pH meter in distilled or deionized water; Always store the pH meter in pH
storage solution.
• Never allow the pH probe to be stored dry.


Is not always true.

I use a pH meter brand XS Instruments model PH5.
The instructions dictate dry long-term storage.
This is actually the reason why I bought it.

Always check the instruction manual.
 

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