Scored free keg set up, but...

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coolharry

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It's been sitting unused for about 3-4 years. It's a full set up (three taps, two ball locks) minus tubing and keg QDs. there's even some 4 year old stout in one keg and root beer in the other. I just want a bit of advice since I know almost nothing about kegging.
I know I'm gonna have to do a ton of cleaning. But what would be the best way to clean it all? I plan on breaking everything down as far as I can and soak in pbw, replacing all the gaskets and poppets and what not if I need too.
Anything else I should worry about? I know I might need to swap out the co2 tank since its so old. I've seen that the root beer smell can be a ***** to get out so I think I might just keep a keg of root beer around for SWMBO and family, unless anyone knows how to get the smell out...
Ill post some pics later.
 
Nice score, if the stout is still under pressure i would give it a taste after you clean up the taps, lines ect.
Defiantly replace all rubber parts, but do taste the stout it could be amazing.
 
ChefRex said:
Nice score, if the stout is still under pressure i would give it a taste after you clean up the taps, lines ect.
Defiantly replace all rubber parts, but do taste the stout it could be amazing.

The guys shook it pretty good when I picked it up and called it a "science experiment" cause it sat so long (he assumed mold, but it sat closed up so I think it should be good yet), but when I got it home I pulled up the release valve there was barely any pressure and it really didn't smell like anything so ill be interested to see how it looks when I open it up
 
Some thoughts:
  • Think about upgrading beer line to Accuflex Bev-Seal, I haven't but will soon.
  • keg lube- some like it some don't (I use it) for all keg mating surfaces, use sparingly
  • Co2 doesn't go bad, only the tank certification expires ($$$)
  • Just swap tanks when empty, don't bother to refill tank unless it is a pretty aluminum tank
  • Oxyclean overnight soaks on everything.
  • On a rootbeer keg I replaced all rubber except poppets. Still had faint rootbeer odor empty but no rootbeer taste full of beer. Maybe replacing poppets would solve this.

And what I didn't know about originally:
The top of the Quick Disconnects unscrew to disassemble. They get crud in them just like poppets do. Disassemble and clean as often as you do poppets (every keg is best)
 
I believe the tank is empty, but yeah it's the certification Im concerned with so hopefully there's a place near me that will exchange instead of just fill. I have no tubing at all so I do want to get something good right away. Is the tubing your talking about for the liquid side then? And where would I find it? My lhbs just has the regular beverage tubing and red gas tubing.
 
Just swap the tank. They'll charge you for the recertification but they'll go ahead and swap it. The tanks almost never fail hydro testing unless they're obviously damaged.

The recertification on my last tank was about 20 bucks.
 
http://www.farmhousebrewingsupply.com/accuflex-bev-seal-ultra-3-16-50/

The stuff seems like a pain to work with but it won't hold odors like vinyl tubing. You may be best just to get the stuff from the LHBS first since it is pretty cheap, and if you start upgrading move to that stuff.

BUT, what I did do is use all 3/16" beer line for beer and gas line and use flare fittings whenever possible- makes it easy to take apart, and you have a one size fits all approach. I saw no downside to this, even with back to back pours no issues.
 
Congrats. I got a free kegging setup from my uncle... got a 1/2 keg of a cherry lager he brewed 16 years ago, currently carbing up for a taste...:tank:

I also got a tank needing hydro'ed. Took it to the company whose name was stamped on the tank hoping to exchange... turned out it was a stolen tank! My uncle got it, "for a steal," from a friend at a distributor a looong time ago. They kept their tank and offered me a discount price on a new one.

So... you may want to check your tank for ownership issues....
 
http://www.farmhousebrewingsupply.com/accuflex-bev-seal-ultra-3-16-50/

The stuff seems like a pain to work with but it won't hold odors like vinyl tubing. You may be best just to get the stuff from the LHBS first since it is pretty cheap, and if you start upgrading move to that stuff.

BUT, what I did do is use all 3/16" beer line for beer and gas line and use flare fittings whenever possible- makes it easy to take apart, and you have a one size fits all approach. I saw no downside to this, even with back to back pours no issues.

Thanks for the link and pointers. Yeah I think ill start out with the regular and eventually move up. Which I guess is my plan with most of it, cut my teeth with this stuff and then once I get a feel for kegging, start swapping out for better equipment. I already know I want to upgrade the faucets to the stainless ones. Its funny because I was already kind of eyeing pieces to get a keg set up going since christmas is coming up and then this just fell into my lap.
 
I would also recommend changing out the pressure gauge on the regulator as a preventive step. I say this because I just recently picked up a used kegerator system and after all kinds of issues with foam and trouble pouring it was suggested that my gauges could be wrong. The old gauge was way off, what I thought was 13psi turned out to really be 28psi! Needless to say I will now always switch to new gauges when picking up a used system. It will be a few bucks well spent.
 
I would also recommend changing out the pressure gauge on the regulator as a preventive step. I say this because I just recently picked up a used kegerator system and after all kinds of issues with foam and trouble pouring it was suggested that my gauges could be wrong. The old gauge was way off, what I thought was 13psi turned out to really be 28psi! Needless to say I will now always switch to new gauges when picking up a used system. It will be a few bucks well spent.

Oh yeah, thank you. I never even considered that, one of them does look pretty old (the one that reads the serving pressure vs the tank level one). Is there a way to test them and see if they're accurate?
 
Good advice? If these are ball-lock corny kegs, get one of these:
http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-11-16-x-7-8-in-wrench-ratcheting-box/p-00942165000P
That way, you can easily disassemble the gas in and liquid out posts for cleaning. Pick up some Oxy-clean versatile free for soaking. Pick up the o-rings at mcmaster.com Item number 9452k172 - Dip Tube, 9452k23 - Post, 9452k218 - Lid. They sell the tube and post o-rings in 100 packs for under $2 a pack and the lid ones in 10 packs for just under $13 i think.
 
coolharry said:
Oh yeah, thank you. I never even considered that, one of them does look pretty old (the one that reads the serving pressure vs the tank level one). Is there a way to test them and see if they're accurate?

I don't know of any good way the test or calibrate at home other then to compare against other gauges and look for consistency. If you have a gas/welding supply store nearby they might be able to test it for you.
 
BeerGrylls said:
Good advice? If these are ball-lock corny kegs, get one of these:
http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-11-16-x-7-8-in-wrench-ratcheting-box/p-00942165000P
That way, you can easily disassemble the gas in and liquid out posts for cleaning. Pick up some Oxy-clean versatile free for soaking. Pick up the o-rings at mcmaster.com Item number 9452k172 - Dip Tube, 9452k23 - Post, 9452k218 - Lid. They sell the tube and post o-rings in 100 packs for under $2 a pack and the lid ones in 10 packs for just under $13 i think.

Thanks man, i think ive got a few bucks left on a sears gift card to snag that wrench. I just ordered all three of the o-rings you mentioned and the ones for the QD's listed in the part numbers thread. Ill be real interested to see how long it takes me to go through 100 of them, I feel like I never will. How often do people normally change the o-rings?
 
Spargster said:
I don't know of any good way the test or calibrate at home other then to compare against other gauges and look for consistency. If you have a gas/welding supply store nearby they might be able to test it for you.

There is an Airgas real close to me that I planned on checking with about the tank so I guess I'll bring the gauges in too and see what they say.
 
So I finally got around to pulling the faucets apart and cleaning them. They were pretty gummed up but everything came clean. They are chrome plated brass though and there's a good deal of brass showing around the spout. Is this anything to worry about?
 
Naa, brass can have small amounts of lead, but not enough to worry about. If you are really are concerned, pickle it with vinegar.
 
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