New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[LateraLex]

Gearing up to give this one a shot in the next week or two.... Clearly the water profile is pretty important, so will someone let me know if anything looks off on my EZ water profile page or the beersmith recipe? I am doing BIAB, so I put the full 6.5gal in the mash water section. The current water profile are from values some local homebrewers in my town use, so I assume they are right.

I then tried to tweak the variables to get the profile as close to what Braufessor listed on post 1418, starting with something closer to 1:1 Sulfate:Chloride.

 

[phyllobeddo]

I brewed my first batch of 2017 today! I brewed 34 batches last year and my other NE IPA was the best of the year. I'm hoping this one is even better than the last. I used more adjuncts this time than last. Hopefully the Pilsner malt will turn out good.

2.5 gallon batch

2 lb Maris Otter 2 row
2 lb Floor Malted Bohemian Pilsner
8 oz Flaked Oats
4 oz Flaked Barley
4 oz Weyermann Wheat (white)
2 oz Flaked Wheat
2 oz Gambrinus Honey Malt
2 oz Acid Malt

2 g Magnum 60 min

14 g Citra - Flameout (steeped for 60 minutes)
14 g Mosaic - Flameout (steeped for 60 minutes)
4 g Columbus - Flameout (steeped for 60 minutes)

14 g Citra - @ 173 degrees (steeped for 35 minutes)
14 g Mosaic - @ 173 degrees (steeped for 35 minutes)
4 g Columbus - @ 173 degrees (steeped for 35 minutes)

Dry Hop:

Day 3
21 g Citra
14 g Mosaic
4 g Columbus

Day 9
21 g Citra
14 g Mosaic
4 g Columbus

Day 12 - cold crash
Day 14 - keg

Yeast - Wyeast 1318. Pitched a 1L starter @ 63 degrees that had spun for 19 hours.
Mashed @ 153 for 1 hour 45 minutes.
OG was 1.061. Mash efficiency 82.9% per Beersmith.
Krausen was forming and there was pressure on the air lock a couple of hours after pitching.

I kegged this one today. FG was 1.013. Tasted great; like unfiltered grapefruit juice!

 

[mintyice]

Brewed a weird NE Oat Pils today. 90% pils, 10% TF oat malt. 1.060 OG. 20IBU via hop shot @60 min, 4oz Loral @ 5 min, 2oz Loral @ FO. Raised the Chloride ppm a bit higher than a normal pils. Fermenting it with 34/70 yeast. Split half the wort off for a Wyeast 3724 saison as well. Should be neat!

 

[christyle]

Going in to dry hop #2 after 5 days of dry hop. Started tasting a bit sharp...which usually means too long of a dry hop for me..so pulled first bag and swapped with bag 2. Was going to keg and dry hop but I don't want to get too much hop gunk in there, don't have another free keg for a transfer. Tastes great otherwise tho!

 

[Pratty]

I kegged my attempt at the style a week ago and FK Yeah, taste sensatiional.

Made some slight changes to the malt bill and missed my OG but the hop schdeule and water profile were exact.

Solid pungent aroma with a nice bittering bite that mellows with the mouthfeel and you get that hop resin chewy taste, perfect!!


Malt bill was:

41% Aussie Ale
41% Aussie Pils
18% Rolled Oats

38ibu from Warrior @ 60mins
Citra, Galaxy and Mosaic as per original post for whirlpool and chilled whirlpool.

Fermented with Vermont strain. Added 1st round of hops just as krausen dropped and caught the end of fermentation, dry hopped again after 3days. (no keg hopping)

Chloride was 125ppm and sulphate was 70ppm, pH was 5.4

 

[Braufessor]

I kegged my attempt at the style a week ago and FK Yeah, taste sensatiional.

Made some slight changes to the malt bill and missed my OG but the hop schdeule and water profile were exact.

Solid pungent aroma with a nice bittering bite that mellows with the mouthfeel and you get that hop resin chewy taste, perfect!!


Malt bill was:

41% Aussie Ale
41% Aussie Pils
18% Rolled Oats

38ibu from Warrior @ 60mins
Citra, Galaxy and Mosaic as per original post for whirlpool and chilled whirlpool.

