Robobrew/Brewzilla Discussion

[Sammy86]

with the double step 92% sounds about right, how much loss to the fermenter dropped BH down to 85%? i dump the whole kettle into the fermenter? just wondering? (and it was a fun read! and no i'm going to call you 'ted'...lol)

Lost half gallon to kettle loss and chilling...just updated the equipment profile to hopefully remedy this!

 

[bracconiere]

Lost half gallon to kettle loss and chilling...just updated the equipment profile to hopefully remedy this!

i'm so cheap when it comes to brewing, i'd probably do a double brew in a bag and squeeze every last drop out of the hop bag too!

(and hook some sorta thing to the pump that sucked from the bottom of the kettle, and use a shoe horn to tip it at an angle! )

 

[Sammy86]

i'm so cheap when it comes to brewing, i'd probably do a double brew in a bag and squeeze every last drop out of the hop bag too!

(and hook some sorta thing to the pump that sucked from the bottom of the kettle, and use a shoe horn to tip it at an angle! )

Dude, i squeezed and tipped the whole bloody thing...it was the 8 ounces of flamout hops that got me!

 

[bracconiere]

Dude, i squeezed and tipped the whole bloody thing...it was the 8 ounces of flamout hops that got me!

well at least you're trying!

 

[Maalea]

Awesome job with the false bottom. I may have to revisit large grain bill batches.

 

[Sammy86]

Awesome job with the false bottom. I may have to revisit large grain bill batches.

Thank you! I can't even begin to tell you how easy cleanup was and how much easier the brew day went...was so smooth and the efficiency boost was an added bonus!

 

[GoodTruble]

@Sammy86 - Can you post a picture of the combo false bottom? And did you set the BIAB directly on it, or was pulley holding the weight?

 

[Sammy86]

@Sammy86 - Can you post a picture of the combo false bottom? And did you set the BIAB directly on it, or was pulley holding the weight?

I set the bag directly on top...and let it rest, didn't use the pulley to hold any weight. I did my standard 2 qts/lb mash and didn't even wait to start recirculating just flipped the switched and walked away! Which in hindsight i probably should have waited a few minutes but again no problems!

 

[GoodTruble]

Nice. Thank you for the photos. I may give it a try.

 

[Sammy86]

Nice. Thank you for the photos. I may give it a try.

No problem! Like I said it worked great and no bending issues...not bad for an ol' middle school history teacher.

 

[cactusgarrett]

Like I said it worked great

I've toyed with the idea of ditching the malt pipe for a bag, but I can't reconcile how the bag is better and I don't have means for a pulley system to easily accommodate a bag. People mention cleaning, but I think cleaning the malt pipe is a breeze. Could you lay out your thoughts more as to why the bag is better than the pipe?

 

[Sammy86]

I've toyed with the idea of ditching the malt pipe for a bag, but I can't reconcile how the bag is better and I don't have means for a pulley system to easily accommodate a bag. People mention cleaning, but I think cleaning the malt pipe is a breeze. Could you lay out your thoughts more as to why the bag is better than the pipe?

Absolutely! First, I really don’t like the false bottom on the malt pipe. I don’t think the perforations are made in a way to really produce good flow through the grain bed. I also don’t like how it limits the space width wise. When using a bag I have more room for the grain bed to get set and have better flow extracting more sugars from the grain.

Second, I can crush finer with the bag and not need rice hulls anymore. I used 50% wheat and 3% rye on the recent brew and had no issues with gumming or any stuck sparge. As I said in my previous post, I dropped the bag in with grain essentially underletting the mash, gave it a good mix and started recirculating immediately.

Third, while I agree cleaning the malt pipe is easy, for the bag I literally dumped the spent grain in a garbage bag, hosed it down and let it dry. It was ready to be put away before the wort got to a boil. I didn’t have to wait for the boil to be complete and drained out before refilling the Brewzilla with water and PBW.

Lastly, lifting the bag even without the pulley was not an issue, especially with the Brew Bag handles. I also didn’t have to worry about mistakenly touching a hot malt pipe which was also nice since my almost 6 year old has taken an interest in brewing with me.

All in all, I would highly recommend doing what I did and switching to a Brew Bag, even if you do use it with the malt pipe. I’ve seen numerous people on the internet using the bags in AIOs and having good results.

 

[cactusgarrett]

lifting the bag even without the pulley was not an issue

Don't you have to let it hang for a bit to drain the wort? (squeezing/not squeezing aside) You make compelling arguments, and I'd give it a shot but my lack of ability to rig a pulley system (ceiling joists in an unfinished basement) is keeping me from pulling the trigger. One big positive of the malt pipe (to me) is the feet and suspension process.

 

[Sammy86]

Don't you have to let it hang for a bit to drain the wort? (squeezing/not squeezing aside) You make compelling arguments, and I'd give it a shot but my lack of ability to rig a pulley system (ceiling joists in an unfinished basement) is keeping me from pulling the trigger. One big positive of the malt pipe (to me) is the feet and suspension process.

