RO system recommendations?

[Bobby_M]

I thought they all did. I get how they are used on a well normally. What I said in a roundabout way is that I thought it probably isn't well related because there was no specific text indicating it was necessary for an RO system on a well (I was ruling that out.) It was the actual dying of thirst can I get a glass of water rate I hadn't reduced the problem to! I was also thinking that these size systems were for just drinking water. Besides work, I've run into other kitchens with the drinking water faucet on the side. Those may or may not be RO then I guess. Maybe we have a pressure tank though, I will check next opportunity and see.

You can combine a small pressure tank for drinking water with a float system for brewing water. I have two smaller pressure tanks under my sink banked together that feeds the drinking water faucet above. I also have a line split off that goes to a hard inline shutoff valve and then the float.

RO OUTPUT -> TEE --> Check Valve on each -->

output 1 goes into a tee, one side to the faucet and the other side to the pressure tanks (also coupled with a tee). Not to overcomplicate too much but I also have a line tee'd off that goes to my fridge icemaker/dispenser and that water comes out of the pressure tanks.

output 2 goes to the shutoff valve then a longer hose over to a float that I hang on my brew kettle.

This arrangement is not that complicated and it's inexpensive. I can get about 4 gallons of drinking water out of the faucet all at once if I wanted to

 

[Cogswell]

A basic RO system is little more than a standard water filter setup (whatever is needed to clean up your local water) with an RO membrane stuck on the end.

If you have fairly good city water, a standard filter system can be as simple as a sediment filter plus a high quality carbon block filter. The sediement filter protects the carbon block filter from getting blocked with particles in the water. The carbon block filter improves taste, reduced odor, and eliminates chloramine. Stick an RO filter on the end and you have a basic RO system.

I like these carbon block filters from MatriKX aka KX Technologies. KX is my favorite filter manufacturer in general. You don't need to be as picky about the sediment filter but I like the ceramic type.

Fresh Water Systems is my favorite place for DIY water treatment stuff. They sell all the bits and pieces needed to DIY your own system at a good price.

 

[Deadalus]

You can combine a small pressure tank for drinking water with a float system for brewing water. I have two smaller pressure tanks under my sink banked together that feeds the drinking water faucet above. I also have a line split off that goes to a hard inline shutoff valve and then the float.

RO OUTPUT -> TEE --> Check Valve on each -->

output 1 goes into a tee, one side to the faucet and the other side to the pressure tanks (also coupled with a tee). Not to overcomplicate too much but I also have a line tee'd off that goes to my fridge icemaker/dispenser and that water comes out of the pressure tanks.

output 2 goes to the shutoff valve then a longer hose over to a float that I hang on my brew kettle.

This arrangement is not that complicated and it's inexpensive. I can get about 4 gallons of drinking water out of the faucet all at once if I wanted to

Thanks. Probably makes nice ice!

What has me wondering though is that pressure tanks are used on well systems. Maybe a post filter after the tank is routine. but nobody wants their water to taste like a garden hose. Getting off tastes from the pressure tank is a bit indicative of a potential quality control problem and may therefore be a specific manufacturer issue. I get what you said about surface area as a possible reason as well. There is also a diaphragm style pressure tank. When those are used and for what size tanks, I don't know. Some of the difference in tank size is the height, with the diameter not changing much. There would be less of a surface area change, as opposed to a full bladder. I appreciate you pointing it out in any case, it would be something I would carefully read the reviews for. The small tanks are inexpensive, the bigger ones over $100 and even $200. I am leery of getting stuck with a large tank needing correction. I could make do without the large tank and just get a small one for the fridge like you detailed if we want it or not at all just for brewing.

 

[day_trippr]

fwiw, I've mentioned this in other similar threads but I did go through the trouble of running a split from my RO system upstairs to our kitchen fridge. Then we found we liked our well water much more than RO.

So, before one gets all pumped up about running RO water for potable use, I suggest actually drinking some distilled water and seeing if that's something one still desires. Note, not store bought "RO" water - unless it can be solidly shown it hasn't had minerals back-added (commonly done). DI would be close enough to RO for the purposes of a character assessment...

Cheers!

 

[ITV]

In my case I have city water and don't like the taste of chlorine so I ran both fridges to RO water which I use to fill my coffee makers. That way I don't need to descale them.

I also added additional RO tube to fill my brew kettle up the night before a brew day utilizing a float valve, saves my back from lifting jugs of water.

The attached PDF is a schematic of what I ended up with.

