New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[arnobg]

Finally getting around to brewing this tomorrow on my day off. In regards to the flame out additions, is there a preferred time for how long to leave the kettle hot before cooling it to the 160F for the next hop addition? I have very cold ground water right now so I could get it down to 160F in just a couple minutes but I don't want to do it too fast and not get anything out of the hops. I will recirculate with a pump the whole time.

 

[Beer-lord]

I put some hops in as soon as I turned the heat off and others I added when it got to 180 and let it sit for 30 minutes until it dropped to under 160.
Mine is still in the fermeneter and it'll be a bit more than a week before I keg it but wow, does it smell wonderful. If the taste is anything like the aroma, I'll be a very happy brewer!

 

[Braufessor]

Finally getting around to brewing this tomorrow on my day off. In regards to the flame out additions, is there a preferred time for how long to leave the kettle hot before cooling it to the 160F for the next hop addition? I have very cold ground water right now so I could get it down to 160F in just a couple minutes but I don't want to do it too fast and not get anything out of the hops. I will recirculate with a pump the whole time.

I put the flame out addition in and start chilling within 30 seconds to a minute.... get hose hooked up and turned on. It probably only takes me a couple minutes to get down to 160 as well. I would say it is only 5 minutes for me from flame out addition until I am at 160 and throw in that second set of hops.

 

[MMP126]

Hey All,

Just cracked the bottle on my first attempt of a NEIPA.

Here is my recipe. Its a little strange, and I think I may change it up a bit.

Batch Size: 3gal
OG: 1.058
FG: 1.008
Yeast: OMEGA - Tropical IPA (No Starter)
Mash temp: 154F
Mash and Boil Time: 60min
Primary: 18 Days @ 77F
Secondary: 8 Days @ 58F
Dry Hop#1: 8th Day of Ferm
Dry Hop #2: Start of Secondary
Dry Hop #3: 5th Day Of Secondary
Primed with corn sugar
In the bottle for 18 days before opening.

Grains:
Golden Promise 4lb
Flaked Oats 1lb
Flaked Barley 1lb
Flaked Wheat 1lb
Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L 0.15lb
Carapils 0.065lb (Ran Out)

Hops:
7g Galaxy (30min)
7g Citra (30min)
7g Mosaic (30min)
14g Galaxy (DH1 and 2)
14g Citra (DH1 and 2)
14g Mosaic (DH1 and 2)
21g Galaxy (DH3)
21g Citra (DH3)
21g Mosaic (DH3)

NO WATER ADJUSTMENTS

Turned out great for my first one. It is a bit dry though, due to the low FG. Hops are amazing. Grapefruit, Melon, a little bit of flowers. Its great.

Haze looks awesome. They key is the dry hops, and I think the drop to 58F in secondary helped with this also.

Here is what I would change

1. Maybe a small bittering charge at 60. Probably Centennial next time.
2. Mash hotter. Probably shoot for 156F next time
3. This yeast was awesome. Ate all my sugars. I would pull this off primary when I hit about 1.018.

Critique me! Let me know if I can change anything. Or ask questions!

Thanks for all of your wisdom also. Couldnt have done it without yous!

 

[BrewinSoldier]

My keg of this just tapped so I think I may go for version#2. This time around I think I'm going to forgo the 60min hops and maybe use citra @15 or 10mins to get the bittering. Also going to use Conan as I seem to like the flavor profile of that yeast better. Hopefully it won't dry it out as much as the 1318 did for me.

 

[arnobg]

Brewed this yesterday and about hit all my numbers spot on and had a perfect brew day. The wort in the fermenter smelled AMAZING when oxygenating the wort.

I usually dry hop in a hop sack in the fermenter however, I am considering throwing the loose pellets straight in. I use a spigot to rack to my keg. Will this cause issues? I've never thrown them straight in before, I don't feel like dealing with the bag and draining it this time with that much hops.

 

[murphyslaw]

Brewed this yesterday and about hit all my numbers spot on and had a perfect brew day. The wort in the fermenter smelled AMAZING when oxygenating the wort.

I usually dry hop in a hop sack in the fermenter however, I am considering throwing the loose pellets straight in. I use a spigot to rack to my keg. Will this cause issues? I've never thrown them straight in before, I don't feel like dealing with the bag and draining it this time with that much hops.

