New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[stickyfinger]

"For those who have the possibility to primary co2 transfer to the keg, I must say that since I ferment under co2 and transfer with this kit (picture) (I bought all the hardware pieces from an old post here so I do not take credit), my NEIPA have greatly increased on overall quality. "

Are you saying that with everything else being equal, just pressure transferring had a noticeable difference in your NEIPAs?

 

[Beerdrinker85]

Well, when I bought the blowoff hardware I started fermenting under pressure and transferring with the no oxygen method at the same time. I should have said maybe both...

Before, I only purged the keg with co2 and transfer the beer in an open keg with the tube at the bottom.

 

[TimmyWit]

huh. i wasnt a huge fan of 057. it was ok. tasted mostly like apple esters to me. you CAN go hot though

I never got any apple out of it. I would consider apple an off-flavor. Maybe you racked before it had a chance to clean up which could result in acetaldehyde? Do you recall how long you let it ferment?

 

[stickyfinger]

I never got any apple out of it. I would consider apple an off-flavor. Maybe you racked before it had a chance to clean up which could result in acetaldehyde? Do you recall how long you let it ferment?

I guess I thought of the apple flavor as just a different ester that the strain produces. It wasn't like it was an apple-bomb, just reminded me of apple somewhat. I don't think it was acetaldehyde but could have been i guess. Looking back, I did rack it too soon. It was only 6 days from brew to keg. It also did develop diacetyl in the keg. I'm sure there were a ton of diacetyl precursors in the beer. I had never really worried about diacetyl before but started having issues around that timeframe. I fermented mine at 90F, so I was nervous about leaving it on the yeast for too long.

 

[millerbp]

Tried to squeeze in brewing another batch of this on Thanksgiving morning. All went good, pitched a starter of WPL 008, it took off Friday morning. Had to leave town for a few days Friday evening, so I hit it with the 6 oz dry hop...figured it had a blowoff tube so I'd be OK....came back today and it must have had something akin to an eruption/explosion. Probably should have taken some pictures but it blew out the blowoff hose, somehow opened the door on the fermentation chamber (wine cooler), and probably lost ~1/2 gallon on the floor. I wish I was here to see it, the aftermath was impressive. There was a 1" hop/dry wort plug lodged in the neck of the carbon, so I cleaned up as best as possible, put the blowoff back on, and it's still bubbling away. Guess I'll see what happens.

Thinking about hitting it with another dry hop of 3oz of Citra to try makeup for blowout loss.

 

[TimmyWit]

I guess I thought of the apple flavor as just a different ester that the strain produces. It wasn't like it was an apple-bomb, just reminded me of apple somewhat. I don't think it was acetaldehyde but could have been i guess. Looking back, I did rack it too soon. It was only 6 days from brew to keg. It also did develop diacetyl in the keg. I'm sure there were a ton of diacetyl precursors in the beer. I had never really worried about diacetyl before but started having issues around that timeframe. I fermented mine at 90F, so I was nervous about leaving it on the yeast for too long.

That is pretty quick. I have started transferring mine to either the dry-hop keg or serving keg somewhere between 7-10 but I'll leave it at room temp or warmer for a few days up to a week to let the yeast finish up while gaining the added benefit of some active oxygen scavenging. I think there's some debate as to whether or not it's advisable to even move it off the trub that fast but so far I have been happy with the results.
Don't give up on 057 yet, it's a great yeast!

 

[centrical]

Thanks Bruafessor and everyone else for the kegging tips. I put my first round of dry hops in a hop bag and the second round went into one of those 300 micron hop spiders, will this help with settlement issues? I think I might be slightly rushing things in regards to having it ready for the weekend, just dying to try it out as soon as possible. I might wait till Friday or Saturday so. I had toyed with the idea if cold crashing on Wednesday morning but terrified of oxygenating the beer.

I have seen something on here with a sandwich bag tied around the airlock the Co2 out into the bag, has anyone tried something like that? Would racking the beet to the keg and crash for 24 hours then adding Co2 be a better option to carb be a better option? I will also attach a dip tube screen to my racking cane to reduce the amount of debris going into the keg.

