RO FILTER - do I need a water report?

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Beerwildered

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I live in an area with very hard water - upwards of 340 ppm (about 20 grains of hardness, or so the city tells me).

I’ve got a four stage RO filter that I use for brewing.

I’m curious: should I simply measure TDS and replace filters when the numbers get high, or should I also look at getting a report from Ward Labs?
 
I think TDS meters are quite cheap, maybe $10 to $20 (but that could be wrong - it's just from memory). In your situation, I'd just rely on the TDS meter provided TDS stay low, say below 20ppm (in which case it't not overly critical what the parts are - they are all low enough to be ignored for homebrewing purposes).
 
TDS meters are about $7-8 apiece on Amazon. If your RO water is 10 or less ppm TDS treat is as if it is distilled. Even at 20 ppm TDS it's alkalinity is most likely on the order of not more than 20 ppm.
 
I’m curious: should I simply measure TDS and replace filters when the numbers get high, or should I also look at getting a report from Ward Labs?

There's your answer. ;)
No sense in putting off replacing a used-up membrane while at the same time wasting money on useless water reports. A TDS meter is a must to check if your RO system is working properly and as others have said you can get them dirt cheap.
 
There's your answer. ;)
No sense in putting off replacing a used-up membrane while at the same time wasting money on useless water reports. A TDS meter is a must to check if your RO system is working properly and as others have said you can get them dirt cheap.

Beautiful. Thanks. TDS meter is ordered. Amazon is a beautiful thing.

But this begs the question: what happens if my TDS reading is greater than 20? My RO filter is nearly new - I’ve probably put at most 120 gallons through it.
 
But this begs the question: what happens if my TDS reading is greater than 20? My RO filter is nearly new - I’ve probably put at most 120 gallons through it.

Then for that case you likely have a bit of remaining alkalinity to address. Given the hardness level of your water it is quite likely that your alkalinity is right up there as well. If you are removing about 95% of everything with your RO unit and you still have some alkalinity that appears as part of an equal to or greater than 20 ppm TDS reading, you can get a KH fish tank testing kit and test it for alkalinity to know more precisely what remains, or you can simply acidify your water to a pH of 5.4-5.5 (approaching this a few acid drips at a time) and call the alkalinity nigh on zero at that juncture (which is what you would be doing anyway, test kit or none).
 
But this begs the question: what happens if my TDS reading is greater than 20? My RO filter is nearly new - I’ve probably put at most 120 gallons through it.
Then you likely have a problem with your membrane but you can cross that bridge if and when you come to it. I've had my system running for almost two years now and it still ouputs at a steady 10-12 ppm.
 
Hi Guys - this is from our FAQ's page. http://www.buckeyehydro.com/faq/

Some of it discusses the "DI Stage." If you have an RO rather than an RODI, you can ignore the discussion about the DI stage.

When should I replace my filters?

A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the usable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or more of the prefilters (all the filters that touch the water before it reaches the RO membrane) is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. A good 0.5 micron carbon block for example will remove much of the chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Some original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons. Remember that all the water you process, both waste water and purified water, goes through the carbon block.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your total dissolved solids (TDS) meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million [ppm]) in three places: 1) tap water, 2) after the RO but before the DI, and 3) after the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 ppm. Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO membrane housing and you'll see it is still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 96% (i.e., they reject 96% of the dissolved solids in the feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 16 ppm (a 96% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce purified water (a.k.a. “permeate”) more slowly, but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 99%). The lifespan of an RO membrane is dependent upon how much water you run through it, and how “dirty” the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the TDS in the water coming into the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce purified water more slowly as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the TDS in the RO water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm, your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes you'll hear people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin high TDS water. This will exhaust the resin quicker than would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal.

Additionally, don’t forget to sanitize the entire system at least once per year, and wash and lube your housing o-rings with food-grade silicone grease every filter change.

Russ
 
At 20 grains per gallon of Total Hardness, assuming you are not feeding the RO softened water, you should expect the RO membrane life to be shortened significantly. Scale will build up inside the membrane.

Russ
 
My first thought is that alkalinity is likely to fall somewhere between extremes of ballpark 22 and 44 ppm for your RO water. Acidify your RO water to pH 5.4-5.6 and it will be essentially as good as any other RO water, sans that your sodium may be as high as in the general neighborhood of 22 ppm (which in my way of thinking about sodium is not an issue).

My second thought is that your RO unit should do better than that. For example, my well water is about ballpark 876 ppm TDS, and consistently around 45 ppm TDS as it exits my RO unit.

Sometimes (particularly if no bladder pressurized RO water storage tank is present) if you let the RO unit run for awhile its TDS will come down.
 
TDS Creep.PNG
Sometimes (particularly if no bladder pressurized RO water storage tank is present) if you let the RO unit run for awhile its TDS will come down.

The relatively high TDS water that comes out of the RO membrane when you first turn a system on is due to a process called "TDS Creep." With a residential-scale RO with typical water pressure, this higher TDS situation resolves itself in less than 2 minutes. Here's some data from two sample runs of a system with a 75 gpd RO membrane:
 
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