QD options.

[kmat123]

We recently upgraded our system to HERMS and screwing and unscrewing the worm clamps holding onto our hoses is tedious. I've used the search function to check out what people are using for quick disconnects and it seems like the brass ones at McMaster Carr are a popular choice, but we have also been checking out the ProFlow dyanamics SS camlocks. I'm sure there are other options out there as well. For those of you with quick disconnects in your system which ones do you prefer and why? Thanks!

 

[EvilGnome6]

I use the McMaster-Carr QDs with the tubing clamped on to the barbs with zip ties. Works like a charm:

 

[illin8]

Why zip ties and not use regular hose clamps? Just curious...my brass Mcmaster QD's are being delivered today.

 

[EvilGnome6]

Why zip ties and not use regular hose clamps? Just curious...my brass Mcmaster QD's are being delivered today.

Hose clamps chew up the tubing. Zip ties are cheaper, faster, easier and don't damage the tubing.

 

[illin8]

Good to know...thank you sir.

 

[Brewpatrol]

Can you guys throw up the part number of the QD's from Mcmaster Carr that everyone is using. Thanks in advance.

 

[Yooper]

The plug end is part #6739K59

The socket end is part #6739K64

 

[Wayne1]

When I built my brewframe about a year ago, I used the McMaster-Carr brass disconnects.

I recently changed all my fittings over to the stainless steel Camlocks from ProFlow Dynamics. The camlocks have a larger interior diameter allowing greater flow rates. They do not react to any chemicals, are less expensive than the McMaster-Carr QDs and just look cooler

Here is my rig with the McMaster-Carr QDs:

Here it is about a year later with the Camlocks:

Here is a link to some more reviews (with better pictures) of the Camlocks

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/stainless-camlocks-review-158649

 

[Brewpatrol]

The plug end is part #6739K59

The socket end is part #6739K64

Awesome! Do you know what part number it is for the elbow hose barb that some are using?

 

[Yooper]

Awesome! Do you know what part number it is for the elbow hose barb that some are using?

Hm. No, I don't think I have that written down. I only have one of those, and when I ordered more parts, I only needed those two.

 

[illin8]

6739K68 I believe...at least thats what I ordered, along with 6739K64 and 6739K59

 

[FlyGuy]

For the same price as the brass QDs from McMaster-Carr, you can get full port 1/2" QDs from a lot of other vendors. I went with PPE because they shipped to Canada by USPS (cheap, no duty/brokerage).

http://www.ppe.com/10cat/0411.pdf

I like the 1/2" fittings because you get a little better flow out of them than the smaller 3/8" fittings.

 

[TheCHICompany]

Lots to choose from...
http://www.chicompany.net/fittings-couplers-valves-19/couplers-222/

 

[arturo7]

Don't forget about the Tri-Clover option.


http://www.brewershardware.com/Tri-Clover-Fittings/

 

[ScottishPete]

I just ordered from PPE, but I'm a little disappointed ... they don't give you tax & shipping costs before checkout ... I went ahead anyway ... my order was $54.60 for raw product and the next day my debit card was billed almost $30 more ... I've also received no status update on my order after the initial order confirmation ... it's been 3 or 4 days

For the same price as the brass QDs from McMaster-Carr, you can get full port 1/2" QDs from a lot of other vendors. I went with PPE because they shipped to Canada by USPS (cheap, no duty/brokerage).

http://www.ppe.com/10cat/0411.pdf

I like the 1/2" fittings because you get a little better flow out of them than the smaller 3/8" fittings.

 

[IrregularPulse]

I refuse to order from anywhere that can't give me a shipping quote and final price with tax and shipping before I give them my CC number. A good deal is worthless if they're hiding behind exaggerated shipping. I was going to go with ppe as well until I saw this on their site.

 

[Yooper]

I refuse to order from anywhere that can't give me a shipping quote and final price with tax and shipping before I give them my CC number. A good deal is worthless if they're hiding behind exaggerated shipping. I was going to go with ppe as well until I saw this on their site.

