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PID Cycle time help...

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Yes, I understand your system is working. I was hoping for an explanation of what you meant by no pulsing. I just bought the same controller and from what I see it should always be pulsing the output...

If you have boiled with it, you will see what pulsing is. It is the pulsing of the boil, obviously the power pulses. We are talking about the boil being vigorous, then not, then vigorous, then not... because of an inappropriately set cycle time.
 
Pol,

I have a question about the PID with the SSR. When you say you set it to 60%, is the PID adjusting the output voltage to 60% of total, so out of your 5500 watt element, you're then getting 3300 watts?

Or is it at 100% power on for a period of time and off for a period of time?

Sorry if this question is rudimentary....

drost
 
Its cool Drost...

It is cycle time... SO you are 100% POWER, for 60% of the time. Effectively giving you 3300W.

There is no resistance type switch here, it is simply ON and OFF. So I have a 1 second cycle time.

60% of that ONE second the element is ON, and 40% of that ONE second the element is OFF.

Clearer?
 
Its cool Drost...

It is cycle time... SO you are 100% POWER, for 60% of the time. Effectively giving you 3300W.

There is no resistance type switch here, it is simply ON and OFF. So I have a 1 second cycle time.

60% of that ONE second the element is ON, and 40% of that ONE second the element is OFF.

Clearer?

Thanks Pol...

That's what I thought was happening, but just wanted to verify. With the PID that you have, did you have to program it, or is it already set to do that?

I basically have an older PID controller that has a minimum of a 5 second cycle time....it's really not getting the job done for the boil pot.

Thanks for the info! I've enjoyed reading your posts.

drost
 
I experimented with different cycle times, and yeah, 5 seconds will cause a lot of pulsing as you lower the % on ratio.

My PID is from Auber, the part # is in my materials list in the OP of "Bling Bling Electric HERMS Conversion"

It has both MANUAL and AUTO mode already, and manual mode is simply % output. You crank it up to 100% to reach a boil, and then turn it down to 60% to 65% to maintain it.

It is already capable of doing it, I just had to reset my cycle time.
 
Pol,

I finally got the Auber PID incorporated into the system and that thing ROCKS! I'm using it in manual mode only, and have to say that their customer service seems to be fantastic too. I sent them a question via email this morning and had a response within 10 minutes.

Can't wait to brew with this thing!

Thanks for pointing me in that direction....

drost
 
Pol,

I finally got the Auber PID incorporated into the system and that thing ROCKS! I'm using it in manual mode only, and have to say that their customer service seems to be fantastic too. I sent them a question via email this morning and had a response within 10 minutes.

Can't wait to brew with this thing!

Thanks for pointing me in that direction....

drost

Glad to help.
 
Does setting the P=0 and t=1 create more stress for the SSRs or PID? I know it's an on/off type of relay, but it seems turning off and on every second could cause them to wear down quicker... thoughts??
 

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