If the pulley is holding you back, use the bag in the malt pipe...lots of Grainfather folks are doing it that way and I've seen Robobrew 35L users, Mash and Boil users, etc.

 

[cactusgarrett]

If the pulley is holding you back, use the bag in the malt pipe...lots of Grainfather folks are doing it that way and I've seen Robobrew 35L users, Mash and Boil users, etc.

How is that different than just the malt pipe, then? I mean, you could still grind finer, but it's still be limited in flow and not seem to provide any benefits.

 

[Wayne1]

I have ceiling joists in an unfinished basement. I was able to find a space where the joists were close enough to put a section of 2x4 between them and screw an eyelet into the 2x4. I use a pulley from Harbor Freight designed to hoist game up for field dressing. It has not trouble lifting a malt pipe.

I am 68yrs old and enjoy using the Brewzilla 65L. I have no problem with using the hoist to lift the mash pipe or lower it after draining. I easily empty the mash pipe with a hand held grain scoop into a 5 gallon bucket. I can then pull the false bottom and rinse and wash that in my utility sink. Next ,I hand scrub the mash pipe in the sink. All very easy and done while the wort is coming to a boil.

 

[cactusgarrett]

I have ceiling joists in an unfinished basement. I was able to find a space where the joists were close enough to put a section of 2x4 between them and screw an eyelet into the 2x4. I use a pulley from Harbor Freight designed to hoist game up for field dressing. It has not trouble lifting a malt pipe.

I considered this at first, but after looking into it I shied away with the idea that those joists are meant to support downward force to their top, not support weight from below. I worried about compromising their integrity with significant weight in a vector they're not designed for. Additionally, my joists are the newfangled skinny "I" format ones, further minimizing area to drill into.

 

[deadwolfbones]

I've done about 80 batches on my Robobrew 3 (35L) with a BIAB bag (no malt pipe). I do full-volume mashing, as well. No complaints. Super easy and very little to clean up. Haven't been using a false bottom, either, but I did just recently pick one up and will try it next time.

 

[Sammy86]

How is that different than just the malt pipe, then? I mean, you could still grind finer, but it's still be limited in flow and not seem to provide any benefits.

You can crush the grain finer, meaning less grain and more sugar extraction.

Edit: Also, no grain in the pump, no stuck sparges and definitely no rice hulls.

 

[Teufelhunde]

I considered this at first, but after looking into it I shied away with the idea that those joists are meant to support downward force to their top, not support weight from below. I worried about compromising their integrity with significant weight in a vector they're not designed for. Additionally, my joists are the newfangled skinny "I" format ones, further minimizing area to drill into.

Either way, it is downward force, and if the weight of that bag is going to be an issue, I would seriously be worried about those joists supporting the floor above them. JMHO

Lon

 

[GoodTruble]

I've done just BIAB/no malt pipe (which warped the bottom screen a bit), BIAB inside the malt pipe, and BIAB outside the malt pipe.

I think I liked BIAB outside the malt pipe best. But I am going to try Sammy's approach above (at least once).

 

[Maalea]

One more reason for the BIAB is you can use a larger grain bill

 

[GoodTruble]

Morebeer just added the Brewzilla Gen 4.

35L is $599
65L is $799

https://www.morebeer.com/category/products.html

Ah, just saw these are "pre-order".

Looks like Williams Brewing also has them listed (estimated in stock 8/31).

https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Sea...ession=IsFeatured DESC, OrderBy ASC, Name ASC
Williams also lists the 3.1.1 as "discontinued" - so might want to stock up on those spare parts as the go on sale over the next year.

 

[Sammy86]

Morebeer just added the Brewzilla Gen 4.

35L is $599
65L is $799

https://www.morebeer.com/category/products.html

Ah, just saw these are "pre-order".

Pre orders galore! I'm sticking with my 3.11 mainly because I'm a poor dad of three children and I'm afraid of what Mrs. Sammy would do if that thing showed up at the doorstep.

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

I put the sight glass on the ball valve hole. with the pump, i don't need the ball valve.

 

[DuncB]

I put the sight glass on the ball valve hole. with the pump, i don't need the ball valve.

Agreed tap a waste of time, mine is rigged up with whirlpool.

 

[ryanj]

Not sure this is the best thread to tack these questions onto, but I pre-ordered a 35L Gen 4 and had a few logistics questions. I'm an experienced brewer coming from a HERMS. I sold my rig to simplify my brewday.

1. I'm planning to batch sparge with my 35L. Any specific recommendations on mash thickness? I always opt for the more "wet" option of 1.75qt/lb.
2. What is everyone using to sparge? I want to keep my setup SIMPLE. The reason I sold my HERMS was because I was tired of extra hoses and kettles and cleaning. But seriously, after you pull the malt pipe and allow it to drip dry, are most people just dumping hot water onto the grains to rinse them and reach pre-boil volume? Any suggestions on how to make this a little easier than lifting a pot of near boiling water over head?
3. I plan to brew in my laundry room. It has a typical consumer-grade exhaust fan on the ceiling. Is that going to be sufficient to deal with boil off steam? I really don't want to add a full vent hood if I can avoid it. I've looked into steam condensers and as much as I'd love to build one, that would go against my goal of simplifying my equipment and reducing moving pieces. Any simple recommendations here?

