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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Did a 2.5 gallon batch on Monday and pitched with Gigayeast Vermont IPA. Didn’t see any activity til Wednesday afternoon. Longest two days of my life
 
Did a 2.5 gallon batch on Monday and pitched with Gigayeast Vermont IPA. Didn’t see any activity til Wednesday afternoon. Longest two days of my life
Yeah that’s uncomfortably long especially with a small batch. What was the date on your yeast?
 
Did a 2.5 gallon batch on Monday and pitched with Gigayeast Vermont IPA. Didn’t see any activity til Wednesday afternoon. Longest two days of my life

A lot of people have reported having issues with the Gigayeast version. Which is odd cause if you ask a lot of professionals they’d say the Gigayeast is the best version. Prolly has something to do with all the hands it passes through on the Homebrew side.

Been using VT Ale a bunch since last fall. Pretty much 80% of the time with some random stuff mixed in. I was culturing from some cans as well as trying the Giga and Yeast Bay versions. Personally I’ve found the Yeast Bay version to be the best. If floccs way better and is a bit quicker.
 
Just read this interesting article from Beer and Brewing. I might consider racking a smaller beer onto some spent dry hops in my serving kegs. typically I'm 4-6 oz for my second dry hop in the serving keg, and like the article has mentioned I'm sure we've all noticed the killer aroma during cleanups. Anyone try something similar before?

https://beerandbrewing.com/elements...T&utm_content=Recycling+Hops+in+the+Brewhouse
 
Yeah but I think those reused hops could potentially provide a different character to the beer. I’ve contemplated it but it hasn’t really worked it’s way into the rotation. I might try dumping most of the hops out of the fermenter and saving the last bit and putting a beer on top. We’ll see.
 
So Im thinking of revisiting a citra/nelson/galaxy NEIPA I brewed a little while ago. I used 1:1:1 ratios throughout and warrior for bittering charge. But with the oil content of the galaxy being so high (Im assuming it was because of this) in comparison to citra and nelson, the galaxy seemed to dominate and I didn't get the other hops to bring what they have to the table as much. Ive previously brewed 1:1:1 with citra/mosaic/galaxy and didn't seem to have this issue though. So what ratios has anyone who's used this hop combo use on both hot side and cold side?
 
Yeah but I think those reused hops could potentially provide a different character to the beer. I’ve contemplated it but it hasn’t really worked it’s way into the rotation. I might try dumping most of the hops out of the fermenter and saving the last bit and putting a beer on top. We’ll see.
Yeah I’d definitely have to plan it pretty nicely...or just keep the empty keg cold. I do think it would be different but I’m not opposed to trying a “light” pale ale or blonde to see what it might do. Even if 6oz became 2-3 of effective dry hop I think it might be interesting. I would just rack it into the nicely purged keg (from serving) similar to reusing a keg for similar styles(granted I have not done this)
 
So Im thinking of revisiting a citra/nelson/galaxy NEIPA I brewed a little while ago. I used 1:1:1 ratios throughout and warrior for bittering charge. But with the oil content of the galaxy being so high (Im assuming it was because of this) in comparison to citra and nelson, the galaxy seemed to dominate and I didn't get the other hops to bring what they have to the table as much. Ive previously brewed 1:1:1 with citra/mosaic/galaxy and didn't seem to have this issue though. So what ratios has anyone who's used this hop combo use on both hot side and cold side?

I just kegged a 2:1:1 of Citra, Mosaic and Galaxy. It is still pretty green, but the Citra is pretty dominate (kind of obvious...). So, I think the 1:1:1 of each would be more balanced.
 
I just kegged a 2:1:1 of Citra, Mosaic and Galaxy. It is still pretty green, but the Citra is pretty dominate (kind of obvious...). So, I think the 1:1:1 of each would be more balanced.
I think it’s too early to make a call on the beer yet. Idk if anyone else experiences this but both mosaic and Galaxy take a little bit of conditioning time to start showing their true characteristics. Especially mosaic. I did a single hop mosaic beer last year. For the first two weeks it was very dank and earth forward with fruit on the back ends. After 4 weeks that beer showcased all those beautiful blueberry/mango notes with a great supporting notes of dank/earth.
 
