Portable igloo cooler kegerator

[wantonsoup]

Great, glad I could help. My AIH 3gal kegs get here Wednesday so I'm really crossing my fingers they fit!

 

[wantonsoup]

The kegs fit easily - with no fittings. With connections on the kegs, we're about 1.5" too tall for the lid to close. Any solution?

 

[insanim8er]

The kegs fit easily - with no fittings. With connections on the kegs, we're about 1.5" too tall for the lid to close. Any solution?

Convert the posts to ball lock and save maybe an inch on the coupler. Might have to cut the lid.

 

[moose77]

Same here

 

[mrwizard0]

The kegs fit easily - with no fittings. With connections on the kegs, we're about 1.5" too tall for the lid to close. Any solution?

I saw some short pin lock posts http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=376_1_163&products_id=3254. They might be able to help make it fit. I dont have any so I really dont know if it will make enough of a difference for you.

 

[wantonsoup]

They seem to be only 11/16" shorter, which can help some but not all the way. Can you shorten the rubber 'feet' on the bottom of the keg to save an inch? Or I guess we can cut into the bottom of the cooler a little maybe? The lid is so thin I don't see much room to cut there.

 

[brewmasterorr]

I was able to fit them after adding the ball lock conversion kit. It's a tight fit. There are already sections of the lid hollowed out so I had to rotate the kegs so the post was in one of those spaces to fit.

 

[brewmasterorr]

I got a Coleman cooler from Lowes... It will fit the two pin locks but I converted to ball lock. Not sure if the pin lock posts would be too high....

I did warn you guys pin lock connections might not work....

 

[Jawbox0]

The kegs fit easily - with no fittings. With connections on the kegs, we're about 1.5" too tall for the lid to close. Any solution?

I made a wedge of 1x2 to go in the cooler, 2" in the front tapered tapering down the sides so the cooler closes at an angle. I've got my taps going through that, and then I just strap down the lid.

 

[wantonsoup]

I made a wedge of 1x2 to go in the cooler, 2" in the front tapered tapering down the sides so the cooler closes at an angle. I've got my taps going through that, and then I just strap down the lid.

Ooh sounds interesting - can you post a pic? I'm all about to order conversion kits and new disconnect and all that so this sounds much cheaper

Otherwise, I plan on converting to ball lock and going with barb disconnects, that should get me the 1.5" as you mentioned. Looks like going MFL adds about 1/2".

I'm also wondering about using a heat gun on the base and smooshing the kegs down to make a deep impression. This is off the top of my head, not a plan yet.

 

[Jawbox0]

Ooh sounds interesting - can you post a pic? I'm all about to order conversion kits and new disconnect and all that so this sounds much cheaper

Otherwise, I plan on converting to ball lock and going with barb disconnects, that should get me the 1.5" as you mentioned. Looks like going MFL adds about 1/2".

I'm also wondering about using a heat gun on the base and smooshing the kegs down to make a deep impression. This is off the top of my head, not a plan yet.

This is what I did, I made this in about 20 minutes from something else I had laying around, but it gets the job done.

I also insulated the inside, I'm not sure it was necessary, but it will keep ice for 48 hours with two kegs and a paintball CO2.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

I'm also wondering about using a heat gun on the base and smooshing the kegs down to make a deep impression. This is off the top of my head, not a plan yet.[/QUOTE]


I don't think you'll get the desired results with your heat gun.

Maybe, if it were plastic, but the rubber bases, ( if that's what they are), probably won't deform with the heat, as they are probably "vulcanized", like a tire.

I bet they will smolder with a heat gun though..............


Edit: DOH! I re-read.........You were talkin' about the cooler...........Give it hell!

 

[wantonsoup]

Yep, reshape the cooler bottom

 

[wantonsoup]

I've measured and the bottom is 1.5" thick. Swap to ball valve, impress the bottom a bit, and we should be all good. Might try it tonight.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

I don't think you'll do it.............

 

[GonZolaB]

L

 

[dsdr]

fyi...noticed this on sale which seemed like a good deal from Keg Conn. normally for 99.95 apparently. "The Kit Includes: A new 20oz CO2 cylinder (empty) Single gauge CO2 Regulator CO2 Hose set up with a shutoff check valve, beer hoses setup, fully assembled with ball lock disconnects, party faucet, and Ready to use."

04-2013 Hydo Close-Out! Basic Ball Lock Keg Kit w/ a 20oz Pin Valve CO2 Cylinder $59.95

I'm going to go the safe route and buy the 2.5 Gal AIH kegs though it pains me for $59.95 each. It's still a good deal I think.

 

[wantonsoup]

Thanks for the heads up - ordering that now. Perfect for my application and saves me money over the setup I'm looking at.

 

[Bradyfumbled]

I made a trip to Lowes this morning to pick up the Coleman everyone's been talking about. It took some Tetris-playing with the ball lock connects and the beer line, had to get them to line up with the divots in the lid, but I got it to close with my 3 gallon kegs. If a gas line was attached it wouldn't close, but I use a portable CO2 cartridge charger anyhow, I'll just disconnect it and reattach when it needs a charge.

