Post Boil Hopping/Whirlpooling/Hop Bursting

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bmberger21

Active Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2012
Messages
40
Reaction score
5
Location
Smyrna
I know there are probably some other threads on this somewhere, but I cant find any with clear answers to what I am looking for. I am looking to get some opinion on others experience with adding hops AFTER flame out and performing a sort of extended chilling/steeping process. My main question is if you have performed this sort of process what was the outcome and what was your process. Did you maybe add hops at around 190F-212F and allow it to steep for 10-30 minutes and then maybe do the same process at around 140F-170F for about 10-30 minutes? I am just looking to see if this would be worth the extra effort and time in brewing my next IPA.
 
I have been experimenting a little bit lately. Different hop oils have different boiling temps and alpha acid isomerization drops off substantially below 180-185. If you plan to get bitterness out of the WP add hops at flameout, in my experience there is negligible bitterness below 180. Myrcene boils at 147 (I think, maybe someone else will weigh in). I can remember the temps for the other oils but I can tell you different flavor/aroma profiles will be locked in at different temps. Running a long chill and adding substantial hops adds some aroma and huge flavor but is not a substitute for dry-hopping.
 
I've been experimenting with this, I have no specific temps for you but I can describe my experiences so far.

I had been playing with the idea of "perceived" flavors by using large amounts of aroma additions with minimal flavor additions in the boil.

My last 2 pales have been bittered at 60 min, a 30 min addition then a larger addition at flame out. Here is what the schedule looked like:

5 gal batch at 1.060 OG.

.5 oz Columbus @ 60 mins - 15% AA = 26 ibu
1 oz Centennial @ 30 mins - 9% AA = 24 ibu
.5 oz Columbus flame-out/30 min hopstand addition
.5 oz Centennial flame-out/30 min hopstand addition
.5 oz Cascade flame-out/30 min hopstand addition
1 packet rehydrated Nottingham pitch @ 62°
1 oz Citra dry hop - 5 days
1 oz Mosaic dry hop - 5 days
.5 oz Simcoe dry hop - 5 days

The beer that resulted has a very pronounced tropical fruit flavor from the Mosaic/Citra combo. However, the bitterness is very much in line with what I have come to expect from 50 IBUs.

Using this method, I'm able to generate massive flavor without the added IBUs or mid-range boil additions.

Now, small disclaimer, this beer is only a few weeks old and the flavor has faded slightly with the aroma, but it's still very much there.

I'll continue down this path though, as it has produced good results.
 
I have moved to almost exclusive late / flame out hop additions for my IPAs and I love it.
-I'll add 60 min bittering additions if I need additional bitterness.

You can get SUBSTANTIAL isomerization even below 180F as many a commercial brewery has found out when whirlpool hopping. Also don't forget that bitterness is more than just isomerized alpha acids in the beer and these large charges of late hops add a lot of polyphenols that increase the perception of bitterness beyond the estimated IBU levels. -BrewSmith is good at estimating the bitterness that you'll get from these late additions.


Personally, I hate Myrcene; I think it's just a really unpleasant harsh hop chemical and I'm glad that it's the first oil to go in extended aging. I also like "kettle hop flavor" from my hops generally more than dry hop flavor; especially now that we know that hop oils are transformed by yeast during primary fermentation to produce many of those tropical fruity oils that we know and love. -If this is the kind of hop flavors you're going for large late hop additions are the way to go. -Yes a good percentage of those oils will drop when the yeast flocc and dry hopping is more efficient but the flavors are different so you shouldn't really consider the two techniques equivalent to one another for adding hop flavor.


I JUST switched to recirculation (whilpool) chilling this weekend so I'm changing my process to chill down to 140F to prevent DMS formation and then I'm going to let the wort stand at 140F for 15 minutes for the hop/ trub pile to form, this also helps as a lowish temperature hop stand -then I'll do a final pass through m counterflow to the fermenter.


Adam
 
My limited experience....for about a year I was brewing IPA's without whirlpooling and never got that strong hop nose in my beers. I started whirlpooling and I was getting much better hop flavor after fermentation. I, initially, did the cool down to 140F (with an IC ~ 10min) to prevent DMS and then whirlpooled with the flame out hop additions for 30min. My last beer, I skipped the initial cool down and started whirlpooling with the flame out hops at post boil temp for 30min. The beer turned out fantastic. Basically, the initial cool down after the boil and no cool down made absolutely no noticeable difference for me and I'm able to save time and prevent the risk of contamination and not having to deal with an extra piece of equipment. My hops were thrown in so I'm not sure if hop utilization would be the same if I used a hop bag, etc.
 