"terrified of oxygenating the beer"
Be afraid. Be very afraid. ;-)

I use the "bag over the airlock" method. I inflate a plastic bag with CO2, take the top off of my airlock and dump the water out, and then fasten the bag over the top with a rubber band.

Then I cold crash for 3 or 4 days to make sure to get rid of any astringent burn.

I would crash prior to racking into the keg - just my preference.
I like to get it clean as possible into the keg.

 

[pearljam1984]

I don’t have a great setup like seen above. I’ll say in my experience you have to be fairly reckless to lose a batch(in this style) to oxidation. When I rack to keg, I turn on Co2 and then bleed out a few times. Then I crack lid enough for tubing, run tubing to bottom of keg. Making sure no splashing can occur. Turn Co2 back on low and run for a few minutes with lid cracked. Keep running and start transfer of beer. This will flush out any oxygen and allow for pretty straight forward transfer.

I have had one oxidized batch, but it was due to keg getting clogged and opening it multiple times.

 

[Gustatorian]

One in the glass..... one in the kettle.

This one I used 1318 Yeast and 3:1:1:1 Citra/Simcoe/Mosaic/Centennial - Turned out really well. 6 ounces in flameout after 160 degrees and 6 ounce dry hop on day 2-3. All hops in loose. Kegged on day 12-14 range.

NEIPA

• Braufessor
• Nov 18, 2017
• 1

Did you not perform a second dry-hop in this beer or just a single dry-hop on day 2?

 

[stickyfinger]

Tried using WY1007 German Ale in a Heady Topper clone. It is not right for sure. It is way too dry, crisp and clean. It is hazy as **** though. I think it would be an excellent replacement for Chico in American beers. It is excellent. And, I did a VDK precursor test and found none. So, that is a huge step for me, as every single damn IPA I have brewed over the last several months has had precursors. I'm impressed. I think I'm going to try the Farmhouse Brewing IPA yeast blend on my next NEIPA (or just use the WY1318 I just used in a bitter!) Anyone have results on the Farmhouse yeast yet?

 

[Braufessor]

Did you not perform a second dry-hop in this beer or just a single dry-hop on day 2?

Single 6 ounce dry hop on day 2.

 

[degivens]

Tried using WY1007 German Ale in a Heady Topper clone. It is not right for sure. It is way too dry, crisp and clean. It is hazy as badword though. I think it would be an excellent replacement for Chico in American beers. It is excellent. And, I did a VDK precursor test and found none. So, that is a huge step for me, as every single damn IPA I have brewed over the last several months has had precursors. I'm impressed. I think I'm going to try the Farmhouse Brewing IPA yeast blend on my next NEIPA (or just use the WY1318 I just used in a bitter!) Anyone have results on the Farmhouse yeast yet?

Just bought some. Going to brew this weekend. Will report back.

 

[stickyfinger]

Just bought some. Going to brew this weekend. Will report back.

Please do report back. I am very interested in this yeast. I'm also interested to see if you can keep harvesting from starters with it and get a similar character.

 

[degivens]

Please do report back. I am very interested in this yeast. I'm also interested to see if you can keep harvesting from starters with it and get a similar character.

Can also let you know on that. Going to make a 2x starter and save 1/2. Fingers crossed

 

[stickyfinger]

Brau, how did you get your like/post ratio up so high? You have like a 33% like/post ratio. Mine is only like 12%. Badworder...

 

[Braufessor]

I don’t have a great setup like seen above. I’ll say in my experience you have to be fairly reckless to lose a batch(in this style) to oxidation. When I rack to keg, I turn on Co2 and then bleed out a few times. Then I crack lid enough for tubing, run tubing to bottom of keg. Making sure no splashing can occur. Turn Co2 back on low and run for a few minutes with lid cracked. Keep running and start transfer of beer. This will flush out any oxygen and allow for pretty straight forward transfer.

I have had one oxidized batch, but it was due to keg getting clogged and opening it multiple times.

Yeah - this is pretty much what I do too.... I have no problems with oxygen. A lot of it is just getting a repetitive process down that works for the set up you happen to have. Once you do that, repetition of the process really goes a long way toward eliminating a lot of the oxygen exposure areas.

