New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[stickyfinger]

Latest single hop brew, 100% Columbus this time around. Very very different from the simcoe batch and the denali batch. I do really like this hop, it reminds me of the super dry grapefruity west coast IPAs that were all the rage when I first started brewing.



With that said I think it would really benefit from being blended with other hops. The simcoe and denali batches worked really well by themselves, and showed great potential when being blended. But I think Columbus needs a little more push from something else to really shine in a NE style hoppy beer.



All criticism aside what she brings to the table is awesome. Clean bitter, deep grapefruit with a nice dank quality. A solid edition of my single hop regimen and I'm really happy with the results

Summit, Columbus and Citra is supposed to be good. Alchemist's Skadoosh VIII had those. I like CTZ as an accent and kettle hop. It can get out of hand in the dryhop at higher levels imho.

 

[Braufessor]

Love it! Do you notice any real difference between plastic and SS fermentation buckets as far as quality, off flavors, etc?

No.... not really that I can tell.... those two are my "funky saison buckets" though...... I keep them dedicated to saisons where I am using blends of yeast that contain brett and other "who knows what" kinds of things.

 

[braindead]

Just brewed it, used hop oils for the battering, never again, totally pain to clean after.
What colour did peoples turn out before adding the yeast. Because its looking way off a nice orange colour yet, more of a dark amber colour.

 

[no_borders]

Summit, Columbus and Citra is supposed to be good. Alchemist's Skadoosh VIII had those. I like CTZ as an accent and kettle hop. It can get out of hand in the dryhop at higher levels imho.

I got the idea to do all Columbus from one of the previous skadoosh beers they did. He raved about the dank qualities and such. But I have to agree with you that it's very aggressive by itself. I'm still working on a hop combo for the brown IPA, summit ctz and citra may not be a bad avenue to take

 

[stickyfinger]

I got the idea to do all Columbus from one of the previous skadoosh beers they did. He raved about the dank qualities and such. But I have to agree with you that it's very aggressive by itself. I'm still working on a hop combo for the brown IPA, summit ctz and citra may not be a bad avenue to take

he raves abt all of his beers, lol! he DID really rave abt the Skadoosh w/ citra, summit, CTZ though. I wish i could select my lot of each hop i use for the year! ****er!

 

[leesmith]

Latest single hop brew, 100% Columbus this time around. Very very different from the simcoe batch and the denali batch. I do really like this hop, it reminds me of the super dry grapefruity west coast IPAs that were all the rage when I first started brewing.



With that said I think it would really benefit from being blended with other hops. The simcoe and denali batches worked really well by themselves, and showed great potential when being blended. But I think Columbus needs a little more push from something else to really shine in a NE style hoppy beer.



All criticism aside what she brings to the table is awesome. Clean bitter, deep grapefruit with a nice dank quality. A solid edition of my single hop regimen and I'm really happy with the results

Hill Farmstead's Harlan is a bigger version of Edward...but dry hopped with only Columbus. It's one of my favorite beers from them.

So maybe a mix of some other hops and
Columbus at flameout and then all in with Columbus for the dry hop?

 

[stickyfinger]

Hill Farmstead's Harlan is a bigger version of Edward...but dry hopped with only Columbus. It's one of my favorite beers from them.

So maybe a mix of some other hops and
Columbus at flameout and then all in with Columbus for the dry hop?

i had a Harlan at the 3 penny (?) in Montpelier and it was awful. maybe a bad line. tasted like iodophor. i had an Edward too, decent. Alchemist beers were much better but were straight from the teet.

 

[leesmith]

i had a Harlan at the 3 penny (?) in Montpelier and it was awful. maybe a bad line. tasted like iodophor. i had an Edward too, decent. Alchemist beers were much better but were straight from the teet.

Man...that's a shame. I hope you get to try it again.....maybe from the "teet". I think there's a good beer for every hop and that one stood out for me.

 

[no_borders]

I would like to just sample different lots let alone be able to select the whole thing. I'll definitely use Columbus again in the future, I just agree with a lot of people on this thread: it's a little to dry and you can over do it with the late additions. I might keep it in the whirl and eliminate it all together in the dry hop, but, who knows. I keep changing stuff around with the recipe for the brown, but I really think Columbus would play well with some of the darker malt flavors.

 

[jakturner]

Hey all want to try a new yeast with this. I've used Conan, 1318 and wlp644, with 1318 (London 3) being my favorite so far. I saw 1272 is popular, any other favorites out there? 1968? Dennys fav? Thanks!

