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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Alright here was a first for me; A no boil, DME Double NEIPA

Name: Johnny Cash (rule breaker)

Fermetables;
6lbs Pilsner Lite DME
3 lbs Golden Lite DME
1 lbs Bav. Whear
2 lbs flaked Barley steeped @160

All 2018 mosaic hops from YVH

dechlorinated tap water and made adjustments (this was the wrong call I’ll elaborate later in this post)

Brew day was 2 hours in total will chilling and clean up. Which was awesome since I have a 5 month year old and a first time dad lol

Yeast: Omega 091 - Horn. Kviek
OG: 1.081
FG: 1.014
Abv: 8.79%
Extract to glass in 8 days. Beer hit FG in 52 hours though.

Steeped flaked Barley for 30 at 160

Brought wort to 180* for 30 mins for a 5 oz whirlpool and to pasteurized.

Cooled to 100*f and pitch 1/2 pack of kviek. Over built a starter with the other 1/2 for future use

Soft crashed to 50* to drop yeast 36 hours. Warmed to 60;

1st dryhop 3 days til keg 2.5 oz Mosiac pellet & 1 oz cryo

2nd dryhop the same 1.5 days til kegging
______________________________

Impression;
This is actually a good beer, it’s not great but certainly something you can do in a pinch for an upcoming party or event.

Mouthfeel is not quite there. I probably should have used carapils verse flaked since it’s not a mash and I completely overlooked the lack of enzyme creation in flaked grains since they are not malted. I also overlooked water chem. I adjusted my water as I was brewing an all-grain beer and totally didn’t think about that Briess adjusts their mash when making extract until afterwards. There is a touch of over mineralization and leans more towards S04 and calcium IMHO. flavor is good but anyone who has ever used quite a bit of Mosiac knows what I mean when I say, there’s a little too much Mosiac in it (but as a single hop I should have expected this). I will definitely be working on this again down the road because I truly believe it can be a great beer if I make the proper revisions.
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Very cool - you’ve got me inspired to try a similar experiment.

Dissolve DME at 160 in all RO, steep 1 lb of malted wheat and 1 lb of malted oats for 30. Bring to 180 and add 6-7oz of bagged hops. No chill. Dump the whole thing into SS bucket to cool overnight with the hops.
At 95-100C, pull the hop bag, squeeze it out(!), pitch a tsp of kveik.
At FG drop the yeast a dry hop as usual and keg etc etc.

Are we getting lazier or smarter?
 
View attachment 637579

2019 Galaxy from Yakima Valley....
All Galaxy...Emily:

2.5 gallon batch
5 gallon total volume

Ca: 60
Mg: 5
Na: 40
Cl: 100
So4: 100

R.O. Water

80% Rahr 2-row
15% White Wheat Malt
5% C20

156 mash for 30 min
160 mash for 30 min

5.35 mash ph
170 mash out

Adjusted to 5.2 pre-boil ph

.65oz. Galaxy at 60 min for 58.2 IBU's

.6 grams Whirlfloc at 0 min
3 oz. Galaxy at 0 min

Chilled to pitching temp
Aerated
1318 2nd gen starter pitched

O.G. of 1.065
F.G. of 1.016

10 days ferment

Day 3....Dry hopped at 1.20...2 oz. Galaxy
Cold crash to 58 for three days

Transferred off yeast into purged keg.
Dry hopped with 3 oz. Galaxy at 62 for two days

Crashed for 4 days at 40.
Transferred to purged serving keg to carb at 44 degrees @ 14.5 psi for 2.5 volumes.

Dank....passion fruit....creamy....herbal....tight bitterness. Soft.
Did the galaxy come with a lot nr to check data with yakima tools?
 
apparently cal ale can ferment at 60F... i did a soft crash to 60F for 5 days, dry hopped and my beer is vigorously fermenting again. oh well...
 