Hey Fellas, thanks for all of the excellent feed back. This really helps. I have a few questions for a couple of you in regards to your response. See Below.

*Psylocide: Would you say that the 30 minute hop stand/steep after flameout added to any of the perceived flavor and aroma you got out of the hops in the beer or do you think it was all because of your dry hopping. I am really trying to determine if the hop stand/steep is necessary or not.

*Biertourist: Do you add any ADDITIONAL hops when you get the wort down to 140 and let it sit for 15 minutes? Also, have you experienced any contamination issues by letting it sit at 140 for 15 minutes?

*ndinh: How would you say the hop flavor profile changed after you started performing 30 minute hop stands? Did you add any additional hops during that 30 minute stand or was it all just 'flame out' hops?

Biertourist & ndinh: I noticed that you guys are talking about getting DMS in the beer after the boil if you didn't drop it below 140ish. I thought that the DMS was driven off during the boil? Can you expound on what you mean here?

Thanks again fellas!
 
*Psylocide: Would you say that the 30 minute hop stand/steep after flameout added to any of the perceived flavor and aroma you got out of the hops in the beer or do you think it was all because of your dry hopping. I am really trying to determine if the hop stand/steep is necessary or not.

There was definitely a pronounced flavor/aroma from the hop stand additions. I tasted the first brew before I dry hopped, and while the flavor/aroma was good, I was able to change the flavor or perceived flavor significantly with my dry hop additions.

The part that makes it a huge no-brainer for me is that I do no-chill brewing. It doesn't take any more time for me to throw those hops in there and let them sit, other than the fact that I can't just walk away from it for about a half an hour.

Otherwise, I just pull my hop bag at 30 mins and and go about my day until I transfer to the fermenter.
 
I noticed the hop flavor to be much stronger with the addition of whirlpooling (using the same IPA recipe and same dry hopping amounts). That extra 30mins of letting the post boil wort circulate (or steep) and absorbing the flame out hops makes a big difference. I pretty much follow recipes without adding anything extra but lately, I find myself just doing a 1hr or 90min bittering and then doing a 15min+ 5min+ flame out, no more 30min as some recipes call for. As far avoiding DMS, after reading this article:

http://www.love2brew.com/Articles.asp?ID=455

I was using an IC to do a quick cool down and then I'd add my flame out hops, whirlpool and then run it through my CFC. Lots of extra work for no noticeable difference. Now I just skip all that and whirlpool then CFC. Many veteran brewers will tell you that with a 90 or even 60min boil, most if not all the DMS will evaporate. Of what little remains if any, I didn't notice the difference as proven with my last brew.
 
Myrcene boils at 147 (I think, maybe someone else will weigh in).

The boiloff rate is 167 F.




You can get SUBSTANTIAL isomerization even below 180F as many a commercial brewery has found out when whirlpool hopping.

You have been misinformed. Isomerization grinds to a halt around 180F. If any alpha acids are being isomerized around this temperature, the utilization is negligible, and definitely under 10% of the hops' potential. If you were to do a hopstand at say, 160 F, technically you would be maximizing the hopstand's aromatic potential while at the same time eliminating isomerization.

Also don't forget that bitterness is more than just isomerized alpha acids in the beer and these large charges of late hops add a lot of polyphenols

The oxidized tannin known as phlobaphene combines with wort proteins in the boil. Phlobaphene-protein complexes are insoluble in water, and therefore precipitate in the hot break. These polyphenols then easily combine with heavy wort proteins and drop out to form a large portion of the trub, especially in IPAs whereupon a large amount of kettle hops are used.

The culprit to your harsh experiences with hops is likely due to poor processes, e.g. poor hot break, transferring a ton of trub from kettle to primary, boiling hops for too long. Hops should not be boiled longer than one hour. Except for high gravity beers, the total boiling time should not last longer than 2 hours. Boiling the hops longer than one hour will start generating sharp, undesirable and unpleasant flavors.

that increase the perception of bitterness beyond the estimated IBU levels.

IBU estimations do not matter as much as you think they do. Pliny and Heady are well over the typical IBU targets that most homebrewers shoot for. Besides, the human palate is incapable of discerning bitterness over about 90 actual lab-tested IBUs. This fact has been tested time and time again, so the amount of bitterness that the human palate "perceives" from IBUs has its limitations.