I don't think McMaster-Carr gives you the shipping quote before shipping, either, but it's always been cheap (actual shipping) so I haven't had any issues. (I don't think there was sales tax at McMaster-Carr either, but I could be wrong about that)>

 

[Bobby_M]

Well, yes, in the case of Mcmaster you can rest easy. They seem to have negotiated bulk rates with Fedex and UPS that are lower than anyone else and they don't charge for handling. They WILL quote you shipping if you ask but it's not a part of their online system.

 

[user 15951]

so, the brass will react with chemicals... which chemicals? (not a chemist... i have poly QD's and would sell them and replace with something cheaper, if the cheaper option is just as good.

 

[broadbill]

so, the brass will react with chemicals... which chemicals? (not a chemist... i have poly QD's and would sell them and replace with something cheaper, if the cheaper option is just as good.

Brass parts contain small amounts of lead that can supposedly leach out when in contact with an acidic solution (say beer wort). Nobody really knows how much lead is actually leached, but there is an easy treatment you can do if you are concerned (see link). Honestly, I wouldn't bother for QDs. I did it for brass parts that comprise my dip-tube in my keggle, just because they stay in contact with the wort for an extended period of time.

http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixB.html

Why sell the poly QD just to switch to something cheaper? You already spent the money so its a sunk cost for you at this point. Between the time spent selling old/buying new, and the hit in price you'll take by selling those QDs used, do you really think you'll come out ahead?

 

[TheCHICompany]

As of 4/2010, (at least in California) ALL brass fittings available retail can not contain any lead. It has cost businesses 100s of millions of $s in stock. Ask any hardware store about this change.

Matt

 

[user 15951]

Brass parts contain small amounts of lead that can supposedly leach out when in contact with an acidic solution (say beer wort). Nobody really knows how much lead is actually leached, but there is an easy treatment you can do if you are concerned (see link). Honestly, I wouldn't bother for QDs. I did it for brass parts that comprise my dip-tube in my keggle, just because they stay in contact with the wort for an extended period of time.

http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixB.html

Why sell the poly QD just to switch to something cheaper? You already spent the money so its a sunk cost for you at this point. Between the time spent selling old/buying new, and the hit in price you'll take by selling those QDs used, do you really think you'll come out ahead?

well, i've inadvertently cross-threaded two of the DQ's, so they're all wonky when attached. if i need to detach and reattach, it'll just get worse.

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

I love tri-clover fittings. Super easy to clean. Quick to connect, and provide a rock solid connection.

 

[wildwest450]

I love tri-clover fittings. Super easy to clean. Quick to connect, and provide a rock solid connection.

And the best part of all, they will empty your wallet in a heartbeat. Why is better always 5 times more money?


.

 

[remilard]

I love tri-clover fittings. Super easy to clean. Quick to connect, and provide a rock solid connection.

+1

ten char

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

And the best part of all, they will empty your wallet in a heartbeat. Why is better always 5 times more money?


.

You get what you pay for.

 

[remilard]

And the best part of all, they will empty your wallet in a heartbeat. Why is better always 5 times more money?


.

If you weld in ferrules rather than welding in a pipe fitting and then buying an adapter, it isn't that much more expensive.

B3 has a 1.5 ferrule, clamp and 1.5" to barb for $36

 

[ScottishPete]

Speak of the devil ... received my PPE QDs today ...

 

[Bobby_M]

After playing with the PFD camlocks a while, I wouldn't use triclovers for the same price, nevermind a 3x premium.

 

[SankePankey]

I have plastic ones, tri-clover, and even hose push-to-connects (which are really cool).

I mulled getting the ProFlow,etc.... but it came down to that there was only one that was sexually androgynous- Tri-clover.

I am a little nuts with using the same parts for multiple uses (which makes me clean them more, a win for sanitation) and the only way to do that and not go completely nuts making sure you had the female of this going to the male of that, etc., was to just go tri-clover. Everything was simpler after that and my brain feels better. Yes it was very expensive, but I don't care if it lasts a lifetime.