Robobrew/Brewzilla Discussion

[GoodTruble]

My brew day this past weekend went pretty smoothly.

But then I had an odd issue during clean-up. When I went to rinse and clean out the brewzilla, the pump would not start. I could hear it running but no liquid was getting pushed through.

It worked just fine during the brewing, and so I was starting to think through what could have happened in the interim. But then when the water level inside the brewzilla raised enough to touch the end of the recirculation tube, the water started pumping through as normal.

I'm guessing the extra bit of suction on the end of tube overcame whatever the problem was. Or maybe there simply needs to be a minimal level of water to provide enough downward pressure.

I have definitely used the the pump/recirc tube previously while cleaning without the water level reaching the bottom end of the recirc tube, and did not have this problem. So I'm still wondering what that initial problem was, but hopefully it is now resolved.

 

[Henbrew]

My brew day this past weekend went pretty smoothly.

But then I had an odd issue during clean-up. When I went to rinse and clean out the brewzilla, the pump would not start. I could hear it running but no liquid was getting pushed through.

It worked just fine during the brewing, and so I was starting to think through what could have happened in the interim. But then when the water level inside the brewzilla raised enough to touch the end of the recirculation tube, the water started pumping through as normal.

I'm guessing the extra bit of suction on the end of tube overcame whatever the problem was. Or maybe there simply needs to be a minimal level of water to provide enough downward pressure.

I have definitely used the the pump/recirc tube previously while cleaning without the water level reaching the bottom end of the recirc tube, and did not have this problem. So I'm still wondering what that initial problem was, but hopefully it is now resolved.

Hopefully it was just a simple situation of being airlocked. The pumps are a bit of a hassle to remove for cleaning/inspection but overall very doable.

 

[DuncB]

Maybe the liquid column height is marginal for the pump.
As you say worked in past, so remove collar and use original recirculating arm if practical.
Try blocking end of recirc pump tube with finger and that can resolve airlock as well.

 

[Grond]

Total noob question here...

I'm going to be using my BrewZilla 65l for the first time and want to brew my favorite beer...and don't want to mess it up. Using Brewfather to convert my recipe from my old setup and volume to my new setup and volume, it's calling for 8.37 gallons of mash water, 2.02 gallons of sparge, with 9.4 gallons mash volume. Is the Brewzilla capable of these quantities? converting 65l to gallons gives me a little over 17 gallons...but is that true capacity?

I know that these are really dumb questions...but my batch volume goal is 7 gallons into the fermenter and I want to be certain.

 

[DuncB]

I've got a guten 70 and the other week boiled around 50 litres for a double batch, coped fine with that and could easily have got another 7 or 8 litres.
With the old robobrew 35 I did boil it very watchfully with 30 litres in it.

I regularly do 25 litre batches to fermenter with it no problems at all. It will be a breeze even if you were planning a 1.100 batch of that size.

 

[GoodTruble]

The two things to watch out for in larger volume brewing in the brewzilla is making sure the grains don't rise high enough to reach the holes in the side of the malt pipe and then just not boiling over during the boil. In my experience with the 35L, boiling over is not a problem with the lid off, and I can get 7 gallons of wort out of the 35L pretty comfortably. -It's the grain bill that's a bit trickier, but when in doubt, I just do a reiterated (or two-step) mash.

 

[cactusgarrett]

17 gallons...but is that true capacity?

17 gallons is the true capacity to boil. The capacity to mash is lower due to the presence of the malt pipe and its handle holes, as well as the false bottom.

7 gallons into the fermenter shouldn't even come close to pushing the limits of the 65L unit, unless your OG is super high and you need a ton of grain. I'm brewing this weekend and the plan is to put 11gal into the fermenter. With 19lb grain and a strike volume of 9.5gal (and the resulting liquor:grist ratio being 1.95 qt/lb, 1.40 qt/lb functionally (above the false bottom)), that's about 42L (11 gal) of mash space.