I think it’s too early to make a call on the beer yet. Idk if anyone else experiences this but both mosaic and Galaxy take a little bit of conditioning time to start showing their true characteristics. Especially mosaic. I did a single hop mosaic beer last year. For the first two weeks it was very dank and earth forward with fruit on the back ends. After 4 weeks that beer showcased all those beautiful blueberry/mango notes with a great supporting notes of dank/earth.

Yeah, possibly. I am getting a lot of lemon/lime, orange right now. Will update.
 
Yeah, possibly. I am getting a lot of lemon/lime, orange right now. Will update.
Mosaic is super pungent imho. It easily dominates. More so then galaxy. Citra is a very versatile hop that blends well as a base.
 
so im curious to know if anybody is having success using a natural carbonation process on hazy type beers? or really any hop-heavy type beers i guess....

i know some folks will dry hop with points remaining, but i've always preferred to drop the yeast before i hop, so not convinced i wanna go down that route. im thinking more along the lines of adding spiesse or just priming sugar and a carbing yeast like cbc or f2 into the keg. now, i always come back to the thought that the yeast will pull out hop oils, but maybe the conditioning yeasts arent as likely to do that vs regular yeasts?

anybody tried this?
 
so im curious to know if anybody is having success using a natural carbonation process on hazy type beers? or really any hop-heavy type beers i guess....

i know some folks will dry hop with points remaining, but i've always preferred to drop the yeast before i hop, so not convinced i wanna go down that route. im thinking more along the lines of adding spiesse or just priming sugar and a carbing yeast like cbc or f2 into the keg. now, i always come back to the thought that the yeast will pull out hop oils, but maybe the conditioning yeasts arent as likely to do that vs regular yeasts?

anybody tried this?
Can you use some krausening from another beer in a fv?
 
so im curious to know if anybody is having success using a natural carbonation process on hazy type beers? or really any hop-heavy type beers i guess....

i know some folks will dry hop with points remaining, but i've always preferred to drop the yeast before i hop, so not convinced i wanna go down that route. im thinking more along the lines of adding spiesse or just priming sugar and a carbing yeast like cbc or f2 into the keg. now, i always come back to the thought that the yeast will pull out hop oils, but maybe the conditioning yeasts arent as likely to do that vs regular yeasts?

anybody tried this?

I naturally carb all of my highly hopped beers in the keg to help prevent oxidation. Sometimes I use the primary yeast (with or without a soft crash), sometimes I’ll soft crash and add CBC-1 with priming sugar.

I haven’t noticed much/if any detriment to hop aroma but have seen vastly improved shelf life. You’re carbonating in a sealed vessel, so aren’t scrubbing aroma through the airlock.

You just need to be aware of the additional attenuation from hop creep after dry hopping. A spunding valve will help a lot to get the carbonation level right, but, you don’t want to let much blow off through the valve to preserve as much of that aroma as possible. It’s a balancing act finding the right amount of priming sugar.
 
Can you use some krausening from another beer in a fv?
theoretically, but at home i rarely have more than one batch going at a time. i'd think saving some wort from the kettle might work, although i'd be diluting my nice dry hopped beer with wort that only got WP hops. whereas sugar would take up less volume in the keg as well as not "dilute" the hop charge. havent actually done this yet, so its all theoretical.


I naturally carb all of my highly hopped beers in the keg to help prevent oxidation. Sometimes I use the primary yeast (with or without a soft crash), sometimes I’ll soft crash and add CBC-1 with priming sugar.

I haven’t noticed much/if any detriment to hop aroma but have seen vastly improved shelf life. You’re carbonating in a sealed vessel, so aren’t scrubbing aroma through the airlock.

