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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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I'd give them the benefit of the doubt...it seems they are just riffing on the whole "laboratory theme" and biotransformation just fits into their catchy lexicon. "Become a Lab Partner", "catalyst", "control group", "genes", etc...
They both are pharmacists so yes it fits but marketing a buzzword abd using it incorrectly was more of what I was getting at. Hops don’t do the transforming, they are what is transformed.

I too hope they do well and will be checking them out next Sunday.
 
They both are pharmacists so yes it fits but marketing a buzzword abd using it incorrectly was more of what I was getting at. Hops don’t do the transforming, they are what is transformed.

I too hope they do well and will be checking them out next Sunday.
lol I agree. When I read that I was scratching my head too. But I actually wasn't sure if its technically inaccurate or not because it says "biotransformed WITH" hops and not "biotransformed BY" hops.
 
The only biotransformation going on in your fermentation (hopefully) is BY yeast TO fermentable compounds originating from grain, hops, or whatever other organics you add that they can find and use for the purposes of reproduction or growth. With (aka "in the presence of") does not seem to be too much of a stretch unless (as Noob_Brewer scratched his head over) they are using the word "with" to mean ("through the action of" aka "by"). Any other biotransformation would generatlly be termed "infection" and not something to celebrate. I'm more dubious about the first one that was "fermented with honey" as if the yeast were enjoying but otherwise ignoring it :)
 
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I usually do cold crash both before and after dry hopping. And transfer the beer to a separate dry hop keg. And dry hop cold.

In several brews I have nevertheless found yeast on top of my hops in the dry hop keg after the second cold crash.
The idea of soft crashing is to dump the yeast and avoid that oils from the hops binding to the yeast. So I would like to avoid yeast in the dry hop keg.

Do you have similar observations with yeast in the dry hop keg? And would a more intense cold crash before dry hopping be the solution?
 
from the "interviewing the beertender" file:

last summer I was in a newly-opened brewery in northern New England. the wife of the owner was pouring the beers. a family came in, and after a minute I recognized the man as the founder/owner of a very large brewery in Delaware. the owner's wife didn't recognize him. he went to the bar and during a cordial chat asked her several questions about the beers on tap. she "passed his test" and he ordered beers for his family. after they left, I told the owner's wife who she had just waited on and she started shaking because she was so nervous to have talked to someone that famous in the industry!
 
Another option if you want to mess with it is to get a yeast starter going and then add that to a larger amount of wort, like 1 gallon. Once that is going strong, pitch it into the stalled beer and it should ferment it out (if you can't get a dry pitch of yeast to start up fermentation again.)


Not sure either. Once I added the second pack it was flying within a few hours. Maybe a bad pack or something, The beer finished out at 1,016 too.

Added a half pack of US-05 last night and didn't see any signs of fermentation so resigned myself to the beer being a bust. Took a hydrometer sample and it's actually down to 1.022. Delighted to be honest. Really didn't think it was working. Hopefully with a bit of luck I might a few more points out of it. Thanks so much for all your help yesterday.
 
I think it would take several weeks to remove all of the yeast. I find that 1 week at near freezing before the dry hop will remove most of it and works great for making super hazy, long-lasting IPAs. Even after 1 week at freezing a beer won't be clear. If I make a low-hopped beer and let it sit at freezing it would probably take at least 1 month for all of the yeast to drop out.

I usually do cold crash both before and after dry hopping. And transfer the beer to a separate dry hop keg. And dry hop cold.

In several brews I have nevertheless found yeast on top of my hops in the dry hop keg after the second cold crash.
The idea of soft crashing is to dump the yeast and avoid that oils from the hops binding to the yeast. So I would like to avoid yeast in the dry hop keg.

Do you have similar observations with yeast in the dry hop keg? And would a more intense cold crash before dry hopping be the solution?
 
I usually do cold crash both before and after dry hopping. And transfer the beer to a separate dry hop keg. And dry hop cold.

In several brews I have nevertheless found yeast on top of my hops in the dry hop keg after the second cold crash.
The idea of soft crashing is to dump the yeast and avoid that oils from the hops binding to the yeast. So I would like to avoid yeast in the dry hop keg.

Do you have similar observations with yeast in the dry hop keg? And would a more intense cold crash before dry hopping be the solution?
I mentioned the idea a few weeks ago of using gelatin/bio fine or something similar prior to the DryHop as a way to remove all yeast. I haven’t tried it yet but it’s definitely an idea worth considering if that is your goal.
 
A friend of my swears by it and her got me to use it. He doesn't brew anything above 1.065 so he can't understand how I'm having issues. LA3 is a disaster for double ipas, I've 3 brews to prove it.

I read something earlier today where someone from White Labs was recommending to aerate high gravity wort before yeast pitch and then aerate again 12-18 hours after yeast pitch. I too have attenuation struggles with LAIII but I’m brewing a Triple IPA this weekend and I’m thinking of employing this technique to see if it helps with attenuation.
 
