New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

Williams 728
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beervoid said:
I tried it and still got blowoffs, some of those british strains dont give a f about antifoam hehe.
Lower ferm temps do help though
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So far i've yet to have an issue, and I don't always have a ton of headspace. I'm sure it'll happen at some point though. I've got my IPAs going with a little pressure now though, which will also suppress foaming.
 
Simet(h)icone in all its forms (doesn't have to be Fermcap) is also useful insurance against any upset that might be caused by getting boiling wort all over the kitchen.

My homebrew "career" almost ended after brew 1...
 
How long do you wait for the hops and the kettle trub to settle out before transferring to the fermentation tank?
The hops seem to settle within 10 minutes while the proteins take a lot more time. (Using protafloc)

Normally I just wait 10 min and then transfering everything except the lower 0.5 gal, which hopefully leaves all the hops and some of the proteins.
 
Any you noticed a drop in brew house efficiency after switching to spelt malt?
My dropped consistently 10 percentage point over the last two brews.
 
R.A.I.D said:
Any you noticed a drop in brew house efficiency after switching to spelt malt?
My dropped consistently 10 percentage point over the last two brews.
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Couple possibilities, you need to reduce your crush size for the spelt to about.030.

Spelt (wheat in general) also has a DI pH value of about 6.1 so you need to acidify your mash more when using wheat then you ordinarily would. Mash Made Easy predicts this accurately

Wheat also gelatinizes at a higher temp than barley so you can mitigate that to some extent by doing a long slow sparge (45-60 mins) with 170F acidified sparge water

So the drop in efficiency is probably a combination of all those things working against you

I brewed with 20% spelt this past weekend and hit 1.080 at 73% brewhouse efficiency doing all those things, which was actually higher than my predicted 68% for an OG that high.
 
ThatVideoKid said:
What did your hotside schedule look like?
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For this batch with cosmic punch, I went with:

Mash Hops: 3oz cascade
Boil Hops: 0.5oz Columbus at 15, 10, and 5 min and 0.5oz cascade at 5min (2oz total in boil)
HopSteep/Whirlpool: 155 degree temps; 1oz Columbus & 1oz Cascade at 45minutes, 1oz Columbus & 1oz Cascade at 30 minutes.(4oz total for hop steep).

I honestly wasn't sure how much hops to mash with so this seemed like a "middle of the road" amount. Put them in 20minutes into the mash (90minute mash total).

The hydrometer sample after FG had a nice earth and little dankness to it that I like along with surprisingly more citrus/tropical than I was expecting with the citrus/tropical hitting the palate first followed by the depth of the earthy type character. Ive used this hop combo hot side before but on a different schedule with different yeast before and it wasn't this tropical with these hops. Got the idea for the hop combo from one of @Dgallo brews and I think its a really nice combo as a "base" which allows you to DH however you want depending on the profile you are going for. This hot side hop combo also seemed to be perfect for cosmic punch based on what Ive read for "thiol driving".
 
R.A.I.D said:
Any you noticed a drop in brew house efficiency after switching to spelt malt?
My dropped consistently 10 percentage point over the last two brews.
Click to expand...
wow 10 points is a lot. I have not experienced this type of drop myself but considering spelt malt is huskless (at least what I have - bestmaltz) and in the wheat family, I bring rice hulls to the party to help out AND I take my time with the "manual" poor man's fly sparging i.e. pouring spare water 1 qt at a time to keep about 1inch liquid above the grain bed. With about ~18% spelt comprising my grain bill Im averaging about 78% mash/lauter efficiency overall.

EDIT: I also have my grain mill set to .030" to ensure a good grain crush for wheat and/or spelt.
 
Noob_Brewer said:
wow 10 points is a lot. I have not experienced this type of drop myself but considering spelt malt is huskless (at least what I have - bestmaltz) and in the wheat family, I bring rice hulls to the party to help out AND I take my time with the "manual" poor man's fly sparging i.e. pouring spare water 1 qt at a time to keep about 1inch liquid above the grain bed. With about ~18% spelt comprising my grain bill Im averaging about 78% mash/lauter efficiency overall.
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It may not be a true drop in efficiency. Your program may not have the correct yield potential set for spelt grain. Should be around 35ppg Could even be less. Oats are a 32ppg, I believe.
 