I've figured out 58L (15.3 gal) mash space is the max in this unit (with the malt pipe, overflow return removed), regardless of liquor:grist ratio. You could go higher if you remove the malt pipe and brew BIAB. You might already know this, but use the "Can I Mash It" feature here to determine the volume necessary to mash. Green Bay Rackers--Mash Calculators

 

[GoodTruble]

Maybe everyone else already knew this, but the rubber cap that fits over the center metal tube inside the malt pipe is the same rubber cap that kegland sells as covers for taps. -My brewzilla and kegerator taps now have interchangeable caps in a pinch.

- I also discovered this weekend that the rubber cap also fits over the end of the recirc tube, in case you need that to contain dripping. (I used it to cover the tube while I left the wort to no-chill).

 

[DuncB]

Good spot re the rubber cap. I use the fine mesh filter that was inside a bodum teapot. Lets the liquid through but keeps the grains back. I rarely max out my unit though.

 

[Teufelhunde]

I’ve been using the hop spider pretty religiously. I’m worried that it’s screen is so tight that I’m leaving flavor and aroma behind.

I've got a 35L on the way and have been thoroughly reading through this thread. I have been extract brewing for a couple of years and have settled in using a 300 micron hop spider. I am thinking about ordering a larger spider to use in my BZ when it arrives.

I see a couple of conflicting things about hop spiders, so I thought I might ask what the consensus is.

1) Some folks don't like them due to perceived or real under-utilization of the hops.
2) Some other folks say that after 15-20 minutes all the oils are pulled out of the hops and they are basically inert at that point.

What seems to be the consensus on which school of thought is the closet to correct?

If #1, it would seem that directing the output of the pump into the spider would help with the problem, but if #2 is correct then it would be moot.

Anyway, I look forward to any input on this, and this is a very informative thread (I still have about 20 pages to go)

Lon

 

[GoodTruble]

I think hop spiders just need to be large enough that pellets can fully dissolve. The more hops you use, the more space you will need.

I don't agree that nothing further happens after 15-20 minutes.

I like using the hop tubes with lids. I clip the chain to the side of the brewzilla (usually over the handle). That allows me to fully submerge at any any volume and swirl around the tube pretty freely (I sometimes use it to stir the wort). I can also easily pull it when need and add more.

 

[GoodTruble]

Also, I have soemtimes just used a BIAB over the whole Brewzilla to throw in hops with no screen and then just pull the bag after the boil.

 

[Teufelhunde]

Also, I have soemtimes just used a BIAB over the whole Brewzilla to throw in hops with no screen and then just pull the bag after the boil.

I just happen to have some 5 gallon paint strainer bags with elastic around the opening.........hmmmmmm.........200 microns if I remember correctly....

 

[Teufelhunde]

Kai answered that question in the interview he did about the 4.0...you won't be able to upgrade...sad and silly mistake IMO.

Not from a manufacturer's point of view. You want all the new bells and whistles, open your wallet......

 

[Teufelhunde]

thanks! Good info. Yeast is S-04. Temp is set for 68F but seems to be always a few degrees less. It would appear that I’ll mostly be heating my Ferm-chamber. I have a standup freezer on an inkbird controller. It’s located in a concrete closet under my front porch…ambient temp is 50 in the winter and 60ish in the summer.

After 3-5 days, I usually raise the temperature on my fermentation chamber by 2degrees (F) per day for 3-4 days, then it is removed to a room temperature spot (around) 74 degrees F year round to rest until it is 3-4 weeks old then bottled (dry hopped first, of course, if needed).

 

[Teufelhunde]

May I ask if you were using the fine mesh loose screen in the bottom?

Lon

 

[Teufelhunde]

I was thinking of trying something similar with a BIAB - what size did you use? No worries about melting on the heating element?

Shouldn't be, I would think. It is held away from the elements by the false bottom.

YMMV

 

[Teufelhunde]

Finally made it through all 29 pages of this thread.....YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY

Lots of good information here.....now waiting the the BZ to arrive......

 

[Sonofastu]

I am by no means an authority. I’ve only brewed two batches thus far. During recirculating I ran my hose into the hop spider. I’m not sure why hahaha, but that’s what I’ve done. Both batches turned out better than expectations. The hop spider filters out quite a bit of sediment.

 

[cactusgarrett]

1) Some folks don't like them due to perceived or real under-utilization of the hops.

