plastic cooler as mash tun -HBS vs hardware store

[kh54s10]

After this discussion, I was curious about the 'false bottom' setup. I thought originally that the stainless steel false bottoms from HBS stores were good; then I saw the setup of IslandLizard which was graciously shared; now I run across several DIY setups that use those steel mesh supply lines, where you remove the inner plastic tubing and there is your screen. I ask because can one get a decent filtration and flow from using one of these as the 'false bottom?' it seems simple enough to set up, but I don't know if anyone has used this and would recommend for or against. Thanks

I use one made from a water heater supply line. It is bigger in diameter than toilet or sink lines and much heavier. I have never had a stuck sparge and can bash it all I want with the mash paddle and not damage it. Smaller ones can collapse.

But it is only good if you are going to batch sparge. If you want to fly sparge you need a false bottom of manifold to prevent channeling. That is when the sparge water takes a more or less direct line to the outlet leaving most of the grain unwashed.

 

[IslandLizard]

After this discussion, I was curious about the 'false bottom' setup. I thought originally that the stainless steel false bottoms from HBS stores were good; then I saw the setup of IslandLizard which was graciously shared; now I run across several DIY setups that use those steel mesh supply lines, where you remove the inner plastic tubing and there is your screen. I ask because can one get a decent filtration and flow from using one of these as the 'false bottom?' it seems simple enough to set up, but I don't know if anyone has used this and would recommend for or against. Thanks

Yes, those stainless braids are fine to use for mash filters. The thicker, beefier material, the better they'll withstand the weight of the wet grist above and the unintentional but unavoidable hits from the mash paddle.

 

[kh54s10]

I see the pictures where people make a circle using a t fitting using sink supply lines and wonder why. There seems no reason to go wimpy. And no reason to circle the bottom of the tun.

 

[wilserbrewer]

I see the pictures where people make a circle using a t fitting using sink supply lines and wonder why. There seems no reason to go wimpy. And no reason to circle the bottom of the tun.

Agreed...Denny claims not much difference b/w using a stubby 6” length of braid vs a longer and more complex arrangement.

Fluid dynamics supports that most of the fluid enters near the bulkhead anyway, being the path of least resistance.

Same holds true for manifolds to some extent. Never been a fan of manifolds in rectangular coolers, imo typical grain bed depths are too shallow for fly sparging anyhow, but they make a nice picture and likely give satisfaction to the builder...

Ime a braid and batch sparging is so simple to execute and works so well, no need to look further...opinions vary of course.

Watch out for the fake plastic braids that some big box stores sell, they actually look like stainless but don’t work well at all. Stainless braid is very fine wire, the plastic is much coarser.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/imposter-plastic-braids.122648/