I have been following this thread for some time now so I thought I would share my experience. 2 1/2 weeks ago I was planning a brew using the Two Hearted ale clone grain bill and method but changing the hops to Citra and Amarillo. Then I wondered what would happen if I took the same grain bill, added some flaked oats and used a hopping schedule similar to what you all have been discussing. It worked out very nice and is tasting very good. This after carbing in bottles for 4 days at around 80 degrees F. It should get better over the next couple weeks. Honestly I was a little surprised it carbed as well as it did in that short time but I guess that is due to the warm temperature.
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It is actually yellower than the picture looks due to lighting.
Start with 6.2 gallons water
4 gallons into fermenter
60 min mash at 152, BIAB
1.064 down to 1.013

7.25 lb, 68% pale 2 row 1.8L
27 oz, 16.7% German Vienna 4L
15 oz, 8.7% Flaked Oats (Quaker quick)
8 oz, 4.7% Carmel 10L
5 oz, 2.9% CaraFoam 1.8L

10g Amarillo FWH
15g each Amarillo and Citra at flame out down to 170 over 10 min
28g each A&C at 165 for 10 min
28g each A&C dry hop for 5 days after fermentation finished.
Imperial Juice at mid 60's, after 4 days up to upper 60's

I don't have CO so I did not do any crashing. Bottled at 69F
I bottled directly from primary into bottles with 1/2 tsp table sugar each.
Filled bottles to 1/2 inch below rim and used oxygen absorbing caps.
 
in reference to @Dgallo 's fermentation vessel, I built one over the weekend and threw in a batch of A24 fermenting wort. A few things I learned about building one of these and what they do under pressure.

1. I decided to use the floating dip tube, and bought a "pressure kit" for a fermentasaurus because it had the gas and liquid ball lock towers for less than piecing one together.
2. The fermonster PET container's floor "bows out" under 15 psi. This caused it to rock in my mini fridge (I got kicked out of the larger fridge in the basement by my wife so I had to source a new temp controller) and kick open the door. I was around to fix this.
3. Due to the shape of the fermonster changing under pressure, I need to cut and design a round "mount" with a hole in the middle. This will support the vessel when the floor of it balloons out.
4. I decided to dry hop it this morning. Gravity has dropped to 1.052 from 1.062, and the yeast is rolling. Pressure is steady at 15psi.... what do you think happened? I wasn't thinking and after blowing off the pressure I pulled the lid, at which the krausen decided to "boil over" the lid, causing the dry hops I just tossed in and the yeast to gunk up the o-ring of the lid. Cleaning this quickly with sanitizer was a trick further complicated by the floating dip tube.
5. If you are planning on building a fermonster based pressure vessel, do not get one with the spigot at the bottom. This container will not tolerate any holes in the side of it under pressure.

There is finesse with a pressure vessel like this. Sealing the ball lock posts is easy. Use sanitizer water to test your work (leaks bubble the water under pressure). Also check your spunding valve for leaks (I made it from these parts sourced from either this thread or another one, and it works quite well)
Pressure gauge
1/4" Tee
1/4" Flare to NPT for the ball lock post
Adjustable pressure valve

I use this in conjunction with a Fermentrack raspberry pi based controller with a Wemos based iSpindel wireless hydrometer in the vessel. This plus a mini fridge and IR heating bulb are a great economical alternative to a Flex+ or CF5 plus glycol systems, which I dream about someday doing.

Big thanks to @Dgallo and @Loud Brewing for the info for this build.

20190728_225030.jpg
 
Last edited:
in reference to @Dgallo 's fermentation vessel, I built one over the weekend and threw in a batch of A24 fermenting wort. A few things I learned about building one of these and what they do under pressure.

1. I decided to use the floating dip tube, and bought a "pressure kit" for a fermentasaurus because it had the gas and liquid ball lock towers for less than piecing one together.
2. The fermonster PET container's floor "bows out" under 15 psi. This caused it to rock in my mini fridge (I got kicked out of the larger fridge in the basement by my wife so I had to source a new temp controller) and kick open the door. I was around to fix this.
3. Due to the shape of the fermonster changing under pressure, I need to cut and design a round "mount" with a hole in the middle. This will support the vessel when the floor of it balloons out.
4. I decided to dry hop it this morning. Gravity has dropped to 1.052 from 1.062, and the yeast is rolling. Pressure is steady at 15psi.... what do you think happened? I wasn't thinking and after blowing off the pressure I pulled the lid, at which the krausen decided to "boil over" the lid, causing the dry hops I just tossed in and the yeast to gunk up the o-ring of the lid. Cleaning this quickly with sanitizer was a trick further complicated by the floating dip tube.
5. If you are planning on building a fermonster based pressure vessel, do not get one with the spigot at the bottom. This container will not tolerate any holes in the side of it under pressure.