 

[TimmyWit]

Please do report back. I am very interested in this yeast. I'm also interested to see if you can keep harvesting from starters with it and get a similar character.

I should have some results in a few weeks. As I usually do, I split it 3 ways with 2 other yeasts so I'll have something to compare it too.

Coincidentally, it has been well over a year since I harvested yeast but I pulled a liter from the starter this time. I had stopped harvesting because I found that I always wanted to use different strains so the harvested yeast never got used. But, as I mentioned a few posts ago, 057 has really grown on me and I have used it a lot lately so I decided to start harvesting again.

 

[pearljam1984]

Question for the group- has anyone used a Hop filter in transferring beer from fermenter to keg? Like putting the filter around the bottom of your hose/tubing? This would be with the idea to capture any trub/hops and get the most beer out of the fermenter. I’m wondering if the keg filter would actually capture the trub material.

 

[milldoggy]

Question for the group- has anyone used a Hop filter in transferring beer from fermenter to keg? Like putting the filter around the bottom of your hose/tubing? This would be with the idea to capture any trub/hops and get the most beer out of the fermenter. I’m wondering if the keg filter would actually capture the trub material.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/filter-dry-hops-from-conical-on-transfer.636379/

 

[stickyfinger]

Question for the group- has anyone used a Hop filter in transferring beer from fermenter to keg? Like putting the filter around the bottom of your hose/tubing? This would be with the idea to capture any trub/hops and get the most beer out of the fermenter. I’m wondering if the keg filter would actually capture the trub material.

I just bought this autosiphon filter. It has worked very well so far:

http://arborfab.com/Auto-Siphon-Filter_p_57.html

I have the narrower diameter auto siphon. I used to have a wider one that might not fit, but the narrower one fits fine. Snug but it fits.

 

[pearljam1984]

Thanks for quick responses and apologies for subject change.

 

[brew703]

I'm Kinda confused with the below. Are you adding the below during the mash and sparge? For ex, .9 grams gypsum added during mash and another .9 added during the sparge?
If one is brewing BIAB, would you add .18 during the mash or stick with .9?


WATER PROFILE:
There are multiple directions to go here. Currently, I am partial to the following water addtions - 100% RO water. I add per gallon of mash and sparge water -
Gypsum = .9 grams/gallon
CaCl = .4 grams/gallon
Epsom = .1 gram/gallon
Canning Salt = .05 grams/gallon

 

[cheesebach]

I just bought this autosiphon filter. It has worked very well so far:

http://arborfab.com/Auto-Siphon-Filter_p_57.html

I have the narrower diameter auto siphon. I used to have a wider one that might not fit, but the narrower one fits fine. Snug but it fits.

Have you ever tried using this to transfer beer out of the brew kettle to the fermenter with this? Figuring out a good way to keep hop material out of the fermenter without sacrificing a lot of wort has been something I’ve struggled with every time I brew this style. Trying to avoid going the hop spider route, since I question the utilization/extraction one gets, especially during the steep when there isn’t constant agitation from the boil.

 

[stickyfinger]

Have you ever tried using this to transfer beer out of the brew kettle to the fermenter with this? Figuring out a good way to keep hop material out of the fermenter without sacrificing a lot of wort has been something I’ve struggled with every time I brew this style. Trying to avoid going the hop spider route, since I question the utilization/extraction one gets, especially during the steep when there isn’t constant agitation from the boil.

i doubt it would work. it would clog. The key to filtration is either surface area or pressure. use a large strainer or push with the pump through an inline filter.

really, the lost wort is pretty cheap if you buy in bulk, a few dollars per batch? why worry. just make an extra 0.5-1 G of wort per batch

 

[milldoggy]

Have you ever tried using this to transfer beer out of the brew kettle to the fermenter with this? Figuring out a good way to keep hop material out of the fermenter without sacrificing a lot of wort has been something I’ve struggled with every time I brew this style. Trying to avoid going the hop spider route, since I question the utilization/extraction one gets, especially during the steep when there isn’t constant agitation from the boil.

