New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Dgallo]

So you don't do an early biotransformation dry hop then?
At what temp do you get suck back into the fermenter?

No, it happens already from your Whirlpool hops.

You technically will get suck back anytime the air in headspace cools and contracts. Happens more drastically with the speed in which the temperature drops

 

[synonymous18]

yeah I don’t really know... I think I read some early reviews that aren’t that good?

however I did order some of the 500ml cans from Morebeer and have been really happy with them. Had to get an adapter for the SL1 to use a van that size but they’re cheaper than getting cans through Oktober. That’s the biggest kick in the shorts on canning, the price of shipping those boxes of cans. It’s insane.

I also have an SL1. What did you get from morebeer, the b64 lid or full aperture lids? Where did you get your adapter?

 

[Fergal]

I also have an SL1. What did you get from morebeer, the b64 lid or full aperture lids? Where did you get your adapter?

I have the cannular (kegland are actually my local HBS) and can say it does exactly what it needs to. Can't compare to the SL1 as I've never used one but I'm not sure what extra functionality you would get over the cannular. You might be required to adjust the chuck/rollers to get a perfect seal, but once you do that's it. I guess this should be done in the factory but that's the pricepoint...

 

[couchsending]

I also have an SL1. What did you get from morebeer, the b64 lid or full aperture lids? Where did you get your adapter?

b64 lids.. not a fan of the full aperture lid Personally.

Oktober sells the adapter for them. I think it’s a 335/500ml adapter. It’s a two piece adapter that you separate to use on the 500ml cans.

 

[Andre3000]

On the subject of perma-haze:

That's over two months in the keg. I'm pretty sure she isn't going to clear up.

You Are Not Alone recipe here brewed remotely with my homebrew club:
https://reubensbrews.com/you-are-not-alone-homebrew-recipe/
I think it was 4 gallons into the fermenter. Too bad I YOLO'd and didn't take any pH measurements at any point, maybe boil pH was really low? I also did a double BIAB mash to hit OG which confounds things. But it was a 10oz DH. Maybe that played a factor in the haze. Aroma is still extremely strong and this beer keeps getting better with age. I'm crediting my ridiculous keg dry hop cannon setup.

I've been looking over the grain bill, recounting my process, etc. to try to figure out why it's still so hazy.

 

[stickyfinger]

do a split batch of t90 vs!

I’m interested in trying a single-hopped Citra NE IPA with a combination of T90, Lupo, and Cryo. Dry hop with 2oz of each, which is ~equivalent to 8.85oz T90 (using 70% factor for Lupo and 50% for Cryo).

Aroma and flavor complexity using all 3 varieties would be interesting, especially in direct comparison to a batch using 100% T90.

 

[stickyfinger]

are you dry hopping at 10C now or warming back up for the dry hop? I've definitely noticed some hop creep with the typical offenders when warming back up after a crash, but it hasn't resulted in diacetyl yet for me, just higher ABV. I need to do a side by side with my current method and a colder dry hop. Aaron from New Anthem recommended 10C for dry hop temp with the same amount of hops as a warm dry hop. hard to believe.

a big reason for me to dry dry hopping colder again is to avoid the higher ABV. I did a split batch with Mosaic in one and Idaho 7 in the other for dry hop. The Mosaic batch wound up at 5.7% and the Idaho 7 is only 5.0% I've done 60F with Galaxy and gotten good results but felt other hops gave a more subdued character colder (but they weren't split batches so maybe it was a red herring.)

Colder than that for me. I’m at the equivalent of 10*c

 

[midegrou]

Brewed a 2.2 gallon batch on July 4 and began soft crashing Monday (7/13) after my Tilt hydrometer showed 3 days of stable gravity. I transferred to the DH keg yesterday and collected the yeast/trub. I'm seeing some of the yeast still floating this morning, however (this is after a night of refrigeration). The yeast is LAIII.

Is this normal or an indication that I pulled from primary too quickly? The liquid is slightly carbonated as I added about 10psi before soft-crashing. Perhaps that could be holding it in suspension?

 

[secretlevel]

On the subject of perma-haze:

View attachment 689574

That's over two months in the keg. I'm pretty sure she isn't going to clear up.

You Are Not Alone recipe here brewed remotely with my homebrew club:
https://reubensbrews.com/you-are-not-alone-homebrew-recipe/
I think it was 4 gallons into the fermenter. Too bad I YOLO'd and didn't take any pH measurements at any point, maybe boil pH was really low? I also did a double BIAB mash to hit OG which confounds things. But it was a 10oz DH. Maybe that played a factor in the haze. Aroma is still extremely strong and this beer keeps getting better with age. I'm crediting my ridiculous keg dry hop cannon setup.

