Yeah that’s uncomfortably long especially with a small batch. What was the date on your yeast?Did a 2.5 gallon batch on Monday and pitched with Gigayeast Vermont IPA. Didn’t see any activity til Wednesday afternoon. Longest two days of my life
You may need some counselingDid a 2.5 gallon batch on Monday and pitched with Gigayeast Vermont IPA. Didn’t see any activity til Wednesday afternoon. Longest two days of my life
Did a 2.5 gallon batch on Monday and pitched with Gigayeast Vermont IPA. Didn’t see any activity til Wednesday afternoon. Longest two days of my life
Has anyone experimented with any of the genetically engineered yeast strains out there similar to what Berkley brewing science is making?
Yeah I’d definitely have to plan it pretty nicely...or just keep the empty keg cold. I do think it would be different but I’m not opposed to trying a “light” pale ale or blonde to see what it might do. Even if 6oz became 2-3 of effective dry hop I think it might be interesting. I would just rack it into the nicely purged keg (from serving) similar to reusing a keg for similar styles(granted I have not done this)Yeah but I think those reused hops could potentially provide a different character to the beer. I’ve contemplated it but it hasn’t really worked it’s way into the rotation. I might try dumping most of the hops out of the fermenter and saving the last bit and putting a beer on top. We’ll see.
So Im thinking of revisiting a citra/nelson/galaxy NEIPA I brewed a little while ago. I used 1:1:1 ratios throughout and warrior for bittering charge. But with the oil content of the galaxy being so high (Im assuming it was because of this) in comparison to citra and nelson, the galaxy seemed to dominate and I didn't get the other hops to bring what they have to the table as much. Ive previously brewed 1:1:1 with citra/mosaic/galaxy and didn't seem to have this issue though. So what ratios has anyone who's used this hop combo use on both hot side and cold side?
I think it’s too early to make a call on the beer yet. Idk if anyone else experiences this but both mosaic and Galaxy take a little bit of conditioning time to start showing their true characteristics. Especially mosaic. I did a single hop mosaic beer last year. For the first two weeks it was very dank and earth forward with fruit on the back ends. After 4 weeks that beer showcased all those beautiful blueberry/mango notes with a great supporting notes of dank/earth.I just kegged a 2:1:1 of Citra, Mosaic and Galaxy. It is still pretty green, but the Citra is pretty dominate (kind of obvious...). So, I think the 1:1:1 of each would be more balanced.
I think it’s too early to make a call on the beer yet. Idk if anyone else experiences this but both mosaic and Galaxy take a little bit of conditioning time to start showing their true characteristics. Especially mosaic. I did a single hop mosaic beer last year. For the first two weeks it was very dank and earth forward with fruit on the back ends. After 4 weeks that beer showcased all those beautiful blueberry/mango notes with a great supporting notes of dank/earth.
Mosaic is super pungent imho. It easily dominates. More so then galaxy. Citra is a very versatile hop that blends well as a base.Yeah, possibly. I am getting a lot of lemon/lime, orange right now. Will update.
Can you use some krausening from another beer in a fv?so im curious to know if anybody is having success using a natural carbonation process on hazy type beers? or really any hop-heavy type beers i guess....
i know some folks will dry hop with points remaining, but i've always preferred to drop the yeast before i hop, so not convinced i wanna go down that route. im thinking more along the lines of adding spiesse or just priming sugar and a carbing yeast like cbc or f2 into the keg. now, i always come back to the thought that the yeast will pull out hop oils, but maybe the conditioning yeasts arent as likely to do that vs regular yeasts?
anybody tried this?
so im curious to know if anybody is having success using a natural carbonation process on hazy type beers? or really any hop-heavy type beers i guess....
i know some folks will dry hop with points remaining, but i've always preferred to drop the yeast before i hop, so not convinced i wanna go down that route. im thinking more along the lines of adding spiesse or just priming sugar and a carbing yeast like cbc or f2 into the keg. now, i always come back to the thought that the yeast will pull out hop oils, but maybe the conditioning yeasts arent as likely to do that vs regular yeasts?