There is finesse with a pressure vessel like this. Sealing the ball lock posts is easy. Use sanitizer water to test your work (leaks bubble the water under pressure). Also check your spunding valve for leaks (I made it from these parts sourced from either this thread or another one, and it works quite well)
Pressure gauge
1/4" Tee
1/4" Flare to NPT for the ball lock post
Adjustable pressure valve

I use this in conjunction with a Fermentrack raspberry pi based controller with a Wemos based iSpindel wireless hydrometer in the vessel. This plus a mini fridge and IR heating bulb are a great economical alternative to a Flex+ or CF5 plus glycol systems, which I dream about someday doing.

Big thanks to @Dgallo and @Loud Brewing for the info for this build.

View attachment 637866
Any specific reason you’re keeping the pressure so high during fermentation?
 
Any specific reason you’re keeping the pressure so high during fermentation?

I've got a deadline on this beer. 8 days into a keg and cans for a work trip where I'm seeing an old friend. I wish I had gone Kveik on this to plow through it, but didn't get a good line on sourcing it in time. So I'm rolling this at A24's peak of 74F and praying for a day or two to settle it out at 64F.

So the idea is to carbonate it while fermenting. And keep it that way through the 2-3 day keg dry hop (depending on when the gravity finishes out).
 
I've got a deadline on this beer. 8 days into a keg and cans for a work trip where I'm seeing an old friend. I wish I had gone Kveik on this to plow through it, but didn't get a good line on sourcing it in time. So I'm rolling this at A24's peak of 74F and praying for a day or two to settle it out at 64F.

So the idea is to carbonate it while fermenting. And keep it that way through the 2-3 day keg dry hop (depending on when the gravity finishes out).
Gotcha. I think you’re better off removing the spunding valve and letting it ferment without pressure. Fermenting under pressure higher than 5 psi makes the yeast work slower and produces less esters. Or run it even hotter, say 78-80 so it speeds up under pressure.
 
I'll check the gravity when I get home. If it's not on a path to completion in the next few days, I'll jack the temperature. I think I'll leave it at 15psi and see how A24 reacts. Unfortunately, this is the first time I've used this yeast, so I don't have a baseline to compare it to yet.

Thank you for this info.
 
I'll check the gravity when I get home. If it's not on a path to completion in the next few days, I'll jack the temperature. I think I'll leave it at 15psi and see how A24 reacts. Unfortunately, this is the first time I've used this yeast, so I don't have a baseline to compare it to yet.

Thank you for this info.
If my memory serves me well, pressure above 5psi is deadly to yeast.
 
If my memory serves me well, pressure above 5psi is deadly to yeast.

got a source for that? Hard to believe when it's floccing well and eating so much. If I go home and it's a dead vessel, I'll believe you. But at 15 psi this morning that thing was roaring.
 
got a source for that? Hard to believe when it's floccing well and eating so much. If I go home and it's a dead vessel, I'll believe you. But at 15 psi this morning that thing was roaring.

Depends on the yeast strain I’d bet.

The white labs strain says to ferment at 1 bar (~15 psi), so clearly not all yeast die at that pressure.

With that said, my impression of high pressure fermentation, was to be able to use lager yeast at warm temps without ester formation and faster fermenting. I don’t think you want lower esters in your NE IPA though? And I don’t think it will speed up a regular ale yeast, maybe at 80-90F?
 
So far it's been fermenting at a linear rate, similar to 1318. If it slows I'll ramp the temperature 10 deg every day until it stops. I'll halt at approx 90F. I don't have time to screw around with this one

I'm down from 1.063 to 1.042 on 36 hours of active fermentation. 24 of it ripping.

I'm not to worried so far. The Ester production may be down but I'll need to brew a normal A24 batch to compare it to. I just want this well carbed as soon as it is out of dry hop.
 