Personally, I hate Myrcene; I think it's just a really unpleasant harsh hop chemical. I also like "kettle hop flavor" from my hops generally more than dry hop flavor.

Myrcene is the primary compound associated with that citrusy, piney, floral, fruity character that we love in Pacific Northwest hops. Saying that you hate myrcene is basically like saying that you hate American IPAs, since just about every good AIPA has some citrusy, piney, floral, and/or fruity traits. Kettle hops are low in Myrcene since the boiloff rate is 167 F, and higher in the other noble, European compounds such as Humulene, Farnesene, Caryophyllene. With those compounds, you get more of that herbal, spicy, grassiness.

especially now that we know that hop oils are transformed by yeast during primary fermentation to produce many of those tropical fruity oils that we know and love.

The reason your primary smells pleasant is due to the C02 being driven out of the airlock, which carries the hop aroma as well. The oils are not being transformed by the yeast to produce a different type of oil.
 
You have been misinformed. Isomerization grinds to a halt around 180F. If any alpha acids are being isomerized around this temperature, the utilization is negligible, and definitely under 10% of the hops' potential. If you were to do a hopstand at say, 160 F, technically you would be maximizing the hopstand's aromatic potential while at the same time eliminating isomerization.

I'll update my mental model and revisit my brew day practices then. Thanks for covering this!

Makes sense as most whirlpool additions / hop stands are chilled in anyway and the wort likely stays above 180F the full time because of huge volumes (not sure about with my 5 gallon batches but I'm sure they'd stay there for a while.



Adam
 
Sorry I never answered your question regarding boiling off DMS and the so-called advantages of cooling your wort quickly. Here's the detailed explanation from beersmith:

http://beersmith.com/blog/2012/04/10/dimethyl-sulfides-dms-in-home-brewed-beer/

A safe bet is just to boil for 90mins.

Yea, but the boil-off rate for DMS varies based upon surface area to volume ratios.

Some mega lager breweries use the Merlin system that passes wort over a hot inverted cone in a thin film -it passes over the whole cone in SECONDS some breweries have had to tweak their pumping rates to actually INCREASE their DMS levels in their beer so it still tastes like lager. -It's the most extreme of most extreme example, but our home brew sized batches have MUCH, MUCH higher surface area to volume ratios of even small microbreweries and most of the studied have been focused on mega lager producers. -I'm not convinced that the quoted half life rules applies for our very different home brewer vessels. I'm not convinced that a vigorous 90 min boil is required even for 100% pilsner malt grists to reduce DMS levels...

I'd REALLY love to see a study done at home brew scales.


Adam
 
The oxidized tannin known as phlobaphene combines with wort proteins in the boil. Phlobaphene-protein complexes are insoluble in water, and therefore precipitate in the hot break. These polyphenols then easily combine with heavy wort proteins and drop out to form a large portion of the trub, especially in IPAs whereupon a large amount of kettle hops are used.

Sounds very similar to the polyphenol+protein chill haze complexes, but doesn't this reaction still require some basic balance between the proteins and polyphenols? -When you do late hopping or hop bursting you can add 4x the hops than you would on a normal schedule, are we not reacting with all the available wort proteins and still leaving plenty of hop-derived polyphenols behind?

-Also with these massive late flame out additions, we're not boiling anymore, do these reactions even have time to fully occur in this situation?



The culprit to your harsh experiences with hops is likely due to poor processes, e.g. poor hot break, transferring a ton of trub from kettle to primary, boiling hops for too long. Hops should not be boiled longer than one hour. Except for high gravity beers, the total boiling time should not last longer than 2 hours. Boiling the hops longer than one hour will start generating sharp, undesirable and unpleasant flavors.

A logical guess to jump to but none of these are true. I've got a 4500 watt electric element that creates volcano boils and massive hot break, I also whirlpool to leave trub behind and really believe in the German practice of minimizing kettle trub -if I have a significant layer of trub I let it settle in my lagering fridge over night and tranfer off of it before pitching yeast.

I don't ever boil for more than 60 minutes; not even for larger % pilsner / lager malt, although I do boil more vigorously.

-I find high myrcene VARIETIES of hops to be harsh tasting when young, especially when dry hopped -over time the harshness fades. Wet hopped beers I pretty much avoid because of this perceived harshness is through-the-roof. This experience correlates (but isn't necessarily caused by) with what the research says about myrcene levels that result from each of these practices. It's definitely a well researched and logical conclusion to come to as a result that the flavor that I don't like is myrcene.