I read something earlier today where someone from White Labs was recommending to aerate high gravity wort before yeast pitch and then aerate again 12-18 hours after yeast pitch. I too have attenuation struggles with LAIII but I’m brewing a Triple IPA this weekend and I’m thinking of employing this technique to see if it helps with attenuation.
The issues with LAIII Is it’s lower attentiatuon. You can compensate for this with a lower mash temp. Since you know it has lower attenuation, the lower mash temp will in increase the fermentabilty a bit but still leave enough non fermentables around for body and perceived sweetness.

another option you have is to co pitch. Pitch LAIII first and then 24-36 hours later pitch US05 or another good attenuator. The theory behind this is that ester are at their peak production in the growth phase which is the initial 2 days, so you’ll get the ester production of the LAIII and the greater attenuation of us05.
 
has anyone had any commercial beers or some other experience with this cryo blend from YCH? seems pretty neat. They just announced the formal name, and it popped up in the CBB email. It was a numbered blend previously so perhaps someone got their hands on it?

https://cryopopblend.com/
 
I read something earlier today where someone from White Labs was recommending to aerate high gravity wort before yeast pitch and then aerate again 12-18 hours after yeast pitch. I too have attenuation struggles with LAIII but I’m brewing a Triple IPA this weekend and I’m thinking of employing this technique to see if it helps with attenuation.
I've done the second blast of oxygen when brewing Imperial Stouts and Quads but never on anything around 7-8%, seems a bit overkill. You are a brave man brewing a TIPA with that strain, from my experience recently of using it, you will struggle for that to finish. I'd take Dgallo's advice and co pitch with a better attenuator. My beer is still working away slowly since I added the US-05. I'll never use LAIII again for anything over a 6-6.5% beer.
 
My latest batch was with Verdant IPA dry yeast and it OVER attenuated like a mofo.

Direct pitch two packs of dry yeast into 23L of 1.064 -> 1.006 ! For 7.8%

I’m actually ticked, I tried mashing high because I wanted an especially higher FG (maybe 1.018) than what I’ve been getting lately. So I did a single infusion mash at 156. Left the heat and temp control but no recirculation on my grain father. Stirred for the first twenty but then life happened and I left it alone for 2.5 hours (edit: ridiculous I know, but I’m trying out breaking up the brew day with a new baby). When I came back to it and stirred it was at 149. I didn’t think that would be too bad , but dang it made some attenuative wort. So back to basics for me, dont screw up your mash.

So it seems to me verdant/LA3 is capable of a range of attenuations.

Any tips for salvaging this beer? It’s really dry and bitter as expected, but great aroma!
 
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My latest batch was with Verdant IPA dry yeast and it OVER attenuated like a mofo.

Direct pitch two packs of dry yeast into 23L of 1.064 -> 1.006 ! For 7.8%

I’m actually ticked, I tried mashing high because I wanted an especially higher FG (maybe 1.018) than what I’ve been getting lately. So I did a single infusion mash at 156. Left the heat and temp control but no recirculation on my grain father. Stirred for the first twenty but then life happened and I left it alone for 2.5 hours. When I came back to it and stirred it was at 149. I didn’t think that would be too bad, but dang it made some attenuative wort. So back to basics for me, dont screw up your mash.

So it seems to me verdant/LA3 is capable of a range of attenuations.

Any tips for salvaging this beer? It’s really dry and bitter as expected, but great aroma!
Mashing is time and temp.
Short of mashing so hot you start denaturing enzymes. 2.5 hours at most mash temps will result in nearly complete conversion and attenuation like that.

you can also go hot and short, 45 minutes to keep the fg high. That’s particular useful for low abv beers that you don’t want dry or to limit their abv
 
Mashing is time and temp.
Short of mashing so hot you start denaturing enzymes. 2.5 hours at most mash temps will result in nearly complete conversion and attenuation like that.

you can also go hot and short, 45 minutes to keep the fg high. That’s particular useful for low abv beers that you don’t want dry or to limit their abv
Agreed. 2.5 hours is a longgggg mash. It’s obviously not ideal but you could try mixing in some maltodextrin or some lactose.
 
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I've done the second blast of oxygen when brewing Imperial Stouts and Quads but never on anything around 7-8%, seems a bit overkill. You are a brave man brewing a TIPA with that strain, from my experience recently of using it, you will struggle for that to finish. I'd take Dgallo's advice and co pitch with a better attenuator. My beer is still working away slowly since I added the US-05. I'll never use LAIII again for anything over a 6-6.5% beer.

I almost exclusively brew DIPA using LA3. I’ve been designing my recipes so that I can account for the beer to attunuate 2-3 gravity points lower than expected. I also mash pretty low (63-64C).