 

[milldoggy]

Hey all want to try a new yeast with this. I've used Conan, 1318 and wlp644, with 1318 (London 3) being my favorite so far. I saw 1272 is popular, any other favorites out there? 1968? Dennys fav? Thanks!

Wlp029. Will be fully carbed this weekend and will report. But all test so far lead to being a winner.

 

[stickyfinger]

Hey all want to try a new yeast with this. I've used Conan, 1318 and wlp644, with 1318 (London 3) being my favorite so far. I saw 1272 is popular, any other favorites out there? 1968? Dennys fav? Thanks!

denny's and wlp095 work well

 

[no_borders]

007 and her dry counterpart s-04 make a real nice ne style beer. It gives off a lot diacetyl in the first couple days but it's reabsorbed very quickly. I can go grain to glass in 8-10 days with no off flavors

 

[Scturo]

I just did one with S-04, I was surprised with how good it tasted. I'll probably use it again.

 

[leesmith]

I can can second the 007...great yeast and flocs like a rock....I call it peanut butter yeast...it's a work horse

 

[bigmunchez]

Hey all want to try a new yeast with this. I've used Conan, 1318 and wlp644, with 1318 (London 3) being my favorite so far. I saw 1272 is popular, any other favorites out there? 1968? Dennys fav? Thanks!

Wyeast 2565 gets a vote from me. Worked really well. Preferred it to 644

 

[GnenieGone]

2 day bottle sample. Not detecting diacetyl, yeah! Columbus, Eldorado, citra on an Imperial yeast cake of 1098 British. Getting a lemony and spicy flavor.

View attachment 1499735575925.jpg

 

[GnenieGone]

No.... not really that I can tell.... those two are my "funky saison buckets" though...... I keep them dedicated to saisons where I am using blends of yeast that contain brett and other "who knows what" kinds of things.

Brau, what yeast you like for your Saisons? I have a request for brewing a Peach saison using our local central Texas peaches.

 

[weskarl]

Hey all want to try a new yeast with this. I've used Conan, 1318 and wlp644, with 1318 (London 3) being my favorite so far. I saw 1272 is popular, any other favorites out there? 1968? Dennys fav? Thanks!

My current favorite is A24 Dry Hop from Imperial Yeast

 

[paco313]

Okay…… This is just kind of an “update post”. The original recipe is great as is… but, here are some slightly different things I have started to do, minor changes, observations, etc. After a certain amount of time, you cannot edit a post – so I can’t really get in to make changes to the OP. I do think I can get this post linked into the OP though. Some of what follows is basically the same as the OP…. Some is different and updated. I will put the updated parts in bold italics



**I brew 6.5 gallons of finished beer (post boil)..... this allows me to leave some hop/trub behind in boil kettle and fermenter and get 5 gallons eventually into serving keg. If you finish with 5 gallons post boil, you might want to adjust hops down a bit.

6.5 gallons post boil

5.75 gallons into fermenter

5 gallons into keg



GRAIN BILL:

1.060 OG…. I think this makes a perfect compromise between getting into DIPA range (having beers that are just too high in abv. for my preference) and going too far toward 1.050 where the beer may become too much of a “session” IPA for some peoples preferences.



% and the actual amt. I use for 6.5 gallons @ 84% mash efficiency (your efficiency may vary – so use the percentages)



40% Rahr 2 Row (5.5 lbs)

40% Golden Promise (or similar…Maris Otter) (5.5 lbs)

8% Flaked Oats (1 lb)

4% Flaked Barley 1/2 lb)

4% Weyerman Wheat (1/2 lb)

2% Flaked Wheat (1/4 lb)

2% Honey Malt (1/4 lb)



60 minute mash @152-154)



*Note on grain…. Using all 2 Row for Base is probably fine. Using any combination of flaked Oats/Wheat/Barley to get into the 15-20% range is proably fine too. I do like the addition of Honey Malt and recommend keeping it.



HOPS:

**60 Min. = .75 oz Warrior

**Flame Out = 1oz. each of Citra/Galaxy/Mosaic

**Chill to 160 or below and add 1oz. each of Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy. Stop chiller and allow hops to sit for 30 minute or so. Stir up/whirlpool wort every 5 minutes or so.

Chill to 62-64 and let hops settle out as much as possible. Transfer wort to fermenter. I tend to leave behind .75 gallons of trub and hops (this is why I brew 6.5 gallon batch).