Myrcene is the primary compound associated with that citrusy, piney, floral, fruity character that we love in Pacific Northwest hops. Saying that you hate myrcene is basically like saying that you hate American IPAs, since just about every good AIPA has some citrusy, piney, floral, and/or fruity traits. Kettle hops are low in Myrcene since the boil off rate is 167 F, and higher in the other noble, European compounds such as Humulene, Farnesene, Caryophyllene. With those compounds, you get more of that herbal, spicy, grassiness.


"..fresh hops contain mainly myrcene, which disappears as the hops get older." Laboratory of Organic Chemistry, Ghent, Belgium: http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/j.2050-0416.1968.tb03099.x/pdf

Myrcene is found in "very low levels in kettle-hopped beers (because of high volatility and low solubility)".
"In fact, some studies have shown that myrcene levels in beer which were hopped at the beginning of the boil are around 0.13 ppb while beers which were hopped after wort colling at about 66ppb - a 508x difference!"


"Myrcene is also readily oxidized and there are some ideas that if it doesn't volatilize up and out the kettle stack, then it probably degrades..."

"The same study mentioned above showed that a post-wort-colling hop addition with hops aged at 40C for 30 days yeilded myrcene levels of 0.82ppm as opposed to the 66ppm with cold stored hops."


-Even heat from hop pellet processing can reduce myrcene levels- whole hops can have up to 70% more myrcene than pellets of the same variety.

https://beersensoryscience.wordpress.com/2011/08/08/myrcene/
http://inhoppursuit.blogspot.com/2011/07/hop-oil-is-bigger-better-preview-of.html

Traditional hop storage practices involved periods of aging hops so that harsh bitterness faded and the flavor was more agreeable and rounded. We know how these hops were stored and aged and even research from the 60s says that these practices would have reduced myrcene levels.

Myrcene itself is not your friend regardless of it's high levels in many beloved raw American hops.

The flavor differences between kettle hopping and dry hopping are well known and certainly some people prefer one vs. the other, but the literature is pretty clear that one of the MAJOR differences between the two practices is myrcene levels (up to 508x less myrcene with kettle hop additions).

-The articles linked to below also show that some of the differences comes from yeast biotransformation; this is particularly where that delicious kettle hopped citra flavor comes from.


IBU estimations do not matter as much as you think they do. Pliny and Heady are well over the typical IBU targets that most homebrewers shoot for. Besides, the human palate is incapable of discerning bitterness over about 90 actual lab-tested IBUs. This fact has been tested time and time again, so the amount of bitterness that the human palate "perceives" from IBUs has its limitations.

You seem to think we're in disagreement on this point, I think we're in stark agreement on this one. I was attempting to state a nearly identical point, that IBUs are only one factor in perceived bitterness; my other point was that late hop and dry hop additions can increase perceived bitterness even if they don't increase IBUs.







The oils are not being transformed by the yeast to produce a different type of oil.
I'm afraid YOU'RE misinformed on this one. It IS newish science, though.
http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/j.2050-0416.2010.tb00428.x/pdf
http://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/jf1000524
http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1957/34093/Wolfe_thesis.pdf
Also covered in the Brewers Publications "Hop" book pretty well.

Geraniol gets transformed to Beta-Citronellol by yeast and produces that lovely "citra" flavor in late hopped citra beers that's somehow missing when you only dry hop.

Shocking, but true- And awesome!



Adam
 
"Myrcene is the primary compound associated with that citrusy, piney, floral, fruity character that we love in Pacific Northwest hops. Saying that you hate myrcene is basically like saying that you hate American IPAs, since just about every good AIPA has some citrusy, piney, floral, and/or fruity traits."

The flavors of Pacific NW hops I do enjoy, but the flavors that you're describing aren't generally attributed to myrcene; you're in a huge minority calling myrcene citrusy, piney, floral and fruity.

"Green, metallic, green hop aroma, herbaceous, resinous, balsamic" -these are all common flavor descriptors of myrcene.


As I like all those same hop varieties when used as late additions when myrcene levels in my pint glass are low but most of the other hop aromatic oils are still present in late/kettle additions and that would indicate that I'm fine with those hops in general, I just don't like getting punched in the throat with myrcene.

You've setup a myrcene flavor descriptor straw man and knocked it down, for sure; I'm just not so sure that it's fair to ascribe your flavor descriptors to myrcene; no one else does.


Adam
 
*Biertourist: Do you add any ADDITIONAL hops when you get the wort down to 140 and let it sit for 15 minutes? Also, have you experienced any contamination issues by letting it sit at 140 for 15 minutes?

