New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Matt_man said:
I think I am going to give this style a try and bottle it as well (maybe throw a prayer or two to whichever deity you choose for me fellow homebrewers?)

Anyways, I am going to try to use what I have on hand.

80% 2 Row (Rahr)
18% White Wheat
2% Honey

Does anyone foresee any issues with this? Stopping by the store and getting some quick oats wouldn't be a problem but I don't use it that often.
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Finally getting around to making this tomorrow but I am stumped on which hops I should go with.

I have a pound each of Cascade, Columbus, Simcoe, Amarillo, and Citra to play around with. Having never made this style before I am hesitant to go all Citra. Maybe 1oz each of Simcoe/Amarillo/Citra for each addition? Or maybe 2:1 Citra/Amarillo? I have a bit of Nugget lying around I could bitter with but I was also thinking that Columbus might be better suited. Does anyone have any thoughts?
 
Matt_man said:
Finally getting around to making this tomorrow but I am stumped on which hops I should go with.

I have a pound each of Cascade, Columbus, Simcoe, Amarillo, and Citra to play around with. Having never made this style before I am hesitant to go all Citra. Maybe 1oz each of Simcoe/Amarillo/Citra for each addition? Or maybe 2:1 Citra/Amarillo? I have a bit of Nugget lying around I could bitter with but I was also thinking that Columbus might be better suited. Does anyone have any thoughts?
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I would bitter with Columbus. Both of these options would give you good results, I don't think you could go wrong with either. If you have a pound of each hop you could do a batch of both!

1oz each of Simcoe/Amarillo/Citra for each addition - Good mix lots of floral/grape fruit aroma and taste.

2:1 Citra/Amarillo - Will give you a fruiter (mango)/ citrus aroma and flavor.
 
Matt_man said:
Finally getting around to making this tomorrow but I am stumped on which hops I should go with.

I have a pound each of Cascade, Columbus, Simcoe, Amarillo, and Citra to play around with. Having never made this style before I am hesitant to go all Citra. Maybe 1oz each of Simcoe/Amarillo/Citra for each addition? Or maybe 2:1 Citra/Amarillo? I have a bit of Nugget lying around I could bitter with but I was also thinking that Columbus might be better suited. Does anyone have any thoughts?
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I think you are on the right track with either of those ideas. I would bitter with the Columbus or Nugget (.5-.75 ounces) and then I like the idea of 1 ounce each of Citra/Amarillo/simcoe ..... that should be a very nice combo. The only two suggestions I would have in regard to the hops you have to work with are these personal preferences:

* I would personally not overdo the Columbus if you choose to use them in the late additions/dry hop. I think a little can go a long way with columbus, and it can be over done.

* If you choose to use some cascade, I would use it in the flameout/whirlpool, but not in the dry hop. I find it can come off as dry in this beer.

Again - those are my personal preferences.
 
Braufessor,

I've read through at least 90% of this thread and have learned a ton. I'm scanning back through and mainly focusing on water chemistry for this style. I noticed that back in post #1 you were liking 67 sulfate and 128 chloride. In your update post #1418 you were liking 147 sulfate and 80 chloride.

What levels are you liking now and why? I've done this style at around 140 sulfate and 80 chloride with great results. What differences can I expect if I'd do the reverse of that and go for around 80 sulfate and 140 chloride? I've only been doing water adjustments for a short period of time so I'm hesitant.

As always, thanks for the help!
 
I brewed this up 7 days ago. This pic was from Day 4 when I transferred to the dry hop keg. I added 1oz Columbus and 7oz Mosaic after this pic. 1318 yeast. Ferm started at 63.5 and ramped it up to 68 over 4 days. It's been dry hopping at room temp for 3 days. In another 2 days (Day 9), I will crash/carb it for a few days and then transfer to a serving keg.

F7HVsur.jpg
 
plazola86 said:
I would bitter with Columbus. Both of these options would give you good results, I don't think you could go wrong with either. If you have a pound of each hop you could do a batch of both!

1oz each of Simcoe/Amarillo/Citra for each addition - Good mix lots of floral/grape fruit aroma and taste.

2:1 Citra/Amarillo - Will give you a fruiter (mango)/ citrus aroma and flavor.
Click to expand...