**Dry Hop #1- At day 4-6 (basically when there are a few gravity points left and beer is still fermenting). Add the following to primary fermenter:

1.5 oz. Citra

1 oz. Mosaic

.5 oz. Galaxy



**Dry Hop #2 - Around day 12, transfer to CO2 purged dry hopping keg with

1.5 oz. Citra

1 oz. Mosaic

.5 oz. Galaxy

(I use this strategy: http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09...no-oxygen.html )



Day 14 - Jump from Dry hop keg to serving keg. Force carbonate to moderate/moderate-low. For carbonation, I usually hook it up at 25 psi for 2 days and then back it off to 10-12 psi - generally seems to carb up best after a few days, but fine to drink after 2-3 days.





Many folks who don't keg, or don't have a dry hopping keg ask about adding all the hops to primary, or adding all the hops in a single dry hop..... that isn't what I do, but you have to make things fit your system and your process. Others do it with fine success. There is no reason it should not work to do that if it fits your system better



WATER PROFILE:

There are multiple directions to go here. Currently, I am partial to the following water addtions - 100% RO water. I add per gallon of mash and sparge water -

Gypsum = .9 grams/gallon

CaCl = .4 grams/gallon

Epsom = .1 gram/gallon

Canning Salt = .05 grams/gallon





Lactic Acid = I add about .5ml- 1ml (total) of lactic acid to the mash and the sparge. And may adjust a bit more…. Aiming for about 5.35-5.45 mash pH and Preboil kettle pH.



Using B'run Water



Ca = 100

Mg = 5

Na = 13

Sulfate = 147

Chloride = 80

Bicarbonate = 16



Mash pH = 5.37-5.42

Final runnings pH = 5.60

Pre-boil Kettle pH = 5.40-5.45

Post Boil pH = 5.3-5.35



**Water strategies to test out for yourself to see what you like best;

2:1 Sulfate:Chloride in the 150:75 range

1:1 Sulfate:Chloride in the 120-150 range

1:2 Sulfate:Chloride in the 75:150 range

All will produce a good beer… but you may find something you personally prefer.

I did go 200 sulfate:50 Cl…… it was fine…. But, it was not what I was looking for. It definitely “dried” the beer out a bit. I think it definitely moved this beer away from what most of us are shooting for in a “Ne IPA.”



Water Profile - the simple solution:

***Many people ask about a more general guide to water because they do not know what their own water profile is, or they have not made the jump to using a water profile software. I use B'run water, and the above profile. However, if you just want to get in the ballpark of something "similar" to start with..... The simplest solution is this:

100% RO water for both mash and sparge.

Per 5 gallons of mash water: 1 tsp of CaCl + 1/2 tsp Gypsum

Per 5 gallons of sparge water: 1 tsp of CaCl + 1/2 tsp Gypsum



This should bring you in around 140 Chloride and 80 Sulfate.



Or….. to try other versions….

*The opposite: 1tsp of gypsum and ½ tsp of CaCl per 5 gallon

*Equal ratios: ¾ - 1 tsp of each per 5 gallon.



This does not take into account trying to get Na or Mg numbers. It ignores bicarbonate and as it is 100% RO, it should bring your mash pH in around 5.41 without any acid addition.



ROUGH estimate of grams to tsp of minerals:

1/4 tsp Gypsum = .9 grams

1/4 tsp CaCl = 1.1 grams

1/4 tsp Epsom Salt = 1.3 grams

1/4 tsp Canning Salt = 1.8 grams





FERMENTATION

Yeast - Conan(vermont IPA), 1318 is also a yeast many choose to use in beers like this. *** I have also found that 1272 works great. I am starting to think that there are many yeasts that would likely do just fine in beers like this. 1056, 1450, 007…. I would not be afraid to try other yeasts.

I tend to start fermentation off around 62-64 at let it free rise to 66-68 degrees through the first 3 days or so of fermentation. At that point, I like to move it somewhere that it can finish off in the 68-70-72 range.



OTHER THOUGHTS/NOTES:



I keep almost everything the same in brewing IPA's to this style. However, I do mix up the hops. I always bitter with warrior (Columbus on occasion), and always use 4 sets of 3 ounce additions at Flameout, Whirlpool, Dry Hop #1, Dry Hop #2....... but, not always the same hops. I sometimes do 100% Citra. I sometimes do equal parts of Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy for all 4 additions (Grapefruit!!!!), I some times do equal parts (1.5 ounces) citra/mosaic at all 4 additions... But always the same basic amount, in the same basic schedule.

