New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Be cool to see how yours turns out. Definitely not a bad yeast. Produces a nice clean beer. Just felt like it was missing something that I like in this style of beer.

Will let you know soon enough. Every once in a while I like to try a different yeast and run it through all my base beers..... I got a pack of 1272 a couple weeks ago and brewed my Blonde. Harvested yeast from it and have brewed my IPA, Amber and Brown Ale with it - all getting kegged in the next week. Going to brew another IPA and a Porter with it as well this week. Eager to see how they all turn out.
 
This is a great example of the contribution of yeast to haze..... it does not need to contribute at all. 007 drops like a rock and produces crystal clear beer easily. I think this is a good example that the "haze" is not reliant on yeast as much as it depends on dry hopping and pH.

Have to disagree with you here. Yeast certainly plays a role to some degree…we know Conan and 1318 are low flocculators, but the primary drivers I think are high levels of protein from wheat and/or other flaked grains in combination with heavy whirlpooling/dry hopping.

Chemically, I don’t understand your comments about pH. We are talking about differences ultimately in the 0.2 – 0.4 pH unit range near a target of pH 4.5. That will not be enough to move the needle in terms of protonation/de-protonation of the suspended hop polyphenols (pKa values near 9-10), which in turn lead to the electrostatic interactions with all of those proteins, and ultimately suspension in solution causing haze. I agree; however, that final beer pH will affect flavor perception…just not appearance.
 
Have to disagree with you here. Yeast certainly plays a role to some degree…we know Conan and 1318 are low flocculators, but the primary drivers I think are high levels of protein from wheat and/or other flaked grains in combination with heavy whirlpooling/dry hopping.

Chemically, I don’t understand your comments about pH. We are talking about differences ultimately in the 0.2 – 0.4 pH unit range near a target of pH 4.5. That will not be enough to move the needle in terms of protonation/de-protonation of the suspended hop polyphenols (pKa values near 9-10), which in turn lead to the electrostatic interactions with all of those proteins, and ultimately suspension in solution causing haze. I agree; however, that final beer pH will affect flavor perception…just not appearance.

I don't know. I use Conan 40-50 times a year. It drops clear as a glass in my blonde ale.... It is clear coming out of the fermenter with no cold crash and no fining. After a week kegged/in the fridge it is brilliantly clear. Yeasts like 1056, 007, 1272..... they all produce very clear beers..... but, when taken through a beer like this, the beer is quite hazy - but not "murky" with lots of yeast in suspension.

I don't think you need lots of yeast in suspension to make these beers and make them well. To be honest, the "yeastier" the beers are, the less I tend to like them. Some of the commercial examples I see that are murky/yeasty/milky..... I just don't think that is what the well brewed versions of this are all about. I sense people sometimes get caught up in chasing a yeast like 1318 because "you need it to make the beer hazy/cloudy." I think seeing a hazy beer that used 007 is a perfect example of that not being the case...... "Haze" comes from things beyond just having lots of yeast left in your beer. "Murky" generally comes from yeast. Often, when beers like this fail, it is because they end up overly "yeasty" as opposed to simply being hazy.

I can't tell you the chemistry behind the pH..... but, I can tell you my personal experience says 1-2 tenths of a pH on finished beer pH does seem to make a difference. I think Brulosopher's recent experiment (even though he was testing something a bit different) shows a similar thing.... If you scroll down in the experiment, look at the two beers when he measured final pH..... 4.39 vs. 4.50. The 4.50 has significant haze in it. The 4.39 is clear. I notice the same type of thing in my beers as well.
http://brulosophy.com/2016/08/08/water-chemistry-pt-5-boil-ph-in-an-ipa-exbeeriment-results/

Not to say there is no yeast left in suspension at all with conan, or other yeast.... I just don't think it is the significant player it is made to be sometimes. I also wonder if that higher pH locks up protein/hop oil/polyphenol along with holding some yeast in suspension????
:mug:
 
Braufessor, have you ever tried Motueka in this recipe? I'm thinking of doing a single hop batch for ****s and giggles... what does the recipe in the original post come out to ABV wise?
 
Braufessor, have you ever tried Motueka in this recipe? I'm thinking of doing a single hop batch for ****s and giggles... what does the recipe in the original post come out to ABV wise?

I used Motueka in my last batch. Love it. Combined with Mosaic and El Dorado.
 
Braufessor, have you ever tried Motueka in this recipe? I'm thinking of doing a single hop batch for ****s and giggles... what does the recipe in the original post come out to ABV wise?

OP comes in around 1.050-1.053 kind of range.... but, that is with 84% mash efficiency, so need to adjust that your system. That comes in around 5.3% (ish) abv. I have been bumping it up to about 1.060 recently have have liked that. - coming in around 6% or a so.

I have not used Motueka.
 