 

[DavidWood2115]

Float: Plastic Float Valve For Reverse Osmosis RO System#SP-FV
You can put that in a bucket or you can install it temporarily on one of your kettles/HLT. with this bracket.
http://www.purewaterclub.com/index.php/pt-fvbs.html

Love this suggestion, Bobby, but the arm on the bracket looks too short for the rig I am looking to build. I am planning to buy a 20 gallon Spike kettle to BIAB both 5 and 10 gallon batches (6 and 12 into the fermenter). Eyeballing this bracket, float, and Spike’s cut away drawing it looks like lowest shutoff point would be 7-8” below the rim. This would mean filling the kettle with at least 13 gallons, which is much too much for a 5 gallon batch. Anyone know of a longer bracket option?

 

[Moose_MI]

All pressurized RO storage tanks tend to result in the taste and odor of the plastic bladder in the tank showing up in the water. Even very small tanks. This is easy to address however with a simple taste and odor filter between the tank and the outlet.

Russ set me up with 100 gpd system and 2 inline 14G tanks and the odor filter mentioned here. I absolutely love it. There is zero odor or plastic smell/taste. I just mention in case others ever want to go this route.

Only complaint is the name. “Buckeye”. Seriously? Go Blue!

 

[ITV]

Love this suggestion, Bobby, but the arm on the bracket looks too short for the rig I am looking to build. I am planning to buy a 20 gallon Spike kettle to BIAB both 5 and 10 gallon batches (6 and 12 into the fermenter). Eyeballing this bracket, float, and Spike’s cut away drawing it looks like lowest shutoff point would be 7-8” below the rim. This would mean filling the kettle with at least 13 gallons, which is much too much for a 5 gallon batch. Anyone know of a longer bracket option?

I use my leftover RO water to mix up a new batch of starsan.

 

[Bobby_M]

Love this suggestion, Bobby, but the arm on the bracket looks too short for the rig I am looking to build. I am planning to buy a 20 gallon Spike kettle to BIAB both 5 and 10 gallon batches (6 and 12 into the fermenter). Eyeballing this bracket, float, and Spike’s cut away drawing it looks like lowest shutoff point would be 7-8” below the rim. This would mean filling the kettle with at least 13 gallons, which is much too much for a 5 gallon batch. Anyone know of a longer bracket option?

DIY versions would have endless height options. A piece of 1x3 pine, an L bracket and a spring clamp. I can make you something in stainless for a few bucks.

 

[Bobby_M]

fwiw, I've mentioned this in other similar threads but I did go through the trouble of running a split from my RO system upstairs to our kitchen fridge. Then we found we liked our well water much more than RO.

Cheers!

I didnt mind my well taste at all but it has arsenic in it so.... We even cook pasta with RO.

I have a squirt bottle of super concentrate calcium chloride, gypsum and a pinch of salt in it. If one desires some mineral water, one mil squirt will do. I add it to my coffee.

 

[jseyfert3]

I too recommend @Buckeye_Hydro. Contact him with your needs and he’ll suggest a solution for you.

Mine is mounted downstairs, the typical 100 gpd unit. I have the drinking water add-on kit and permeate pump. My system has a split output, with one side connected to the pressure tank which routes out to our fridge ice maker and a drinking faucet I installed at our kitchen sink. The other output is not connected to the pressure tank and is for filling tanks for brewing water. Currently I’ve only done 5 gallon extract kits so I just fill a 7 gallon water cube using a timer to remind me to come shut the system off (100 gpd ≈ 4 gph). I just ordered an Anvil foundry so I’ll probably go to my initial plan of a float valve in a pair of linked 7 gallon water cubes for collecting.

A float valve is a lot cheaper than a pressure tank. Just need to remember to turn it on ahead of time. The system will run until the float valve shuts it off for you. In the meantime the small pressure tank will provide you with a decent amount of drinking water (the pressure tank can’t refill if the float valve is open).

Besides work, I've run into other kitchens with the drinking water faucet on the side. Those may or may not be RO then I guess. Maybe we have a pressure tank though, I will check next opportunity and see.

I suspect more of these faucets are not RO vs ones that are RO, because RO systems are expensive and people are cheap. Also as stated some people do not like the taste of RO water.

I’ve seen these faucets installed completely unfiltered simply to provide unsoftened water for drinking when the kitchen sink has soft water. Some people just have simple carbon filters to improve taste.

Bottom line though is no pressure tank means it’s almost certainly not RO.

 

[Reneauj62]

I went back a few pages and didn’t see a thread on this. Can anyone give a recommendation on a RO system?