 

[DuncB]

Not sure this is the best thread to tack these questions onto, but I pre-ordered a 35L Gen 4 and had a few logistics questions. I'm an experienced brewer coming from a HERMS. I sold my rig to simplify my brewday.

1. I'm planning to batch sparge with my 35L. Any specific recommendations on mash thickness? I always opt for the more "wet" option of 1.75qt/lb.
2. What is everyone using to sparge? I want to keep my setup SIMPLE. The reason I sold my HERMS was because I was tired of extra hoses and kettles and cleaning. But seriously, after you pull the malt pipe and allow it to drip dry, are most people just dumping hot water onto the grains to rinse them and reach pre-boil volume? Any suggestions on how to make this a little easier than lifting a pot of near boiling water over head?
3. I plan to brew in my laundry room. It has a typical consumer-grade exhaust fan on the ceiling. Is that going to be sufficient to deal with boil off steam? I really don't want to add a full vent hood if I can avoid it. I've looked into steam condensers and as much as I'd love to build one, that would go against my goal of simplifying my equipment and reducing moving pieces. Any simple recommendations here?

Wetter definitely better, good fine crush helps as you recognise, you'll need to dial that in.
I'm using a bigger unit 70 litre but for a 25 litre to fermenter I'm using 3litres per kg. I'm losing 0.65 litre per kg in absorption.
My unit stands on the floor so via a pipe from the water heater and sprinkle to sparge.
As you've ordered a gen 4 I believe the controls are higher than earlier models so no need to bend to floor to read the controls and adjust. So stand it on the floor.
I brew in my laundry and have an extractor in the wall, this could not cope with the steam production. Having the door to outside didn't help much either.

I built a condenser not too complex really, completely removed the liquid on walls ceiling floor from condensation of open boiling. Other advantages less power to boil, less boil off loss as well.

Bigger extractor fans are noisy, condensation occurs in them and they drip. Also if your kettle on floor you need a low extractor. Have a look at the boil kettle condenser thread.

Others will have different opinions about these issues.

 

[ryanj]

Wetter definitely better, good fine crush helps as you recognise, you'll need to dial that in.
I'm using a bigger unit 70 litre but for a 25 litre to fermenter I'm using 3litres per kg. I'm losing 0.65 litre per kg in absorption.
My unit stands on the floor so via a pipe from the water heater and sprinkle to sparge.
As you've ordered a gen 4 I believe the controls are higher than earlier models so no need to bend to floor to read the controls and adjust. So stand it on the floor.
I brew in my laundry and have an extractor in the wall, this could not cope with the steam production. Having the door to outside didn't help much either.

I built a condenser not too complex really, completely removed the liquid on walls ceiling floor from condensation of open boiling. Other advantages less power to boil, less boil off loss as well.

Bigger extractor fans are noisy, condensation occurs in them and they drip. Also if your kettle on floor you need a low extractor. Have a look at the boil kettle condenser thread.

Others will have different opinions about these issues.

Eh, maybe you're right on the condenser. It's not too complicated and far cheaper than trying to add a hood vent, ducting, motor, and cutting hole in the side of my house.

How are you supplying the water to the mister? Are you using a pump or just tapping into a faucet? I plan to brew in my laundry room as well and was going to add a TEE fitting to the cold water supply so I can use it for the immersion chiller, but could also use it for the condenser.

 

[Sammy86]

I'm planning to batch sparge with my 35L. Any specific recommendations on mash thickness? I always opt for the more "wet" option of 1.75qt/lb.

Everyone is different but I have the most success at 2.0 qts/pound. I believe a bunch of people use 1.75 qts/pound as well and have success.

What is everyone using to sparge? I want to keep my setup SIMPLE. The reason I sold my HERMS was because I was tired of extra hoses and kettles and cleaning. But seriously, after you pull the malt pipe and allow it to drip dry, are most people just dumping hot water onto the grains to rinse them and reach pre-boil volume? Any suggestions on how to make this a little easier than lifting a pot of near boiling water over head?

I used to run cold filtered water from the hose very low pressure, moved to a digiboil with pitcher and now im digiboil with pump over grains. Anyway you decide will be fine as long as you're getting to your preboil volume.

I plan to brew in my laundry room. It has a typical consumer-grade exhaust fan on the ceiling. Is that going to be sufficient to deal with boil off steam? I really don't want to add a full vent hood if I can avoid it. I've looked into steam condensers and as much as I'd love to build one, that would go against my goal of simplifying my equipment and reducing moving pieces. Any simple recommendations here?

I have a 65 L so can't comment with experience but from what I've seen on YT from the guys who have had it the boil isn't too vigorous on the 35L...anything like the exhaust fan will help I think.

Hope this helps and welcome to our little corner of the forum!