I think single hop versions of Mosaic or Galaxy would potentially be quite good. I have done 2:1 Citra:Columbus that was good. I like Simcoe/Amarillo/Centennial (but I keep centennial out of the dry hop as I find it “drying”). I have used Citra/Azacca – which was good (although Azacca can get lost as it is not as “strong” as some of the others). Personally, I think dank hops like Columbus, Eureka, etc. can get out of hand in beers like this and come off as harsh and grassy….. so, I tend to really limit them to smaller amounts. Lots of combos will work….. but, at the end of the day I still find it very hard to beat Citra:Mosaic:Galaxy combos.

I brew the same recipe but change the honey malt for some acid malt, the hop bill went a little more heavy using the hop burst method:

Azzaca 1oz 10 min
Motueka 1oz 5 min
Citra/mosaic/galaxy 1oz each flame out (whirpoolling)5 min
Motueka 1oz at 190 F for 15 min
Citra/mosaic/galaxy 1oz each at 165F (5 min before cooling all to 68 and pitch londom ale lll)

Dry hop schedule:
Dh 1 7 days after pitch: mosaic/citra/galaxy 1oz each
Dh 2 when fermentation is complete mosaic/citra/galaxy/ azzaca 1oz each

Its the first time im gonna use 1 lb of hops to a 5 gallon batch so im very exited about that.
Tell me what do you think about it!

 

[paco313]

Okay…… This is just kind of an “update post”. The original recipe is great as is… but, here are some slightly different things I have started to do, minor changes, observations, etc. After a certain amount of time, you cannot edit a post – so I can’t really get in to make changes to the OP. I do think I can get this post linked into the OP though. Some of what follows is basically the same as the OP…. Some is different and updated. I will put the updated parts in bold italics



**I brew 6.5 gallons of finished beer (post boil)..... this allows me to leave some hop/trub behind in boil kettle and fermenter and get 5 gallons eventually into serving keg. If you finish with 5 gallons post boil, you might want to adjust hops down a bit.

6.5 gallons post boil

5.75 gallons into fermenter

5 gallons into keg



GRAIN BILL:

1.060 OG…. I think this makes a perfect compromise between getting into DIPA range (having beers that are just too high in abv. for my preference) and going too far toward 1.050 where the beer may become too much of a “session” IPA for some peoples preferences.



% and the actual amt. I use for 6.5 gallons @ 84% mash efficiency (your efficiency may vary – so use the percentages)



40% Rahr 2 Row (5.5 lbs)

40% Golden Promise (or similar…Maris Otter) (5.5 lbs)

8% Flaked Oats (1 lb)

4% Flaked Barley 1/2 lb)

4% Weyerman Wheat (1/2 lb)

2% Flaked Wheat (1/4 lb)

2% Honey Malt (1/4 lb)



60 minute mash @152-154)



*Note on grain…. Using all 2 Row for Base is probably fine. Using any combination of flaked Oats/Wheat/Barley to get into the 15-20% range is proably fine too. I do like the addition of Honey Malt and recommend keeping it.



HOPS:

**60 Min. = .75 oz Warrior

**Flame Out = 1oz. each of Citra/Galaxy/Mosaic

**Chill to 160 or below and add 1oz. each of Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy. Stop chiller and allow hops to sit for 30 minute or so. Stir up/whirlpool wort every 5 minutes or so.

Chill to 62-64 and let hops settle out as much as possible. Transfer wort to fermenter. I tend to leave behind .75 gallons of trub and hops (this is why I brew 6.5 gallon batch).



**Dry Hop #1- At day 4-6 (basically when there are a few gravity points left and beer is still fermenting). Add the following to primary fermenter:

1.5 oz. Citra

1 oz. Mosaic

.5 oz. Galaxy



**Dry Hop #2 - Around day 12, transfer to CO2 purged dry hopping keg with

1.5 oz. Citra

1 oz. Mosaic

.5 oz. Galaxy

(I use this strategy: http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09...no-oxygen.html )



Day 14 - Jump from Dry hop keg to serving keg. Force carbonate to moderate/moderate-low. For carbonation, I usually hook it up at 25 psi for 2 days and then back it off to 10-12 psi - generally seems to carb up best after a few days, but fine to drink after 2-3 days.





Many folks who don't keg, or don't have a dry hopping keg ask about adding all the hops to primary, or adding all the hops in a single dry hop..... that isn't what I do, but you have to make things fit your system and your process. Others do it with fine success. There is no reason it should not work to do that if it fits your system better



WATER PROFILE:

There are multiple directions to go here. Currently, I am partial to the following water addtions - 100% RO water. I add per gallon of mash and sparge water -

Gypsum = .9 grams/gallon

CaCl = .4 grams/gallon

Epsom = .1 gram/gallon

Canning Salt = .05 grams/gallon





Lactic Acid = I add about .5ml- 1ml (total) of lactic acid to the mash and the sparge. And may adjust a bit more…. Aiming for about 5.35-5.45 mash pH and Preboil kettle pH.