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So, I posted a question about GABF a couple of weeks back... Turns out I missed the presale cutoff for AHA members. Would anyone be kind enough to share you code if you’re not going this year?
 
I too, like @leesmith didnt get any hop bite from 2019 Galaxy from Yakima. I really think it was a solid crop. Hopped at a lower rate than him since it was a single hop pale ale, but it had great passion fruit notes and not overripe or past ripe notes that I’ve gotten in the past from galaxy.

Likewise on 19 galaxy from Yak. Incredible aroma, no burn, with only a small amount in dry hop along with some mosaic.
 
waiting on my 2019 galaxy from YVH for my next batch, with all this dry hop talk i was thinking of dry hopping them loose. I have always bagged them, but wanted to try to get better utilization with the fresh stuff. I just wanted to know how you guys who do dry hop loose remove them. What works good. I dont want to screw it up. I typically dry hop for only 3 days. I use a conical FV so it should help with removal. I have always been nervous to try this way. Please any tips that work good or a link to a past thread on this.
 
I wouldn't try dry hopping loose unless you can soft/cold crash (without air infiltration) the hops out of suspension. You might be cursing life if you try it warm and your setup clogs.

waiting on my 2019 galaxy from YVH for my next batch, with all this dry hop talk i was thinking of dry hopping them loose. I have always bagged them, but wanted to try to get better utilization with the fresh stuff. I just wanted to know how you guys who do dry hop loose remove them. What works good. I dont want to screw it up. I typically dry hop for only 3 days. I use a conical FV so it should help with removal. I have always been nervous to try this way. Please any tips that work good or a link to a past thread on this.
 
waiting on my 2019 galaxy from YVH for my next batch, with all this dry hop talk i was thinking of dry hopping them loose. I have always bagged them, but wanted to try to get better utilization with the fresh stuff. I just wanted to know how you guys who do dry hop loose remove them. What works good. I dont want to screw it up. I typically dry hop for only 3 days. I use a conical FV so it should help with removal. I have always been nervous to try this way. Please any tips that work good or a link to a past thread on this.

I would dry hop loose in the keg (with a CBDS type setup that draws from the top of the liquid) IF you can’t control head pressure.
 
waiting on my 2019 galaxy from YVH for my next batch, with all this dry hop talk i was thinking of dry hopping them loose. I have always bagged them, but wanted to try to get better utilization with the fresh stuff. I just wanted to know how you guys who do dry hop loose remove them. What works good. I dont want to screw it up. I typically dry hop for only 3 days. I use a conical FV so it should help with removal. I have always been nervous to try this way. Please any tips that work good or a link to a past thread on this.

I've started doing loose dry hopping in kegs. Earlier in this thread, someone suggested a filter for the dip tube. I bought this filter on amazon, cut a hole in the top of it (the lid) for the dip tube, and trimmed a keg's dip tube by about 2 cm. I slide the dip tube into this filter as I assemble it into the keg.

I made a liquid-to-liquid ball lock line which I used to transfer the beer from kegs. I will use that same line to transfer it out of my fermonster vessel now. I have done two batches with about 4-6oz of loose pellet dry hops in kegs, and haven't had a clog yet.
 
I wouldn't try dry hopping loose unless you can soft/cold crash (without air infiltration) the hops out of suspension. You might be cursing life if you try it warm and your setup clogs.

yeah i can soft crash under pressure to prevent O2 suckback during the chilling. Is 50*F low enough for the soft crash, thats what i have been doing to drop yeast out.

I can put upto 35psi on my new fermzilla fermentor, what psi do you guys use when dry hopping.

Another question: When you soft crash how long does it take for the hops to drop to the bottom of your conical before you can dump them?
 
I can only get to about 42/45 without having to use a lot of Co2 when crashing in the SS Chronicals. I never bag my dry hops.

As long as you have a rotating racking arm you should be fine. I usually give it 48 hours at 45 or so and have almost no issues with clogging. Just rotate the racking arm up slightly and dump some beer until it seems free of debris then attach your well purged line to the keg and transfer. I will usually dump some hops/grub through the dump valve a few times before transferring. Depends on how big your dry hop load is. I’ve probably done 12oz in 6 gallons a few times with no issues.
 
yeah i can soft crash under pressure to prevent O2 suckback during the chilling. Is 50*F low enough for the soft crash, thats what i have been doing to drop yeast out.

