MDB
Well-Known Member
I'm brewing a summer IPA OG 1052 fg 1013 kit comes with safeale us-05. Says to sprinkle into cooled wort, any pointers for alternative methods that may work better? I'm fermenting at anmbient room temp of 68. Thanks
safale us-05?
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amandabab
Well-Known Member
for most normal gravity beers I've found that I'm just going through the motions making starters with s-04 and us-05.
Flasks, stirring plates, soft music, mood lighting and little tiny yeast porn magazines seem to give the same results as just dumping the dry packet into the fermentor and walking away.
Flasks, stirring plates, soft music, mood lighting and little tiny yeast porn magazines seem to give the same results as just dumping the dry packet into the fermentor and walking away.
hamiltont
Well-Known Member
Sprinkle on top or rehydrate in 95-100F preboiled water for 15 minutes before pitching. It's that simple really. That's the beauty of dry yeast. Cheers!!!
You don't need a starter with dry yeast but it is recommended to rehydrate it prior to pitching.
Take a cup of warm water in a sanitized vessel, add yeast and gently mix, allow to sit while you brew (preferably covered) and it will be ready to pitch by the time the wort has cooled
Take a cup of warm water in a sanitized vessel, add yeast and gently mix, allow to sit while you brew (preferably covered) and it will be ready to pitch by the time the wort has cooled
You can rehydrate, but just sprinkling works fine. The argument for or against has been raging since dry yeast was invented, I suspect. The directions on the pack say sprinkle, sprinkle away.
william_shakes_beer
Well-Known Member
I always rehydrated when I used dry yeast. Now I have a stir plate, tiny disco ball, and tiny yeast porn magazines.
Your gravity isn't crazy high so sprinkling works...but I too prefer to rehydrate in some sterilized/cooled water first.
If you go to www.fermentis.com you can read the instructions for hydrating to make a yeast 'cream' to pitch, which is basically what I do.
If you go to www.fermentis.com you can read the instructions for hydrating to make a yeast 'cream' to pitch, which is basically what I do.
Re hydrate, and that is it. You CAN just sprinkle, but a rehydrate first is better.
If you did make a starter with US05 (or S04) you would actually be being counter productive. The yeasts come with the optimal energy stores in them already. If you want to up your cell count (or need to), but another batch of yeast for another $3.50, but dont make a starter.
You do that with liquid yeast because they are old, tired, dying, and expensive.
If you did make a starter with US05 (or S04) you would actually be being counter productive. The yeasts come with the optimal energy stores in them already. If you want to up your cell count (or need to), but another batch of yeast for another $3.50, but dont make a starter.
You do that with liquid yeast because they are old, tired, dying, and expensive.
hamiltont
Well-Known Member
As others have mentioned. Do not do a starter with a dry packet of US-05. The only time I ever use a starter with US-05 is with a thick slurry that's over a month old. Cheers!!!
I've been using mostly liquid yeasts, but I won't have time to make a starter before my next brew so it's dry yeast time...
Do you recommend dropping just one pack in, or using two? My beers never seem to hit their target FG, but I'm just now starting to control ferm temp around 65 degrees. I'm going to use this yeast for EdWort's Pale Ale this weekend, and a red IPA next weekend (target OG is 1.065).
Do you recommend dropping just one pack in, or using two? My beers never seem to hit their target FG, but I'm just now starting to control ferm temp around 65 degrees. I'm going to use this yeast for EdWort's Pale Ale this weekend, and a red IPA next weekend (target OG is 1.065).
hamiltont
Well-Known Member
One packet of US-05 is enough for a 1.065 beer. Are you using extract? Extract usually finishes a bit higher FG. Cheers!!!
Like others have said, you definitely should not make starter. The yeast pack contains nutrients intended to last throughout the fermentation -- if you make a starter, the yeast will consume the nutrients faster than intended and you risk a stall. You can add more nutrients while making the starter but you kind of defeat the purpose of engineered dry yeast. If you choose to rehydrate, pitch 5-10 minutes after re-hydration, no longer. One pack should be ~200B cells, you can always pitch two packs if you think that isn't enough.
I've found that if you sprinkle the dry yeast evenly on the surface of the wort in a bucket, then let it set with the lid on for 15 min, it rehydrates itself...then stir hard with your stiring paddle to oxygenate the yeast and suspend it well...active fermentation starts within 8 hours!
bob1006
Well-Known Member
You don't even have to stir it after 15 minutes, give it a good shake if you want. Or, don't, either way it will work. Dump the packet in and cap it.
MDB
Well-Known Member
Thanks all. I like simple. Sprinkle it is.
Yeah, I've always been doing extract and they've never really ended up like I want them to. This weekend is actually my first all-grain batch, so we'll see if I have better luck!
zeg
Well-Known Member
I'm a fan of doing the rehydration, both because the manufacturers almost unversally recommend it and because I find it easier to sprinkle carefully into the Pyrex measuring cup I use for rehydration and then pour that into the carboy I use for primary than it would be to sprinkle into the carboy... with a bucket, it'd be different, but I like to see my yeast do their thing.
hvrtaxi
Member
I know very little but I rehydrate to ensure those little friends are still kicking around. Probably outdated these days unless you are buying from a dusty old brew shop
I'm a little cautious simply because I lost a batch due to weak (liquid) yeast and I cried when I poured it put on the lawn. Yet, dry yeast has worked... dry and rehydrated for me. Meaning it made beer.
