Quantcast

PID Question - Manual, vs Auto vs Manual Inhibit

HomeBrewTalk.com - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Community.

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

arla

Active Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2015
Messages
44
Reaction score
5
The first two seem obvious,

Manual - You choose the power setting
Auto - System does it all

What does Manual Inhibit do? I know the IPB-16 comes pre-defaulted to Manual Inhibit and I don't know if I need to change this (or not).
 

brumateur1

Active Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2018
Messages
42
Reaction score
17
"Manual Inhibits" means that switching to manual mode is disabled. You can enable switching through settings menu.
 
OP
A

arla

Active Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2015
Messages
44
Reaction score
5
Not using it to control a boil, my last Mash got terrible efficiency (read around 50% I think, maybe even less) and the main change in my brew process recently has been using a RIMS system, so I wondered if this had somehow caused it (I did however use it as an excuse to replace my corona mill with a decent grain mill). Since I'm now using the IPB-16 for my RIMS I figured I should probably spend a little more time figuring out all the settings (and the manual is not clear).

I think I'll run an AutoTune before my next brew just to check the PID settings (and make sure the temperature matches to what I expect) but outside of that, I have to assume the PID didn't cause any of this.
 

augiedoggy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2013
Messages
10,261
Reaction score
2,257
Location
North Tonawanda NY
if the flow is too high on the rims you'll get channeling which can account for efficiency loss... too little flow and you get boiling in the rims tube which denatures enzymes and causes efficiency loss as well.
 
OP
A

arla

Active Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2015
Messages
44
Reaction score
5
It could have been channeling, at the time my rims output is/was just the tube back into the cooler mash-tun, I got a CIP ball few days ago to hopefully improve that. I don't (yet) fly-sparge, it's still batch effectively, but could have caused some channeling with the output from RIMS, will watch my output valve.
 

augiedoggy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2013
Messages
10,261
Reaction score
2,257
Location
North Tonawanda NY
It could have been channeling, at the time my rims output is/was just the tube back into the cooler mash-tun, I got a CIP ball few days ago to hopefully improve that. I don't (yet) fly-sparge, it's still batch effectively, but could have caused some channeling with the output from RIMS, will watch my output valve.
I'm not sure I follow? your not going to use the sprayball to output wort from the rims are you? that would require high flow and certianly result in channeling if it even works, also it would oxidize the wort pretty bad which is no longer a popular thing... sparge arms that sprinkle onto grainbed are for fly sparging not for recirculation or even batch sparging.. zero benefit. disadvantages actually although the folks selling the fancey sparge arms wont tell you that. I use a regular piece of silicone hose set to deposit the wort back onto the top of the grainbed.
 
OP
A

arla

Active Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2015
Messages
44
Reaction score
5
I guess then do you avoid channeling just by pointing the hose at the side wall of the tun and/or the flow rate being super slow. I guess I figured the CIP ball would help break up the flow thus stopping any potential channeling.
 

Smellyglove

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 17, 2013
Messages
2,807
Reaction score
800
Where do you monitor your temperature? You should have one probe right on the output of the rims, and one inside the mash for good control.
 
OP
A

arla

Active Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2015
Messages
44
Reaction score
5
The RIMS temp probe is right pretty much at the tip of the heating element (not quite touching).

I didn't have this issue my first RIMS mash, so I guess it could easily be channeling that I was better at avoiding the first time.

This shows the basic setup (I wasn't running it here)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JFSSvi4orNST76bL2

Basic flow is

Mash Tun -> Chugger
Chugger -> Valve
Valve -> RIMS (with probe on side, and wort coming out the top)
RIMS -> Mash Tun
 

augiedoggy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2013
Messages
10,261
Reaction score
2,257
Location
North Tonawanda NY
I guess then do you avoid channeling just by pointing the hose at the side wall of the tun and/or the flow rate being super slow. I guess I figured the CIP ball would help break up the flow thus stopping any potential channeling.
I use the hose as you describe. this creates a swirling level of liquid at all times on top of the grain bed.
 
OP
A

arla

Active Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2015
Messages
44
Reaction score
5
Since you do that, do you put the hose actually into the water, or have it spray onto the edge or...
 

augiedoggy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2013
Messages
10,261
Reaction score
2,257
Location
North Tonawanda NY
Since you do that, do you put the hose actually into the water, or have it spray onto the edge or...
always into the liquid layer which is already on top of the grainbed. otherwise your aerating and oxidizing the wort before the boil which is bad.
 
Top