Fermented with Vermont strain. Added 1st round of hops just as krausen dropped and caught the end of fermentation, dry hopped again after 3days. (no keg hopping)

Chloride was 125ppm and sulphate was 70ppm, pH was 5.4

That looks great!

 

[BrewinSoldier]

I kegged my attempt at the style a week ago and FK Yeah, taste sensatiional.

Made some slight changes to the malt bill and missed my OG but the hop schdeule and water profile were exact.

Solid pungent aroma with a nice bittering bite that mellows with the mouthfeel and you get that hop resin chewy taste, perfect!!


Malt bill was:

41% Aussie Ale
41% Aussie Pils
18% Rolled Oats

38ibu from Warrior @ 60mins
Citra, Galaxy and Mosaic as per original post for whirlpool and chilled whirlpool.

Fermented with Vermont strain. Added 1st round of hops just as krausen dropped and caught the end of fermentation, dry hopped again after 3days. (no keg hopping)

Chloride was 125ppm and sulphate was 70ppm, pH was 5.4

That looks pretty good. Forgive my ignorance but what is Aus ale and Aus pilsner? I've never seen those malts before.

 

[emr25]

Brewed a second batch of this a few weeks ago, it's in the dry hop keg now and should be ready to tap within 4-5 days.

Batch 2 (1.070 OG, 1.012 FG, WY1318)

6 lbs Rahr 2 Row
6 lbs Muntons Pale Maris Otter
1 lbs Flaked Oats
0.5 lbs Flaked Barley
0.5 lbs Rahr White Wheat
0.25 lbs Gambrinus Honey
0.25 lbs Briess 2 Row 40L

30 Min - 1.0 oz Columbus
Flameout - 1.5 oz Citra / 1.5 oz Mosaic
Whirlpool - 1.5 oz Citra / 1.5 oz Mosaic
Dry Hop (Day 2) - 1.5 oz Citra / 1.5 oz Mosaic
Dry Hop (Day 11) - 1.5 oz Citra / 1.5 oz Mosaic

Transferred from the dry hop keg to the serving keg early Saturday morning (Day 14).

Carbonated at 40 psi for 12 hours, then 25 psi for 12 hours, then 14 psi for 12 hours. Carbonation is a touch on the low side, but should balance out within a few days.

I get a spiciness (maybe from the yeast) on the finish similar to certain Trillium beers I've had before. That back of the throat burn/tingle. Could it just be that there's some greenness to the yeast, since it's only been 15 days since brew day? Is there anything I should be doing to help get rid of the spicy finish?

This is my first batch with WY1318, previous batch used a Conan variant (Vermont Ale).

Other than the finish, the aroma, flavor, and appearance all seem right on target.

 

[milldoggy]

Transferred from the dry hop keg to the serving keg early Saturday morning (Day 14).

Carbonated at 40 psi for 12 hours, then 25 psi for 12 hours, then 14 psi for 12 hours. Carbonation is a touch on the low side, but should balance out within a few days.

I get a spiciness (maybe from the yeast) on the finish similar to certain Trillium beers I've had before. That back of the throat burn/tingle. Could it just be that there's some greenness to the yeast, since it's only been 15 days since brew day? Is there anything I should be doing to help get rid of the spicy finish?

This is my first batch with WY1318, previous batch used a Conan variant (Vermont Ale).

Other than the finish, the aroma, flavor, and appearance all seem right on target.

I get that on freshly dry hopped beer. It is the fine hop dust, give it a week and it will settle out and the bite will go away. I find these start to shine at 2-3 weeks in the keg. The first 5 pints I get a bunch of hop dust when I dry hop in keg. Debating on trimming my dip tube to reduce the pick up of it.

 

[murphyslaw]

Thanks for all your work on this Braufessor. Every since I made it out to treehouse last year I've wanted to make one of these. Well in my way now...


Here's another data point. Brulosophy experiment on dry hopping at the end of fermentation. No perceptible difference in taste, but it did seem to effect the haze. http://brulosophy.com/2017/01/23/biotransformation-vs-standard-dry-hop-exbeeriment-results/

View attachment 1485181362335.jpg

 

[ultravista]

murphyslaw - looks good, what is the recipe?