Spigot-->hose passing through lid to bottom? That would probably be fine. That's how I did it.

I tried spigot-->hose-->liquid out post and had trouble.

I think most on here who go through the liquid out post have a screen where they pick up the beer from the fermenter, like on the diptube. I don't see how to do that with a spigot.

 

[EndOfLine]

Looks good! In the future, you can really make this style of beer come alive with a few water adjustments. Do you use tap water? What is the profile?

 

[MMP126]

Looks good! In the future, you can really make this style of beer come alive with a few water adjustments. Do you use tap water? What is the profile?

I am thinking that you were asking me haha! Lots going on in this thread. But, thank you!

I use all tap water. I have not gotten into water chemistry yet. I would like to, but I am pretty new to the game (done about 5 AG brews) so I want to get my basics down as best as I can, before I learn something else.

It will be in the works!

 

[arnobg]

Spigot-->hose passing through lid to bottom? That would probably be fine. That's how I did it.

I tried spigot-->hose-->liquid out post and had trouble.

I think most on here who go through the liquid out post have a screen where they pick up the beer from the fermenter, like on the diptube. I don't see how to do that with a spigot.

I use a bucket with a valve about an inch off the bottom. That's what I'm concerned about clogging if throwing the pellets right in.

 

[stickyfinger]

I use a bucket with a valve about an inch off the bottom. That's what I'm concerned about clogging if throwing the pellets right in.

a friend uses a big mouth bubbler with spigot. before racking he swirls it ip and tilts it back on a book. then the trub is below valve level

 

[Braufessor]

I am thinking that you were asking me haha! Lots going on in this thread. But, thank you!

I use all tap water. I have not gotten into water chemistry yet. I would like to, but I am pretty new to the game (done about 5 AG brews) so I want to get my basics down as best as I can, before I learn something else.

It will be in the works!

Nothing to even really learn if you want to adjust water in a simple way.
100% RO water
1 level tsp each of Gypsum and CaCl per 5 gallons of water (mash and sparge)
That will give you 120-140ppm of sulfate and Chloride and the right amount of Calcium, and the right pH.

That is all you need to do in regard to this beer if you want to get your water in the ballpark.

 

[murphyslaw]

I use a bucket with a valve about an inch off the bottom. That's what I'm concerned about clogging if throwing the pellets right in.

Hard to say with a bucket if you can't see the trub. In the 3 times I've used my fermonster, my trub has been below the spigot.

I don't think couple oz of loose hops will be the difference in the trub rising above the spigot.

 

[Tarpon87]

Kegged mine on saturday, was worried about trub as well, no issues though. Maybe the flow was slow enough through the out post that it didnt pull much in.

 

[MMP126]

Nothing to even really learn if you want to adjust water in a simple way.
100% RO water
1 level tsp each of Gypsum and CaCl per 5 gallons of water (mash and sparge)
That will give you 120-140ppm of sulfate and Chloride and the right amount of Calcium, and the right pH.

That is all you need to do in regard to this beer if you want to get your water in the ballpark.

Thanks Braufessor!

What is the best way to get RO water? Can you buy it from a store? I do 3gal BIAB, no sparge, so I am thinking that I would just add the additions right to my strike water? Is that correct?

 

[ultravista]

1 tsp of each per 5 gallons would be fine.

What amount, or weight, do you suggest for a higher Chloride to Sulfate ratio, say 2:1?

1 tsp of Gypsum and CaCl will give you 120-140ppm - that is 120 (Gypsum)-140ppm (CaCl)?

 

[jjw5015]

Thanks Braufessor!

What is the best way to get RO water? Can you buy it from a store? I do 3gal BIAB, no sparge, so I am thinking that I would just add the additions right to my strike water? Is that correct?

the filling stations at Walmart. $.37 per gallon.

 

[MMP126]

the filling stations at Walmart. $.37 per gallon.

Oh, nice. Thank you.

 

[Braufessor]

Thanks Braufessor!

What is the best way to get RO water? Can you buy it from a store? I do 3gal BIAB, no sparge, so I am thinking that I would just add the additions right to my strike water? Is that correct?

I just have some of the clear, blue refillable jugs (3 gallon jugs). I use the refill station at walmart (and other grocery stores). Usually .37 cents a gallon or something like that. Cheapest, easiest way to get RO water basically.

