• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

RIMS for Dummies

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Anyone have any experience with this?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KUY388M/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

71lojMpgWpL._SL1280_.jpg

I actually purchased some of that stuff from that seller. I got his kit with the heater element pre- epoxied to the box and plug with the wiring rings already crimped on[Hyperlink Removed]. I purchased all the SS pipe separately Which came out to roughly $45 from amazon. I am kicking myself as I should have talked to my plumber ( I am a general contractor) and had him get me the pipe, probably could have saved a few bucks, or had him get me all copper.

I did buy his pre built control box [Hyperlink removed] Which while a little pricy, works just right, came calibrated to the temp probe, and has a full set of instructions geared for our use.

I have used this system twice now, and changing from a recirculated NON heated mash to this setup was a %12 improvement in efficiency. A couple more tweaks and Ill be at 80%.

My setup, I still need to mount the tube, and its all modular since I don't have space to leave it all setup, it works really well. I have a copper soldered manifold on the bottom of the cooler, and a scatter plate mounted to the top. I am actually talking with one of my subs who just works with custom stainless steel to make a insulated stainless steel mash tun.

I read this entire thread, start to finish over a few weeks before doing this. It is so much fun. I'm now able to do two 5 gallon batches in one day (takes about 9 hours including all the cleaning). We just got a two burner (65000btu burners) propane mobile stand, so looking for a second 10gal pot to speed things up even more.

Edit: removed hyperlinks to contentious products

WP_20150308_003.jpg


WP_20150308_002.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I actually purchased some of that stuff from that seller. I got his kit with the heater element pre- epoxied to the box and plug with the wiring rings already crimped on. I purchased all the SS pipe separately Which came out to roughly $45 from amazon. I am kicking myself as I should have talked to my plumber ( I am a general contractor) and had him get me the pipe, probably could have saved a few bucks, or had him get me all copper.

I did buy his pre built control box Which while a little pricy, works just right, came calibrated to the temp probe, and has a full set of instructions geared for our use.

I have used this system twice now, and changing from a recirculated NON heated mash to this setup was a %12 improvement in efficiency. A couple more tweaks and Ill be at 80%.

My setup, I still need to mount the tube, and its all modular since I don't have space to leave it all setup, it works really well. I have a copper soldered manifold on the bottom of the cooler, and a scatter plate mounted to the top. I am actually talking with one of my subs who just works with custom stainless steel to make a insulated stainless steel mash tun.

I read this entire thread, start to finish over a few weeks before doing this. It is so much fun. I'm now able to do two 5 gallon batches in one day (takes about 9 hours including all the cleaning). We just got a two burner (65000btu burners) propane mobile stand, so looking for a second 10gal pot to speed things up even more.


Nice, it works well going back into the cooler? What do you use to disperse it when going back in?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I actually purchased some of that stuff from that seller. I got his kit with the heater element pre- epoxied to the box and plug with the wiring rings already crimped on. I purchased all the SS pipe separately Which came out to roughly $45 from amazon. I am kicking myself as I should have talked to my plumber ( I am a general contractor) and had him get me the pipe, probably could have saved a few bucks, or had him get me all copper.

I did buy his pre built control box Which while a little pricy, works just right, came calibrated to the temp probe, and has a full set of instructions geared for our use.

I have used this system twice now, and changing from a recirculated NON heated mash to this setup was a %12 improvement in efficiency. A couple more tweaks and Ill be at 80%.

My setup, I still need to mount the tube, and its all modular since I don't have space to leave it all setup, it works really well. I have a copper soldered manifold on the bottom of the cooler, and a scatter plate mounted to the top. I am actually talking with one of my subs who just works with custom stainless steel to make a insulated stainless steel mash tun.

I read this entire thread, start to finish over a few weeks before doing this. It is so much fun. I'm now able to do two 5 gallon batches in one day (takes about 9 hours including all the cleaning). We just got a two burner (65000btu burners) propane mobile stand, so looking for a second 10gal pot to speed things up even more.

I'm now suspicious of any one who's first post on this forum is talking about this amazon seller's merch. Is that you Tom Hargrave?

Just an FYI for those who aren't aware: apparently that guy likes to come on here from time to time with fake accounts posing as a very satisfied customer.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'm now suspicious of any one who's first post on this forum is talking about this amazon seller's merch. Is that you Tom Hargrave?

Just an FYI for those who aren't aware: apparently that guy likes to come on here from time to time with fake accounts posing as a very satisfied customer.

Im not sure if I should be offended or not. I have been lurking on these forums for years now as an excellent resource for advice. I also think the brew control guy is charging a stupid pile of money for the pipe kit, as its not even assembled. But that with reading all the people struggling to get all the right parts for the Aubrn PID systems working right, and many people lacking the tools/skill to make housings for them, that the pre built PID controller is actually a solid investment. My take away from these forums so far is that its a good place to share when your find something that does its job and does it well. If you read back there are tons of people recommending a variety of products from all over the place.