Biertourist & ndinh: I noticed that you guys are talking about getting DMS in the beer after the boil if you didn't drop it below 140ish. I thought that the DMS was driven off during the boil? Can you expound on what you mean here?

Thanks again fellas!

No I don't add additional hops after it gets down to 140. No contamination issues but I cover the kettle after the 2 minutes my CFC takes to get the wort down to 140F.


DMS IS driven off during the boil, but at temps from (and I'm estimating from memory here) boiling down to 144F the DMS pre-cursor, SMM continues to create new DMS molecules. -So you want to boil off the DMS during the boil, and then rapidly chill down to below 144F before more SMM converts into DMS.

-You can pull the SMM / DMS-precursor levels in your basemalt from a detailed malt report and use that information to estimate whether you should possibly do a 90 minute boil using the estimates from the BrewSmith article linked to here somewhere.

In general lager and pilsner malts (lower kilning levels = more SMM; I'm sure certain barley varietals and climates create more SMM too but I don't have any rules-of-thumb for that) have the highest SMM levels and will therefore produce the most DMS and are when you need to be most careful.

Although I'm generally a "DMS denier" in that I question whether a 90 minute boil is ever needed for a 5 gallon home brew batch with a rolling boil, if I were going to be careful it would be when my grist was >90% Pilsner or lager malt. Doing a North German Pils with 100% German Pils malt? -Then a 90 minute boil is a best practice.

Adam
 
Sounds very similar to the polyphenol+protein chill haze complexes, but doesn't this reaction still require some basic balance between the proteins and polyphenols? -When you do late hopping or hop bursting you can add 4x the hops than you would on a normal schedule, are we not reacting with all the available wort proteins and still leaving plenty of hop-derived polyphenols behind?

Polyphenols combine with proteins in the un-oxidized state. These protein-tannin complexes formed with non-coagulable proteins cause chill-haze, because they are soluble in hot wort but precipitate in the cold, and since they are relatively light-weight, they will float and will not totally form sedimentation. Wort should be boiled well before adding hops, so polyphenols are eliminated in the hot break, thus reducing the chances of chill-haze development.

The oxidized tannin on the other hand, is called phlobaphene and they are extremely attracted to wort proteins. Phlobaphene-protein complexes are insoluble in water, therefore become solid after a good hot break. Later, these complexes are heavy enough to drop and form part of the trub.

Also with these massive late flame out additions, we're not boiling anymore, do these reactions even have time to fully occur in this situation?

You needn't be worried about unpleasant bitter hop compounds affecting your wort/beer if you add the hops below the point of isomerization. I never do massive flameout additions... only massive 160 F hopstands.


I find high myrcene VARIETIES of hops to be harsh tasting when young, especially when dry hopped -over time the harshness fades. It's definitely a well researched and logical conclusion to come to as a result that the flavor that I don't like is myrcene.

I find this hard to believe. Can you give some examples of the hops you've noticed extreme harshness from in the dryhop? I'm pretty sure you're the only person in the world who senses "Green, metallic, green hop aroma, herbaceous, resinous, balsamic" from a Citra & Amarillo dryhop.

whole hops can have up to 70% more myrcene than pellets of the same variety.

Yes, but that difference is flipped when the wort is hopped as only 5% of myrcene is extracted from whole hops compared to 17% from pellets.

Myrcene itself is not your friend regardless of it's high levels in many beloved raw American hops.

That is your opinion. I tend to favor high myrcene and high total oil content hops. High myrcene hops always have high total oil content. But high total oil content does not always mean high levels of Myrcene.

Examples:

Low Myrcene:

Saaz, Fuggles, East Kent Goldings, Hallertauer

High Myrcene:

Amarillo, Citra, Simcoe, Centennial, Nugget

High Total Oil Content:

Galaxy, Chinook, Summit, Apollo, Columbus


American Pacific NW Hops have (on average):

High Total Oil Content
Moderate to High Alpha Acids
High Myrcene
Low to Moderate Caryophyllene
Low Humulene
Low Farnesene

European Noble Hops have (on average):

Low Total Oil Content
Low Alpha Acids
Low Myrcene
Moderate to High Caryophyllene
High Humulene
High Farnesene

There is basically an opposite relationship in every category when you compare these two types of hop families.


The flavor differences between kettle hopping and dry hopping are well known and certainly some people prefer one vs. the other, but the literature is pretty clear that one of the MAJOR differences between the two practices is myrcene levels (up to 508x less myrcene with kettle hop additions).