Yes - just add the total amt. of salts you need for the total amt. of water you are using. Add them all right away and stir them into the water before adding grain.

 

[Braufessor]

What amount, or weight, do you suggest for a higher Chloride to Sulfate ratio, say 2:1?

1 tsp of Gypsum and CaCl will give you 120-140ppm - that is 120 (Gypsum)-140ppm (CaCl)?

1 tsp (per 5 gallons RO water) of gypsum = 120-140ppm of Sulfate
1 tsp (per 5 gallons RO water) of CaCl = 120-140ppm of Chloride.

The ratio itself is meaningless...... 2:1 ratio could be-
10:5
100:50
1000:500
Obviously, these all have the same ratio, but would produce a staggeringly different beer.

If you want 2:1 Chloride to Sulfate ratio, I would do something along the lines of this (per 5 gallons RO water):
1 tsp CaCl: .5 tsp Gypsum (approximately 130:65ppm)
or
1.3 tsp CaCl: .65 tsp Gypsum (approximately 175:90ppm)

Something like the above would get you in the general ballpark of where you want to be and get you in a useful 2:1 ratio.

 

[Matt_man]

I think I am going to give this style a try and bottle it as well (maybe throw a prayer or two to whichever deity you choose for me fellow homebrewers?)

Anyways, I am going to try to use what I have on hand.

80% 2 Row (Rahr)
18% White Wheat
2% Honey

Does anyone foresee any issues with this? Stopping by the store and getting some quick oats wouldn't be a problem but I don't use it that often.

Finally getting around to making this tomorrow but I am stumped on which hops I should go with.

I have a pound each of Cascade, Columbus, Simcoe, Amarillo, and Citra to play around with. Having never made this style before I am hesitant to go all Citra. Maybe 1oz each of Simcoe/Amarillo/Citra for each addition? Or maybe 2:1 Citra/Amarillo? I have a bit of Nugget lying around I could bitter with but I was also thinking that Columbus might be better suited. Does anyone have any thoughts?

 

[plazola86]

Finally getting around to making this tomorrow but I am stumped on which hops I should go with.

I have a pound each of Cascade, Columbus, Simcoe, Amarillo, and Citra to play around with. Having never made this style before I am hesitant to go all Citra. Maybe 1oz each of Simcoe/Amarillo/Citra for each addition? Or maybe 2:1 Citra/Amarillo? I have a bit of Nugget lying around I could bitter with but I was also thinking that Columbus might be better suited. Does anyone have any thoughts?

I would bitter with Columbus. Both of these options would give you good results, I don't think you could go wrong with either. If you have a pound of each hop you could do a batch of both!

1oz each of Simcoe/Amarillo/Citra for each addition - Good mix lots of floral/grape fruit aroma and taste.

2:1 Citra/Amarillo - Will give you a fruiter (mango)/ citrus aroma and flavor.

 

[Braufessor]

Finally getting around to making this tomorrow but I am stumped on which hops I should go with.

I have a pound each of Cascade, Columbus, Simcoe, Amarillo, and Citra to play around with. Having never made this style before I am hesitant to go all Citra. Maybe 1oz each of Simcoe/Amarillo/Citra for each addition? Or maybe 2:1 Citra/Amarillo? I have a bit of Nugget lying around I could bitter with but I was also thinking that Columbus might be better suited. Does anyone have any thoughts?

I think you are on the right track with either of those ideas. I would bitter with the Columbus or Nugget (.5-.75 ounces) and then I like the idea of 1 ounce each of Citra/Amarillo/simcoe ..... that should be a very nice combo. The only two suggestions I would have in regard to the hops you have to work with are these personal preferences:

* I would personally not overdo the Columbus if you choose to use them in the late additions/dry hop. I think a little can go a long way with columbus, and it can be over done.

* If you choose to use some cascade, I would use it in the flameout/whirlpool, but not in the dry hop. I find it can come off as dry in this beer.

Again - those are my personal preferences.

 

[jpb2716]

Braufessor,

I've read through at least 90% of this thread and have learned a ton. I'm scanning back through and mainly focusing on water chemistry for this style. I noticed that back in post #1 you were liking 67 sulfate and 128 chloride. In your update post #1418 you were liking 147 sulfate and 80 chloride.