I've been looking over the grain bill, recounting my process, etc. to try to figure out why it's still so hazy.

Reuben's is awesome and the beer looks great! What are your thoughts on the hop combo? It's not often that you see folks dry hopping with Grungeist and Chinook.

 

[couchsending]

Brewed a 2.2 gallon batch on July 4 and began soft crashing Monday (7/13) after my Tilt hydrometer showed 3 days of stable gravity. I transferred to the DH keg yesterday and collected the yeast/trub. I'm seeing some of the yeast still floating this morning, however (this is after a night of refrigeration). The yeast is LAIII.

Is this normal or an indication that I pulled from primary too quickly? The liquid is slightly carbonated as I added about 10psi before soft-crashing. Perhaps that could be holding it in suspension?

standard. It’ll all settle sooner or later. Just leave the lid slightly cracked for the first few day.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Stan Hieronymous has new data from Germany on 4MMP (blackcurrant/catty) content, which may be of interest. The likes of Apollo and Topaz may not be enough to carry a beer on their own, but can be useful supporting actors.

High levels: Citra, Simcoe, Eureka!, Summit, Apollo, Topaz, Mosaic, Ekuanot, Galaxy, Nelson Sauvin, Sabro.
Significant levels: Zeus, Cluster, Chinook, Cascade, Centennial, Amarillo, German Northern Brewer, Hallertau Blanc, German Cascade, Mandarina Bavaria, Polaris.
Measurable but low: Bravo, Calypso, Sultana, Galena, Lemondrop, Sorachi Ace, Super Galena, Willamette, Halltertau Tradition, Herkules, Perle, Taurus, Tettnanger, Styrian Golding, New Zealand Pacific Gem. Perhaps Saaz.
None: Hallertau Mittelfrüh, Hersbrucker, Hüll Melon, Magnum, Saphir, Spalter Select, Bramling Cross, East Kent Golding, First Gold, Fuggle, Pilgrim, Progress, Wye Challenger, Wye Target.

 

[Rainy]

Stan Hieronymous has new data from Germany on 4MMP (blackcurrant/catty) content, which may be of interest. The likes of Apollo and Topaz may not be enough to carry a beer on their own, but can be useful supporting actors.

High levels: Citra, Simcoe, Eureka!, Summit, Apollo, Topaz, Mosaic, Ekuanot, Galaxy, Nelson Sauvin, Sabro.
Significant levels: Zeus, Cluster, Chinook, Cascade, Centennial, Amarillo, German Northern Brewer, Hallertau Blanc, German Cascade, Mandarina Bavaria, Polaris.
Measurable but low: Bravo, Calypso, Sultana, Galena, Lemondrop, Sorachi Ace, Super Galena, Willamette, Halltertau Tradition, Herkules, Perle, Taurus, Tettnanger, Styrian Golding, New Zealand Pacific Gem. Perhaps Saaz.
None: Hallertau Mittelfrüh, Hersbrucker, Hüll Melon, Magnum, Saphir, Spalter Select, Bramling Cross, East Kent Golding, First Gold, Fuggle, Pilgrim, Progress, Wye Challenger, Wye Target.

Any idea if 4MMP (and other thiols in general) survives the whirlpool and fermentation such as 3MH does?

 

[Andre3000]

Reuben's is awesome and the beer looks great! What are your thoughts on the hop combo? It's not often that you see folks dry hopping with Grungeist and Chinook.

I agree it's a bit of an interesting combo. The Mosaic WP came through pretty strong which helps. It's definitely a bit of a departure from the standard NEIPA combo. I'm not good with flavor descriptions. I'd describe it as stone fruit, pineapple, with a hint of floral, more so than a standard NEIPA. Either way, it's really friggin good, and it keeps getting better which is odd for this style as well.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Any idea if 4MMP (and other thiols in general) survives the whirlpool and fermentation such as 3MH does?

That's a really complicated question, as some hops like eg Calypso have lots of thiols bound up that benefit from some boiling to release them, whereas other have free thiols that are easily released at dry hop temperatures - and some people may like to boil for 5-10 minutes just to drive off what they perceive as excessive cattiness.

So...it depends on the hop. And on your yeast's biotransformation activity. This stuff is never simple....