Anyone here tried to dip hop their beers either in addition to or in replacement of the whirlpool?
Had a local WCIPA that was dip hopped and it was exceptional. Ekuanot incognito & mosaic cryo.
Might give it a go in an all strata hazy this weekend..
 
Fergal said:
Looks like Get Er Brewed are an affiliated distributer of the J Haas stuff too going by their youtube video.
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The Malt Miller in the UK (no affiliation other than as customer) seem to lead the way on retail versions of these kinds of thing - they had Incognito at the last in-person Brewcon nearly 2 years ago. And eg they have stuff like Brewtan, and Nectaron (except currently out of stock, presumably will have some once the new harvest arrives). They are typically a bit more expensive than GEB but eg have HBC472 in Incognito which GEB don't, and their pack sizes on Spectrum are a more wallet-friendly 15ml not 50ml.
 
Curious about what fermentor y’all use for these beers? And what would be a worthy purchase for these beers.

I’ve had good success fermenting in 10g kegs but I’m looking to upgrade as a gift to myself. Im thinking about the grainfather conical - I really like that it’s jacketed and also has very few parts for easy cleaning and simplicity. Whats Holding me back is it’s not rated for pressure. I’ve really relied on a few PSI to ensure I have a good deal, closed cold crash and closed transfers, previously I had an anvil bucket fermenter and had a bunch of trouble trying to pressure transfer and prevent suckback through the leaky lid (even with a co2 bruloon trick). So can I make greatcersions Of these beers without a pressure rated FV?

The Fermonster, like dgallo uses would be a nice side step for me but can’t dump yeast trub and I question it’s durability. A spike conical seems nice but that extra hassle of cleaning all those parts or dealing with a CIP pump seems like a hassle.
 
ThatVideoKid said:
Increase it.

Foam retention proteins can only been used once, so the less foam produced in the production of the beer, the more proteins available for head retention in the finished product.
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Do you have literature to support this? I’ve done quite a bit of research on head retention over the years and cant say I’ve ever heard that.
 
ihavenonickname said:
The Fermonster, like dgallo uses would be a nice side step for me but can’t dump yeast trub and I question it’s durability. A spike conical seems nice but that extra hassle of cleaning all those parts or dealing with a CIP pump seems like a hassle.
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You can always get a second fermonster, purge it and then close transfer to it. You’ll get it off the trub after the softcrash and then dryhop in that one. - just a thought if you go that route.

on durability, I wouldn’t be concerned. I’ve had 2 of my fermonsters for probably 3.5-4 years with out any issue. Use not abrasive sponge and keep metal out of it. Other than that, don’t be a barbarian and slam it around lol
 
Dgallo said:
Do you have literature to support this? I’ve done quite a bit of research on head retention over the years and cant say I’ve ever heard that.
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I’ll try to find the source on it.

The gist though is that once the bubble forms, the LTP1 changes it’s structure and doesn’t go back into solution the same way as before. It’s often deposited on the sides of the fermenter, and in the glass as lacing.
 
It may be less that they can only be used once, and more that more will make it to the finished product if you aren’t losing it to the walls of the FV and BK.
 
ThatVideoKid said:
It may be less that they can only be used once, and more that more will make it to the finished product if you aren’t losing it to the walls of the FV and BK.
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Gotcha. I’ll see what I can find today. What I remember reading about LTP1 is that they are smaller branch chain proteins that help in foam formation and the proteinase produced by the yeast during fermentation will degrade. Once it’s degraded it forms positive attractions to larger protein chains and as the molecular weight increases, they will be pulled out of suspension. Because of this phenomenon, it’s very important to leave the most trub out of the fermenter as possible. Also, would suggest the importance of using whirlfloc (or similar).
 