Using B'run Water



Ca = 100

Mg = 5

Na = 13

Sulfate = 147

Chloride = 80

Bicarbonate = 16



Mash pH = 5.37-5.42

Final runnings pH = 5.60

Pre-boil Kettle pH = 5.40-5.45

Post Boil pH = 5.3-5.35



**Water strategies to test out for yourself to see what you like best;

2:1 Sulfate:Chloride in the 150:75 range

1:1 Sulfate:Chloride in the 120-150 range

1:2 Sulfate:Chloride in the 75:150 range

All will produce a good beer… but you may find something you personally prefer.

I did go 200 sulfate:50 Cl…… it was fine…. But, it was not what I was looking for. It definitely “dried” the beer out a bit. I think it definitely moved this beer away from what most of us are shooting for in a “Ne IPA.”



Water Profile - the simple solution:

***Many people ask about a more general guide to water because they do not know what their own water profile is, or they have not made the jump to using a water profile software. I use B'run water, and the above profile. However, if you just want to get in the ballpark of something "similar" to start with..... The simplest solution is this:

100% RO water for both mash and sparge.

Per 5 gallons of mash water: 1 tsp of CaCl + 1/2 tsp Gypsum

Per 5 gallons of sparge water: 1 tsp of CaCl + 1/2 tsp Gypsum



This should bring you in around 140 Chloride and 80 Sulfate.



Or….. to try other versions….

*The opposite: 1tsp of gypsum and ½ tsp of CaCl per 5 gallon

*Equal ratios: ¾ - 1 tsp of each per 5 gallon.



This does not take into account trying to get Na or Mg numbers. It ignores bicarbonate and as it is 100% RO, it should bring your mash pH in around 5.41 without any acid addition.



ROUGH estimate of grams to tsp of minerals:

1/4 tsp Gypsum = .9 grams

1/4 tsp CaCl = 1.1 grams

1/4 tsp Epsom Salt = 1.3 grams

1/4 tsp Canning Salt = 1.8 grams





FERMENTATION

Yeast - Conan(vermont IPA), 1318 is also a yeast many choose to use in beers like this. *** I have also found that 1272 works great. I am starting to think that there are many yeasts that would likely do just fine in beers like this. 1056, 1450, 007…. I would not be afraid to try other yeasts.

I tend to start fermentation off around 62-64 at let it free rise to 66-68 degrees through the first 3 days or so of fermentation. At that point, I like to move it somewhere that it can finish off in the 68-70-72 range.



OTHER THOUGHTS/NOTES:



I keep almost everything the same in brewing IPA's to this style. However, I do mix up the hops. I always bitter with warrior (Columbus on occasion), and always use 4 sets of 3 ounce additions at Flameout, Whirlpool, Dry Hop #1, Dry Hop #2....... but, not always the same hops. I sometimes do 100% Citra. I sometimes do equal parts of Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy for all 4 additions (Grapefruit!!!!), I some times do equal parts (1.5 ounces) citra/mosaic at all 4 additions... But always the same basic amount, in the same basic schedule.

I think single hop versions of Mosaic or Galaxy would potentially be quite good. I have done 2:1 Citra:Columbus that was good. I like Simcoe/Amarillo/Centennial (but I keep centennial out of the dry hop as I find it “drying”). I have used Citra/Azacca – which was good (although Azacca can get lost as it is not as “strong” as some of the others). Personally, I think dank hops like Columbus, Eureka, etc. can get out of hand in beers like this and come off as harsh and grassy….. so, I tend to really limit them to smaller amounts. Lots of combos will work….. but, at the end of the day I still find it very hard to beat Citra:Mosaic:Galaxy combos.

