RIMs Rocket Question

[A1sportsdad]

I’m just adding mash recirculation to my BIAB system. I’ve purchased a RipTide pump and thinking I need to be able to maintain my temperature better during mashing, so thinking about adding a 120 VAC RIMS Rocket if I’m correct on how I can use it. For now I simply want to power it from an InkBird by putting the probe in a thermowell in the mash. Will it work this way or is there something about the RIMS Rocket I am missing.
Thanks
Tom

 

[sibelman]

Temperature control will probably work best if the temperature sensor is placed at the exit of the RIMS device. The changes in temperature in the middle of your mash will be too delayed for the control to work well. That said, you may need a higher temperature set point at the RIMS exit to achieve the desired temperature in your mash tun.

Before you buy, make sure the power needs of the RIMS Rocket do not exceed the maximum the InkBird controller can deliver. The RIMS Rocket 120V unit seems to want 2000 watts but the InkBird ITC-308 can only deliver 1100 watts -- not apparently a match made in heaven.

Best of luck.

 

[A1sportsdad]

Temperature control will probably work best if the temperature sensor is placed at the exit of the RIMS device. The changes in temperature in the middle of your mash will be too delayed for the control to work well. That said, you may need a higher temperature set point at the RIMS exit to achieve the desired temperature in your mash tun.

Before you buy, make sure the power needs of the RIMS Rocket do not exceed the maximum the InkBird controller can deliver. The RIMS Rocket 120V unit seems to want 2000 watts but the InkBird ITC-308 can only deliver 1100 watts -- not apparently a match made in heaven.

Best of luck.

Thanks for the input. That’s right. I now recall a standard RIMs unit would control the RIMs outlet temp. Didn’t even think about the power draw. May have to just live without the temp control for now and just use the burner if it starts to drop.

 

[doug293cz]

If you try to control a RIMS with the temp probe in a thermowell in the bulk of the mash you will scorch/burn your wort. As @sibelman said the response to temp change will be too slow, and the wort in the RIMS will get severely overheated. With a RIMS you want the temp probe at the exit of the tube, as close to the end of heating element as you can get it to avoid overheating the wort.

Also, an InkBird ITC-308 uses mechanical relays, and with the narrow hysteresis band needed for mash temp control, you will be cycling the relay quit quickly, which will wear them out in short order, especially if you are running at powers near the max for the controller. Heating elements in brewing systems are best controlled with SCRs. A more suitable plug-n-play controller is the InkBird IPB-16S, which has a built in SSR good for up to 1650W @ 120V.

Brew on

 

[sibelman]

good for up to 1650W @ 120V.

Doug, what will happen if this controller is used with a 2000 watt element?

 

[doug293cz]

Doug, what will happen if this controller is used with a 2000 watt element?

Either it will work fine, or the SSR will fail early. I don't recommend running electrical devices above their ratings. Also, it may only have 14 AWG wires, which are only rated for up to 15A.

Brew on

 

[UdonPete]

Use a PID controller - not a 308