Hello guys,
I am preparing to make this recipe(my first IPA) using no chill method and bottling - I have no other options !
My questions are: 1) regard the flameout/whirlpool hops addition: should I move all the 6 oz hops to FWH or should I wait until the wort chills to 160 and then add the hops and let it chill until pitch temp(usually the next day)? - I am guessing I should use the FWD method
2) what is the benefit of adding the dry hops when the beer is still fermenting vs after the fermentation ? All the recipes that I made and saw so far, suggest to add the dry hops after the fermentation is done, so that the flavor is preserved. It's for avoiding oxidation?
3)regard the oxidation and bottling I should take: a) the usual way- fermenting in bucket, transfer to priming bucket, bottle; b) skip the priming bucket and use a fermenting bucket with a spigot so I could bottle directly, using with priming sugar in the bottle; c)skip the bucket and ferment in a carboy(I don't have one yet, but I will buy one if necessary) and then bottle with a siphon directly in the bottles
Thank you !
1. I would not move those hops to FWH unless it's in the recipe and/or you really want to make a bitter beer. Put them in at 160, where the flavor will be extracted. (Also, it sounds like you are committed to no-chill, but have you considered chilling with ice?)
2. A lot of NEIPA recipes will say to add the first round of dry hops on day 1-2 of fermentation, during high krausen. It has to do with "biostransformation" of the hops, which causes some of the haze and flavor.
Of course, you probably already have hops in there, and not everyone is on board with this step anymore. But if it's the only dry hop you do, and you don't open the bucket/carboy again until bottling, then you will be taking some good steps to avoid oxidation.
If you dry hop a few days before bottling, you could get some oxidation. But adding that 2nd hop charge should bump up flavor and aroma. Personally, as a bottler worried about oxidation, I am leaning toward maybe just doing the one dry hop on day 2. (But let me try my latest batch -- which did get the second charge 3 days before bottling -- and get back to you. It's on Day 7 of bottle conditioning.)
3. Avoid transferring beer with this style - it will oxidize it. Better to ferment right in the bucket with the siphon, and then right into bottles with sugar in them. I use Cooper's sugar tabs, but you can also just put in drops of dissolved sugar -- I personally worry about getting the amount right. Others have said to drop the sugar right into the carboy, but I worry it won't get mixed in right.
The best NEIPA I've made so far was done the way I described -- just dry hopped on Day 2 and I didn't open the fermenter until bottling straight into bombers (with sugar tablets) on Day 14.
Good luck and please report back!