I stopped getting micro porn to my yeast , even though are hard core flocculaters, because it attracted a bacteria crowd that could easily lead to infection. I only let them watch the 700 club now.
I'm a little cautious simply because I lost a batch due to weak (liquid) yeast and I cried when I poured it put on the lawn. Yet, dry yeast has worked... dry and rehydrated for me. Meaning it made beer.
I stopped getting micro porn to my yeast , even though are hard core flocculaters, because it attracted a bacteria crowd that could easily lead to infection. I only let them watch the 700 club now.
ChshreCat
Well-Known Member
I used to sprinkle and never had any problems with it. I rehydrate now because it's a very simple, easy extra step to take to give me a little better odds of good beer.
Making a starter with a dry yeast like this is a waste because the main reason to make a starter of anything is to get more yeast cells. If you need more cells of a dry yeast, another pack of yeast is cheaper than the DME you'd need to buy to make a starter.
Making a starter with a dry yeast like this is a waste because the main reason to make a starter of anything is to get more yeast cells. If you need more cells of a dry yeast, another pack of yeast is cheaper than the DME you'd need to buy to make a starter.
Done both ways. Just sprinkle on top. It works just fine. We make our Dave's IPA with this yeast and it works very well. We have the room at 67 degrees and pitch at the the same temp.
In fact we did one batch at the same time in two fermenters. One rehydrate and one sprinkle. Absolutely no difference.
In fact we did one batch at the same time in two fermenters. One rehydrate and one sprinkle. Absolutely no difference.
BuddyWeiser
Well-Known Member
The yeast can heat up the brew during fermentation. You may want to try putting a wet t-shirt over the fermenter, and set the fermenter in a dish of water. This can help keep the temp down which can help prevent strong yeast flavors (like banana
).I keep my room temp @ 68 and still have to use the method above + ice cubes to keep my temp down where I want it.
I make two 1/3 gallon starters for my 10 gallon batches. I even do this with dry yeast. Why do I do it? I think I get better beer since I have higher yeast cell counts when I pitch.
I also do a mini BIAB of about a gallon to make my two starters. It has worked so far.
I also do a mini BIAB of about a gallon to make my two starters. It has worked so far.
ChshreCat
Well-Known Member
That's a lot of work and expense when you can just pitch two packs of yeast to get the same cell count.
Actually it's not too much work since it's such a small quantity and I really like doing it. I basically start my strike water, mill my small bit of grain to get a good OG for the starter.
Next I mash for an hour in a bag and then pull the grain and bring it to a boil for 20 minutes. Chill it in an ice bath - add it to my 1/2 gallon jugs, shake them and add the yeast.
It's a beautiful thing in the end. A little bit of therapy after a 10 hour day at the office, and a guaranteed fermentation for the big batch.
Next I mash for an hour in a bag and then pull the grain and bring it to a boil for 20 minutes. Chill it in an ice bath - add it to my 1/2 gallon jugs, shake them and add the yeast.
It's a beautiful thing in the end. A little bit of therapy after a 10 hour day at the office, and a guaranteed fermentation for the big batch.
Actually it's not too much work since it's such a small quantity and I really like doing it. I basically start my strike water, mill my small bit of grain to get a good OG for the starter.
Next I mash for an hour in a bag and then pull the grain and bring it to a boil for 20 minutes. Chill it in an ice bath - add it to my 1/2 gallon jugs, shake them and add the yeast.
It's a beautiful thing in the end. A little bit of therapy after a 10 hour day at the office, and a guaranteed fermentation for the big batch.
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As others have stated you shouldn't make a starter with dry yeast. When you do make starters for liquid yeast you would be better off using tinfoil loosely on top of your flask or something like that to get oxygen into the wort. An airlock will keep it out.
Yeah, with US05 the yeasts are healthy, and they come with the proper energy stores in them. Just in a state of suspended animation. When you rehydrate them, they are at their peak for fermenting, if you make a starter with them they are less ready to go. Also with the cost of DME and yeast nutrient, you can buy another pack or two of yeast to get you at the roper cell count you need rather than waste the money on a starter.
Liquid yeasts are awake in the vile or smack pack, and as time goes on less and less of what you are buying is viable yeast. The yeast begin to stress, and some even die. You need to make a starter to get liquid yest back to healthy and to a good cell count.
Liquid yeasts are awake in the vile or smack pack, and as time goes on less and less of what you are buying is viable yeast. The yeast begin to stress, and some even die. You need to make a starter to get liquid yest back to healthy and to a good cell count.
If I trusted that nothing would get into my starters I would totally do that. Once I have a dedicated brew room that will happen. Until then on goes the protection of the airlocks.
Even though I have the airlocks on, I always get fairly quick starting and vigorous fermentation. I'm looking forward to the day I build myself a stirplate and a cabinet for the starters to sit in.ban:
zeg
Well-Known Member