I don't know who Tom Hargrave is, or why he is relevant to this discussion. If he is someone who makes and sells brewing equipment, do you really thing his brewing setup would look anything like mine?
 
Im not sure if I should be offended or not.

If you're Mr Hargrave then I care about as much for your feelings as you do for ethics.

If your not then welcome to the forum! I ment no offense toward you, and I apologize if you were offended. Seriously.

...but if you are... For shame!

:mug:
 
If you're Mr Hargrave then I care about as much for your feelings as you do for ethics.

If your not then welcome to the forum! I ment no offense toward you, and I apologize if you were offended. Seriously.

...but if you are... For shame!

:mug:

I'm most certainly not Hargrave. I really don't understand both why you would think I was, and why this person is so terrible. Is he the brew-control seller on amazon?
 
I'm most certainly not Hargrave. I really don't understand both why you would think I was, and why this person is so terrible. Is he the brew-control seller on amazon?


If you do a quick search for his name on this forum you'll see why he is so concerned that a: you are him and b: that you bought a product of his.
 
If you do a quick search for his name on this forum you'll see why he is so concerned that a: you are him and b: that you bought a product of his.

Well I had no idea that the amazon seller, and that guy were connected. Hence my confusion. All I knew is that I found something on amazon that did what I needed it to do. Im sorry that his reputation has sullied my recommendation, I will take you guys at your word that he is an unethical person and withdraw my recommendation. which is really a shame that his business practices are so bad, as the product I received is good. Always depressing to see someone ruin an otherwise good product with poor ethical decisions. Had I known anything about him, or known that he was brew-control then I would have made different decisions.

That being said, I hope that you can all rest assured that I am not that guy, and we can move on.
 
Nice, it works well going back into the cooler? What do you use to disperse it when going back in?

I have a simple scatter plate on the inside of the lid. Seems to work pretty well. I had a copper manifold on the top too, but I drilled the holes too close, and too big so it wasn't distributing very well at all. Since I am planning on switching to a cylinder shaped mash tun the scatter plate will be better in that.
You can kinda see the plate in this photo.

WP_20150308_001.jpg
 
That takes up a lot of real estate. I saw some pics on here using an old pressure washer frame to mount the RIMS to, but found a better solution.

RIMS 1.jpg
 
Think your better off at that price point going with bobby's tri clamp rims (brewhardware.com) for $130ish and adding an element and wire.

This is what I am going to do once i have the money together. First I have to buy the pump.. Man this stuff is expensive.

**edit**

Question to those in the know...

Do you think there would be any difference in the useage of a copper pipe VS a stainless steel pipe? I was thinking that building it out of copper may be less expensive? Plus I could build it through items purchased at a home improvement shop, instead of having to order stuff online.
 
I just order one of these kits from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KUY388M/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

After ordering I stumbled upon this thread, I wish I would have seen it earlier.

I didn't realize that the guy selling them was the same as the one here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=120110

Even though I figured it would be more expensive I liked the idea of buying it as a kit because I don't really know a whole lot about hot water heater elements, and their size and figured if I tried to do it myself I would order the wrong size piping or fitting.

According to Amazon he has shipped it, I can update if/when I receive it if anyone cares.

In the mean time I was going to use the WS-1500ES Sous Vide Cooking Controller to power it: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13&products_id=44
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This is what I am going to do once i have the money together. First I have to buy the pump.. Man this stuff is expensive.

**edit**

Question to those in the know...

Do you think there would be any difference in the useage of a copper pipe VS a stainless steel pipe? I was thinking that building it out of copper may be less expensive? Plus I could build it through items purchased at a home improvement shop, instead of having to order stuff online.

I have never seen copper pipe of the size this application needs at a home improvement shop. Major plumbing supply stores would probably have/be able to get it. This is actually a conversation I had with my plumbing subcontractor before building this. The take away was that the copper would be more expensive, and while it does have a anti-microbial properties naturally, the fact that we are using these pipes for a short period, then cleaning and setting aside makes that advantage kind of moot. The stainless steel is much easier to get, its pretty cheap too. The SS parts for my tube were under $40.

EDIT: after looking around online for threaded copper fittings, it looks like copper is roughly double the cost of SS. I would suggest sticking with SS unless you really like copper.
 
I just order one of these kits from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KUY388M/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

After ordering I stumbled upon this thread, I wish I would have seen it earlier.

I didn't realize that the guy selling them was the same as the one here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=120110

Even though I figured it would be more expensive I liked the idea of buying it as a kit because I don't really know a whole lot about hot water heater elements, and their size and figured if I tried to do it myself I would order the wrong size piping or fitting.

According to Amazon he has shipped it, I can update if/when I receive it if anyone cares.