Yes, it is obvious that hops added to wort above 167 F will contain less myrcene, considering that is the boil off rate of myrcene.

Nevertheless, you're interpreting the information the wrong way. Most top examples prefer to focus on both late kettle and dryhop additions. In fact, the dryhop is more imporant in the large majority of cases.

To prove it, just about every top rated IPA/IIPA out there relies on both late additions and dryhop additions.

Level of importance (1-4):

Dryhop = 1
Late = 2
Early = 3
Middle = 4

90-60 min - Early
45-20 min - Middle
15-0 min - Late (includes warm hopstands beyond 0 min)
5-12 days - Dryhop (includes multi-stage dryhops)

TOTAL RECIPE HOPS BY WEIGHT

Russian River Pliny the Elder
28% early (or hop extract)
14% middle
28% late
30% dryhop

Fat Head's Head Hunter
21% early
17% middle
28% late
34% dryhop

Ninkasi Tricerahops
19% early
12% middle
27% late
42% dryhop

Stone IPA
22% early
0% middle
44% late
34% dryhop

Kern Citra IIPA
13% early
8% middle
25% late
54% dryhop

Firestone Walker Union Jack
6% early
19% middle
31% late
44% dryhop

Alchemist Heady Topper
0% early (latest info is that no actual hops are boiled – only hop extract is used at this point at 10-15 ml per 5 gallon batch)
0% middle
43% late
57% dryhop

The articles linked to below also show that some of the differences comes from yeast biotransformation; this is particularly where that delicious kettle hopped citra flavor comes from.

I am very familiar with Citra. Citra is one of the highest myrcene content hops out there. In the kettle, Citra is more catty, grapefruity, pungent, less tropical, less fruity. In the dryhop, Citra is extremely juicy, tropical, and full of mango and lychee -- Here, the aroma is almost intoxicating and the flavor is very juice like.


I'm afraid YOU'RE misinformed on this one. It IS newish science, though.

Geraniol gets transformed to Beta-Citronellol by yeast and produces that lovely "citra" flavor in late hopped citra beers that's somehow missing when you only dry hop.

These articles contain quite a bit of information that I do not have the time to read right now. In the last link, they are not even using ale yeast; they are using lager yeast for the study.

I admit that yeast has flavor effects in American IPAs (moreso if you use something like Conan vs. WLP001), but something like WLP001/Cali Ale yeasts' effects on perceived juicyness, pineyness, citrus flavors, etc. are likely inconsequential. These flavors are primarily coming from the hops when using clean ale yeasts. Conan is a bit more characterful and peachy. But to label the yeast + hop relationship and transformation of Geraniol to Beta-Citronellol as the primary reason for pleasant flavor/aroma in an IPA is a bit ill-conceived.

"Myrcene is the primary compound associated with that citrusy, piney, floral, fruity character that we love in Pacific Northwest hops. Saying that you hate myrcene is basically like saying that you hate American IPAs, since just about every good AIPA has some citrusy, piney, floral, and/or fruity traits."

The flavors of Pacific NW hops I do enjoy, but the flavors that you're describing aren't generally attributed to myrcene; you're in a huge minority calling myrcene citrusy, piney, floral and fruity.

"Green, metallic, green hop aroma, herbaceous, resinous, balsamic" -these are all common flavor descriptors of myrcene.

As I like all those same hop varieties when used as late additions when myrcene levels in my pint glass are low but most of the other hop aromatic oils are still present in late/kettle additions and that would indicate that I'm fine with those hops in general, I just don't like getting punched in the throat with myrcene.

You've setup a myrcene flavor descriptor straw man and knocked it down, for sure; I'm just not so sure that it's fair to ascribe your flavor descriptors to myrcene; no one else does.

"Green, metallic, green hop aroma, herbaceous, resinous, balsamic" ...

Perhaps when isolated and concentrated in a Lab setting, but not when you consider the hop as a whole.

I'm pretty sure if you deconstructed a watermelon a chemical level in a lab, that the L-citrulline would taste like nothing, if not unpleasant on the palate. Yet this compound is extremely desireable and beneficial to the flavor of the watermelon as a whole... outside of the Lab.


See attached chart which describes myrcene as piney, citrusy, floral. I'm pretty sure that it is widely accepted that high myrcene content is beneficial, preferred, and pleasant in most of the West Coast American IPAs. More proof of this is that the most popular American IPA hops are all very high in Myrcene and Total Oil Content. It's hard to deny the correlation.