Long-term, I'm thinking a tower on the lid with some "strategically" drilled holes for the full time gas-connections. In the meantime, picnic taps and opening the lid every time is fine by me. Also keeps the ice chest intact.

 

[Bradyfumbled]

Here's the kegs inside.

 

[dsdr]

If the keg and the rest comes in on Friday then I may be able to get mine together. I did go the 2.5 gal route, which in all honesty should be fine. If so, I'll snap a few pics. I may just be able to recycle a few pictures of the other 1000 posts prior...who would know lol.

Sidenote: Out of curiosity, has anyone created a tap tower that extends yet? I would think 2-3 sections of tubing PVC or otherwise, of different widths fitting inside one another fitting near the kegs (if it could fit). As you pull it up it pulls up the hose at the same time. Each section could be locked in place with a twist possibly (notch and pin?). Would reduce the work leaning over getting a beer. Advantages would be easier storage, more stealth appearance (like me going onto a beach that doesn't allow alcohol), and with the hole through the top, you can create a custom cap and your cooler is still unmodified below the lid. Don't ask me to attempt it as I'm okay on ideas but not very good with follow-through lol

 

[atli126]

awesome!

 

[Helly]

Well I paid $1000 for all of those plus 2 of the same keg in 5 gallon size. But then I bought the rest of his 5 gallon kegs as well as a bunch of regulators and manifolds and y splitters (both primary and secondary) I think I paid $1450 for everything.

Then I resold a lot of it. I kept all the 5 gal and I still have 13 of the 3 gal and a few regulators/manifolds.

So bottom line is I made a bunch of money off it and still have a bunch of free gear.

I also split some of the dual primary regulators (turned them back into single) and made the other bodies into Portable regulators
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Can you explain or show the parts you used to connect the paintball pin valve adapter to the regulator? Thanks!


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[Helly]

Here was mine... A 10-gallon cooler for 3-gallon kegs. The before and after with the parts and assembled. This one has enough room for ice to keep it cold for a couple of days. I may do a 5-gallon cooler later that can hold a 2.5-gallon kegs for when I don't need a lot of ice to keep it cold for more than a few hours.

What regulator are you using? Is it working well?


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[insanim8er]

Can you explain or show the parts you used to connect the paintball pin valve adapter to the regulator? Thanks!

You can use this for any regulator http://www.homebrewing.org/The-Adapter-CO2-regulator-to-Paintball-Tank-Adapter_p_1122.html

I used that for a bit, but I wanted it more compact. I have regulators that have regular threads vs LH. So I used a regulator I had with no nipple on yet (the part that connects to a tank) I got a 1/4" reducer to 1/8" then a 2" pipe at 1/8" and connected it up to a universal fill adapter. It works great.

If you have LH threads, you need to get a LH 1/4" reducer to standard thread 1/8" to connect to the fill adapter. I'm not sure if they make those or not.

 

[Helly]

You can use this for any regulator http://www.homebrewing.org/The-Adapter-CO2-regulator-to-Paintball-Tank-Adapter_p_1122.html

I used that for a bit, but I wanted it more compact. I have regulators that have regular threads vs LH. So I used a regulator I had with no nipple on yet (the part that connects to a tank) I got a 1/4" reducer to 1/8" then a 2" pipe at 1/8" and connected it up to a universal fill adapter. It works great.

If you have LH threads, you need to get a LH 1/4" reducer to standard thread 1/8" to connect to the fill adapter. I'm not sure if they make those or not.

Thanks! After I wrote that I found the other thread where you were discussing that piece a little more. Good info, I appreciate it.


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[pvpeacock]

FYI Cheap 3 gallon kegs are available if you don't mind the loose top or bottom. Only $29.99 each. Yes, they are pin lock, but they also sell pin to ball lock conversion kits for around $10 and new lids with pressure relief valves for $15.99. I just bought two to make my own rolling cooler.
http://www.homebrewing.org/3-Gal-Loose-HandleBottom-Pin-Lock-Keg-Used_p_4678.html

 

[brewmasterorr]

FYI there are a few different conversion kits depending on the brand of keg.... You should get the kegs first then order the correct posts. I ended up ordering from http://www.cornykeg.com/index.asp?category=29144

 

[wantonsoup]

Homebrewing.org lets you specify that you want Cornelius brand kegs, thus you can buy the conversion kits at the same time and save on shipping, fyi.

 

[pvpeacock]

Just got my two 3 gallon pin lock kegs ($29.99 each), 2 pin lock to ball lock conversion kits ($10 each) and 2 new lids with pressure relief valves ($15.99 each) from Homebrewing.org. They arrived pressurized, so I knew they were usable. The kegs were dirty (still had orange soda in them which I discovered when I went to depressurize them!), but were in great shape overall. No loose handles or rubber bottoms. Both kegs were Firestone's and the conversion kits worked perfectly as did the new lids. Now for less than $56 each, I have two 3gallon ball lock kegs with pressure relief valves! Now all I need is to buy the cooler and rest of the gear to make my portable kegerator. Can't wait.