What levels are you liking now and why? I've done this style at around 140 sulfate and 80 chloride with great results. What differences can I expect if I'd do the reverse of that and go for around 80 sulfate and 140 chloride? I've only been doing water adjustments for a short period of time so I'm hesitant.

As always, thanks for the help!

 

[hezagenius]

I brewed this up 7 days ago. This pic was from Day 4 when I transferred to the dry hop keg. I added 1oz Columbus and 7oz Mosaic after this pic. 1318 yeast. Ferm started at 63.5 and ramped it up to 68 over 4 days. It's been dry hopping at room temp for 3 days. In another 2 days (Day 9), I will crash/carb it for a few days and then transfer to a serving keg.

 

[Matt_man]

I would bitter with Columbus. Both of these options would give you good results, I don't think you could go wrong with either. If you have a pound of each hop you could do a batch of both!

1oz each of Simcoe/Amarillo/Citra for each addition - Good mix lots of floral/grape fruit aroma and taste.

2:1 Citra/Amarillo - Will give you a fruiter (mango)/ citrus aroma and flavor.

I think you are on the right track with either of those ideas. I would bitter with the Columbus or Nugget (.5-.75 ounces) and then I like the idea of 1 ounce each of Citra/Amarillo/simcoe ..... that should be a very nice combo. The only two suggestions I would have in regard to the hops you have to work with are these personal preferences:

* I would personally not overdo the Columbus if you choose to use them in the late additions/dry hop. I think a little can go a long way with columbus, and it can be over done.

* If you choose to use some cascade, I would use it in the flameout/whirlpool, but not in the dry hop. I find it can come off as dry in this beer.

Again - those are my personal preferences.

Thanks for the opinions! I'll be sure to post the final product once I am done and let you know how it turned out!

 

[Braufessor]

Braufessor,

I've read through at least 90% of this thread and have learned a ton. I'm scanning back through and mainly focusing on water chemistry for this style. I noticed that back in post #1 you were liking 67 sulfate and 128 chloride. In your update post #1418 you were liking 147 sulfate and 80 chloride.

What levels are you liking now and why? I've done this style at around 140 sulfate and 80 chloride with great results. What differences can I expect if I'd do the reverse of that and go for around 80 sulfate and 140 chloride? I've only been doing water adjustments for a short period of time so I'm hesitant.

As always, thanks for the help!

Having brewed this over 50 times by now, and using water profiles that generally fall in the 3 Sulfate:Chloride ratios below:
140:70
70:140
125:125

I can honestly say that I just don't think it matters that much. You might find a personal preference one way or the other - but I don't think it will be significant. I have done each of the above 10+ times. I have been pleased with all of them. I even did all 3 at the same time and had all on tap together - I could not reliably tell the difference between them in blind triangle testing and neither could anyone else who I served them to in a blind fashion.

the high sulfate "might" have been a touch drier.... "maybe" the high chloride was a bit rounder..... but, not so much that they totally stood out. And, certainly not enough that you would call one "good" and the other "bad."

As long as you get the numbers in that ball park, you are going to be good to go. You can try the different combinations, even try 2 batches with different profiles at the same time..... Perhaps you can pick something up.... but, I have come to the conclusion that anywhere in that range will get you a good beer.

I would say currently.... the last few batches - I have been using the 125:125 range.

Try the other ranges to see how they come off to you - I would say worse case scenario is you might "feel" like you liked one more than the other. Both will be good though. The only time I have done something I did not like was when I went 200 Sulfate: 50 Chloride - I found that distinctly dry/assertive/crisp for this type of beer.

 

[ryangt15]

so got to try my attempt today, came out pretty good. I would reduce the bittering hops just a little bit, and at least in this bottle i might have a touch of oxidation in it (thus the brownish hue to it). But over all very happy with this and will brew it over and over and tweak it.

 

[griffi]

I found plenty of Citra, but I'm not finding Mosaic or Galaxy. Any good substitutes?

 

[Braufessor]

I found plenty of Citra, but I'm not finding Mosaic or Galaxy. Any good substitutes?

Galaxy/Mosaic available at both of these:
http://labelpeelers.com/hops/
http://www.farmhousebrewingsupply.com/1-lb-bags/