Beer Advocate Forum Poll

AMERICAN IPA HOPS

Out of 192 votes:

1st place = Centennial (30)
2nd place = Amarillo (28)
3rd place = Simcoe (27)
4th place = Citra & Cascade (21 each)
5th place = Columbus (19)
6th place = Chinook (15)
7th place = Warrior (10)
8th place = Magnum (9)
9th place = Mosaic (7)
10th place = Ahtanum & Palisade (6 each)
11th place = Nugget & Horizon (4 each)
12th place = Summit & Glacier (2 each)
13th place = Apollo & Belma (1 each)
14th place = Millennium & Galena (no votes)

hops_v1_12.jpg
 
Wow. This is one of the greatest HBT posts on hopping ever, bobbrews.

I want to keep arguing just to convince you to pull more information out of your head and add it to this thread! lol!

I'm not arguing that many of the most delicious hops don't have high myrcene levels, just that myrcene itself doesn't necessarily taste good and those same beers taste better as the myrcene levels fade through process or with a couple weeks of aging.

I'm starting to rethink that, but none of the statistics about the myrcene levels in the hop matter that much given myrcenes' high volatility and rapid decline under aging; -I'd love to see myrcene levels in actual finished beers but I don't know if anyone's got the data.



What else can I say that would convince you to add more amazing information to this thread?

-The commercial style %hop addition breakdown by addition information is an amazing view. I'd love to see the Heady Topper break down with the bittering levels from extract factored in. -The extract addition is factored in as bittering additions for Pliny but not for Heady. (Or is this looking at the old Pliny recipe when bittering hops were used and assuming that the same IBU numbers are just used today with hop extract usage? -I do think that's probably a pretty safe way to go either way.)


Bobbrews, please don't ever leave HBT; this type of conversation is SOO welcome!


Adam
 
I admit that yeast has flavor effects in American IPAs ... These flavors are primarily coming from the hops when using clean ale yeasts. Conan is a bit more characterful and peachy. But to label the yeast + hop relationship and transformation of Geraniol to Beta-Citronellol as the primary reason for pleasant flavor/aroma in an IPA is a bit ill-conceived.

When you get the time, finish reading "The Contribution of Geraniol Metabolism to the Citrus Flavor of Beer: Synergy of Geraniol and B-Citronellol Under Coexistence with Excell Linalool" because it disagrees with your statement above.

http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/j.2050-0416.2010.tb00428.x/pdf

The summary is pretty clear that it IS in fact biotransformation of Geraniol to B-Citronellol (and that transformation is driven by yeast; ale OR lager -we're not just talking about yeast-derived esters or alcohols combining with hop oils to change the flavor profile; we're talking about new concentrations of oils through biotransformation for example converting some of the Geraniol to B-Citronellol) and the resulting balance between Geraniol, B-Citronellol, and Linalool that creates many of those citrusy and lychee-flavors that we both have indicated that we like.

They have some very well designed and implemented tests in that study that indicate exactly that. As b-Citronellol isn't really found in high levels in any hop, it requires the presence of Geraniol in the wort and biotransformation by yeast. -You're not going to get much yeast action in traditional secondary dry hopping and certainly not at low temps or when using something like a torpedo (but you would get a lot of myrcene in a well handled and fresh beer that way-hmm maybe that harsh bitterness that I don't like in Torpedo Extra IPA really IS a load of myrcene; I'd love to mess around testing my sensitivity to various myrcene levels...), which should indicate that you're not going to end up with much b-Citronellol (and the characteristic citra flavors) in your pint glass that way.

It's not just a lager strain behavior either; see Gramatica, P., Manitto, P., Maria Ranzi, B., Delbianco, A. and Francavilla, M., Stereospecific reduction of geraniol to (R)-(+)- citronellol by Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Cellular and Molecular Life Sciences, 1982, 38(7), 775-776.


Totally agree that earlier additions of Citra can end up catty; been there done that- hate it. Kettle / whirlpool / hop stand additions, though - delicious! -Dry hop -hasn't resulted in that Zombie-dust-like delicate mango / lychee things I love in Citra beers.


Adam
 
I find this hard to believe. Can you give some examples of the hops you've noticed extreme harshness from in the dryhop? I'm pretty sure you're the only person in the world who senses "Green, metallic, green hop aroma, herbaceous, resinous, balsamic" from a Citra & Amarillo dryhop.

...
That is your opinion. I tend to favor high myrcene and high total oil content hops. High myrcene hops always have high total oil content. But high total oil content does not always mean high levels of Myrcene.