Braufessor said:
I think you are on the right track with either of those ideas. I would bitter with the Columbus or Nugget (.5-.75 ounces) and then I like the idea of 1 ounce each of Citra/Amarillo/simcoe ..... that should be a very nice combo. The only two suggestions I would have in regard to the hops you have to work with are these personal preferences:

* I would personally not overdo the Columbus if you choose to use them in the late additions/dry hop. I think a little can go a long way with columbus, and it can be over done.

* If you choose to use some cascade, I would use it in the flameout/whirlpool, but not in the dry hop. I find it can come off as dry in this beer.

Again - those are my personal preferences.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the opinions! I'll be sure to post the final product once I am done and let you know how it turned out!
 
jpb2716 said:
Braufessor,

I've read through at least 90% of this thread and have learned a ton. I'm scanning back through and mainly focusing on water chemistry for this style. I noticed that back in post #1 you were liking 67 sulfate and 128 chloride. In your update post #1418 you were liking 147 sulfate and 80 chloride.

What levels are you liking now and why? I've done this style at around 140 sulfate and 80 chloride with great results. What differences can I expect if I'd do the reverse of that and go for around 80 sulfate and 140 chloride? I've only been doing water adjustments for a short period of time so I'm hesitant.

As always, thanks for the help!
Click to expand...

Having brewed this over 50 times by now, and using water profiles that generally fall in the 3 Sulfate:Chloride ratios below:
140:70
70:140
125:125

I can honestly say that I just don't think it matters that much. You might find a personal preference one way or the other - but I don't think it will be significant. I have done each of the above 10+ times. I have been pleased with all of them. I even did all 3 at the same time and had all on tap together - I could not reliably tell the difference between them in blind triangle testing and neither could anyone else who I served them to in a blind fashion.

the high sulfate "might" have been a touch drier.... "maybe" the high chloride was a bit rounder..... but, not so much that they totally stood out. And, certainly not enough that you would call one "good" and the other "bad."

As long as you get the numbers in that ball park, you are going to be good to go. You can try the different combinations, even try 2 batches with different profiles at the same time..... Perhaps you can pick something up.... but, I have come to the conclusion that anywhere in that range will get you a good beer.

I would say currently.... the last few batches - I have been using the 125:125 range.

Try the other ranges to see how they come off to you - I would say worse case scenario is you might "feel" like you liked one more than the other. Both will be good though. The only time I have done something I did not like was when I went 200 Sulfate: 50 Chloride - I found that distinctly dry/assertive/crisp for this type of beer.
 
so got to try my attempt today, came out pretty good. I would reduce the bittering hops just a little bit, and at least in this bottle i might have a touch of oxidation in it (thus the brownish hue to it). But over all very happy with this and will brew it over and over and tweak it.

IMG_2146.jpg
 
jpb2716 said:
What levels are you liking now and why? I've done this style at around 140 sulfate and 80 chloride with great results. What differences can I expect if I'd do the reverse of that and go for around 80 sulfate and 140 chloride? I've only been doing water adjustments for a short period of time so I'm hesitant.
Click to expand...

I did an experiment a month or so ago and did exactly that although my ratio was a little higher (160-50, or thereabouts). The high chloride version was definitely smoother and rounder at first. I bottled these, and it *seems* like the high sulfate version stayed brighter and hoppier longer. both tasted very good, but they were definitely different.
 
Braufessor said:
Try the other ranges to see how they come off to you - I would say worse case scenario is you might "feel" like you liked one more than the other. Both will be good though. The only time I have done something I did not like was when I went 200 Sulfate: 50 Chloride - I found that distinctly dry/assertive/crisp for this type of beer.
Click to expand...


Thanks for your help! I'm going to play around with the three ratios that you recommended and see what I like the best.
 
@plazola86 Did you get any strawberry from the Belma? I only got some (nice) pepper and coriander from it. Ended up tasting more like a tripel than an IPA. Curious if anyone has tips for how to take it in a more fruity pale ale direction.
 
Brewed this today. Pretty much stuck to your grain bill and kept the honey malt. A little trouble with mash temps getting used to new boilcoil in my ebiab... but hit 1.062 OG and pitched WLP0007. All that Citra, Mosaic, and Amarillo sure smelled good. Looking forward to seeing how it comes out. Thanks for the good work on the recipe.
 