 

[Rainy]

That's a really complicated question, as some hops like eg Calypso have lots of thiols bound up that benefit from some boiling to release them, whereas other have free thiols that are easily released at dry hop temperatures - and some people may like to boil for 5-10 minutes just to drive off what they perceive as excessive cattiness.

So...it depends on the hop. And on your yeast's biotransformation activity. This stuff is never simple....

Hehe, I know it seems to be the million dollar question these days.

But I was asking the question in the light of the "survivables" chart that YCH produced with hops ranked according to the amount of hop components they have which will survive a whirlpool or and early fermentation dry hop, and I think 3MH was in there. I am guessing they just looked at free thiols.
So to rephrase my question, are all free thiols more prone to stay into solution due to their chemical structure, or is there a range of more and less polar thiols, thus also leading to a difference in solubility in water?

 

[VirginiaHops1]

I recently did a beer with my usual hazy grain bill and A38 Juice yeast. At about a week into carbing it I had to reposition it in the keezer to add/remove other kegs. I tapped it later that day and it had some hop burn, so I figured I'd let it sit another day or two since I probably roused some stuff up. When I tapped it again it wasn't very hazy. Less than a week into drinking it it's dropped pretty much completely clear.

It doesn't have that super saturated hop flavor but the flavor is good, more in line with a regular DIPA. It finished drier than I wanted(1.008) but I don't think this is affecting that haze, as I've had other beers including the one right after it finish too dry but still be plenty hazy. I know other people have noticed this happening before and theorized moving the keg around did something so thought I'd post my experience. I'm actually intrigued by it, and might experiment with doing it on purpose with my beers I want to finish clearer.

 

[stickyfinger]

I recently did a beer with my usual hazy grain bill and A38 Juice yeast. At about a week into carbing it I had to reposition it in the keezer to add/remove other kegs. I tapped it later that day and it had some hop burn, so I figured I'd let it sit another day or two since I probably roused some stuff up. When I tapped it again it wasn't very hazy. Less than a week into drinking it it's dropped pretty much completely clear.

It doesn't have that super saturated hop flavor but the flavor is good, more in line with a regular DIPA. It finished drier than I wanted(1.008) but I don't think this is affecting that haze, as I've had other beers including the one right after it finish too dry but still be plenty hazy. I know other people have noticed this happening before and theorized moving the keg around did something so thought I'd post my experience. I'm actually intrigued by it, and might experiment with doing it on purpose with my beers I want to finish clearer.

did u soft/hard crash the yeast before dry hop on this? Just curious how that process impacts clarification if a keg is moved when in service.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

did u soft/hard crash the yeast before dry hop on this? Just curious how that process impacts clarification if a keg is moved when in service.

Hmm, I typically hard crash all my batches before dry hop but my notes for that one don't say anything about it. Can't remember if I skipped it or did a quick crash and didn't note it. I know there have been batches in the past I haven't crashed either out of forgetfulness or just haste and I think they stayed pretty hazy but I'd have to go back and check my notes. I'll have to play around with jostling my kegs some more to try to figure out if anything is actually happening.

 

[marjen]

I am really getting frustrated with my efforts lately. I have not made a good NEIPA in ages. THe last one has a really weird funky sour taste to it, almost like its bad somehow. I have complete temp control and fplowing same process and using same ingredients as most here. Able to do closed transfers, have unitank so also able to keep CO2 pressure on it in the fermenter. Just really don’t understand why non of the beers have been remotely good lately. As a result have not been brewing much lately

 

[Dgallo]

I am really getting frustrated with my efforts lately. I have not made a good NEIPA in ages. THe last one has a really weird funky sour taste to it, almost like its bad somehow. I have complete temp control and fplowing same process and using same ingredients as most here. Able to do closed transfers, have unitank so also able to keep CO2 pressure on it in the fermenter. Just really don’t understand why non of the beers have been remotely good lately. As a result have not been brewing much lately

When was the last time you broke down all your equipment/lines/taps/kegs and gave them a really good cleaning/replaced orings and lines?

Do you monitor ph?

Have you been using fresh hops?

 

[marjen]

Equipment, boil kettles, pumps, fermenters and kegs are always broken down after each brew session and our when fermentation is complete. Keg lines were all replaced (as I moved and built new brew space) about 6 months ago. I have not been monitoring PH lately. Yes fresh hops, stored in freezer from Yakima Valley.

 

[Dgallo]

Equipment, boil kettles, pumps, fermenters and kegs are always broken down after each brew session and our when fermentation is complete. Keg lines were all replaced (as I moved and built new brew space) about 6 months ago. I have not been monitoring PH lately. Yes fresh hops, stored in freezer from Yakima Valley.