I tried it before changing over to the BZ and quickly abandoned it. I never did any perception comparisons, but seeing the kettle have a nice rolling boil, and the inside of the spider barely a simmer with no movement was very disconcerting to me. I would routinely (throughout the boil) pick it up to empty/refill it, but that's just too much hassle. I settled on hop bags and have never looked back.

If #1, it would seem that directing the output of the pump into the spider would help with the problem,

The problem is (and I tried this) is that the spider mesh get's clogged enough, that recircing thru it just fills it up too quickly, with it eventually needing to be dumped back into the kettle because it doesn't drain fast enough.

 

[rootAndBoom]

The problem is (and I tried this) is that the spider mesh get's clogged enough, that recircing thru it just fills it up too quickly, with it eventually needing to be dumped back into the kettle because it doesn't drain fast enough.

Stirring helps me with the raised level inside the hop spider.

 

[GoodTruble]

Finally made it through all 29 pages of this thread.....YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY

Lots of good information here.....now waiting the the BZ to arrive......

Congrats - You have at least BS in HBT- Brewzilla Sciences.

Maybe DuncB will issue you a certificate.

 

[GoodTruble]

Kegland came out with new "heavy duty false bottoms" for digiboil and brewzillas.



I guess their intent is to allow people to use multiple units to make a three-vessel set-up. But I may get one just to replace the flimsier original and allow for biab sometimes instead of using the malt pipe.

https://www.kegland.com.au/35l-heavy-duty-false-bottom-for-digiboil-and-brewzilla.html

 

[Teufelhunde]

Completed my first All grain brew ever, done on my Brewzilla 35L. Write up and impressions here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/first-all-grain-brew-is-in-the-fermenter-long.701410/

 

[theredviper]

A supplier in Canada has the v4 for $689, meanwhile the 3.1.1 is on sale for $350. I really wanted to wait for the 4, but at this price difference, what am I missing out on?

 

[Teufelhunde]

A supplier in Canada has the v4 for $689, meanwhile the 3.1.1 is on sale for $350. I really wanted to wait for the 4, but at this price difference, what am I missing out on?

The V4 has a lot of smart features with connect with an app that Kegland offers that would offer real time data logging if I'm not mistaken.

The controller is at the top, rather than the bottom, which would be nice, at least for us old farts. I don't have an issue getting down to the level where my controller is, but getting back up......not so much......

The power cord disconnects for cleaning.

It has a conical bottom with the pump/spigot at the bottom of the cone, so you get everything out of the kettle. This includes all of the sludge at the bottom. I'm not sure that is such a good feature.

I'm sure there is more. Here is a link for Keglands video on the v4.....

 

[GoodTruble]

A supplier in Canada has the v4 for $689, meanwhile the 3.1.1 is on sale for $350. I really wanted to wait for the 4, but at this price difference, what am I missing out on?

Yeah, that's a tough sell. I already have the 3.1.1, and will be using some of the new parts to upgrade.

When available, I think I will get the new larger malt pipe and heavy duty false bottom to set it on.

It also doesn't seem like it would be a difficult mod to wire the new control screen through a plate and into the old 3.1.1.

 

[theredviper]

Thanks guys, I have seen the videos. I'd hate to be paying double for the convenience of the controller location. The wifi stuff is cool but also hard to justify. Do you know if they have addressed any shortcomings on part that wear out quickly, or anything of that nature?

 

[GoodTruble]

Brewzilla 4 has a larger malt pipe. I think that's the biggest thing not mentioned above. I "think" you will be able to retrofit the old 3.1.1 to also use the new, larger volume malt pipe, but but entirely sure.

There are some other interesting upgrades (like lower density heating (less scorching), multiple temp probes, digital control of pump speed, and eventually, a self-cleaning spray attachment). But that price increase is notable. I think I would still go 3.1.1 at those prices.

 

[DuncB]

Having fitted a smartPID controller to my guten I am really pleased with the temp control. No overshoots can wlk away and letmitnget on mashing, links and alarms via brewfather, controllable by WiFi.
I believe the brewzilla 4 has a pid and this level of control a bonus but the cheaper unit can retrofit SmartPID and no hole in centre of your bottom!!!