I brew the same recipe but change the honey malt for some acid malt, the hop bill went a little more heavy using the hop burst method:

Azzaca 1oz 10 min
Motueka 1oz 5 min
Citra/mosaic/galaxy 1oz each flame out (whirpoolling)5 min
Motueka 1oz at 190 F for 15 min
Citra/mosaic/galaxy 1oz each at 165F (5 min before cooling all to 68 and pitch londom ale lll)

Dry hop schedule:
Dh 1 7 days after pitch: mosaic/citra/galaxy 1oz each
Dh 2 when fermentation is complete mosaic/citra/galaxy/ azzaca 1oz each

Its the first time im gonna use 1 lb of hops to a 5 gallon batch so im very exited about that.
Tell me what do you think about it!
I'll keep you posted on my results

 

[paco313]

I brew the same recipe but change the honey malt for some acid malt, the hop bill went a little more heavy using the hop burst method:

Azzaca 1oz 10 min
Motueka 1oz 5 min
Citra/mosaic/galaxy 1oz each flame out (whirpoolling)5 min
Motueka 1oz at 190 F for 15 min
Citra/mosaic/galaxy 1oz each at 165F (5 min before cooling all to 68 and pitch londom ale lll)

Dry hop schedule:
Dh 1 7 days after pitch: mosaic/citra/galaxy 1oz each
Dh 2 when fermentation is complete mosaic/citra/galaxy/ azzaca 1oz each

Its the first time im gonna use 1 lb of hops to a 5 gallon batch so im very exited about that.
Tell me what do you think about it!
I'll keep you posted on my results

 

[jakturner]

I brew the same recipe but change the honey malt for some acid malt, the hop bill went a little more heavy using the hop burst method:

Azzaca 1oz 10 min
Motueka 1oz 5 min
Citra/mosaic/galaxy 1oz each flame out (whirpoolling)5 min
Motueka 1oz at 190 F for 15 min
Citra/mosaic/galaxy 1oz each at 165F (5 min before cooling all to 68 and pitch londom ale lll)

Dry hop schedule:
Dh 1 7 days after pitch: mosaic/citra/galaxy 1oz each
Dh 2 when fermentation is complete mosaic/citra/galaxy/ azzaca 1oz each

Its the first time im gonna use 1 lb of hops to a 5 gallon batch so im very exited about that.
Tell me what do you think about it!
I'll keep you posted on my results

I would move that first dry hop to day 3 or 4, 1318 should be done fermenting by day 7

 

[leesmith]

I would like to just sample different lots let alone be able to select the whole thing. I'll definitely use Columbus again in the future, I just agree with a lot of people on this thread: it's a little to dry and you can over do it with the late additions. I might keep it in the whirl and eliminate it all together in the dry hop, but, who knows. I keep changing stuff around with the recipe for the brown, but I really think Columbus would play well with some of the darker malt flavors.

Would like to try this on tap now at Tired Hands:

"Progression Through Unlearning II:
Progressive IPA. 5.8% Brewed with spelt malt as well as some high dried barley malts. This batch was hopped entirely with a particularly dank and pungent lot of Columbus. Do you know yourself? Do you know the others?
-Notes of concord grape, tomato greens, blood orange, green pepper, and pink guava."

 

[no_borders]

I'm having one of my all Columbus brews now, and I have to say I'd love to get tired hands' version. I really don't think my batch of hops is overly "dank" compared to others, and I have no idea what pink guava tastes like haha. I do get a little of the pepper flavor, but nothing super prominent. Almost like if you didn't mention it I wouldn't be able to describe it that way. I really just didn't have any clue how bold Columbus really could be compared to some of the other single hops I have done.

Amarillo is next on my list and if it comes out anything like the last three single hop APAs I've done , it surely won't disappoint the crowd here

 

[ejf063]

A while back, I posted that I was going to do a 10 gallon batch and split it into 2 five gallon batches. One of the batches was to be fermented with Omega DIAP, while the other was going to be WLP 008.
I did my take on Brau's recipe... I stayed pretty true but modified the salts to my tastes. Used the Citra/mosaic/galaxy combo, too.
I told a neighbor that he could have 5 gallons for a party and let he, as the host, pick which one he wanted. When he came over and we pulled the samples, 008 was not carbed.... because I forgot to turn the valve on! the DIPA was really fruity... but like peach, I think. I am not a big peach fan. He selected the DIPA because he didn't like the flat beer....
The 008 finally carbed (right before the party), and I think it was superior.... yes, superior to the DIPA. I don't know what it is about 008, I think its under appreciated or something, but I love it. If and when I do it again, I will likely ferment at a bit of a higher temp since some of the characteristics seem muted. i think my fermentation temp was 63-66*.
Other than that, the hops and chew of the adjuncts seem nicely balanced to me. Still fruity, but more balanced. Just a touch of bite from the carbonation. The yeast hangs around, so the cloudy quality is present.
The DIPA keg was kicked at the party and it received a lot of positive reviews. It too was cloudy, but the peachy characteristic coupled with the bit of onion I was getting from (I think) the citra just didn't do it for me. It was good... don't get me wrong. It looked cloudy and thick, just like 008. i am sure I have a pic, i will just need to look.....
The 008 keg is all mine and it will take a while to go through. Sure the hops will fade over time, but the yeast.... I really like the flavor of it. I have never a brewed a beer that I haven't liked with that yeast. and it seems not many people care for it. But if you've used it before, and you liked it.... without hesitation, go for it.
The picture is of the 008 batch. So juicy. So hoppy. My only criticism would be that the carbonation seems to be a touch too high. I'll have to see what I can do about that.
Sorry it took so long to respond.... I hope it will be worth the wait. Best of luck. Brew on!!