Ph could help explain sour notes. Could be infection, improper water chemistry or the extraction of tannins in the mash/sparge. I’ve read some folks can perceive this as a tangy astringency.

 

[marjen]

Ph could help explain sour notes. Could be infection, improper water chemistry or the extraction of tannins in the mash/sparge. I’ve read some folks can perceive this as a tangy astringency.

Usually when I was messing around with PH I had to add a little larctic acid to bring it down. So cant imagine ph would be low. Using big water jugs purchased from walmart (5 gallon) so dont think it would have a low ph by default.

I thought equipment cleaning issue, but that sour taste was only prevalent in this last batch. Prior ones just weren’t good for other reasons. Always seems to have a different weird off flavor.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

I am really getting frustrated with my efforts lately. I have not made a good NEIPA in ages. THe last one has a really weird funky sour taste to it, almost like its bad somehow. I have complete temp control and fplowing same process and using same ingredients as most here. Able to do closed transfers, have unitank so also able to keep CO2 pressure on it in the fermenter. Just really don’t understand why non of the beers have been remotely good lately. As a result have not been brewing much lately

What was the summarized recipe of the last good one you made vs the recent subpar ones?

 

[marjen]

To be honest i dont really change much up. Grains are pretty basic. Usually 80% 2-row, 10%+- malted wheat and 10% +- flaked wheat or oats. I mess around with slight changes but not by much. I always do .25 oz columbus at 60 mins. .75 Columbus at 10 mins. Whirlpool 5-6 oz around 175 for 30 mins with whatever hops I am using. Then dryhop with about 6-8 oz of hops. I have moved more towards late dryhopping where I used to try and dryhop during high kruzen. But dont think that could be issue.

 

[GRBC]

I am really getting frustrated with my efforts lately. I have not made a good NEIPA in ages. THe last one has a really weird funky sour taste to it, almost like its bad somehow. I have complete temp control and fplowing same process and using same ingredients as most here. Able to do closed transfers, have unitank so also able to keep CO2 pressure on it in the fermenter. Just really don’t understand why non of the beers have been remotely good lately. As a result have not been brewing much lately

Does your new place have different water? Chloramine added?

 

[R.A.I.D]

I have brewed this nice Trillium Streets inspired NEIPA. But it is a bit too bitter to my taste. What would you recommend for next time to switch the balance to a more sweet beer while keeping the hop intensity?

Pre boil: 21 L (5.5 us gallons)
Post boil: 19 L (5 us gallons)
Into fermenter: 18 L (4.8 us gallons)
Into dry hop keg: 15.5 L (4 us gallons)

Ca 69
Mg 3
SO4 82
Na 60
Cl 164
PH at mash start: 5.1

15min+whirlpool = 80 g, 2.8 oz
Dry hop: 186 g, 6.6 oz

OG: 1070
FG: 1020
ABV: 6.6
Mash: 66C (151F)
Mash out: 76C (169F)
Boil: 60 min
Whirlpool: 70C (158F) for 20 min

Pale Ale malt: 4300g 70%
Flaked wheat: 1100g 18%
Cara Hell (crystal 15): 300g 5%
Cara pils: 200g 3%
Corn sugar: 250g 4%

Columbus, 7g mash hops (2 IBU) 0.25oz
Columbus, 4g first wort hops (5 IBU) 0.14oz
Columbus, 20g 15 min (14 IBU) 0.7oz
Columbus, 60g whirlpool 70C (158F) in 20 min (4 IBU) 2.1oz
Columbus, 36g dry hop post fermentation, 1.3oz
Strata, 150g dry hop post fermentation, 5.3oz

Ascorbic acid, 1g, post fermentation
Yeast nutrient, boil 10 min
Irish moss, 5g, boil 10 min

Yeast:
SafAle s04, 11g
Pitch 23C (73F)
Fermentation 19C (66F) for 5 days
Fermentation 23C (73F) for 6 days
Cold crash at 0C (32F)
Transfer to dry hop keg
Dry hop at 19C (66F) for 24 hours
Cold crash at 0C (32F) for 4 days (still on dry hop)
Transfer to serving keg.
Mature for 4 weeks.

 

[MrPowers]

I have brewed this nice Trillium Streets inspired NEIPA. But it is a bit too bitter to my taste. What would you recommend for next time to switch the balance to a more sweet beer while keeping the hop intensity?