Looking for some feedback. My first home-brew is currently fermenting. It is a NE IPA, supposed to be a trillium fort point clone. I followed the directions for the extract brew and It seems it should only spend about 9-10 days in the fermenter, just want to see if this sounds right. I have taken some gravity readings, it is at about 1.017 and looks like the dunk at the top has broke. I added the dry hops after 4 days, but think I should have done it at 3 as looks like most activity slowed down a lot by day 4. I plan on moving it to a keg on Tuesday which will be 9 days since I brewed it. I was going to let it crash in the keezer for 24 hours, then hit it with the Blichmann quick carb and give it a try.

I know NE IPAs seem to be quick hitters but does the schedule sound about right? Thanks.
 
marjen said:
Looking for some feedback. My first home-brew is currently fermenting. It is a NE IPA, supposed to be a trillium fort point clone. I followed the directions for the extract brew and It seems it should only spend about 9-10 days in the fermenter, just want to see if this sounds right. I have taken some gravity readings, it is at about 1.017 and looks like the dunk at the top has broke. I added the dry hops after 4 days, but think I should have done it at 3 as looks like most activity slowed down a lot by day 4. I plan on moving it to a keg on Tuesday which will be 9 days since I brewed it. I was going to let it crash in the keezer for 254 hours, then hit it with the Blichmann quick carb and give it a try.

I know NE IPAs seem to be quick hitters but does the schedule sound about right? Thanks.
Click to expand...

254 hours seems a bit long to me...
 
srqbrew said:
@plazola86 Did you get any strawberry from the Belma? I only got some (nice) pepper and coriander from it. Ended up tasting more like a tripel than an IPA. Curious if anyone has tips for how to take it in a more fruity pale ale direction.
Click to expand...


No strawberry at all. That's the flavor/aroma I was hoping for too. I got very muted flavor and aroma, i can't pick out any flavors or aromas that they use to describe this hop. I used 12 ounces total! It tasted very green (like grass) the first couple days in the keg. Big let down.
 
plazola86 said:
No strawberry at all. That's the flavor/aroma I was hoping for too. I got very muted flavor and aroma, i can't pick out any flavors or aromas that they use to describe this hop. I used 12 ounces total! It tasted very green (like grass) the first couple days in the keg. Big let down.
Click to expand...


sometimes the true character comes out after some aging, hard to believe but true
 
@srwbrew No strawberry at all. That's the flavor/aroma I was hoping for too. I got very muted flavor and aroma, i can't pick out any flavors or aromas that they use to describe this hop. I used 12 ounces total! It tasted very green (like grass) the first couple days in the keg. Big let down.
 
srqbrew said:
Interesting! Never would have guessed. Drank it all within a month of brew day (small batch) but maybe I'll give it another try down the line.
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to be clear, this comment was not specifically about Belma, just about hop character in general. I've had Denali be subdued for awhile until the keg sits a few weeks. Then, it comes to the fore somehow.
 
grassfeeder said:
Just brewed up 2 batches of the following recipe today and utilized 2 different yeast strains to try out.

1) Imperial Yeast - A38 Juice
2) Imperial Yeast - A24 Dryhop


Paper Umbrella NE IPA

Brew Method: All Grain
Style Name: American IPA
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 5.5 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 7.5 gallons
Boil Gravity: 1.055
Efficiency: 60% (brew house)


STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.074
Final Gravity: 1.018
ABV (standard): 7.45%
IBU (tinseth): 31.61
SRM (morey): 5.79

FERMENTABLES:
American - Pale 2-Row (73.2%)
Corn Sugar - Dextrose (4.2%)
American - Caramel / Crystal 15L (2.8%)
American - Carapils (Dextrine Malt) (2.8%)
American - White Wheat (8.5%)
Flaked Oats (8.5%)

HOPS:
1 oz - Mosaic, Type: Use: Boil for 30 min, IBU: 31.61
2 oz - Galaxy, Type: Whirlpool for 30 min at 170 °F
2 oz - Citra, Type: Whirlpool for 30 min at 170 °F
2 oz - Mosaic, Type: Whirlpool for 30 min at 170 °F
3 oz - Galaxy, Type: Dry Hop for 5 days
3 oz - Citra, Type: Dry Hop for 5 days
3 oz - Mosaic, Type: Dry Hop for 5 days

MASH GUIDELINES:
1) Infusion, Temp: 152 F, Time: 60 min
2) Sparge, Temp: 168 F, Time: 15 min
Starting Mash Thickness: 1.25 qt/lb

WATER NOTES:
take initial ph reading
approx 1 teaspoon of calcium chloride
take pH reading to target 5.2 ph
1 teaspoon of gypsum to mash.
1 teaspoon of gypsum to boil.
Click to expand...

did you ever post the results of this?
 
stickyfinger said:
to be clear, this comment was not specifically about Belma, just about hop character in general. I've had Denali be subdued for awhile until the keg sits a few weeks. Then, it comes to the fore somehow.
Click to expand...

