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American IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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beervoid

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I had to go look at my notes. I brewed this at the end of May and have brewed a ton of beers since so things were a bit foggy.

Grain Bill was just: Rahr 2row, 8% Munich, 2% Honey, 2% Acidulated. (No dextrose or Vienna)

90 minute boil
Nugget @ 60
Mosaic/4337 @ 10
Mosaic, Simcoe, 4337 WP
98 “theoretical” IBUs

“Hop creep
3oz Am/Cent blend
1.5oz 4437

Final DH after soft crashing to 55 was 6oz 4337.
Left at 55 for two days then slowly cool to 39 and remove hops

1.066/1.0125

I use Vermont Ale from The Yeast Bay most of the time. Of all the commercial variants of this yeast I find this one to flocculate the best and the easiest to work with. I’ve messed around with the Bell’s yeast strain and lately Old Newark Ale from East Coast Yeast which is supposedly the Ballantine’s strain.

However I’m probably going back to just using Vermont Ale for everything. I’ve used just about every strain under the sun and for me it tends to produces the beers I want to make. I ferment it on the colder side as I’m not looking for tons of yeast esters. I think it does convert certain hop compounds to fruitier flavors/aromas. I’ve done a few side by sides lately with ECY10 and the hop profile is always just generically “fruitier” even fermented cold with VT Ale. I don’t like the overly soft/sweet LAIII profile at all. I really don’t like it when people ferment it warm either. The esters trample the hops. Personally I’m more interested in letting the hops themselves really shine through. in my personal experience VT Ale does that the best of all the English yeasts I’ve used without creating any “distracting” flavors or aromas. Plus you can ferment it at 56 and make a bangin Kolsch.
Escarpment did free wbinars and talked about how vermont ale can sometimes clear up. It is really dependent on generation and nutritional needs. Perhaps thats why it was clear?
For a 10.5oz dry hop charge I would expect more haze.
 

couchsending

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Escarpment did free wbinars and talked about how vermont ale can sometimes clear up. It is really dependent on generation and nutritional needs. Perhaps thats why it was clear?
For a 10.5oz dry hop charge I would expect more haze.
It definitely was the not best of ferments, hence the need for the charge at the end of fermentation to try to help attenuation. Could have something to do with it. That being said it’s been in the keg for a long time and it’s no clearer than it was after week 2. Just lightly hazy. Nothing in the grain bill to aid in haze either.
 

optimal_pizza

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Here's my latest batch using S33. First time using it I fermented at 62 and turned out OK, this time I went for 67. One of my better attempts at a hazy. CTZ in boil, CTZ, Citra, Vic Secret in WP and DH. S33 is a pretty solid, maybe doesn't live up to the hype on the Fermentis site but give it a shot. Plus it's so cheap, $2.75 and free shipping at labelpeelers.com
IMG_20200801_190713.jpg
 

VirginiaHops1

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Here's my latest batch using S33. First time using it I fermented at 62 and turned out OK, this time I went for 67. One of my better attempts at a hazy. CTZ in boil, CTZ, Citra, Vic Secret in WP and DH. S33 is a pretty solid, maybe doesn't live up to the hype on the Fermentis site but give it a shot. Plus it's so cheap, $2.75 and free shipping at labelpeelers.com
View attachment 692198
I actually just ordered a pack of S-33 in my recent order to use on a hazy. Trying to work my way through all the yeasts.
 

Noob_Brewer

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Here's my latest batch using S33. First time using it I fermented at 62 and turned out OK, this time I went for 67. One of my better attempts at a hazy. CTZ in boil, CTZ, Citra, Vic Secret in WP and DH. S33 is a pretty solid, maybe doesn't live up to the hype on the Fermentis site but give it a shot. Plus it's so cheap, $2.75 and free shipping at labelpeelers.com
View attachment 692198
What kind of esters do ya get? I’ve contemplated an S04, S33 blend as mentioned on the treehouse thread (70% s04 and 30% s33). Just curious what ya got from s33 by itself. Also curious on the attenuation you got with s33 by itself
 

beervoid

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It definitely was the not best of ferments, hence the need for the charge at the end of fermentation to try to help attenuation. Could have something to do with it. That being said it’s been in the keg for a long time and it’s no clearer than it was after week 2. Just lightly hazy. Nothing in the grain bill to aid in haze either.
Did you note ph levels before dry hopping?
Did you add yeast nutrition, and which generation vermont was it?
 

ttuato

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This is oddly genius... Every time I use them in the kitchen they smell somewhat metallic though. Does that ever translate into beer?
@secretlevel

I wash them in hot soapy water first to remove residues and rinse before use. I dont get any metallic smell and have never had that taste in any beers in 30+ brews. This is an old "trick" that I found here somewhere. They are stainless steel so you could through them in PBW too if you are concerned about it.
 