I have been eyeing the Fizzlife tankless RO. Very low water loss and not like the $3,000-3,500 one that people are suggesting. These Fizzlife are rated well and lets face it, as long as the water is pure does it really matter how much you spend? With this system you can also opt to remineralize your water but not sure why you would for homebrew. Frizzlife Reverse Osmosis Water Filtration System - Alkaline & Remineralization, Superb Taste, Tankless, 500 GPD Fast Flow RO Filter, 1.5:1 Pure to Drain, Reduces TDS, Brushed Nickel Faucet, USA Tech - - Amazon.com

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

I have been eyeing the Fizzlife tankless RO. Very low water loss and not like the $3,000-3,500 one that people are suggesting. These Fizzlife are rated well and lets face it, as long as the water is pure does it really matter how much you spend? With this system you can also opt to remineralize your water but not sure why you would for homebrew. Frizzlife Reverse Osmosis Water Filtration System - Alkaline & Remineralization, Superb Taste, Tankless, 500 GPD Fast Flow RO Filter, 1.5:1 Pure to Drain, Reduces TDS, Brushed Nickel Faucet, USA Tech - - Amazon.com

Realize that those replacement filters are proprietary and very expensive.

Any RO system can be set up to a 1.5:1 Pure water to drain water ratio... but you don't want that for a number of reasons.

The manufacturer is NINGBO YISIPU HUANBAO KEJI YOU XIAN GONG SI in China. Who are you going to call for support? Their website does not include a phone number.

The prefilter is only good for a few hundred gallons.

Have chloramines? The system does not have a prefilter to address that.

There are no testing spec's available on the membrane. Typically 500 gpd membranes are spec'ed at 80 or 100 psi (or more) and 77F.

The website claims the membrane removes "99.99% of 1000+ harmful contaminants." Unfortunately there is not an RO membrane on the planet that can live up to that claim.

 

[jseyfert3]

I have been eyeing the Fizzlife tankless RO. Very low water loss and not like the $3,000-3,500 one that people are suggesting. These Fizzlife are rated well and lets face it, as long as the water is pure does it really matter how much you spend? With this system you can also opt to remineralize your water but not sure why you would for homebrew. Frizzlife Reverse Osmosis Water Filtration System - Alkaline & Remineralization, Superb Taste, Tankless, 500 GPD Fast Flow RO Filter, 1.5:1 Pure to Drain, Reduces TDS, Brushed Nickel Faucet, USA Tech - - Amazon.com

Get a system from Buckeye Hydro. You’re going to get a high quality system tweaked for your needs, with better (and cheaper) filters. The entire system is cheaper. You don’t need 500 gpd as a home brewer.

My 100 GPD system was $365 last year. This included a chloramine removal stage since our water has chloramines, the drinking water add-on kit, float valve, inline dual TDS meter, and permeate pump. If you don’t want drinking water you can skip the drinking water add-on and permeate pump and it’ll be much cheaper than this.

Oh, and you’ll also get great support for both before and after purchase.

I haven’t actually installed the TDS meter yet butI just need to split the lines and stick them into the PTC fittings of the meter. Also need to neaten up my hose routing at some point.

 

[mabrungard]

The water equipment business is rife with hucksters and thieves. Any seller that promises something to good to be true is likely to be stretching the truth or is pulling the wool over your eyes. Going with a recommended and proven supplier such as Russ, is your best protection from the thieves.

In my Zymurgy articles on RO systems, I strongly recommend going with having storage in your system as opposed to buying an oversized RO unit. Having storage will always provide better flow rate and be less expensive than an oversized RO unit. Either pressure tank or open tank, your choice.

I use a 20 gal pressure tank with my system to provide a reliable 10 gallon delivery for brewing my typical 6 gal batches. An important factor in my tank selection is that my system also supplies my kitchen and ice maker. Be aware that you can gang together multiple RO tanks to supplement your overall storage. So I do have my original 2 gal tank teed with my 20 gal tank.

Oh and for God’s sake, be sure to buy a TDS meter to check your system’s output!!

 

[Reneauj62]

Realize that those replacement filters are proprietary and very expensive.

Any RO system can be set up to a 1.5:1 Pure water to drain water ratio... but you don't want that for a number of reasons.

The manufacturer is NINGBO YISIPU HUANBAO KEJI YOU XIAN GONG SI in China. Who are you going to call for support? Their website does not include a phone number.

The prefilter is only good for a few hundred gallons.

Have chloramines? The system does not have a prefilter to address that.

There are no testing spec's available on the membrane. Typically 500 gpd membranes are spec'ed at 80 or 100 psi (or more) and 77F.

The website claims the membrane removes "99.99% of 1000+ harmful contaminants." Unfortunately there is not an RO membrane on the planet that can live up to that claim.

Thank you for the insight, I found it very informative I don't have have all the information which is why I am eyeing and not buying. I currently have a GE RO system (which stays with the house after I sell it) and the filters are much more than this Fizzliite. But, the filters last a heck of a long time according to my TSD meter. I will look into the Buckeye even though it may be more expensive. Thanks again.

