questions about FWH, mash hopping, and distilled water

[mesooohoppy]

I know some people think mash hopping doesn't work (or is a waste of hops), but I've decided I want to try it. So please don't tell me not to do it, I've already bought the hops!

Anywho. Mash hopping: I've searched and I only found one resource online that tells me I need to add specifically when I start to mash out/sparge. Is this true?

I only have a 5 gal mash tun, so I have to mash out twice to meet my volume requirements. Do I add them before I start to mash out or at the beginning of the mash?

FWH: again, I have to mash out twice, so do I toss the hops once the mash in process is complete? When I mash out, I stir and let sit for 15 mins. So there is 30 mins between the original mash wort and the sparge where it just sits there with a lid on it. Or do I add the hops when I turn the flame on? I searched and did not find an answer.

Distilled water: I just recently realized my tap water is garbage for making beer (atleast hoppy ones), since I wanted to brew this weekend I only had access to distilled water, I bought 10 gallons. Unfortunately I only have gypsum, how much per gallon gets added to the water? Do I add it when I am heating up the water for the mash? Do I add in the mash (if so, at what time)? Or do I add to the beginning of the boil?

Thanks in advance for the help. I've been reading up a lot and have lotsa ?s...

 

[jtratcliff]

Do you mean run-off or lauter when you say mash out? Mash out typically means to raise the temperature of your mash above 170F or so to denature there amylase enzymes prior to lautering and running off to your brew kettle.

Add your FWH to the boil kettle when you first start adding your wort.

I've never done mash hopping, so no help there.

 

[mesooohoppy]

Yep, for whatever reason I can't seem to get all of the mash terms to stick.

I am always lautering (I think?). When I drain the mash in water before I start mashing out, I lauter/vorlauf. When I am mashing out (twice), I lauter/vorlauf both times. From what I understand, you don't want any grain particle in the boil (tannins)..?


Thank you for the help

 

[jtratcliff]

You're not mashing out unless you're raising temps to denature the enzymes.

Typically after the is mash complete: you mash out (i.e. raise temps either by infusion or direct fire), vorlauf to set the grain bed, run-off first runnings to the brew kettle (add your FWH here), sparge (batch or fly), vorlauf again, run off 2nd runnings to brew kettle. That entire process is lautering. You only mash out once, since once the temps are raised to 170F and held long enough, the enzymes are denatured and you don't need to do it again.

As for your distilled water, you should check the water chemistry threads... sticky from Yooper, others from AJ Delange and Martin Brungard... Lots of good info there. Also look into Martin's Bru'nwater spread sheet. Looks intimidating but it isn't so bad once you have you water report in hand. Brewersfriend might also have a water chemistry calculator.

You might be able to get by with cutting your water 50/50 with distilled to dilute the bad stuff but not completely get rid of the beneficial stuff. I suspect you'll need more than just gypsum if you go full distilled.

At the very least, you'll want to treat your mash water... Perhaps your sparge water too if you draw it separately. Some folks do boil kettle adjustments, too. But I think the mash adjustments are enough to get started with.