Dgallo said:
Do you have literature to support this? I’ve done quite a bit of research on head retention over the years and cant say I’ve ever heard that.
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I remember Bamforth talking about it on the Brewing Network a couple few years ago. Don't remember what show, probably the Session or Brew Strong. Or both.
 
marc1 said:
I remember Bamforth talking about it on the Brewing Network a couple few years ago. Don't remember what show, probably the Session or Brew Strong. Or both.
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Thank you. I’ll do some searching. If anyone is going to know the specific reaction with malt compounds it will certainly be Bamforth
 
Northern_Brewer said:
The Malt Miller in the UK (no affiliation other than as customer) seem to lead the way on retail versions of these kinds of thing - they had Incognito at the last in-person Brewcon nearly 2 years ago. And eg they have stuff like Brewtan, and Nectaron (except currently out of stock, presumably will have some once the new harvest arrives). They are typically a bit more expensive than GEB but eg have HBC472 in Incognito which GEB don't, and their pack sizes on Spectrum are a more wallet-friendly 15ml not 50ml.
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GEB charging €32 for a 50ml vial is nuts. Any idea how many grams in T90 pellets is to 50ml of Spectrum?
 
aaronm13 said:
GEB charging €32 for a 50ml vial is nuts. Any idea how many grams in T90 pellets is to 50ml of Spectrum?
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IIRC, it is roughly 8-10 oz of t90 per 1 oz of spectrum. So if you use 9 as an average, 50 ml would be about 15 oz of hops.

**edit**
it’s actual 5-8 oz of t90 to 1 oz of spectrum so it’s roughly 10.5oz of t90 to 50 ml of spectrum.

here’s a spec sheet
3A607E34-2F52-44FE-842A-73C89EBF907C.jpeg
 
Dgallo said:
IIRC, it is roughly 8-10 oz of t90 per 1 oz of spectrum. So if you use 9 as an average, 50 ml would be about 15 oz of hops.

**edit**
it’s actual 5-8 oz of t90 to 1 oz of spectrum so it’s roughly 10.5oz of t90 to 50 ml of spectrum.

here’s a spec sheet View attachment 740318
Click to expand...
Thanks for that data sheet. So from the same supplier GEB in Ireland 10.5oz of citra is €25 and the 50ml of Citra Spectrum is €32 so not as bad as I first thought considering you'll get more beer at the end. Might have to try it sometime.
 
From memory when Malt Miller first started doing Incognito they were pricing it as a 20-25% premium to the equivalent hops, I worked it out on this thread back when it came out, presumably a bit before Brewcon 2019 which ISTR was their "official" launch of it although it had been on the website for a few weeks before then.
 
Do you reckon spectrum & incognito would make any difference at the home brew level? Most of these things seem to be designed just for yield or do you think there would be an improvement over pellets?
 
I have a new CF5 and am trying to dial in my process using a conical. Especially how the best way to handle soft crashing post ferment then DH. I am struggling with dumping all the yeast out, concerned about the hops sinking and how much rousting with co2 I need to do.

Would anyone be willing to PM me that is a spike conical user that is using these same neipa methods we all use in the thread. I would just like to here about how your process goes using these conicals to make NEIPA’s.
 
nick sekerak said:
I have a new CF5 and am trying to dial in my process using a conical. Especially how the best way to handle soft crashing post ferment then DH. I am struggling with dumping all the yeast out, concerned about the hops sinking and how much rousting with co2 I need to do.

Would anyone be willing to PM me that is a spike conical user that is using these same neipa methods we all use in the thread. I would just like to here about how your process goes using these conicals to make NEIPA’s.
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I used to transfer to a dry hop keg but I am going to try DH in my conical fermenter this time. My plan is to chill the fermented beer to 12C/54F. 36 hours after hitting this temperature I will add 125g/4oc DH through a counter flow of co2. No agitation. Then after 24 h I will add another 125g/4oc DH. Again 48 h later I will start cold crash. And then transferring to fermentation purged serving keg with the last 50g/2oc DH.
 
R.A.I.D said:
I used to transfer to a dry hop keg but I am going to try DH in my conical fermenter this time. My plan is to chill the fermented beer to 12C/54F. 36 hours after hitting this temperature I will add 125g/4oc DH through a counter flow of co2. No agitation. Then after 24 h I will add another 125g/4oc DH. Again 48 h later I will start cold crash. And then transferring to fermentation purged serving keg with the last 50g/2oc DH.
Click to expand...

That’s pretty close to what I am trying. I soft crash to 50F for 3days dump yeast twice during the soft crash. I feel there is still some in there but two dumps is one gallon so I cannot afford to lose any more.Then I use a hop doser to purge and drop the pellets into the brew for DH #1 still holding temp at 50F. I will let that sit 48hrs. Then dump and add the DH#2 for another 48hrs. I have a sight glass below the cone and it fills up with the hops/yeast completely after about 24hrs.

