Refrigerator fermentation temp

[MNHomebrew]

Hello home brewers,




I’m sure this has been covered and asked before but I live in MN and my basement is currently in around 60 - 64F. I just got a free refrigerator that can store my carboy in but inside the refrigerator is only 60F. How does everyone raise there temp? I just received my inkbird in the mail but I need to get that temp up. I want to be able to keep it around 68 - 70F. I had built this rather large room before with a space heater but I want to downsize and get a more accurate reading. I saw someone mentioned I could use a water bath with a fish tank heater (which I have) but I’d rather use this refrigerator.

 

[McKnuckle]

A couple of ideas for heat inside a small fridge are a seedling mat or a lightbulb. If your Inkbird has separate outlets for heat and cooling, plug the fridge into the cooling side and one of those gadgets into the heating side.

 

[TechFanMD]

The temp controller (which are only $30) is a must. If you pitch at 68F and run the fridge on the temp controller with the probe taking a good liquid temp (band/tape the probe to the fermenter with some bubble wrap or folded towel for insulation), the yeast will be your heat source in this case and it will probably need to run the fridge to keep it at 68-70 within 24-36hrs (basing this off of your ambient temps and what you've stated). You'll probably only need heating when you need to go warmer - at least for a few days.

Otherwise: mini-paint can with a bulb in it (wattage varies by how your system is set up, but you don't need much). The can keeps the light in and helps reduce risk of fire. Your basement seems cool enough that you'll need a heat source - or - just be 'cool' with fermenting at 64F.

 

[LittleRiver]

I use a reptile heat mat I found on Amazon. Works great.

 

[_BullDog_]

A couple of ideas for heat inside a small fridge are a seedling mat or a lightbulb. If your Inkbird has separate outlets for heat and cooling, plug the fridge into the cooling side and one of those gadgets into the heating side.

I use a seeding mat. Want a low watt solution and it works great in the winter.

 

[Lefou]

Otherwise: mini-paint can with a bulb in it (wattage varies by how your system is set up, but you don't need much). The can keeps the light in and helps reduce risk of fire. Your basement seems cool enough that you'll need a heat source - or - just be 'cool' with fermenting at 64F.

I pulled a variation of this trick for satellite dish feeds with enclosed housings that would ice over during bad weather. That said, 60-64F can be a good ambient range for a clean ale fermentation. Mash methods and the choice in yeast strains can make a difference, too, so choose wisely.

 

[DanBeamer]

Got a fermwrap heater of amazon (https://www.amazon.ca/FermWrap-FE65...=B074D9FCQ8&psc=1&refRID=RY09NSR7DEB13JRQH2W2) for like 25 bucks-- other options are reptile/terrarium heat pads. Mine is 40 w so less than most lightbulbs and it only comes on 1/2 the time

 

[MNHomebrew]

A couple of ideas for heat inside a small fridge are a seedling mat or a lightbulb. If your Inkbird has separate outlets for heat and cooling, plug the fridge into the cooling side and one of those gadgets into the heating side.

I thought about the mat as well and the light bulb concerned me the light that would come off of it. It’s already a pretty tight fit in my refrigerator to set up a lamp/something to block the light as well. I’ll try and look into that though and see what I can come up with. Thanks for the response.

 

[MNHomebrew]

The temp controller (which are only $30) is a must. If you pitch at 68F and run the fridge on the temp controller with the probe taking a good liquid temp (band/tape the probe to the fermenter with some bubble wrap or folded towel for insulation), the yeast will be your heat source in this case and it will probably need to run the fridge to keep it at 68-70 within 24-36hrs (basing this off of your ambient temps and what you've stated). You'll probably only need heating when you need to go warmer - at least for a few days.

Otherwise: mini-paint can with a bulb in it (wattage varies by how your system is set up, but you don't need much). The can keeps the light in and helps reduce risk of fire. Your basement seems cool enough that you'll need a heat source - or - just be 'cool' with fermenting at 64F.

Yup I just picked up my inkbird on amazon, looking forward to using it and dialing in my temps. Yeah that’s the thing, I only need to go up 6 - 8 degrees and I doubt my yeast would compensate for that and it’ll eventually go down. I doubt a blanket would keep it warm as well.

 

[MNHomebrew]

I use a reptile heat mat I found on Amazon. Works great.

I’m leaning towards one of those or a brewers mat/belt.

 

[MNHomebrew]

Got a fermwrap heater of amazon (https://www.amazon.ca/FermWrap-FE65...=B074D9FCQ8&psc=1&refRID=RY09NSR7DEB13JRQH2W2) for like 25 bucks-- other options are reptile/terrarium heat pads. Mine is 40 w so less than most lightbulbs and it only comes on 1/2 the time

Honestly I think I’m going to go this route. Thanks for the reply and link.

 

[bleme]

I use a seeding mat like this one. It's only $11, is waterproof, and heats nice and slow so there aren't big temperature swings.

 

[LittleRiver]

Here's a link to the reptile heat mat I use. When I put my fermenter in the chamber it just sits on the heat mat. Simple and effective.

 

[DanBeamer]

Honestly I think I’m going to go this route. Thanks for the reply and link.

Yeah pair this with an inkbird controller and you have pretty tight temperature control--I'm a mega newb at beer brewing but this seems to me the most straightforward and inexpensive method.

 

[tellyho]

Reptile heat mat: $13 on eBay.

 

[Jag75]

I have the inkbird 308 and a fermwrap. I keep the carboy in a chest freezer for lagering . This set up works like a champ.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

What are your brewing/what yeast that you want to HEAT temps to 68-70?

60-64 basement temps are just about perfect for most yeast. Maybe a little high actually. Dont forget the fermentation process produces heat upwards of 5 degrees or more. Youll most likely not need heating at those temps.

The fridge is sealed. The temp from the beer stabilizes the temps after fermentation for a while also and storing ales at 60-64 is just fine.

That being said all the ideas given are good ones

 

[bleme]

What are your brewing/what yeast that you want to HEAT temps to 68-70?

I always bump my temp up to 68-72F after fermentation seems done for a diacetyl rest.

 

[MNHomebrew]

Yeah pair this with an inkbird controller and you have pretty tight temperature control--I'm a mega newb at beer brewing but this seems to me the most straightforward and inexpensive method.

Agreed, all we can do is keep brewing and helping each other out. Thanks for the reply and good luck!

 

[MNHomebrew]

I have the inkbird 308 and a fermwrap. I keep the carboy in a chest freezer for lagering . This set up works like a champ.

I tried using a space heater with my inkbird but my heater wasn't responding with my inkbird. I think it's because the space heater has it's own thermocouple or something which might be overriding the inkbird. I'm going to purchase a belt and use the space heater for my yeast starer.

 

[MNHomebrew]

What are your brewing/what yeast that you want to HEAT temps to 68-70?

60-64 basement temps are just about perfect for most yeast. Maybe a little high actually. Dont forget the fermentation process produces heat upwards of 5 degrees or more. Youll most likely not need heating at those temps.

The fridge is sealed. The temp from the beer stabilizes the temps after fermentation for a while also and storing ales at 60-64 is just fine.

That being said all the ideas given are good ones

I'm using Wyeast North West Ale which calls for 68 - 72F. I actually went a little different route and used my fish tank with a heater to keep it 68 - 70F as of now and will adjust accordingly as the days go on. It's working surprisingly well.