 

[murphyslaw]

murphyslaw - looks good, what is the recipe?

I followed the Braufessor's recipe in post #1418 but upped the OG a couple points.

 

[murphyslaw]

Also, there are a lot of posts about the color of these beer, and as people have mentioned, the light plays a big role in that. Here are a couple for reference.

Here's a picture of treehouse haze, purchased via growler fill at the brewery. My understanding is that it was kegged that day or the day prior, and we stopped at a byob restaurant on the way home, so it's as fresh a pour as you can get. It looked brighter in person.

Also attached is a picture of Edward by Hill farmstead. Poured from a keg at a bar in Worcester that same night.

View attachment 1485184167829.jpg

View attachment 1485184255802.jpg

 

[EndOfLine]

Did anyone else read the latest Brulopher exbeerment regarding "juiciness" in NE IPAs?
Summery:

One IPA was dry hopped during primary and after. The control IPA was just dry hopped after primary fermentation.

The biotransformation IPA looked very hazy, and the control looked much clearer. However both IPAs apparently tasted Same-ish.

I am personally of the opinion that the "juiciness" comes from a higher final gravity. Juice is full of sugar, so having more residual sugars in a beer will make it sweeter. Combine that with a boat load of citrus hops, and blam, juicyness.

Think lemonade with no sugar, it is a acidic citrus bomb. Once you add sugar it transforms it to juice.

 

[jammin]

^thats a good point. I measured Juice Box DIPA from Great Notion at 1.015.

 

[murphyslaw]

Did anyone else read the latest Brulopher exbeerment regarding "juiciness" in NE IPAs?

Yes

Here's another data point. Brulosophy experiment on dry hopping at the end of fermentation. No perceptible difference in taste, but it did seem to effect the haze. http://brulosophy.com/2017/01/23/biotransformation-vs-standard-dry-hop-exbeeriment-results/

 

[Cavpilot2000]

murphyslaw - looks good, what is the recipe?

When I make Murphyslaw, I use copious amounts of Murphy, julienned nice and fine. Add some slivered carrots, mayo, salt, pepper, and just a little bit of sweet pickle relish.

It's great for summer picnics!

 

[Pratty]

That looks pretty good. Forgive my ignorance but what is Aus ale and Aus pilsner? I've never seen those malts before.

The malts are made by Joe White Maltings which is the Australian malting company. We only have 2, the other is Barrett Burston.

 

[crusader1612]

http://brulosophy.com/2017/01/23/biotransformation-vs-standard-dry-hop-exbeeriment-results/

Interesting read for those out there.

On a similar note, I've never done an early biotransformation dryhop before, and i note in the above that the early DH is much larger than the second dryhop, is there a reason why it as done this way, or do people use 2 dryhops of a similar size?

 

[BrewinSoldier]

I get that on freshly dry hopped beer. It is the fine hop dust, give it a week and it will settle out and the bite will go away. I find these start to shine at 2-3 weeks in the keg. The first 5 pints I get a bunch of hop dust when I dry hop in keg. Debating on trimming my dip tube to reduce the pick up of it.

No need to cut the dip tube. Get one of these guys. You always draw from the top of the keg down. I have 4 of them now and they work great.

http://www.clearbeerdraughtsystem.com

 

[emr25]

I get that on freshly dry hopped beer. It is the fine hop dust, give it a week and it will settle out and the bite will go away. I find these start to shine at 2-3 weeks in the keg. The first 5 pints I get a bunch of hop dust when I dry hop in keg. Debating on trimming my dip tube to reduce the pick up of it.

Thanks, I was mostly thinking about the yeast but fine hop particles may be the problem.

I pulled another 10 oz sample tonight and it is night and day from yesterday. Still a very faint spiciness/tingle, but nowhere near what it was.

I get a great grapefruit/pineapple hop juice flavor without much apparent bitterness, which could make this batch dangerous at ~7.8% ABV.

 

[Braufessor]

The entire fleet is full..... unfortunately no IPA's in there.... beers for NHC - Blonde, Scottish 70, Dark Mild, Ordinary Bitter. Got the guard dogs on patrol.