Hop taco! I get every last drop

 

[cheesebach]

i doubt it would work. it would clog. The key to filtration is either surface area or pressure. use a large strainer or push with the pump through an inline filter.

really, the lost wort is pretty cheap if you buy in bulk, a few dollars per batch? why worry. just make an extra 0.5-1 G of wort per batch

With this style, I feel like the minimum amount of trub/wort I leave behind when doing a straight transfer to fermenter with an auto-siphon is around 2G-2.5G from a 6.5G post boil volume. I'm getting a lot of hop material transferring by the time I get down to 2G remaining. If I want 6G in the fermenter, I’d have to go up to 8G post-boil batch size doing this, which pushes the limits volume-wise on my 10 G kettle. Not to mention the 30% increase in hops (this is the bigger cost) and grain going this route.

To get around this, I’ve tried filtering through a wide strainer fitting over a giant 15” funnel or through a paint strainer bag on the output of the transfer hose. Both of these clog, but with the strainer bag I can generally get all but a gallon or so. But this is messy and time consuming.

In my head, what I think might work well is something like a giant French-press for my kettle (if someone like Arbor Fab could make one). Then I could use pressure to push all the hops down past a certain level and transfer only the clear wort over.

Hop taco! I get every last drop

Is this real? How does it work?

 

[kevink]

really, the lost wort is pretty cheap if you buy in bulk, a few dollars per batch? why worry. just make an extra 0.5-1 G of wort per batch

Exactly. My pre boil is 18.5 gallons, I get 13.7 gallons in the fermenter, 10 gallons in the kegs, and I don't give a ****. Just account for the loss and adjust.

 

[Tarpon87]

I'm Kinda confused with the below. Are you adding the below during the mash and sparge? For ex, .9 grams gypsum added during mash and another .9 added during the sparge?
If one is brewing BIAB, would you add .18 during the mash or stick with .9?


WATER PROFILE:
There are multiple directions to go here. Currently, I am partial to the following water addtions - 100% RO water. I add per gallon of mash and sparge water -
Gypsum = .9 grams/gallon
CaCl = .4 grams/gallon
Epsom = .1 gram/gallon
Canning Salt = .05 grams/gallon

Those figures are all per gallon, so:

In the case of BIAB, which is what I do, assuming you are full volume mashing
9 gal total water volume
Gypsum = .9 grams x9 = 8.1g
CaCl = .4 grams x9 = 3.6g
Epsom = .1 gram x9 = .9g
Canning Salt = .05 grams x9 = .45g

I don't use a sparge, but I believe it would still work the same. However many gallons you mash in with, multiply by the grams per gallon, add it to the mash water. Then however much you sparge with, multiple by the grams per gallon, add that to the sparge water.

 

[brew703]

Those figures are all per gallon, so:

In the case of BIAB, which is what I do, assuming you are full volume mashing
9 gal total water volume
Gypsum = .9 grams x9 = 8.1g
CaCl = .4 grams x9 = 3.6g
Epsom = .1 gram x9 = .9g
Canning Salt = .05 grams x9 = .45g

I don't use a sparge, but I believe it would still work the same. However many gallons you mash in with, multiply by the grams per gallon, add it to the mash water. Then however much you sparge with, multiple by the grams per gallon, add that to the sparge water.

Full Volume mash, no sparge.
I was curious as I've noticed that info before (added x amt during mash and x amt during sparge) and didn't really know how that would work with BIAB.
When using Bru N Water to get the amts, I add all in to the strike water while heating. It's worked good so far but wanted to push the envelope a little but have been hesitant not wanting to ruin a batch of beer.

I'll be brewing the NEIPA in a month or two and will go with the numbers provided here and see how that turns out.

Thanks for the info.

 

[MMP126]

Hey all,

Quick questions about water chemistry for these beers (Sorry if this has been covered, if so, please point me to the post).

In one post I saw Braufessor talked about playing with the Sulfate:Chloride ratios to achieve different flavor profiles/mouthfeels for this type of beer. My question is, what types of flavors/feels does each type of adjustment lead to? What happens to hop/grain flavors and mouthfeel when you have a 1:1 ratio? 2:1 ratio? 1:2 ratio?

I am curious. Let me know what you all have found!