Funny you should mention that.....
my first NEPA, seemed to imporve with some time in the keg.
I'd say at around 6 weeks (i try to drink most of my PA/IPA within 4-6 weeks) but this one took a little longer, and i would say it was good all the way up to 6 weeks, then it hit its straps for may 1-2 weeks, literally like drinking grapefruit juice. then slowly dissipated from there (by then it was pretty much gone anyway)
 
crusader1612 said:
Funny you should mention that.....

my first NEPA, seemed to imporve with some time in the keg.

I'd say at around 6 weeks (i try to drink most of my PA/IPA within 4-6 weeks) but this one took a little longer, and i would say it was good all the way up to 6 weeks, then it hit its straps for may 1-2 weeks, literally like drinking grapefruit juice. then slowly dissipated from there (by then it was pretty much gone anyway)
Click to expand...


some of them seem to change a lot through their life in the keg. others, not as much. i have been digging the flavor at around 4-6 wks in the keg lately. never thought that would be the case. i am getting a lot longer life out of these by exposing them to as little O2 as possible. no gravity checks, dry hop at like day 5, rack to FULLY purged keg. dry hop is 2 oz/gallon in one addn.
 
When doing the dry hop, do you just dump the hops in and leave them or put them in a bag and pull them to prevent the vegetal taste?

I am planning on brewing my fists NEIPA. I have read through the Julius thread, but not this one
 
Sbe2 said:
When doing the dry hop, do you just dump the hops in and leave them or put them in a bag and pull them to prevent the vegetal taste?

I am planning on brewing my fists NEIPA. I have read through the Julius thread, but not this one
Click to expand...

I throw them in lose. I have never had a problem with vegetal flavors because the hops were in contact with the beer for 5-7-10 days. More than likely, vegetal flavors are due to bad hops, bad hop combinations, too much of the wrong type of hops or other issues. Hops don't just give vegetal flavors because they are in your beer for a week or 10 days.
 
First brew ever and i think it came out pretty damn good. Everybody thats had it has been blown away by the aroma, they all ask if i used pineapples and tangerines in it.

20170312_175645.jpg


20170312_175701.jpg
 
EndOfLine said:
So guys, I am really happy with this NE pale ale:

C6hP9ENWkAAjLiq.jpg:large


Glen Eagle, Floor malted MO,
some Honey malt,

Galaxy
Amarillo
and Mosiac,

with Lager 940 yeast.
Click to expand...

Can you tell if the lager yeast boosts the malt perception? I usually think of lager yeasts as turning a typical malt bill into a very malty malt bill (compared with ale yeast.)
 
stickyfinger said:
Can you tell if the lager yeast boosts the malt perception? I usually think of lager yeasts as turning a typical malt bill into a very malty malt bill (compared with ale yeast.)
Click to expand...

Yes, it does depending on the strain.

This strain 940 Mexican strain seems to "boost" malt and hops by staying out of the way. It's almost "to" clean, but that is what I was going for, and I find it very refreshing.

800 is good, but it does produce some sulfur, that I find gets in the way of American hops.

34/70 is also great. Maybe reduces some hop flavor but really let's malt shine.

I have fermented all of these yeasts at ale temps.
 
I've been out of touch with this thread so sorry if this has been asked or bounced around.

I love to dry hop the crap out of my beers. Most of my brews are in the 1.040-1.055 range and get the same dry hop no matter what the OG is. I've been throwing 2 oz of dry hops in at the tail end of fermentation and then hitting it with another 5 oz plus on day 7.