It is not all doom and gloom though... I do have 2 kegs of NE IPA on hand. This beer is the recipe from post 1418, except used 1:1:1 Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy. Conan yeast. 120:120 on the water. Also - did all dry hopping in primary - no dry hop keg on this one.

 

[tjosborne]

No need to cut the dip tube. Get one of these guys. You always draw from the top of the keg down. I have 4 of them now and they work great.



http://www.clearbeerdraughtsystem.com

So do you just throw the hops right in the keg, no bag or anything? How much beer do one of those leave or will it get it all out?

 

[nbbyrd]

First of all, thanks to all of y'all for the wealth of knowledge and information in this thread and on this forum. I've been slowly learning more and more each day and try to become a better brewer with each batch. With that being said, I just kegged for the first time in my first kegerator that I built this weekend--and it was an iteration of this recipe.

I used 2-Row for the base (77%) with equal amounts of the adjuncts and a little corn sugar at the end of the boil to up my Abv and dry it out a bit. Columbus for a first wort hop bittering charge and then equal amounts of Citra, Mosaic, and Simcoe at flame out, whirlpool, and one round of dry hop after 7 days in primary and with no secondary. Also my first time using WLP095 Burlington Ale yeast and it did great! I saved a little from the pouch and stepped up a starter that is going strong in another IPA right now too.

Force carbonated at 30 psi and 38 degrees and then purged and set to serving pressure (~8 psi) 24 hours later. I'm a fan of the cloudy orange juice look and didn't quite get it, but it is a lovely glowing hazy orange and tastes and smells delicious. Notes of bright orange and citrus blossoms, tropical fruit, and stone fruit, with just the right amount of balanced bitterness. Looking forward to my next batch!

Cheers!
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1485219984.294135.jpg

 

[murphyslaw]

So I did as Braufessor suggested and made a blonde ale (centennial blonde) with the first generation of giga yeasts Vermont ipa. I just tasted my first glass and I'm getting a lot of esters. Is that normal? I know it's supposed to be of English origin but it's not something Ive noticed in the tree house or hill farmstead beers I've tried.

I fermented at 68 for 14 days. For my NE ipa, I started at 64 and planned to ramp up 1 or 2 degrees a day but after tasting my blonde, I don't think I'll go any higher than 65.

I've tried using wlp002 in a pale ale and the mix of hops and esters did not suit my tastes. I know a lot of people like that, though.

 

[PissyFingers]

The entire fleet is full..... unfortunately no IPA's in there.... beers for NHC - Blonde, Scottish 70, Dark Mild, Ordinary Bitter. Got the guard dogs on patrol.

It is not all doom and gloom though... I do have 2 kegs of NE IPA on hand. This beer is the recipe from post 1418, except used 1:1:1 Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy. Conan yeast. 120:120 on the water. Also - did all dry hopping in primary - no dry hop keg on this one.

1 question, can you smell/taste a difference from only dry hopping in the primary as opposed to your usual double dry hop method, is the aroma loss
really noticeably?

cheers!

 

[Braufessor]

1 question, can you smell/taste a difference from only dry hopping in the primary as opposed to your usual double dry hop method, is the aroma loss
really noticeably?

cheers!

I did dry hop twice.... but both went right into the primary. I did not move the last batch or two to a dry hopping keg for second dry hop.

I would say it turned out just as well for sure. I cannot say there was any noticeable difference.

My only hesitation for some people in doing all the dry hopping in the primary is making sure your process still allows you to transfer beer to the keg without getting all kinds of hop debris, trub, etc..... I have minimal trub into fermenter to start with and the conical type bottom in my Brew Buckets lets most stuff settle out pretty well, so I don't have a big problem getting unwanted stuff into my keg.

 

[olotti]

The entire fleet is full..... unfortunately no IPA's in there.... beers for NHC - Blonde, Scottish 70, Dark Mild, Ordinary Bitter. Got the guard dogs on patrol.

It is not all doom and gloom though... I do have 2 kegs of NE IPA on hand. This beer is the recipe from post 1418, except used 1:1:1 Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy. Conan yeast. 120:120 on the water. Also - did all dry hopping in primary - no dry hop keg on this one.

