Recipe reading question

[Dave T]

On the forums I found this


Darth Vader (Cascadian Dark Ale), 5.5 gal Extract

8.0 lbs. (3.63 kg) LME
1.0 lbs (0.45 kg) crystal 10L
1.0 lbs (0.45 kg) Carafa II Special
0.5 lbs. (0.22 kg) special roast

1 oz. (28 g) Centennial 60 min.
1 oz. (28 g) Cascade 45 min.
1 oz. (28 g) Willamette 15 min.
1 oz. (28 g) Cascade 0 min
1 oz. (28 g) Cascade dry hop

Yeast: US-05

I’m on my second brew, both with kits. This seems reasonably simple to jump into, just a couple questions - or validations

The carafa / special roast are steeped right? At 155-160f?

And the hops - the times after them are how long to boil after adding extract? What’s the point of (0 min), and what does dry hop mean?

Thanks

Dave

 

[chickypad]

Yes, those are steeping grains. The temp isn't crucial but 155-160 is fine. 0 min hops are added at flameout - i.e. when you turn the heat off at the end of the boil. Dry hops are added to the fermenter for aroma - you can read up on the different options in terms of timing and technique.

 

[Dave T]

Ok so 0 min hops I add when I’m done boiling and before I put into the fermenter? I thought that boil pot to fermenter I should strain?

And adding to fermenter for dryhops, same as ‘pitching’ yeast?

 

[beermanpete]

0 minutes means add the hops right at the end of the boil before cooling the wort.
The 0-minute hops are left behind (strained out) along with the other hops.
Dry hopping is usually done after the primary fementation is done.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

0 minutes means add the hops right at the end of the boil before cooling the wort.
The 0-minute hops are left behind (strained out) along with the other hops.
Dry hopping is usually done after the primary fementation is done.

(1) yes
(2) yes
(3) yes

You might want to get a hop bag. A paint strainer bag from Home depot for like $2 works great. Hang the bag in the pot and put the hops in at the correct time then just pull the bag out before you start chilling...keeps the hop crud out of the fermenter

 

[RM-MN]

0 minutes means add the hops right at the end of the boil before cooling the wort.
The 0-minute hops are left behind (strained out) along with the other hops.
Dry hopping is usually done after the primary fementation is done.

The hops added during the boil add bitterness to your beer to counter the sweetness. The longer they boil the more bitterness that is caused, up to about an hour but that boiling eliminated much of the aromatic oils that we perceive as flavor. More than am hour probably doesn't do much. Those hops added late in the boil do add flavor and bitterness but again the boil drives off some, but not all, the aromatic oils. The zero minute addition loses much less aromatic oils and contributes much less bittering but bittering continues until the wort cools to below about 170F. so the recipe expects fast cooling for that.

I don't strain out any hops. The 60 minute hops are finished, but any late addition ones can still be adding flavor. It doesn't hurt to put them into the fermenter except that you will have to keep them out of the bottle. Most of them settle out with the break material and get covered by the yeast. Careful racking will leave almost all the trub behind, especially if you leave the beer in the fermenter for a longer time, like 3 to 4 weeks (how's your patience?).

Since the purpose of dry hopping is to add aroma you do it after all fermentation has ceased so that the activity of the yeast doesn't scrub it away.

 

[Dave T]

Thanks - that makes a lot of sense.

If I don’t strain out the hops into the fermenter, would I want to do a rough strain prior to bottling or will they sediment out enough to not have a lot in the bottles?

And careful racking - what is that in reference to?

Assume trub = the hop residue?

 

[Mothman]

Thanks - that makes a lot of sense.

If I don’t strain out the hops into the fermenter, would I want to do a rough strain prior to bottling or will they sediment out enough to not have a lot in the bottles?

And careful racking - what is that in reference to?

These two questions are kind of pointing to the same answer.

No, you don't need to filter before bottling, it will sediment out... especially if you are patient and/or cold crash (cool off the beer, in the fermenter, significantly for a day or two before packaging).

"Careful racking" means, when transferring (usually siphoning, but some are set up with a spigot on their fermenter) to a bottling bucket, or keg, or whatever you are doing to package, using some care to do so gently, without stirring up the trub (precipitated break material, hops, dormant yeast), to just transfer over clear beer as much as possible.

A bit of trub getting moved over to your bottles or keg isn't a big deal... it too will settle out to the bottom and be left behind in the keg, or in the bottom of the bottle (with a careful pour)