 

[Reneauj62]

Realize that those replacement filters are proprietary and very expensive.

Any RO system can be set up to a 1.5:1 Pure water to drain water ratio... but you don't want that for a number of reasons.

The manufacturer is NINGBO YISIPU HUANBAO KEJI YOU XIAN GONG SI in China. Who are you going to call for support? Their website does not include a phone number.

The prefilter is only good for a few hundred gallons.

Have chloramines? The system does not have a prefilter to address that.

There are no testing spec's available on the membrane. Typically 500 gpd membranes are spec'ed at 80 or 100 psi (or more) and 77F.

The website claims the membrane removes "99.99% of 1000+ harmful contaminants." Unfortunately there is not an RO membrane on the planet that can live up to that claim.

So, looking at the Buckeye systems, there are the regular RO systems and the RODI (deionized) ... any thoughts?

 

[Reneauj62]

Get a system from Buckeye Hydro. You’re going to get a high quality system tweaked for your needs, with better (and cheaper) filters. The entire system is cheaper. You don’t need 500 gpd as a home brewer.

My 100 GPD system was $365 last year. This included a chloramine removal stage since our water has chloramines, the drinking water add-on kit, float valve, inline dual TDS meter, and permeate pump. If you don’t want drinking water you can skip the drinking water add-on and permeate pump and it’ll be much cheaper than this.

Oh, and you’ll also get great support for both before and after purchase.
View attachment 744442
I haven’t actually installed the TDS meter yet butI just need to split the lines and stick them into the PTC fittings of the meter. Also need to neaten up my hose routing at some point.

So, looking at the Buckeye systems, there are the regular RO systems and the RODI (deionized) ... any thoughts?

 

[day_trippr]

For brewing beer you can forget about the "DI" stage, there's no need to achieve literally "0 TDS" for brewing beer...

Cheers!

 

[jseyfert3]

So, looking at the Buckeye systems, there are the regular RO systems and the RODI (deionized) ... any thoughts?

RODI is just an RO system that also runs the water through a DI resin filter to remove the remaining ions the RO system doesn’t get. This is really only used at the home scale for saltwater aquariums where it’s very important to have pure water as a base for the sensitive aquatic life. For brewing it’s not needed.

 

[Reneauj62]

For brewing beer you can forget about the "DI" stage, there's no need to achieve literally "0 TDS" for brewing beer...

Cheers!

Very good, and save me money... Thanks

 

[Reneauj62]

RODI is just an RO system that also runs the water through a DI resin filter to remove the remaining ions the RO system doesn’t get. This is really only used at the home scale for saltwater aquariums where it’s very important to have pure water as a base for the sensitive aquatic life. For brewing it’s not needed.

Very good, and save me money... Thanks

 

[mabrungard]

RODI is just an RO system that also runs the water through a DI resin filter to remove the remaining ions the RO system doesn’t get. This is really only used at the home scale for saltwater aquariums where it’s very important to have pure water as a base for the sensitive aquatic life. For brewing it’s not needed.

Exactly! Not needed nor is it desirable. A DI stage just adds cost and complication that is not warranted for brewing usage.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

I got an Apex brand RO system online. Has worked awesome. Gets my water down to under 10 TDS.

 

[KevinP]

All pressurized RO storage tanks tend to result in the taste and odor of the plastic bladder in the tank showing up in the water. Even very small tanks. This is easy to address however with a simple taste and odor filter between the tank and the outlet.

Does this only apply to pressurized containers?
Non pressurized containers do not exhibit this?

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

It depends upon the container you're using. An unpressurized (aka "atmospheric") poly tank can impart taste/odor... but it is less common.

 

[KevinP]

Good point on tank choice. I am considering this HDPE tank. The shape and size would work well for my area and it has good locations to mount a float valve.

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=45893&catid=599
Also is there a practical limit on how far a distance you can run 1/4" RO delivery tubing?
Is a 100 ft run ok? If so does it matter which end of the 100 ft run a pressure tank gets located for drinking water supply?

I should probably just call you but I am home with covid and it hurts to speak right now... lol

Cheers

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

I would jump up to 3/8" tubing for a 100' run. Put the tank close to the outlet.

https://www.buckeyehydro.com/union-connector/

 

[KevinP]

Got it.
On the end of the 100 ft run, where the pressure tank and outlet gets located, would I keep all associated fittings in the 3/8" size or just put a 1/4 to 3/8 union on both ends of the 100 ft run and run all 1/4" fittings?

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

That tank is not certified for drinking water.