Man those fermenters are awesome. Since their conicals do u drain off the trub and hop debris before transferring? Also let us know how you do in the competition.

 

[Braufessor]

Man those fermenters are awesome. Since their conicals do u drain off the trub and hop debris before transferring? Also let us know how you do in the competition.

No.... the spigot basically sits above most of the cone. So, there is kind of a half gallon or so of "dead space" under the spigot. Everything just kind of settles down in that cone and I can drain beer off from above the gunk that settles out.

To be honest - before I bought those I used bottling buckets for several years. Basically the same principal. Spiedel fermenters would be good too - a lot of people use those and they are cheaper as they are plastic.

Also saw these a while back - they are still a bit pricey, but they are cheaper than the SS Brew Buckets I have.
https://www.chapmanequipment.com/collections/fermenters

I do love the SS Brew Buckets though. One of the best purchases I have ever made in regard to brewing.

 

[olotti]

No.... the spigot basically sits above most of the cone. So, there is kind of a half gallon or so of "dead space" under the spigot. Everything just kind of settles down in that cone and I can drain beer off from above the gunk that settles out.

To be honest - before I bought those I used bottling buckets for several years. Basically the same principal. Spiedel fermenters would be good too - a lot of people use those and they are cheaper as they are plastic.

Also saw these a while back - they are still a bit pricey, but they are cheaper than the SS Brew Buckets I have.
https://www.chapmanequipment.com/collections/fermenters

I do love the SS Brew Buckets though. One of the best purchases I have ever made in regard to brewing.

Ok cool. I use mainly my three glass carboys, but I've thought about one of those plastic conicals but I'm just not sure where the benefit would be to buy one since I love the glass as I'm anal and I love to see what's happening during fermentation and I have my racking procedure down now to where I pretty much get zero debris when I rack to my bottling bucket. If there is yeast in the bottle which there usually is that's because I had to really minimize my cold crash times due to as you know the oxidation issues I was having but atleast that settles out with fridge time.

 

[Jmash]

It is not all doom and gloom though... I do have 2 kegs of NE IPA on hand. This beer is the recipe from post 1418, except used 1:1:1 Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy. Conan yeast. 120:120 on the water. Also - did all dry hopping in primary - no dry hop keg on this one.

How does the flavor compare to the original recipe? I love the original but wouldn't mind a little more pineappley flavor

 

[PissyFingers]

I did dry hop twice.... but both went right into the primary. I did not move the last batch or two to a dry hopping keg for second dry hop.

I would say it turned out just as well for sure. I cannot say there was any noticeable difference.

My only hesitation for some people in doing all the dry hopping in the primary is making sure your process still allows you to transfer beer to the keg without getting all kinds of hop debris, trub, etc..... I have minimal trub into fermenter to start with and the conical type bottom in my Brew Buckets lets most stuff settle out pretty well, so I don't have a big problem getting unwanted stuff into my keg.

Good to know, thanks! Yeah i have the same buckets as you but i swapped out
the lids on both of mine for the domed versions so i can get a bit more headspace for fermenting a full 23Litres and not worry about blow off issues with aggressive yeasts. My STC 1000 prob sits in the thermowell which makes
temp control pretty accurate.

Im doing a Brooklyn/Galaxy/Mosaic version as we speak, i thinks ill drop all the hops in the primary, cheers for the response.

 

[lilbova3]

So I did as Braufessor suggested and made a blonde ale (centennial blonde) with the first generation of giga yeasts Vermont ipa. I just tasted my first glass and I'm getting a lot of esters. Is that normal? I know it's supposed to be of English origin but it's not something Ive noticed in the tree house or hill farmstead beers I've tried.

I fermented at 68 for 14 days. For my NE ipa, I started at 64 and planned to ramp up 1 or 2 degrees a day but after tasting my blonde, I don't think I'll go any higher than 65.

I've tried using wlp002 in a pale ale and the mix of hops and esters did not suit my tastes. I know a lot of people like that, though.

What kind of esters? Banana and bumble gum maybe?

Another brewing friend of mine has found Conan to throw those esters if not dry hopped enough.