 

[ejf063]

Here is a picture of the DIPA. It was more yellow than orange. Peachy and hoppy.


Welp.... I cant seem to correct the image, and I even attached a second sideways image just to make me look more stupid.
Sorry folks.....

 

[paarman]

Here is a picture of the DIPA. It was more yellow than orange. Peachy and hoppy.


Welp.... I cant seem to correct the image, and I even attached a second sideways image just to make me look more stupid.
Sorry folks.....

Mind sharing your water profile?

 

[ejf063]

Mind sharing your water profile?

Using a Brew Easy system, I started with 16.5 gallons of water. all salts were added into the mash tun which recirculated until I added the grains.
I added the approximate amounts of 3 tsp CaCl; 1.4 tsp Epsom; .8 tsp pickling salt; 1.7 tsp gypsum. My number according to Bru n' Water were: Ca: 101; Mg 10; Na 31; So4 100; Cl 183; estimated ph of 5.4.

 

[paarman]

Using a Brew Easy system, I started with 16.5 gallons of water. all salts were added into the mash tun which recirculated until I added the grains.
I added the approximate amounts of 3 tsp CaCl; 1.4 tsp Epsom; .8 tsp pickling salt; 1.7 tsp gypsum. My number according to Bru n' Water were: Ca: 101; Mg 10; Na 31; So4 100; Cl 183; estimated ph of 5.4.

Thanks, love the color so was just curious what your numbers were... Looks great!

 

[Braufessor]

Brau, what yeast you like for your Saisons? I have a request for brewing a Peach saison using our local central Texas peaches.

I have only been brewing Saisons more regularly over the last 1-2 years..... so, take my opinions for what they are worth. So far, the yeast I have used multiple times that I have liked is the Yeast Bay Saison Blend...... just a nice, straight forward saison..... Also, unlike some others I have used - no banana esters (which I dislike).
http://www.theyeastbay.com/brewers-yeast-products/saison-blend-i

Just bottled a saison where I used the Mad Fermentationist Saison Blend from Bootleg Biology. I really liked this one a lot and just bought a couple more packs in their recent resale for it. Looking forward to trying a couple more saisons with it.
https://bootlegbiology.com/product/the-mad-fermentationist-saison-blend/

 

[GnenieGone]

I have only been brewing Saisons more regularly over the last 1-2 years..... so, take my opinions for what they are worth. So far, the yeast I have used multiple times that I have liked is the Yeast Bay Saison Blend...... just a nice, straight forward saison..... Also, unlike some others I have used - no banana esters (which I dislike).
http://www.theyeastbay.com/brewers-yeast-products/saison-blend-i

Just bottled a saison where I used the Mad Fermentationist Saison Blend from Bootleg Biology. I really liked this one a lot and just bought a couple more packs in their recent resale for it. Looking forward to trying a couple more saisons with it.
https://bootlegbiology.com/product/the-mad-fermentationist-saison-blend/

Thanks for the information! +1 on the anti banana.

 

[popquizkid]

Thank you.
I was nervous I'd clog the racking cane filter with so many hops in the fermenter and then mess up trying to eliminate o2 by having to take things apart (I push with co2). 6 oz in 2.5 gallons could cause some trouble. But I agree with you. In the beers I hop less, I only do it once. And I keg hop so the yeast is clean that I harvest from primary. This batch I didn't care about harvesting yeast.

I have only been brewing Saisons more regularly over the last 1-2 years..... so, take my opinions for what they are worth. So far, the yeast I have used multiple times that I have liked is the Yeast Bay Saison Blend...... just a nice, straight forward saison..... Also, unlike some others I have used - no banana esters (which I dislike).
http://www.theyeastbay.com/brewers-yeast-products/saison-blend-i

Just bottled a saison where I used the Mad Fermentationist Saison Blend from Bootleg Biology. I really liked this one a lot and just bought a couple more packs in their recent resale for it. Looking forward to trying a couple more saisons with it.
https://bootlegbiology.com/product/the-mad-fermentationist-saison-blend/

Not to derail the thread - but I also just grabbed a pack of the mad fermentationist saison blend. Excited to try it. Since your NEIPA recipe is such a winner curious what type of saison you would recommend making with this blend?