Noob_Brewer

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@secretlevel

I wash them in hot soapy water first to remove residues and rinse before use. I dont get any metallic smell and have never had that taste in any beers in 30+ brews. This is an old "trick" that I found here somewhere. They are stainless steel so you could through them in PBW too if you are concerned about it.
Might have to try this myself. It could be an awesome/cheap solution or a disaster if everything clogs. Either way, I guess it would be epic (epic failure or epic success) lol. I recirculate slowly so should work. Thanks for the tip/trick.
 

couchsending

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Did you note ph levels before dry hopping?
Did you add yeast nutrition, and which generation vermont was it?
I usually take pH measurements of every gravity check I do. I’m sure I have those notes somewhere. I don’t remember. I add yeast nutrients to every batch usually. Was using Servomyces but have now gone to dosing zinc in the fermenter. I’d have to look at the generation. It was higher ABV so it was probably 4 at least.

I was having attenuation issues for a while, couldn’t figure it out. Finally figured out I was milling too fine and not getting enough conversion until the 162 rest I tend to do. i think that might have been the bigger issue with that batch but I honestly cant remember it’s been so long.
 

beervoid

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I usually take pH measurements of every gravity check I do. I’m sure I have those notes somewhere. I don’t remember. I add yeast nutrients to every batch usually. Was using Servomyces but have now gone to dosing zinc in the fermenter. I’d have to look at the generation. It was higher ABV so it was probably 4 at least.

I was having attenuation issues for a while, couldn’t figure it out. Finally figured out I was milling too fine and not getting enough conversion until the 162 rest I tend to do. i think that might have been the bigger issue with that batch but I honestly cant remember it’s been so long.
Ok just curious as if the ferment was slow you might have a less low ph drop.
I really like the vermont ale too personally, but its a finicky yeast to wrap your head around.
 

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My last NEIPA used about 20IBU's of Cascade at 45min, along with an oz of it in the whirl pool (along with 2oz each of Citra, Mosiac and El Dorado) and I felt like the grapefruit-ness of cascade dominated a lot of the flavor surprisingly. I usually use an oz of Centennial along with whatever whirlpool hops and had to sub cascade this time.
 

Noob_Brewer

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My last NEIPA used about 20IBU's of Cascade at 45min, along with an oz of it in the whirl pool (along with 2oz each of Citra, Mosiac and El Dorado) and I felt like the grapefruit-ness of cascade dominated a lot of the flavor surprisingly. I usually use an oz of Centennial along with whatever whirlpool hops and had to sub cascade this time.
Just curious what temps you are running your whirlpool at with these results?
 

ChiknNutz

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Anyone dry hop this recipe during fermentation...meaning right after pitching the yeast?

Completely unrelated, but anyone add lactose, like 1#? Thinking of the milkshake effect perhaps.
 

BongoYodeler

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Anyone dry hop this recipe during fermentation...meaning right after pitching the yeast?
I did, quite by accident, (magnets failed). Dry hops went in within 30 seconds of pitching Voss Kveik. Hop flavor maybe not as bright as it could be, but not bad either. Brewed on a Saturday, kegged 72 hours later.

IMG-0138.jpg
 

BongoYodeler

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You bag your hops and hang them inside the keg during fermentation?
No, inside my 30L plastic Speidel fermenter. Then (the plan was to) slide the magnets down into the beer once fermentation is complete, or almost complete, (the in-fermenter magnets are in a vacuum sealed plastic bag). Unfortunately the magnets failed and the hop sack splashed down as I was putting the lid on after pitching the yeast. I just ordered and received some neodymium magnets from amazon, they arrived yesterday. Those suckers are *powerful* It took a significant amount of effort just to separate them. I don't anticipate the same issue next time.
 

anteater8

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Anyone dry hop this recipe during fermentation...meaning right after pitching the yeast?

Completely unrelated, but anyone add lactose, like 1#? Thinking of the milkshake effect perhaps.
I've used 1 lb and 1.5 lb and I preferred the 1.5 lb. Final gravity was 1.017, mouthfeel was perfect - definitely fuller and creamier than my normal NEIPA's but it was not overly thick or milkshakey.
 

beervoid

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No, inside my 30L plastic Speidel fermenter. Then (the plan was to) slide the magnets down into the beer once fermentation is complete, or almost complete, (the in-fermenter magnets are in a vacuum sealed plastic bag). Unfortunately the magnets failed and the hop sack splashed down as I was putting the lid on after pitching the yeast. I just ordered and received some neodymium magnets from amazon, they arrived yesterday. Those suckers are *powerful* It took a significant amount of effort just to separate them. I don't anticipate the same issue next time.
Interesting technique. I wonder how much aroma would be blown off that way. Def a smart way to dry hop without opening keg.
 