Pre boil: 21 L (5.5 us gallons)
Post boil: 19 L (5 us gallons)
Into fermenter: 18 L (4.8 us gallons)
Into dry hop keg: 15.5 L (4 us gallons)

Ca 69
Mg 3
SO4 82
Na 60
Cl 164
PH at mash start: 5.1

15min+whirlpool = 80 g, 2.8 oz
Dry hop: 186 g, 6.6 oz

OG: 1070
FG: 1020
ABV: 6.6
Mash: 66C (151F)
Mash out: 76C (169F)
Boil: 60 min
Whirlpool: 70C (158F) for 20 min

Pale Ale malt: 4300g 70%
Flaked wheat: 1100g 18%
Cara Hell (crystal 15): 300g 5%
Cara pils: 200g 3%
Corn sugar: 250g 4%

Columbus, 7g mash hops (2 IBU) 0.25oz
Columbus, 4g first wort hops (5 IBU) 0.14oz
Columbus, 20g 15 min (14 IBU) 0.7oz
Columbus, 60g whirlpool 70C (158F) in 20 min (4 IBU) 2.1oz
Columbus, 36g dry hop post fermentation, 1.3oz
Strata, 150g dry hop post fermentation, 5.3oz

Ascorbic acid, 1g, post fermentation
Yeast nutrient, boil 10 min
Irish moss, 5g, boil 10 min

Yeast:
SafAle s04, 11g
Pitch 23C (73F)
Fermentation 19C (66F) for 5 days
Fermentation 23C (73F) for 6 days
Cold crash at 0C (32F)
Transfer to dry hop keg
Dry hop at 19C (66F) for 24 hours
Cold crash at 0C (32F) for 4 days (still on dry hop)
Transfer to serving keg.
Mature for 4 weeks.

Move all of the hot side hops to the whirlpool. That should decrease the bitterness significantly while still retraining the flavor!

 

[HopsAreGood]

Time to get busy. I got my lupomax today. I’m pretty excited to see how this works out. I have beer fermenting right now that is almost done. 2 oz I-7 at 10 and then 6 oz I-7 for 30 minutes in a 165 whirlpool. I’m curious to see how much flavor and aroma come through based on the new data suggesting I-7 is the king of survivables in terms of hot side hops. I’m going to dry hop with 2.5 Citra, 2.5 mosaic, and 2.5 Sabro which equates to a little over 10 oz of standards pellets.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

Recently tapped my first ever hazy with K-97. Not a great beer. For the first couple days drinking it I couldn't place my finger on why. Is it astringency? Not really. Too much bitterness coming through from the K-97? Then it finally hit me. It's peppers. I used Ekuanot cryo in the dry hop. I know peppers are in the flavor description but it's supposedly also pretty fruity, and I heard a pro on a podcast raving about how the cryo was really fruity and awesome. This thing is a green pepper bomb. I'm withholding judgement on K-97 for the time being.

 

[secretlevel]

Usually when I was messing around with PH I had to add a little larctic acid to bring it down. So cant imagine ph would be low. Using big water jugs purchased from walmart (5 gallon) so dont think it would have a low ph by default.

I thought equipment cleaning issue, but that sour taste was only prevalent in this last batch. Prior ones just weren’t good for other reasons. Always seems to have a different weird off flavor.

Have you measured the finished beer pH? Decarbed and room temp.

Edit: Finished beer pH, not beef

 

[midegrou]

Came out beautiful, aromatic, and delicious. Easily the best beer I've ever brewed. Really appreciate the tips in this thread!

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Came out beautiful, aromatic, and delicious. Easily the best beer I've ever brewed. Really appreciate the tips in this thread!

looks great - whats the hops used? give us the deets!

 

[Oldskewl]

I am really getting frustrated with my efforts lately. I have not made a good NEIPA in ages. THe last one has a really weird funky sour taste to it, almost like its bad somehow. I have complete temp control and fplowing same process and using same ingredients as most here. Able to do closed transfers, have unitank so also able to keep CO2 pressure on it in the fermenter. Just really don’t understand why non of the beers have been remotely good lately. As a result have not been brewing much lately

I have been fighting a similar issue on my NEIPAs using the recipe in this thread or a variation. My first 2-3 batches turned out awesome. Last few have had astringency After much research, I am planning on limiting whirlpool hops to 2-3 oz and moving the rest to the ist and 2nd dry hops. It is also worth checking a degassed room temp sample for gravity and PH. A few months ago I was fighting the STA-1 gene in my system I assume from brewing a few Saisons. My beers were continuing to ferment after bottling and kegging and holding at targeted FG for days to weeks. It took a soak in a mild bleach/water solution to get rid of it.