I can put upto 35psi on my new fermzilla fermentor, what psi do you guys use when dry hopping.

Another question: When you soft crash how long does it take for the hops to drop to the bottom of your conical before you can dump them?
Like 2 psi. Just to keep surface pressure.

I soft crash at 50 or a little lower and it works fine. I dont like dryhoping at 50 personally. 60-65 is where i aim.

At 50 the hops seem to drop out well before I feel they are fully extracted. So yeah at 50 they’ll drop out
 
After reading through a bunch of this thread (and numerous others), I'm planning on taking a first crack at one of these - how does the following recipe look? Some quick thoughts: The Victory and Carahell are intended to add just a touch of color and flavor (I like the slightly orange color, hopefully), and the hops are primarily based on what I have around with the intent of having both tropical and citrus notes.

Thanks for all of the information/discussion here everyone!
---
NEIPA 1
Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal
Estimated OG: 1.059 SG
Estimated Color: 4.7 SRM
Estimated IBU: 31.6 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 72.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 85.1 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes
Mash: 151 F for 60 min. Estimated pH = 5.31
Yeast: WLP051

GRIST
9 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Malt, 2-Row (Rahr) - 77.6 %
1 lbs Wheat, Flaked - 8.2 %
1 lbs White Wheat Malt (Cargill) - 8.2 %
6.0 oz Carahell (10.0 SRM) - 3.1 %
6.0 oz Victory Malt (25.0 SRM) - 3.1 %

HOPS
Boil (60 min)
0.70 oz Horizon [12.80 %] - 26.8 IBUs

Whirlpool (20 min @ 160 F)
2.00 oz Amarillo [8.10 %]
1.50 oz Mosaic [10.69 %]
1.00 oz Centennial [6.00 %]
1.00 oz Chinook [11.60 %]
0.30 oz Horizon [12.80 %]

Dry Hop (2-3 days into fermentation)
2.00 oz Amarillo [8.10 %]
1.50 oz Mosaic [10.69 %]
1.00 oz Centennial [6.00 %]
1.00 oz Chinook [11.60 %]

WATER (RO, built to following):
Ca 79
Mg 13
Na 23
SO4 125
Cl 118
HCO3 NA
- .5 ml/gal 50% phosphoric acid will be added to mash as well to reach estimated pH above.
 
Like 2 psi. Just to keep surface pressure.

I soft crash at 50 or a little lower and it works fine. I dont like dryhoping at 50 personally. 60-65 is where i aim.

At 50 the hops seem to drop out well before I feel they are fully extracted. So yeah at 50 they’ll drop out

Good to know thanks guys, I think I will give it a shot. I have some confidence in this now.

Here is a little twist I discovered when cleaning out the new fermenter. Do you fellas think that this will step up my dry hop game any? I am able to create slight movement when running my weak a$$ stir plate inside the fermzilla fermenter. What is everyone’s thoughts. I know some pro breweries stir there hops. This is kinda the same on a home brew level.
 

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Good to know thanks guys, I think I will give it a shot. I have some confidence in this now.

Here is a little twist I discovered when cleaning out the new fermenter. Do you fellas think that this will step up my dry hop game any? I am able to create slight movement when running my weak a$$ stir plate inside the fermzilla fermenter. What is everyone’s thoughts. I know some pro breweries stir there hops. This is kinda the same on a home brew level.
should help with faster extraction. That being said unless you’re pulling the yeast off you’d be re suspending the yeast.

My only question is, when you open the valve for the jar, will the air in the jar enter the fermenter? If so, it will add o2 to your environment. I know this was a flaw with the fermontisorus
 
That amount of Columbus should have given some dank, so it’s possible its old(getting to the end of last year’s crop) or the lot it came from didn’t produce a lot of dank. That’s a shame. Glad it came out good though
Dude I gotta say. After leaving this for a bit the dankness is coming through a bit more both on the aroma and flavor side. I think it's pretty darn close to what I was looking for! Might try playing with the ratios and perhaps adding Columbus to the dry hop.
 

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