BeerFst

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Interesting technique. I wonder how much aroma would be blown off that way. Def a smart way to dry hop without opening keg.
there's a whole thread on these methods,

 

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Those of you that have used Imperial A24 Dryhop, Is it a very fast fermenter? I used it for the first time Saturday. Pitched at 66F and let it free rise to 72F. Airlock had stopped by Monday night on 1.062 OG. I have not check the gravity yet, just curious? Plan to bump the temp a couple more degrees.
 

HopsAreGood

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I have a beer fermenting right now that I’m debating what to dry hop it with...I hit it with 1oz strata and 1oz Nelson at 10, then 2 oz strata and 2 oz Nelson in a 170 whirlpool. I’m planning to do a 10 oz dry hop and have the following hops on hand. (Minimum of 8 oz for all of them)

Nelson, Strata, Vic Secret, Enigma, El Dorado, Idaho 7, Citra Lupomax, Mosaic Lupomax, Sabro Lupomax. I also have a few ounces of Columbus, Amarillo, Cascade, and a few others.

I’m just curious what all of you think would be interesting/good? I’m interested to see how other people think in terms of recipes and hop bills. Thanks
 

Dgallo

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I have a beer fermenting right now that I’m debating what to dry hop it with...I hit it with 1oz strata and 1oz Nelson at 10, then 2 oz strata and 2 oz Nelson in a 170 whirlpool. I’m planning to do a 10 oz dry hop and have the following hops on hand. (Minimum of 8 oz for all of them)

Nelson, Strata, Vic Secret, Enigma, El Dorado, Idaho 7, Citra Lupomax, Mosaic Lupomax, Sabro Lupomax. I also have a few ounces of Columbus, Amarillo, Cascade, and a few others.

I’m just curious what all of you think would be interesting/good? I’m interested to see how other people think in terms of recipes and hop bills. Thanks
If you’ve never done a Citra and Nelson dryhop before, try that. It’s quite possibly my favorite combo and I feel the LUPOMAX will just elevate it even more
 

couchsending

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Tons of options but sort of depends on the hops themselves....Which ones you think smell the best.. Im sure the LUPOMAX stuff they’ve released so far is all pretty good quality cause they want to get people fired up on the product.

Idaho 7 can be interesting and it can be really earthy/black tea. I did a 60/40 Strata/I7 beer that was really cool. Tasted and smelled like no beer I’d ever had. It was almost like it was brewed with hops from AUS/NZ. Is the Nelson you have really good? Or is it diesely? How’s the Strata? Most everything I’ve bought from YVH has been a bit onion/garlic.
 

HopsAreGood

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Tons of options but sort of depends on the hops themselves....Which ones you think smell the best.. Im sure the LUPOMAX stuff they’ve released so far is all pretty good quality cause they want to get people fired up on the product.

Idaho 7 can be interesting and it can be really earthy/black tea. I did a 60/40 Strata/I7 beer that was really cool. Tasted and smelled like no beer I’d ever had. It was almost like it was brewed with hops from AUS/NZ. Is the Nelson you have really good? Or is it diesely? How’s the Strata? Most everything I’ve bought from YVH has been a bit onion/garlic.
Yeah, definitely a ton of options. All of the listed hops are 2019 YVH and the Lupomax obviously just came out. I can’t say ive gotten any onion/garlic from the strata but the only other time I used it was in a 50/50 dry hop with Citra. Not sure about the Nelson as I haven’t used it yet aside from the 3 hot side ounces in this batch. I’m thinking of maybe using a split of Nelson/Strata/and Citra Lupomax but can’t make up my mind. Too many options to consider.
 

anteater8

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If you’ve never done a Citra and Nelson dryhop before, try that. It’s quite possibly my favorite combo and I feel the LUPOMAX will just elevate it even more
I was already planning this for my next IPA (although it will be west coast), what's your citra/nelson ratio?
 

Dgallo

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I was already planning this for my next IPA (although it will be west coast), what's your citra/nelson ratio?
I’ve done quite a bit of different ratios with them and all were good. I tend to go between 2 or 3 to 1 nelson to Citra, since I want nelson in the lead by just a tad (I base it off total oil ml/100gr). You really can’t go wrong though
 

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NEPA HB2.jpg


First full pint on day 21. Waimea, Southern Star, Barbe Rouge. Waimea definitely best smelling straight out of the bag. After a botched mash (Strike water too high, dropped thermometer into kettle) this 1.064 OG supposed to be IPA finished at a 1.020 Pale Ale.