 

[elproducto]

Folks, this is one of the best threads about hops in the internet right now.. bar none. I got convinced by a fellow homebrew club member to grab some Eukanot hops (1 pound), but now that I'm reading I'm really worried about the horror stories about green pepper. Any thoughts? Things to do to prevent? Heard it might do better in the whirlpool as opposed to the dry hop.

 

[Dgallo]

YVH has 2020 Austrian varieties. Get on quick!

 

[anteater8]

Folks, this is one of the best threads about hops in the internet right now.. bar none. I got convinced by a fellow homebrew club member to grab some Eukanot hops (1 pound), but now that I'm reading I'm really worried about the horror stories about green pepper. Any thoughts? Things to do to prevent? Heard it might do better in the whirlpool as opposed to the dry hop.

I've heard the same thing about Ekuanot in the whirlpool, but I can't remember where. In my experience its a decent hop. I did an all Ekuanot IPA once,that I was not a huge fan of... but I did a Mosaic/Ekuanot IPA that turned out great. To me it tasted like a Mosaic IPA with a punch of lime, so I would pair it with other hops that you think would go well with lime (Citra seems like a good match).

 

[aaronm13]

View attachment 690409Time to get busy. I got my lupomax today. I’m pretty excited to see how this works out. I have beer fermenting right now that is almost done. 2 oz I-7 at 10 and then 6 oz I-7 for 30 minutes in a 165 whirlpool. I’m curious to see how much flavor and aroma come through based on the new data suggesting I-7 is the king of survivables in terms of hot side hops. I’m going to dry hop with 2.5 Citra, 2.5 mosaic, and 2.5 Sabro which equates to a little over 10 oz of standards pellets.

Keep us posted on how they perform. Am putting together a Yakima order at the moment and am tempted to sub out regular T-90 hops for these.

 

[Rob2010SS]

New NEIPA that we just brewed. 45% Citra, 35% El Dorado, and 20% Galaxy. Roughly 6.6% ABV and we went with 2oz/gal dry hop. Definitely picked up some IBU's from that. Still tasty and very pleasant to drink. Not a harsh bitterness at all but I can see where a beer at 6.6% would benefit from a bit less aggressive of a dry hop.

The aroma is fantastic - tropical fruit, lots of passionfruit, maybe some pineapple. While it's a good hop combo, I'd like to tweak the combo to bring out more of the "sweeter" fruit aromas, if that makes sense. Definitely need to experiment more. But, it's damn good! Thanks to everyone here that helped. @Dgallo through some DM's was a huge help.

I will say though, I have to buy a filter or something for the dry hops. That was a nightmare. I had so many clogging issues because of all of the hop matter, it took me 5 hours to transfer to 3 kegs, and I still didnt' even finish. I gave up and ordered a little bouncer filter with the fine mesh to finish it out this week. I crashed for 48 hours at 34*F and it didn't drop enough of the hops out before transferring.

 

[anteater8]

New NEIPA that we just brewed. 45% Citra, 35% El Dorado, and 20% Galaxy. Roughly 6.6% ABV and we went with 2oz/gal dry hop. Definitely picked up some IBU's from that. Still tasty and very pleasant to drink. Not a harsh bitterness at all but I can see where a beer at 6.6% would benefit from a bit less aggressive of a dry hop.

The aroma is fantastic - tropical fruit, lots of passionfruit, maybe some pineapple. While it's a good hop combo, I'd like to tweak the combo to bring out more of the "sweeter" fruit aromas, if that makes sense. Definitely need to experiment more. But, it's damn good! Thanks to everyone here that helped. @Dgallo through some DM's was a huge help.

I will say though, I have to buy a filter or something for the dry hops. That was a nightmare. I had so many clogging issues because of all of the hop matter, it took me 5 hours to transfer to 3 kegs, and I still didnt' even finish. I gave up and ordered a little bouncer filter with the fine mesh to finish it out this week. I crashed for 48 hours at 34*F and it didn't drop enough of the hops out before transferring.

View attachment 690527

This auto-siphon filter is one of my favorite pieces of homebrewing equipment: Stainless Brewing Filters For Beer, Wine, Coffee, Tea and More! - Hop Spider, Hops Holder, Hop Strainer Cup, Keg Filter, Kettle Screens, Stainless Steel Mesh, Custom - Utah Biodiesel Supply

Using that filter combined with a good cold crash with a co2 filled balloon has made kegging so much easier.