 

[murphyslaw]

Not banana or bubblegum.* I didn't put my finger on what fruit flavor I was getting but it was that distinct English ale character that I get from wlp002 and commercial ESBs and such.*

But if that is less noticeable with dry hops that will be fine. The blonde is just a means to an end-2nd generation Conan for the NE ipa. Thanks!

 

[HObrew]

Here's mine coming along. OG 1.052 just tested it at 1.010

Today is day 10. I will be closed transferring into a dry hopping keg tomorrow. And then force carbonating probably Friday night instead of Saturday day 14.

I'm trying to get this drinkable by Sunday (Lunar New year).

So far it tastes great despite that it is warm and has only one dry hop addition. May be a slight bit more bitter than the original recipe since I used 1oz warrior as opposed to .75oz


This is my first all grain batch and OG was a little lower than expected.

6lb 2row
6lb stone path (Maris otter equivalent)
1/4 lb honey malt
.3 lb wheat
.5lb barley
.75lb oats

Mash came out to ph 5 and 151 degrees. I added some boiling water (don't know if this is a no no) and at 25 minutes finally got it to 154

May have sparged a little too quickly.
Post boil volume was 5.5 gallons

Hops bittering 1oz warrior
Then same hop schedule but substitute even parts citra, mosaic, amarillo.

I can't wait to drink this! It tastes great so far!

 

[murphyslaw]

Here's mine coming along. OG 1.052 just tested it at 1.010

Today is day 10. I will be closed transferring into a dry hopping keg tomorrow. And then force carbonating probably Friday night instead of Saturday day 14.

I'm trying to get this drinkable by Sunday (Lunar New year).

So far it tastes great despite that it is warm and has only one dry hop addition. May be a slight bit more bitter than the original recipe since I used 1oz warrior as opposed to .75oz


This is my first all grain batch and OG was a little lower than expected.

6lb 2row
6lb stone path (Maris otter equivalent)
1/4 lb honey malt
.3 lb wheat
.5lb barley
.75lb oats

Mash came out to ph 5 and 151 degrees. I added some boiling water (don't know if this is a no no) and at 25 minutes finally got it to 154

May have sparged a little too quickly.
Post boil volume was 5.5 gallons

Hops bittering 1oz warrior
Then same hop schedule but substitute even parts citra, mosaic, amarillo.

I can't wait to drink this! It tastes great so far!

Nice!

I don't think there's anything wrong with adding boiling water to increase your mash temp, but next time you might want to do it sooner if you can. 25 minutes in you've already got a lot of the conversion done. Of course, you probably didn't plan on undershooting and didn't have boiling water on hand. I think 151 would be fine anyway, though, so don't sweat it.

 

[LateraLex]

I did dry hop twice.... but both went right into the primary. I did not move the last batch or two to a dry hopping keg for second dry hop.

I would say it turned out just as well for sure. I cannot say there was any noticeable difference.

Have you ever tried dumping all the hops in a single charge? I can't exactly wrap my mind around why the two separate charges works better, but I do it like everyone else.

 

[HObrew]

Have you ever tried dumping all the hops in a single charge? I can't exactly wrap my mind around why the two separate charges works better, but I do it like everyone else.

Hey! You live nearby.

I think I heard that end of active fermentation hop additions cause cloudiness and attatch to yeast cells. Maybe they get kicked around with the yeast. Don't know if it's possible to overdo it in one shot during that stage.

I'm only 4 batches and 2 ipas in so I can't really give a scientific or even 100% correct answer.

 

[murphyslaw]

Have you ever tried dumping all the hops in a single charge? I can't exactly wrap my mind around why the two separate charges works better, but I do it like everyone else.

Lots of recipes call for double hopping, including Pliny. My understanding is that the difference comes from the contact time with the beer. A 10 day dry hop can taste different than a 4 day dry hop, so you can layer those flavors/aromas.

But in this case, doing the first round of hops at the end of fermentation is also supposed to result in particular interactions between the hops and the active yeast that effect flavor and other things.

 

[stickyfinger]

Have you ever tried dumping all the hops in a single charge? I can't exactly wrap my mind around why the two separate charges works better, but I do it like everyone else.

I always just add them all in at one time to primary. it is easy and works well.