Grain bill based on Trillium's "Dialed" series. About 70% Pils, 22% Flaked Wheat, 5% Carapils, and about 2 oz of acid malt. First fully closed transfer and that put it over the top above all the other NEIPA's I've done. White Labs 008 East Coast Ale is what I've had the best results with for these beers and curious if anyone else has tried and what their take is compared to the rest of the "normal" yeasts used for the style. Thanks all for the tips, this one will go fast 👍
 
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Fergal

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I have a beer fermenting right now that I’m debating what to dry hop it with...I hit it with 1oz strata and 1oz Nelson at 10, then 2 oz strata and 2 oz Nelson in a 170 whirlpool. I’m planning to do a 10 oz dry hop and have the following hops on hand. (Minimum of 8 oz for all of them)

Nelson, Strata, Vic Secret, Enigma, El Dorado, Idaho 7, Citra Lupomax, Mosaic Lupomax, Sabro Lupomax. I also have a few ounces of Columbus, Amarillo, Cascade, and a few others.

I’m just curious what all of you think would be interesting/good? I’m interested to see how other people think in terms of recipes and hop bills. Thanks
I would stick with Strata & Nelson. I've tried a commercial beer that used that combo and it was excellent.
 

stickyfinger

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abv has little to do with ipa vs pale ale imo. it's all about the hops!

First full pint on day 21. Waimea, Southern Star, Barbe Rouge. Waimea definitely best smelling straight out of the bag. After a botched mash (Strike water too high, dropped thermometer into kettle) this 1.064 OG supposed to be IPA finished at a 1.020 Pale Ale.

Grain bill based on Trillium's "Dialed" series. About 70% Pils, 22% Flaked Wheat, 5% Carapils, and about 2 oz of acid malt. First fully closed transfer and that put it over the top above all the other NEIPA's I've done. White Labs 008 East Coast Ale is what I've had the best results with for these beers and curious if anyone else has tried and what their take is compared to the rest of the "normal" yeasts used for the style. Thanks all for the tips, this one will go fast 👍
 

Frieds

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View attachment 692569

First full pint on day 21. Waimea, Southern Star, Barbe Rouge. Waimea definitely best smelling straight out of the bag. After a botched mash (Strike water too high, dropped thermometer into kettle) this 1.064 OG supposed to be IPA finished at a 1.020 Pale Ale.

Grain bill based on Trillium's "Dialed" series. About 70% Pils, 22% Flaked Wheat, 5% Carapils, and about 2 oz of acid malt. First fully closed transfer and that put it over the top above all the other NEIPA's I've done. White Labs 008 East Coast Ale is what I've had the best results with for these beers and curious if anyone else has tried and what their take is compared to the rest of the "normal" yeasts used for the style. Thanks all for the tips, this one will go fast 👍
I have a packet of 008 in my fridge that I haven’t used yet. What temp do you ferment it at?
 

drewmuni8

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I have a packet of 008 in my fridge that I haven’t used yet. What temp do you ferment it at?
67, then ramped up to 71 slowly after my first FG reading of 1.020 thinking it was stuck around day 7/8. I throw in just a single packet as I'm only doing 2.75 gallon batches and typically works great.
 

secretlevel

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Those of you that have used Imperial A24 Dryhop, Is it a very fast fermenter? I used it for the first time Saturday. Pitched at 66F and let it free rise to 72F. Airlock had stopped by Monday night on 1.062 OG. I have not check the gravity yet, just curious? Plan to bump the temp a couple more degrees.
Yeah, especially if it's fresh or off a starter. It's probably going through D-rest at the moment, check the FG and you're probably close to being done in a couple of days.

View attachment 692569

First full pint on day 21. Waimea, Southern Star, Barbe Rouge. Waimea definitely best smelling straight out of the bag. After a botched mash (Strike water too high, dropped thermometer into kettle) this 1.064 OG supposed to be IPA finished at a 1.020 Pale Ale.

Grain bill based on Trillium's "Dialed" series. About 70% Pils, 22% Flaked Wheat, 5% Carapils, and about 2 oz of acid malt. First fully closed transfer and that put it over the top above all the other NEIPA's I've done. White Labs 008 East Coast Ale is what I've had the best results with for these beers and curious if anyone else has tried and what their take is compared to the rest of the "normal" yeasts used for the style. Thanks all for the tips, this one will go fast 👍
Pfft, that sounds awesome, how's the hop combo altogether? Any standout flavors? This just means you can have more than a couple of these and be fine.