Yes, it is obvious that hops added to wort above 167 F will contain less myrcene, considering that is the boil off rate of myrcene.

"Green, metallic, green hop aroma, herbaceous, resinous, balsamic" ...

Perhaps when isolated and concentrated in a Lab setting, but not when you consider the hop as a whole.


There's that straw man again and again and again.

"Green, Metallic, Green hop aroma, herbaceous, resinous, balsalmic" -these ARE the standard flavor descriptors that are accepted for Myrcene. I'm talking about myrcene levels in beer, not in the hops themselves; the hops are great especially when used in a manner that minimizes myrcene in the actual pint glass or at least keeps them below the magical "harsh" threshold.

There are all sorts of much more potent and great tasting oils in all of the hops you've listed; the fact that myrcene comes along for the ride doesn't magically get rid of the other good flavors.

My theory is that there's a point at which myrcene levels become too intense and off-putting and just plain "harsh"; like most flavor threshold issues it likely varies from person to person. We don't like those hops BECAUSE OF MYRCENE, but rather in SPITE OF IT. Luckily myrcene is quite volatile and fades in hop processing, and aging and the earlier in the process they're used.

What's the latest and coldest temp at which you can add plenty of hop oils to the finished beer? -Torpedo additions? -There's a prime example of great tasting hop varieties resulting in harsh myrceny bitterness. I'm not saying those hop varieties aren't good, but that I'd like the beer better if less of that myrcene ended up in my glass. "Green, Metallic, balsalmic, herbaceous" -yep that's immediately what comes to mind as too intense in Torpedo Extra IPA.

I fully acknowledge that lots of people seem to LIKE that harsh myrcene green metallic flavor; my wife can't get enough of it, for example; I don't care for it.

Cohumulone has a bad rap for harsh bitterness; and myrcene generally a positive reputation, I think we got the evil twin and the good twin switched.

-Last few statements to REALLY stir the pot and hopefully conversation as a result.



Adam
 
Hey guys I just wanna thank you all for all of your responses. This has been very educational and interesting.

Also, bobbrews, I am wondering, what would you say your typical post boil schedule looks like for a nice hoppy IPA? In other words, what temperature do you steep at and how long do you steep for? Do you add any additional hops post boil?
 
bobbrews, I am wondering, what would you say your typical post boil schedule looks like for a nice hoppy IPA? In other words, what temperature do you steep at and how long do you steep for? Do you add any additional hops post boil?

From what I have recorded in written recipes, I've brewed 163 IPAs. Hands down, the best schedule/process is to add a decent amount of hop extract to a rolling boil (10-15 ml depending on the OG), no hops are actually boiled, and then finish with a ton of pellet hops when the wort is 160F. Hold it there for at least 30-45 min, then cool to the low 60s and ferment.

For the dryhop, a multi-stage drop is best. 4-5 day contact for each addition. Pull the old addition out before you add the new addition. The flavor and aroma will concentrate and intoxicate. Two to three additions should do it. The dryhop is where the majority of your IPAs total recipe hops (by weight) should be used... Figure 40-50%

Good luck.
 
Thanks again fellas for such great replies. I had a great brew day. I ended up adding 9 ounces of hops from 15 minutes to 0 minutes of the boil. I cut the flame and dropped the wort to 180F with an IC. I then added 4 more ounces of hops and let that steep for 30 minutes. The spare bedroom where the wort is fermenting smells like a hop explosion. I plan on dry hopping after about two weeks of fermentation with Amarillo and Citra.
 
From what I have recorded in written recipes, I've brewed 163 IPAs. Hands down, the best schedule/process is to add a decent amount of hop extract to a rolling boil (10-15 ml depending on the OG), no hops are actually boiled, and then finish with a ton of pellet hops when the wort is 160F. Hold it there for at least 30-45 min, then cool to the low 60s and ferment.

For the dryhop, a multi-stage drop is best. 4-5 day contact for each addition. Pull the old addition out before you add the new addition. The flavor and aroma will concentrate and intoxicate. Two to three additions should do it. The dryhop is where the majority of your IPAs total recipe hops (by weight) should be used... Figure 40-50%

Good luck.

I'm interested in maximizing hop flavor and aroma in my beers. Sounds like you have way more hoppy beer experience than I do. Let's say I want to make an IPA that is just really dripping with hop resin. How many ounces would you add to the 160F hop stand and how many ounces would you add, over how many additions in the dry hopping stage? Do you add dry hops to the primary at the end of fermentation?
 
Back
Top