PID Question - Manual, vs Auto vs Manual Inhibit

[arla]

The first two seem obvious,

Manual - You choose the power setting
Auto - System does it all

What does Manual Inhibit do? I know the IPB-16 comes pre-defaulted to Manual Inhibit and I don't know if I need to change this (or not).

 

[brumateur1]

"Manual Inhibits" means that switching to manual mode is disabled. You can enable switching through settings menu.

 

[augiedoggy]

Are you using this to control a boil? if not dont worry about it.

 

[arla]

Not using it to control a boil, my last Mash got terrible efficiency (read around 50% I think, maybe even less) and the main change in my brew process recently has been using a RIMS system, so I wondered if this had somehow caused it (I did however use it as an excuse to replace my corona mill with a decent grain mill). Since I'm now using the IPB-16 for my RIMS I figured I should probably spend a little more time figuring out all the settings (and the manual is not clear).

I think I'll run an AutoTune before my next brew just to check the PID settings (and make sure the temperature matches to what I expect) but outside of that, I have to assume the PID didn't cause any of this.

 

[augiedoggy]

if the flow is too high on the rims you'll get channeling which can account for efficiency loss... too little flow and you get boiling in the rims tube which denatures enzymes and causes efficiency loss as well.

 

[arla]

It could have been channeling, at the time my rims output is/was just the tube back into the cooler mash-tun, I got a CIP ball few days ago to hopefully improve that. I don't (yet) fly-sparge, it's still batch effectively, but could have caused some channeling with the output from RIMS, will watch my output valve.

 

[augiedoggy]

It could have been channeling, at the time my rims output is/was just the tube back into the cooler mash-tun, I got a CIP ball few days ago to hopefully improve that. I don't (yet) fly-sparge, it's still batch effectively, but could have caused some channeling with the output from RIMS, will watch my output valve.

I'm not sure I follow? your not going to use the sprayball to output wort from the rims are you? that would require high flow and certianly result in channeling if it even works, also it would oxidize the wort pretty bad which is no longer a popular thing... sparge arms that sprinkle onto grainbed are for fly sparging not for recirculation or even batch sparging.. zero benefit. disadvantages actually although the folks selling the fancey sparge arms wont tell you that. I use a regular piece of silicone hose set to deposit the wort back onto the top of the grainbed.

 

[arla]

I guess then do you avoid channeling just by pointing the hose at the side wall of the tun and/or the flow rate being super slow. I guess I figured the CIP ball would help break up the flow thus stopping any potential channeling.

 

[Smellyglove]

Where do you monitor your temperature? You should have one probe right on the output of the rims, and one inside the mash for good control.

 

[arla]

The RIMS temp probe is right pretty much at the tip of the heating element (not quite touching).

I didn't have this issue my first RIMS mash, so I guess it could easily be channeling that I was better at avoiding the first time.

This shows the basic setup (I wasn't running it here)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JFSSvi4orNST76bL2

Basic flow is

Mash Tun -> Chugger
Chugger -> Valve
Valve -> RIMS (with probe on side, and wort coming out the top)
RIMS -> Mash Tun

 

[augiedoggy]

I guess then do you avoid channeling just by pointing the hose at the side wall of the tun and/or the flow rate being super slow. I guess I figured the CIP ball would help break up the flow thus stopping any potential channeling.

I use the hose as you describe. this creates a swirling level of liquid at all times on top of the grain bed.

 

[arla]

Since you do that, do you put the hose actually into the water, or have it spray onto the edge or...

 

[augiedoggy]

Since you do that, do you put the hose actually into the water, or have it spray onto the edge or...

always into the liquid layer which is already on top of the grainbed. otherwise your aerating and oxidizing the wort before the boil which is bad.