I personally dig high FG on these beers so I usually mash higher on purpose. For me, it helps bring out some of the fun esters and hop flavors. I usually do either 1.065 OG and 1.019 FG for a regular IPA and 1.080 OG, 1.025 FG for a Double IPA. Anyone else like the fuller, sweeter NEIPAs?
 

aaronm13

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Those of you that have used Imperial A24 Dryhop, Is it a very fast fermenter? I used it for the first time Saturday. Pitched at 66F and let it free rise to 72F. Airlock had stopped by Monday night on 1.062 OG. I have not check the gravity yet, just curious? Plan to bump the temp a couple more degrees.
Used it for the firsts time myself and will be kegging it over the next day or two. Yeast was probably finished in about 5 days.
 

cheesebach

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With the trends seemingly shifting towards adding all dry hops post-fermentation in this style (vs. splitting it between active and post fermentation), has anyone noticed any difference (either positive or negative) from doing multiple dry hop charges vs. a single heavy addition when everything is added post-fermentation? Assuming you have some way to rouse the hops in whichever vessel you dry hop in, is there any reason to think you would get better extraction or different hop character from multiple dry hops? Having done a few batches with all dry hops post-fermentation now, I still feel as though I'm missing something in trying to achieve that hop-saturated flavor that I get from the DDH versions of beers from Monkish, Other Half, Trillium, etc. and trying to decide what my next experiment should be. I know that there is likely still improvement to be made in the hot side process as well, but the dry hop is where I seem to notice the most significant changes when I'm tweaking something in my process.
 

Dgallo

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With the trends seemingly shifting towards adding all dry hops post-fermentation in this style (vs. splitting it between active and post fermentation), has anyone noticed any difference (either positive or negative) from doing multiple dry hop charges vs. a single heavy addition when everything is added post-fermentation? Assuming you have some way to rouse the hops in whichever vessel you dry hop in, is there any reason to think you would get better extraction or different hop character from multiple dry hops? Having done a few batches with all dry hops post-fermentation now, I still feel as though I'm missing something in trying to achieve that hop-saturated flavor that I get from the DDH versions of beers from Monkish, Other Half, Trillium, etc. and trying to decide what my next experiment should be. I know that there is likely still improvement to be made in the hot side process as well, but the dry hop is where I seem to notice the most significant changes when I'm tweaking something in my process.
Ive been double dryhoping and doing so loose for the past 4 years. It definitely aids in extraction in most cases. Extraction is all about surface area contact with the wort. By breaking the hops in two does, you are providing each addition more contact with the wort. Typically when a large dryhop is used in one addition, a good portion of the hops float about the wort and don’t make contact. This is the main reason pro brewers are splitting them up and using co2 to rouse them.

Now if your dryhoping in a keg and are able to invert the keg and ensure the hops are completely in contact with the wort, it will most likely be similar.
 

Oldskewl

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Used it for the firsts time myself and will be kegging it over the next day or two. Yeast was probably finished in about 5 days.
Yeah, especially if it's fresh or off a starter. It's probably going through D-rest at the moment, check the FG and you're probably close to being done in a couple of days.
Thanks for the feedback. I can't say I have ever had my blow off stop after 2 days of fermentation on a 1.062 OG. I did notice some krausen that made it into the blow off tube. Hopefully that is not causing any clogging problems. I did do a 1L starter since it was 3 mo old from package date and I planned to kept 1/2 pint for a future batch. I will check the gravity Friday and see where we are.
 

drewmuni8

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@secretlevel

Exactly, I'm definitely team low abv lol. I'd rather have two pints of 5 - 5.5% rather than one 7.5%, I guess I'm a bit of a lightweight in that sense. This just happened finish a bit higher than expecting. I'd always hit 1.010 and was hoping for something in the neighborhood of 1.012-1.016.

I have to say the Barbe Rouge was a bit disappointing out of the bag, no "red berry" at all it was quite earthy actually. Cause of its low AA I saved it exclusively for the dryhop. So Waimea and Southern Star in the kettle and both those and the Barbe Rouge in the dryhop. Major fruit aroma but the one that came to mind first was pineapple, particularly with some of the non carbonated samples.

I think next time around ill try and bring down the flaked grain and go for all malted white wheat at around 10-15% and two row, similar to what Trillium does for there "Street Series". While I definitely got the haze this time around, head retention suffered and is a bit unappealing to me.
 
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