Regulator question - if the beer is already carbonated to a higher PSI...

[Rev2010]

...then you set the regulator to a lower psi it should climb to what the current pressure in the keg is yes? Like, if a beer is carbonated at 36 degrees to 16psi and you hookup the gas and set it to 12psi it should climb to somewhere close to 16psi no?

I've been using Taprite regulators for years with no issues whatsoever but I recently kegged a Belgian ale and did my usual 30 hours at 30psi burst carb, purge and reset it to 15psi. Well what actually happened was I brought it to 14psi and when the needle stopped moving I starting slowly turning up the knob but the needle didn't move. I know it sometimes take time for small adjustments to reflect so I left it but when I came home last night it was up to nearly 18psi. So I dialed the regulator down and purged and reset to 15psi but over an hour or two it had climbed to 16psi. So I dialed it down again and purged and instead set it to 12psi. This morning, about 9 hours since I set it to 12psi, it's now sitting at 15psi. Looks like it's holding steady but I won't know until I get home after work. Was originally worried the regulator went bad since it was slowly creeping but then I started thinking maybe the beer was simply carbonated slightly past my desired 15psi and that is what causing the creep up I am seeing. The hydrometer sample did taste more carbonated than usual. Anyone?


Rev.

 

[OG-wan Kenobi]

Temperature fluctuation can cause this have you checked that? Do you have 1 or multiple beers kegged and if more than 1 I presume this is the only one behaving this way? How old is the gauge/regulator maybe it's getting a little old/tired?? 30lbs at 30hrs is not a lot I do 30lbs for 48-60 hours then I drop to 8-10lbs so that's why I doubt it's your beer gassing off however anything is possible but when I set my pressures they stay put they don't fluctuate I also use Taprite.

 

[balrog]

Regulator drift. Different from Tokyo Drift, but just as hard to watch happen.

 

[Rev2010]

Temperature fluctuation can cause this have you checked that

I keep the tank in the kegerator. The beer and regulator have been at a steady 36 degrees. No temp changes. I'll know for sure if it's holding steady when I get home Just hate waiting all day to find out and hope it doesn't climb higher. It's a dual keg regulator btw, only one keg currently connected. If it is still rising I'm going to move it over to the other regulator for now.


Rev.

 

[OG-wan Kenobi]

Yea we all know that anxious homebrew feeling hopefully it ends up a non issue

 

[tll77]

.then you set the regulator to a lower psi it should climb to what the current pressure in the keg is yes?

Yes. Assuming there is not a check valve between the keg and regulator.

If there is a check valve it will remain closed until pressure on the downstream side(keg) is equal to or less than the upstream side(regulator).

 

[Rev2010]

I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0060NOX40/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

but from what I recall reading the backflow checkvalve is to prevent liquid from entering the regulator. I'm figuring this isn't the type of check valve you're referring to?


Rev.

 

[tll77]

Sure, that is why we put a check valve in place. But, if it's there, it will 'check' liquid or gas.

 

[Rev2010]

Sure, that is why we put a check valve in place. But, if it's there, it will 'check' liquid or gas.

OK, so you're saying my regulator (being it says it has check valves) shouldn't show the actual pressure inside the keg if the beer were more highly carbonated and it should only show the pressure I set it to?


Rev.

 

[tll77]

Correct. That gauge can only 'feel' your keg if the check valve is open. The gauge is on the regulator to indicated desired output pressure setting and is not intended to be a keg pressure gauge.

I believe that regulator has a Thomas type check valve, also known as a duckbill. The same type of valve, but smaller, than what you would see in the gas in of a sanke coupler.

The higher pressure in the keg pushes the 'duckbill' side closed, blocking the lower pressure from the regulator side until the two are equal(roughly).

 

[Rev2010]

The higher pressure in the keg pushes the 'duckbill' side closed, blocking the lower pressure from the regulator side until the two are equal(roughly).

Gotcha. So what would cause a good regulator like the Taprite only in use since June (forth keg tapped with it) to suddenly, and very slowly, start over pressuring kegs? When I had a kegco regulator way back when and it went bad it would climb in seconds from zero to blowing the pressure relief safety valve. Now, I won't know 100% till I get home if the problem is still occurring but I'll report back. As mentioned earlier, I reset it before bed but this time to a lower 12psi and 9 hours later in the morning it was sitting at 15psi. If it's still at 15psi when I get home then great, I'll consider it a pressure imbalance of some form. But if it's climbed then definitely that side of the regulator is busted. I'm very careful with it though and I always turn the shutoff valve before purging and I dial the regulator knob all the way down before opening the shutoff valve and resetting the pressure.



Rev.

 

[Rev2010]

Just got home and checked my PSI, it's holding steady at 15 psi. So, false alarm! I'm guessing it was an imbalance in pressure or something to that effect. That's a relief.

Rev.

 

[tll77]

Great news! I would hate to hear you had to rebuild a regulator after just a few months.

 

[balrog]

You can do this?

Great news! I would hate to hear you had to rebuild a regulator after just a few months.

 

[mongoose33]

You can do this?

https://www.morebeer.com/products/co2-regulator-rebuild-kit.html

 

[day_trippr]

fwiw, I've rebuilt a few dispensing and a couple of welding regulators and it takes about 10 minutes to complete.
There's really not much to it, nothing special required.
The key is buying regulators that actually have rebuild kits available...

Cheers!

 

[balrog]

Ah, there's always a catch.
Thanks guys.