We recently had a distributor bring Other Half beers to Australia and I managed to navigate their overloaded website through several server crashes and secure myself a couple of cans of Tripe Citra Daydream. It was comfortably the best beer I’ve ever had in my life so I am looking to brew something like it, although full well knowing that it won’t be as good. Through what I’ve learned on this thread and scouring for tidbits on the Other Half Daydream thread, as well as my experience using LA3, I’m comfortable with brewing a TIPA and accept that failure is a possibility.

I’m planning on aerating before yeast pitch and 12-18 hours post pitch, using more yeast nutrient, obviously pitching more yeast cells and also staggering my dextrose additions during fermentation instead of in the boil. I’ve planned the recipe in Brewfather to finish around 4 points lower than what I expect it will finish irl to account for LA3’s lower attenuation.

I’m actually really excited about this beer and can’t wait to brew it.
 
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Managed to get it down to 1.020 with the addition of some Us-05. Going to call this done and dry hop now.
 
Dry hop it warm.. prolly get another 1 plato drop depending on hop variety.
Ah I'm kinda happy with that to be honest. I'm dry hopping with Citra and Nelson, brewed this recently and dry hopped at 50F so going to do the same again as it turned out incredible, probably my best effort yet and I only got that down 1.023
 
What yeast did you use on that out of curiosity? Did it just crap out on you?
I actually used white labs opshaug Kveik which is extremely clean. I like to use either that or the omega lutra which is also super clean whenever I’m doing a single hop beer, especially a new one like eclipse. In my experience they ferment out pretty dry down to 1.010 or so, so I added 8 ounces of maltodextrin and 8 ounces of lactose try and boost mouthfeel. So if you account for the unfermentable sugars it was actually 1.069 - 1.014 (and then eventually 1.012 with the hop creep) But with the sugars it was 1.077 - 1.022, and then 1.020.
 
I actually used white labs opshaug Kveik which is extremely clean. I like to use either that or the omega lutra which is also super clean whenever I’m doing a single hop beer, especially a new one like eclipse. In my experience they ferment out pretty dry down to 1.010 or so, so I added 8 ounces of maltodextrin and 8 ounces of lactose try and boost mouthfeel. So if you account for the unfermentable sugars it was actually 1.069 - 1.014 (and then eventually 1.012 with the hop creep) But with the sugars it was 1.077 - 1.022, and then 1.020.
Good idea to use a very clean strain to see what the hop brings to the table.
 
The dreaded drop of efficiency with larger grain bills. Could always use 2-3 lbs of dme to hit your target og

Yeah I’m just gonna use the DME I have on deck, about half a kilogram. It won’t be a Triple but It will still be a delicious beer regardless.
 
Can't thank you all enough for all the info in this thread - it's crazy how much my beers have improved by following the advice here. I do have some questions i'd love y'all's take on.

1. Do you guys still use whirlfloc with this style? I've found conflicting information with some noting that you might want those proteins to make their way to the fermenter instead of dropping them out of suspension in the kettle per usual. I can see why this might make sense when the binding of polyphenols and proteins is desirable for this style.

2. At flameout I use a counterflow chiller to immediately chill down to 170F for my whirlpool additions. Are you guys continuing to spin the wort for the duration of the hop stand? I've seen advice to "just get it spinning" then shut the pump off so as to not break up the hot break material you want to fall to the bottom of the kettle. I suppose this is kind of related to my first question.

3. For those of you with conicals, what does your cone dump schedule look like? I've always had some clogging issues when doing closed transfers to corny kegs and wonder if I can switch something up to completely drop the hop matter out of suspension.

Thanks again all!
 
I tried my hand at biotransformation, instead of dry hopping at colder temps and got some interesting results. The beer took a while to condition, not tasting like much initially, but eventually came out quite nicely. It's definitely a drier IPA a la Focal Banger (thus Conan), and I think I got pretty close to that beer.

Tasting notes are an easy drinking peach-mango marmalade and a classic Citra/Mosaic note. I didn't get much Sabro having heard that it can be quite potent, I'll definitely try to add it on the cold side next time.

Grist: 60% 2-row, 20% Malted oats, 20% White wheat
Whirlpool: 1oz Azacca, 1oz Citra, 1oz Mosaic
Day 5: 2oz Sabro and 1oz Citra
Day 14: 5oz Citra, 2oz Mosaic and 1oz Azacca @58F
Yeast: Conan
OG: 1.068
FG: 1.014

OrangeJam.jpg


A little note on LA3. I had Burial's Imaginative Exaggeration the other day (they ship nationwide now!), and it was quite tasty. Big overripe mangoes and cantaloupe, highly recommend. It tasted like they were using London Ale III and it was an 8.3% brew, somehow they got it down to 1.021 FG. It's definitely a sweet beer, but it compliments the Citra/Simcoe combo well.
 
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