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Reducing RPM's on drill for mill

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I've got the same drill - Chuck up a 1" nail-eater bit - Feed it a 6x6 - and hang the hell on! You couldn't stop that thing from turning if you put a 6' bar on the handle and tied it to a truck :rockin:
(Or, for example, if the bit catches - stopping the bit and turning the drill, with your hand, right into the wall. Don't ask how I know...) It's almost as much fun as riding a 6" belt sander! :ban:

LOL...I hear ya man. Beware the torgue on the heavy duty low rpm drill motors. They can be very dangerous. I was almost thrown off of a scaffold long ago while drilling through a concrete wall with a big ass 3/4" drill. The bit got hung up on some rebar and the drill kept turning a couple of revs even after I let go of the triggger. The pipe extention handle damn near killed me. It was unstoppable. Literally. Even the much smaller geared down drill motors can behave similarly. Just because they aren't turning fast does not mean they can be handled carelessly. You really must experience this **** to fully understand.

Most of the cordless drills are not up to the task of driving a grain mill. Some may be able to do the job, but it will be very hard on them and often the ultimate end is a ruined drill. Much better to get a cheap corded drill motor and it should be a big low rpm unit. Just don't make the mistake of getting tangled up with it while in operation. They can be very unforgiving.
 
Try an old Souix 1" "D handle" drill motor, 325 rpm no load 295 rpm max operating TQ load at 15.8 amps. This will make a Milwaukee Hole Hog on low speed look like a cheap cordless toy from China. Way over the top in TQ output it will snap 1/2" cold rolled steel in a split second. I use it to turn over new engine builds for 10 seconds while pre-oiled for faster fireups.
 
I have a very old electric drill, all steel, and it only has one mode, haul ass with lots of torque. I was worried about my crush with it, but it seems to give a good crush and I get great efficiency and the beers taste great. I am extremely critical of my beer too. So I haven't bothered to get another drill or change anything.
 

There's a reasonably good chance that it would cause the drill motor to overheat. Might not happen immediately, but would probably be detrimental to the motor in the long run. The other issue is that when you use a light dimmer on an AC motor it may slow it down, but it will also reduce the torque considerably. Under load, all of this comes home to roost.
 
I don't know if anyone has sugested this yet, but why don't you look for some diffrent sized pullies and set it up that way. I made my last drill smoke running it at low rpm. So had to get a new one and it has two gears so no need to gear it down anymore. You will just bust up your husks more at high speed but that's no big deal u less you are getting stuck spurges.
 

That's only 300 watts or 2.5 amps as a drill motor will take 4.5 plus amps.
A Milwaukee 1/2 Hole Shooter will draw 5.5 amps or 660 watts, 0-850 rpm.
By the way Milwaukee drill motors can run on AC or DC as they use brushes so a PWM speed control will work on them. The above posted garage door opener motor of straight induction no brushes is only rated for intermittent duty not continuous and will overheat, most are 1/3 to 1/2 HP.
 
In case anyone is interested: Here is my milling setup using the right angle drill. I had originally planned for a more permanent setup but this works so good I dont plan to change anytime soon.

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