You just need to be aware of the additional attenuation from hop creep after dry hopping. A spunding valve will help a lot to get the carbonation level right, but, you don’t want to let much blow off through the valve to preserve as much of that aroma as possible. It’s a balancing act finding the right amount of priming sugar.
that's why i was thinking to definitely use cbc/f2. if i rehydrate them before dumping in they'd be healthy and awake and looking for simple sugars, and i'd bet they'd be able to metabolize them without stalling out and leaving diacetyl since you'd also add dextrose.

so when you say the priming sugar is tricky to dial in, is that just in general for keg usage, or specifically in cases of hop creep?
 
that's why i was thinking to definitely use cbc/f2. they'd be healthy and awake and looking for simple sugars, and i'd bet they'd be able to metabolize them without stalling out and leaving diacetyl. especially if you added priming sugar.

so when you say the priming sugar is tricky to dial in, is that just in general, or specifically in cases of hop creep?

That is specifically when dealing with hop creep.
theoretically, but at home i rarely have more than one batch going at a time. i'd think saving some wort from the kettle might work, although i'd be diluting my nice dry hopped beer with wort that only got WP hops. whereas sugar would take up less volume in the keg as well as not "dilute" the hop charge. havent actually done this yet, so its all theoretical.



that's why i was thinking to definitely use cbc/f2. if i rehydrate them before dumping in they'd be healthy and awake and looking for simple sugars, and i'd bet they'd be able to metabolize them without stalling out and leaving diacetyl since you'd also add dextrose.

so when you say the priming sugar is tricky to dial in, is that just in general for keg usage, or specifically in cases of hop creep?

I’m saying priming sugar is hard to dial in with hop creep when using the primary strain. I haven’t used CBC1 enough to see how it responds after a soft crash dry hop. The limited amount I’ve used it, diacetyl wasn’t an issue and hop creep didn’t seem to affect the carbonation level too much. The times I’ve naturally carbed with the primary strain after a soft crash & dry hop I’ve had some mild malt to significantly over carbed beer.

Again, once you know how to adjust for it, it’s manageable. I just don’t usually brew NEIPA’s enough to dial that in.
 
That is specifically when dealing with hop creep.


I’m saying priming sugar is hard to dial in with hop creep when using the primary strain. I haven’t used CBC1 enough to see how it responds after a soft crash dry hop. The limited amount I’ve used it, diacetyl wasn’t an issue and hop creep didn’t seem to affect the carbonation level too much. The times I’ve naturally carbed with the primary strain after a soft crash & dry hop I’ve had some mild malt to significantly over carbed beer.

Again, once you know how to adjust for it, it’s manageable. I just don’t usually brew NEIPA’s enough to dial that in.
gotcha. i think i'll go ahead and try it out with the cbc/f2 and dextrose. did you just use a regular priming calculator like for bottling?
 
gotcha. i think i'll go ahead and try it out with the cbc/f2 and dextrose. did you just use a regular priming calculator like for bottling?

I calculate it based on sugar weight by volume. You get about .51 volumes of Co2 per additional gravity point. I can't find my reference to that off the top of me head, but it was something from The Beerery/Low Oxygen Brewing website.

There are two tricks. One is figuring out how much Co2 is remaining in solution after fermentation/dry hopping. If dry hopping post soft crashing, I usually assume zero Co2 left, because dry hops dislodge a lot of Co2 from solution due to the additional nucleation points.

The second is figuring out how much additional attenuation you will get from hop creep. This is very hard to predict and varies based on hop variety/quantity/dry hop length/hop freshness/etc...

Assuming zero residual Co2 from fermentation, that means you need 5 gravity points to get to 2.55 vol Co2. You get some unknown amount of additional fermentation from hop creep (if dry hopping post soft crash). I assume 2 points, but it usually ends up being more than that. I usually shoot to add enough sugar to raise the gravity by 3 points. That equates to about 3/4lb of dextrose per 12 gallon batch. If I overshoot, I just serve the beer based using head pressure and no external Co2 until the carb level comes into line.
 
IMG_20200430_155449_3.jpg

Simcoe dry hopped Bell's Hopslam IPA clone. Only one honey bear was hurt in making this baby. Not really a NEIPA but it turns out if you dry hop at over 2oz per gallon, this is what your beer will look like.

