Pruning Side Shoots?

[coldrice]

I know the answer is probably on here somewhere but I don't have time to look cuz I have to run to work. I have two sterling rhizomes, each one sent up 3 bines. This is their first year. Both have one bine that is over-achieving compared two its two partners. One of these over-achievers is sending off side shoots out of three of its nodes. I have noticed that the vertical growth on the main growing tip has almost slowed to a stop. Do I pinch off these 'suckers' like tomato plants or just let them rock? Suggestions? Thanks!

 

[david_42]

Sidearms are important, don't prune them. On some hops, the sidearms will produce ALL of the cones!

 

[steinsato]

I wouldn't prune anything at all on a 1st year plant.

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

I just keep them prunedenough so they will not touch the ground and possibly get diseased.. Like Steinsato said they are first year plants and will need all of their energy to develope the root mass.

 

[coldrice]

Ok thanks. what about in subsequent years, though? Also, I have some discoloring on the leaves of the lower 3 feet of my plants, but all the upper parts are fine, any idea what that could be?

 

[B-Hoppy]

The whole idea behind disease management is to create an environment that is unfavorable for development of the disease. Diseases like damp conditions so if you remove the lower 3 feet of leaves/vegetation from the vine you'll be allowing for more air movement in that area which will allow it to dry out quicker. If the sidearms hang down into this area, whack them off. The older leaves generally discolor and weather as the season progresses so that's kinda normal. Have fun.

 

[Ricand]

If you are prone to spider mites in your area, you might trim the bottom 6" and put Tree Tanglefoot on it. I just had an experience where I had spidermites on only one plant (normally a big problem in NorCal), I had forgotten to use Tanglefoot on that one plant. I'm a believer in prevention, particularly if it's certified organic.

 

[Steelers77]

The whole idea behind disease management is to create an environment that is unfavorable for development of the disease. Diseases like damp conditions so if you remove the lower 3 feet of leaves/vegetation from the vine you'll be allowing for more air movement in that area which will allow it to dry out quicker. If the sidearms hang down into this area, whack them off. The older leaves generally discolor and weather as the season progresses so that's kinda normal. Have fun.

Agreed, I also prune the lower 3' to increase airflow and decrease the chance of mold/disease.

I have 3yr old plants and I have to prune new growth at least 1-2 times a wee; I'm talking about new shoots, it's beyond ridiculous how many there are.

One note: I had to prune the top of my plants last year (20' tall) because I didn't want them on the roof and I got more sidearm and subsequently more hops than I have ever had in the past. I am trying it again on a Golding plant as opposed to the Cascade last year; I want to see if there are similar results.

 

[B-Hoppy]

One note: I had to prune the top of my plants last year (20' tall) because I didn't want them on the roof and I got more sidearm and subsequently more hops than I have ever had in the past. I am trying it again on a Golding plant as opposed to the Cascade last year; I want to see if there are similar results.

Steelers,

If I understand your hop growing timeline correctly, last year would have been their second year. There is generally a tremendous difference in what you see when it comes to vigor between year 1 and 2. Sometimes this 'spurt' is more noticeable between year 2 and 3. Combine this with your lopping off the tops last year surely would have increased your yield. You'll also find that certain varieties just don't perform no matter what you do to them. All that's willing to grow for me are Cascades, Bullion, Chinook and a few others. The 'fine' aroma babes just don't like it here.

Also, it may be time to lift your crowns and give them a good 'once over' next spring to control the excessive growth. I just don't have the time any more so I regularly give them a flogging every couple years.

 

[Steelers77]

Steelers,

If I understand your hop growing timeline correctly, last year would have been their second year. There is generally a tremendous difference in what you see when it comes to vigor between year 1 and 2. Sometimes this 'spurt' is more noticeable between year 2 and 3. Combine this with your lopping off the tops last year surely would have increased your yield. You'll also find that certain varieties just don't perform no matter what you do to them. All that's willing to grow for me are Cascades, Bullion, Chinook and a few others. The 'fine' aroma babes just don't like it here.

Also, it may be time to lift your crowns and give them a good 'once over' next spring to control the excessive growth. I just don't have the time any more so I regularly give them a flogging every couple years.

I dug up part of the Cascade this year and my Golding (helping out club members), but thanks for the advice. I was afraid they would not perform as well but I was wrong. I will post some pics soon. I have more to write but no time.

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Test the soil for ph and tim the lower part of the culivar (bine) Hops do not need much to thrive.