anybody tried this?
theoretically, but at home i rarely have more than one batch going at a time. i'd think saving some wort from the kettle might work, although i'd be diluting my nice dry hopped beer with wort that only got WP hops. whereas sugar would take up less volume in the keg as well as not "dilute" the hop charge. havent actually done this yet, so its all theoretical.Can you use some krausening from another beer in a fv?
that's why i was thinking to definitely use cbc/f2. if i rehydrate them before dumping in they'd be healthy and awake and looking for simple sugars, and i'd bet they'd be able to metabolize them without stalling out and leaving diacetyl since you'd also add dextrose.I naturally carb all of my highly hopped beers in the keg to help prevent oxidation. Sometimes I use the primary yeast (with or without a soft crash), sometimes I’ll soft crash and add CBC-1 with priming sugar.
I haven’t noticed much/if any detriment to hop aroma but have seen vastly improved shelf life. You’re carbonating in a sealed vessel, so aren’t scrubbing aroma through the airlock.
You just need to be aware of the additional attenuation from hop creep after dry hopping. A spunding valve will help a lot to get the carbonation level right, but, you don’t want to let much blow off through the valve to preserve as much of that aroma as possible. It’s a balancing act finding the right amount of priming sugar.
that's why i was thinking to definitely use cbc/f2. they'd be healthy and awake and looking for simple sugars, and i'd bet they'd be able to metabolize them without stalling out and leaving diacetyl. especially if you added priming sugar.
so when you say the priming sugar is tricky to dial in, is that just in general, or specifically in cases of hop creep?
theoretically, but at home i rarely have more than one batch going at a time. i'd think saving some wort from the kettle might work, although i'd be diluting my nice dry hopped beer with wort that only got WP hops. whereas sugar would take up less volume in the keg as well as not "dilute" the hop charge. havent actually done this yet, so its all theoretical.
that's why i was thinking to definitely use cbc/f2. if i rehydrate them before dumping in they'd be healthy and awake and looking for simple sugars, and i'd bet they'd be able to metabolize them without stalling out and leaving diacetyl since you'd also add dextrose.
so when you say the priming sugar is tricky to dial in, is that just in general for keg usage, or specifically in cases of hop creep?
gotcha. i think i'll go ahead and try it out with the cbc/f2 and dextrose. did you just use a regular priming calculator like for bottling?That is specifically when dealing with hop creep.
I’m saying priming sugar is hard to dial in with hop creep when using the primary strain. I haven’t used CBC1 enough to see how it responds after a soft crash dry hop. The limited amount I’ve used it, diacetyl wasn’t an issue and hop creep didn’t seem to affect the carbonation level too much. The times I’ve naturally carbed with the primary strain after a soft crash & dry hop I’ve had some mild malt to significantly over carbed beer.
Again, once you know how to adjust for it, it’s manageable. I just don’t usually brew NEIPA’s enough to dial that in.
gotcha. i think i'll go ahead and try it out with the cbc/f2 and dextrose. did you just use a regular priming calculator like for bottling?
Which NEIPA hops are dank and which are fruit forward?
In my opinion you’d be much better off moving some of those WP hops into the dry hop. Most commercial examples of this style are hitting what translates to 12oz of DH at a minimum for a double IPA of this style. I’d add 4oz all at once for your WP and add the rest to the DH plus more. The amount of hop character that makes it into the final beer is more efficiently achieved with dry hopping vs WP.
I'm going to play devils advocate here. I have gotten killer aroma with only 6oz dry hops, 2oz of those were in the keg. However this was an all Citra beer with 6oz WP and 6oz dry hop. Beer was amazing for two months start/finish.
With that said my next batch i plan on testing this theory using a smaller 4oz WP and 11oz worth of Dry hops. I'm typically around 6-8oz max. It seems many great recipe's in here use more hops in the dry hop than WP. I will report back in a month!