In the mean time I was going to use the WS-1500ES Sous Vide Cooking Controller to power it: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13&products_id=44

I bought all the SS parts separately but I bought the pre wired heater element from there. I will say that its a good choice in elements. Its quite long and turned back, making it very low density. He was pretty slow shipping, took a week for him to ship my stuff, and he has a horrible reputation here, which seems quite well founded. Fortunately the things I ordered from him (not knowing any of this either) are all working exactly as advertised. I actually bought his controller box, but there is tons of info in this thread that would help you put together your own controller.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yeah it is a little pricy, however it seems to be durable and accurate. It is all inclusive, so you don't have to build any box for it, just plug it in, and plug your heater into it. It does max out at 15 amps which could be a problem if you are running 2000 watts at 120 volt. It is an alternative to anyone who is squeamish about building their own PID.

I bought it about a year ago to do sous vide cooking, and until recently realized I probably could have built one for cheaper. But hey that is how you learn.
 
I just got a rims tube setup all put together and setup (minus the pump and fittings). I got the setup used from a fellow homebrewer, and got it for 150. Not a bad price IMO.

I just gotta find a deal on the pump now.
 
So I tested my RIMS today (hadn't planned on it but forgot to preheat the tun - been awhile since I brewed) and the element didn't work. I got one of these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUDSI/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_1

a Camco 4500 watt 240 v. element. I wired it for 120 volt - hot wire to one post and neutral to other. Made sure it was getting power, although I haven't opened up the plug end yet to make sure that is wired up properly, but I'm usually pretty careful about that. I'll look at it tomorrow. But wondering if these elements have been known not to work out of the box on occasion. I've got two similar 5500 watt ones in the HLT and BK at 240 volts and they work fine. Curious if it is defective.

cheers, JD
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Mine is a 5500w/220V element running at 120V/1375W. It's the ulta low density (has the folded back element) hot water element for high lime, which can be run dry. Works decent for 120V use. Use it to maintain mash temp once up to temp. and also during cleaning as shown below. With Mark's keg washer I run at or below 120F because of risk of scalding.

RIMS.JPG
 
Mine is a 5500w/220V element running at 120V/1375W. It's the ulta low density (has the folded back element) hot water element for high lime, which can be run dry. Works decent for 120V use. Use it to maintain mash temp once up to temp. and also during cleaning as shown below. With Mark's keg washer I run at or below 120F because of risk of scalding.


PlexVector...........I'm not wanting to do a "RIMS" setup, but I do want to make such a heater setup for a keg / carboy washer.

Without wading through 138 pages...........Is there a parts list for building said heater?

Thanks!
 
PlexVector...........I'm not wanting to do a "RIMS" setup, but I do want to make such a heater setup for a keg / carboy washer.

Without wading through 138 pages...........Is there a parts list for building said heater?

Thanks!

The costs are from last year and some items like the pid /sensor and ssr can be found on amazon cheaper. I used the steel junction box as the heat sink for the SSR, since I'm not dumping that much current through it. For heating water you don't need an ultr low density, so a shorter high density will work and is cheaper and where I have a 12" nipple (for the main body of the RIMS) you can get shorter, which will be lower cost. I think the 8" nipple was around $12. I went with the element enclosure kit from Brewhardware.com, but there are less cost ways of doing it. Today, I could probably do it $100 cheaper than before if I tried, but I was in a hurry then to get it up and running. You can't see it in the picture, but I put a cam lock on the base of the washer. I know have a 24VDC tan pump that I use with a PWM controller that I use thanks to @augiedoggy
RIMS parts list.PNG
 
Thanks, Bro!
I'll not have all the fancy "pid/ssr" stuff I don't think!

Just a simple temp switch capable of switching the element on and off.

I need something small, to supplement the heating element in a dishwasher is all.

Much appreciated!
 
NP, Glad to help. I run 120F for several reasons: safety, not to overheat the submersible pump, not to overheat the washer's plastic, and not overheat the plastic fermenter. also, here is a pic of where I attached the output cam lock, which I got the plug for when I don't use the recirculation.
IMG_3115.JPG
 
Anyone else having trouble finding all the the parts from Murray Equipment Co? I've typed in the URL and still cannot find anything. Advice?
 
Anyone else having trouble finding all the the parts from Murray Equipment Co? I've typed in the URL and still cannot find anything. Advice?

Sorry for the really, really, really late reply. You have to call them. The guy on the phone was great. when I started listing what I wanted he asked if I was a home brewer. That was well over a year ago.
 
Sorry for the really, really, really late reply. You have to call them. The guy on the phone was great. when I started listing what I wanted he asked if I was a home brewer. That was well over a year ago.

I was thinking about doing that but they look like more of a wholesale outfit. Thanks for the response! I can finally get started on this project that I've been dying to start for so long!
 
Back
Top