I do not pull the dry hops out after adding. So the first round of hops are in there for 7-8 days and the second are in the beer for 3-4 days. My question is, do you think the long dry hop period allows the humulinones to be extracted at a higher rate than compared to a shorter contact time? I'm getting too much bitterness from the dry hop I feel (see Scott Janish's dry hopping can add bitterness article). I enjoy the aroma on the brews but to me they are still coming out too bitter. To help get the 'softness' I think less bitterness would help. Janish talks about how dry hopping can add bitterness but I don't remember seeing anything about contact time and how it could affect the beer or maybe the humulinones are extracted in a day or less anyways!

With the beer I just made I only WP hops and then will add 1 or 2 oz at the tail end of fermentation and then pour the rest in and allow to sit 24 hrs. before cold crashing. Hoping to get less of that perceived dry hop bitterness.

Any thoughts?
 
lilbova3 said:
I've been out of touch with this thread so sorry if this has been asked or bounced around.

I love to dry hop the crap out of my beers. Most of my brews are in the 1.040-1.055 range and get the same dry hop no matter what the OG is. I've been throwing 2 oz of dry hops in at the tail end of fermentation and then hitting it with another 5 oz plus on day 7.

I do not pull the dry hops out after adding. So the first round of hops are in there for 7-8 days and the second are in the beer for 3-4 days. My question is, do you think the long dry hop period allows the humulinones to be extracted at a higher rate than compared to a shorter contact time? I'm getting too much bitterness from the dry hop I feel (see Scott Janish's dry hopping can add bitterness article). I enjoy the aroma on the brews but to me they are still coming out too bitter. To help get the 'softness' I think less bitterness would help. Janish talks about how dry hopping can add bitterness but I don't remember seeing anything about contact time and how it could affect the beer or maybe the humulinones are extracted in a day or less anyways!

With the beer I just made I only WP hops and then will add 1 or 2 oz at the tail end of fermentation and then pour the rest in and allow to sit 24 hrs. before cold crashing. Hoping to get less of that perceived dry hop bitterness.

Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

I guess the first question would be - what are you using for your initial bittering hop addition?

Also, I would say there is a huge difference between a 1.040 and 1.055 beer. 1.040 is very low gravity to hold up against lots of hops. The hopping that works best in a 1.055 beer is not going to be the same as what works out in a 1.040 beer.
 
Braufessor said:
I guess the first question would be - what are you using for your initial bittering hop addition?



Also, I would say there is a huge difference between a 1.040 and 1.055 beer. 1.040 is very low gravity to hold up against lots of hops. The hopping that works best in a 1.055 beer is not going to be the same as what works out in a 1.040 beer.
Click to expand...


I agree. I do adjust slightly for the lower gravity. I don't use any bittering hops in any of my NE beers. All WP and DH only.

Maybe I need to look at amounts rather than contact time.
 
try lower temp on WP hops? Some hop varieties are just more bitter in the dry hop. Also, i think Janish points toward older hops or high-beta-acid hops as being more bitter in dry hop. Find what hops you can add a lot of and not get bitterness or try a new batch. I also omit any bittering hops and often use hops only in the dry hop. this results in very low bitterness usually.
 
stickyfinger said:
try lower temp on WP hops? Some hop varieties are just more bitter in the dry hop. Also, i think Janish points toward older hops or high-beta-acid hops as being more bitter in dry hop. Find what hops you can add a lot of and not get bitterness or try a new batch. I also omit any bittering hops and often use hops only in the dry hop. this results in very low bitterness usually.
Click to expand...


I WP beginning at 175* and let naturally cool so it shouldn't be getting too many IBUs I'd think.
 
lilbova3 said:
I WP beginning at 175* and let naturally cool so it shouldn't be getting too many IBUs I'd think.
Click to expand...

Yeah probably true. At a certain point I find I am looking to get as much hop flavor and aroma into the beer as is possible without making the beer too bitter for my taste. In that quest, I think it may be beneficial to look at every aspect of the process, including WP temps.

I'm doing an NEIPA tomorrow and haven't used a hopstand in months but have been debating throwing in maybe 1 oz/gal. when I shut off the heat and then drop to 160-170 ASAP and let spin for at least 60 minutes, maybe 90 if I am busy snowblowing during the huge storm that is supposed to be coming to the NE! I've been rereading and reading a lot of posts and such about hopstands and it seems there may be something to a hopstand adding to a better mouthfeel and rounder flavor. It's one more way to pack more hops into the beer too, as I think I am approaching saturation levels at 2 oz/gal. in the dry hop.
 

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