 

[Braufessor]

Not to derail the thread - but I also just grabbed a pack of the mad fermentationist saison blend. Excited to try it. Since your NEIPA recipe is such a winner curious what type of saison you would recommend making with this blend?

Here is a thread on the blend. I posted the recipe I used in post #47. There are other good insights on the thread too. Mine was pretty high hopped - which probably prevented the lacto from doing anything at all in it. It was still super nice at bottling though.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=621126

The next go around I am going to brew a couple similar batches - however, I am going to leave the hops out and keep it very low IBU (3-5). I will move one batch to a keg and let it sit until 4-6 weeks, then dry hop and bottle, and I will likely leave one batch alone - very low IBU and just bottle it up as a plain saison. I will collect yeast from some of these and I think I might then try a dark saison of some sort (low IBU) and then put some of it on cherries from the trees in our back yard.

If yo want the lacto to come through though, you have to go very low IBU - possibly dry hopping late after the lacto has had a chance to do its thing.

 

[Oldskewl]

I would love to give that blend a try. Recently brewed a saison using WY3726 Farmhouse Ale yeast. Although it is still a good beer, it doesn't have the funk I was hoping for even though I gradually raised temps to 85 deg over 10 days or so. I am just SCARED to take the leap into brett/lacto beers and contaminating my equipment.

 

[Braufessor]

I am just SCARED to take the leap into brett/lacto beers and contaminating my equipment.

I think some of this is over reactive..... that said, I do have some separate buckets and kegs I work with and use consistently for any brett type stuff.

Brett and lacto (and all kinds of other nastier things) are all around us, all the time. Our equipment is constantly exposed to these things. That is why we sanitize. Honestly, I think careful cleaning and sanitizing would probably be more than enough. Good sanitation practice ought to take care of any concerns. If a person's sanitation practices are not good enough to clean/sanitize what they use for brett or lacto they pitched..... those practices are probably not good enough for all kinds of naturally occurring brett, lacto and others.

One thing I do that is a bit different with these beers..... After fermentation, using kegs, etc. I do hit the fermenters/kegs with both iodophor and star san after cleaning. Between the two, they ought to kill about everything.

 

[Oldskewl]

Thanks for the reality check! What do you use to ferment your Brett batches? I use a SS Brewbucket exclusively, but used my bottling bucket on your suggestion to brew an IPA that I had the opportunity to brew before my saison was finished. Just wondering if a plastic bucket should be the last choice for a Brett beer?

 

[Braufessor]

Thanks for the reality check! What do you use to ferment your Brett batches? I use a SS Brewbucket exclusively, but used my bottling bucket on your suggestion to brew an IPA that I had the opportunity to brew before my saison was finished. Just wondering if a plastic bucket should be the last choice for a Brett beer?

I suppose it is probably not ideal. For the most part, what I have been doing a lot is that I have mainly fermented with a saison yeast and then added Brett C at bottling - right in the bottles.

Or, I have done the first 2 weeks in bottling bucket and transferred it to a 5 gallon keg for secondary.

I bottle all my Saisons in heavy 750ml bottles and either carb them by adding Brett. at bottling to a beer that has not totally fermented out and the Brett will carb them Or, I add priming sugar to 3 volumes. I just think these beers do really well in bottles - plus, often times they might not be at their best for 3-6 months and so it is an easier way to put them aside for longer.

I do all my bottling with a beer gun - even if I am bottling an uncarbonated beer and priming..... I still do it from a 5 gallon keg with a beer gun - just easier. So, I am generally not leaving any of these beers in a bucket for much longer than the first 2-3 weeks.

Letting one sit for 2-3 months in plastic might not end up being a good idea.

 

[GnenieGone]

Jazzed! Picked up simcoe, citra, and mosaic Cryo Hops. So Saison put off for now. Brewing tonight using 1318. From what I've read, 7 days fermentation (diacetyl rest), 6hrs hops and bottle. Only one addition needed as these are 2x the Lupulin potency as I understand.

 

[mintyice]

I have 2 NEIPAs on tap! One is a lighter cucumber pale ale type NEIPA which is really cool and the other is an Alien Churchish clone that drinks more like a thicker Trilliumish double IPA. Really tasty but it's about 8%! :O