This is the first time I dry hopped loose, and the results are day and night. From a medium haze (that my usual NEIPA has) to full on orange juice, even though this beer doesn't have any oats or wheat. This is where my question comes in, does anyone else use muslin bags to a good degree? Loose hops seem to clog everything when I transfer...

Grist: 2-row, Vienna, C40, honey. Full disclosure, I accidentally forgot to drop in whirlfloc.

Which NEIPA hops are dank and which are fruit forward?

Most breweries use fruit forward hops like your Citra's, Galaxy, Mosaic, Nelson, etc.
A few dank ones I've used and have seen breweries that are fruity, dank, and work in NEIPA: Idaho 7, Amarillo, Simcoe (probably more fruity though), Centennial, and Motueka is a bit of an inbetween.
 
What’s temp are you guys soft crashing to when using A24 dry hop. I lost my notes on it. I was thinking 50 but just wanted to double check.

this is for the 24-36 hr soft crash before Before dry hopping
 
Ive soft crashed to 57, 55, and 50. with my limited experience, as long as I can visualize the beer "clearing" nicely due to remaining yeast dropping out thats all that matters. I've been sticking with 55 degrees lately and holding it for about 20-24hrs.
 
So Im going to give the CItra/Nelson/Galaxy another try. Before I used warrior for bittering only. Also before, I went with equal ratios for Citra/Nelson/Galaxy throughout and perceived that the galaxy drowned out the citra/nelson a little bit so this is my attempt at "backing" off of the galaxy a little to get more of an equal expression of Citra/Nelson/Galaxy. Open to suggestions on this hop schedule. Ive been enjoying Columbus a lot lately too which is why I brought it into the fold beyond the bittering charge. The beer is a low double NEIPA with an OG of 1.072 and estimated to finish at 1.015 ~7.6%ABV. WP temp is 150 throughout. DH times represent # of days prior to cold crashing. Using A24 yeast on this one.

Any/All thoughts on hop schedule (all measurements in ounces) are definitely appreciated! Be kind or cruel - I got thick skin lol. Open to suggestions

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In my opinion you’d be much better off moving some of those WP hops into the dry hop. Most commercial examples of this style are hitting what translates to 12oz of DH at a minimum for a double IPA of this style. I’d add 4oz all at once for your WP and add the rest to the DH plus more. The amount of hop character that makes it into the final beer is more efficiently achieved with dry hopping vs WP.
 
In my opinion you’d be much better off moving some of those WP hops into the dry hop. Most commercial examples of this style are hitting what translates to 12oz of DH at a minimum for a double IPA of this style. I’d add 4oz all at once for your WP and add the rest to the DH plus more. The amount of hop character that makes it into the final beer is more efficiently achieved with dry hopping vs WP.

Have you noticed a difference between your beers with 6, 8, 10, 12 oz dry hop?
 
I'm going to play devils advocate here. I have gotten killer aroma with only 6oz dry hops, 2oz of those were in the keg. However this was an all Citra beer with 6oz WP and 6oz dry hop. Beer was amazing for two months start/finish. Granted Citra is known as one of the Banger hops at 13.3AA!

With this said my next batch i plan on testing this theory using a smaller 4oz WP and 11oz worth of Dry hops. I'm typically around 6-8oz max in the DH. It seems many great recipe's in here use more hops in the dry hop than WP. I will report back in a month!
 
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I'm going to play devils advocate here. I have gotten killer aroma with only 6oz dry hops, 2oz of those were in the keg. However this was an all Citra beer with 6oz WP and 6oz dry hop. Beer was amazing for two months start/finish.

With that said my next batch i plan on testing this theory using a smaller 4oz WP and 11oz worth of Dry hops. I'm typically around 6-8oz max. It seems many great recipe's in here use more hops in the dry hop than WP. I will report back in a month!

SOP for me for a 5-gallon batch is:

Kettle: CO2 extract
WP: 2 or 3 oz
DH: 6 or 5 oz

8 oz total for WP and DH combined. This is roughly consistent with what JC Tetreault recommended several years ago.

Beers haven't been lacking in aroma/flavor...but I will experiment with more...
 
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