Question should I try rousing the hops to try any get them back in suspension? I am worried because that will also shoot the yeast back up in suspension too. Wouldn’t that be bad, what’s the best thing to do?
 
It depends on what yeast you’re using when it comes to soft crashing. Some will take their time, other’s won’t. It’s something you just need to pay attention to and maybe try different times and temperatures.

I’m sure just about everyone is using some sort of 1318 variant. It floccs pretty well. After ferment is done you can just set your temp to 55. Depending on how you’re cooling 24 hours is really all you need. Harvest yeast (reuse it, don’t dump it) and add hops. There’s plenty of info now that says 24 hours is all you need. Extraction happens really fast. Pretty sure the brewery that won alpha king and GABF for hazy double ipa last year removes hops after 24 hours. (Burke Gilman). You can leave for longer if you want or add another dose of hops. Now start crashing and wait maybe 48 and slowly dump again... then leave at 35-38 for a bit to condition then transfer.

The 2” dump valves on the spike fermenters are dumb. 400bbl fermenters only have 1.5” valves. If you can add pressure, there’s zero reason for 2”. I remove everything below the cone and just put a butterfly valve right at the bottom. No elbow, so sight glass, nothing. The whole surface to volume ratio made zero sense to be when there’s a 2” port on a 7g fermenter. Started when I was making lagers in them then just kept doing it for hoppy beers. In both cases you’ll want what’s siting in those 2” valves in contact with your beer.

Anyways there’s no reason to resuspend in my opinion but you want want to try ditching everything below the cone, especially if you’re going sightglass then elbow.
 
couchsending said:
It depends on what yeast you’re using when it comes to soft crashing. Some will take their time, other’s won’t. It’s something you just need to pay attention to and maybe try different times and temperatures.

I’m sure just about everyone is using some sort of 1318 variant. It floccs pretty well. After ferment is done you can just set your temp to 55. Depending on how you’re cooling 24 hours is really all you need. Harvest yeast (reuse it, don’t dump it) and add hops. There’s plenty of info now that says 24 hours is all you need. Extraction happens really fast. Pretty sure the brewery that won alpha king and GABF for hazy double ipa last year removes hops after 24 hours. (Burke Gilman). You can leave for longer if you want or add another dose of hops. Now start crashing and wait maybe 48 and slowly dump again... then leave at 35-38 for a bit to condition then transfer.

The 2” dump valves on the spike fermenters are dumb. 400bbl fermenters only have 1.5” valves. If you can add pressure, there’s zero reason for 2”. I remove everything below the cone and just put a butterfly valve right at the bottom. No elbow, so sight glass, nothing. The whole surface to volume ratio made zero sense to be when there’s a 2” port on a 7g fermenter. Started when I was making lagers in them then just kept doing it for hoppy beers. In both cases you’ll want what’s siting in those 2” valves in contact with your beer.

Anyways there’s no reason to resuspend in my opinion but you want want to try ditching everything below the cone, especially if you’re going sightglass then elbow.
Click to expand...

Thanks this is good advice. I just tried to rouse the dry hops with a sight glass and elbow this morning and it felt fairly pointless because it all just settled right back down.

It's just a pretty emotional thing to remove the sight glass though 😂 I love being able to see fermentation in action. I see the benefit of it though.

Edit: another question, maybe I'm being dense, but what's the problem with resuspending a little yeast after harvesting? If it's done fermenting it will just floc right back out and I don't know of any off flavors caused by that unless there's autolyzed yeast in there
 
Yea that’s been my experience too, I was never happy with the seal I could get with my ss brew bucket - cold crash or transfer always seemed to leak. all my o2 problems went away with keg fermenters.

so I guess I don’t understand why anyone would want a conical without pressure capabilities?
 
Last edited:
Is it the 7G Ss Brew bucket you use? This is my fermenter but never had o2 issues with it. Have the domed lid for it with tri clamp so can push a few psi of CO2 into it for closed transfer. I use a mylar balloon filled with co2 for cold crash with no issues either.
 
I've been getting away with using gravity for transfers since I don't have a pressure-rated fermenter quite yet. Keg posts always end up getting clogged if I ferment in those, even with a filter over my dip tube. Thing is, most pressure-rated fermenters are absolutely gigantic and won't fit into my fermentation fridge (kegerator). Well, except for Dgallo's fermonster setup. Maybe it's time …
 

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