OP comes in around 1.050-1.053 kind of range.... but, that is with 84% mash efficiency, so need to adjust that your system. That comes in around 5.3% (ish) abv. I have been bumping it up to about 1.060 recently have have liked that. - coming in around 6% or a so.

I have not used Motueka.

Hmm, I'll probably have to adjust the grain amounts then. Not entirely sure on my mash efficiency but I use BIAB and have only done a few batches so far so I doubt it's great. Thanks! All the local stores are out of Motueka it turns out, but I'll find something to brew it with.
 
I used Motueka in my last batch. Love it. Combined with Mosaic and El Dorado.

Damn, that sounds good. My first batch was a Centennial/El Dorado mix that's not half bad for my first brew. I was planning to make a single hop Motueka brew with this grain bill, but every homebrew store near me is out of Motueka so I'll have to reconsider.
 
Hmm, I'll probably have to adjust the grain amounts then. Not entirely sure on my mash efficiency but I use BIAB and have only done a few batches so far so I doubt it's great. Thanks! All the local stores are out of Motueka it turns out, but I'll find something to brew it with.

I would maybe assume 65-70% and keep 1 lb of extra light DME on hand to adjust gravity if you undershoot it.
 
Brewing up a Citra/Mosaic/Azacca version of this. Planned on using Conan/Vermont/1318 but my LHBS had a shipping snafu this week and was real thin on yeast supply. Had to pick up Mangrove Jack M07, anyone ever use for this?
 
I don't know. I use Conan 40-50 times a year. It drops clear as a glass in my blonde ale.... It is clear coming out of the fermenter with no cold crash and no fining. After a week kegged/in the fridge it is brilliantly clear. Yeasts like 1056, 007, 1272..... they all produce very clear beers..... but, when taken through a beer like this, the beer is quite hazy - but not "murky" with lots of yeast in suspension.

I don't think you need lots of yeast in suspension to make these beers and make them well. To be honest, the "yeastier" the beers are, the less I tend to like them. Some of the commercial examples I see that are murky/yeasty/milky..... I just don't think that is what the well brewed versions of this are all about. I sense people sometimes get caught up in chasing a yeast like 1318 because "you need it to make the beer hazy/cloudy." I think seeing a hazy beer that used 007 is a perfect example of that not being the case...... "Haze" comes from things beyond just having lots of yeast left in your beer. "Murky" generally comes from yeast. Often, when beers like this fail, it is because they end up overly "yeasty" as opposed to simply being hazy.

I can't tell you the chemistry behind the pH..... but, I can tell you my personal experience says 1-2 tenths of a pH on finished beer pH does seem to make a difference. I think Brulosopher's recent experiment (even though he was testing something a bit different) shows a similar thing.... If you scroll down in the experiment, look at the two beers when he measured final pH..... 4.39 vs. 4.50. The 4.50 has significant haze in it. The 4.39 is clear. I notice the same type of thing in my beers as well.
http://brulosophy.com/2016/08/08/water-chemistry-pt-5-boil-ph-in-an-ipa-exbeeriment-results/

Not to say there is no yeast left in suspension at all with conan, or other yeast.... I just don't think it is the significant player it is made to be sometimes. I also wonder if that higher pH locks up protein/hop oil/polyphenol along with holding some yeast in suspension????
:mug:

Here is another experiment where pH had an affect on clarity through it was not the point of the experiment

http://www.hoptomology.com/2013/07/15/the-effect-of-ph-on-hop-character-the-results/
 
I've had my mosaic/citra/equinox version in the keg for about 10 days now. I've been drinking some everyday, afraid of losing a lot of the hop aroma and punch. However, today the beer has definitely hit a new level. A creamsicle, milkshake quality is coming through that I'm really digging. This is the first time I've used equinox and was a little worried using so much, but so far so good.
 
I was just about to ask about Equinox I have half a pound in the freezer that I have been holding out on using because I'm worried about the green pepper flavor people say it gives. I've also heard that the hop can be very tropical. I guess I'll go ahead and give it a go. Thinking citra/Mosiac/ Equinox or citra/Galaxy/Equinox. Did you use equal hop amounts throughout?
 
So I was planning of brewing this again and noticed I might have brought the wrong stuff with my last batch. Question:

Should the type of white wheat I be using be malted or raw white wheat? Milled or no?
Also should I have milled the following: Flaked barley, Flaked Oats and the Flaked Wheat?
 
So I was planning of brewing this again and noticed I might have brought the wrong stuff with my last batch. Question:

Should the type of white wheat I be using be malted or raw white wheat? Milled or no?
Also should I have milled the following: Flaked barley, Flaked Oats and the Flaked Wheat?

Looks like malted white wheat milled, and you don't have to mill flaked barley, oats, wheat, etc
 
Thanks. I used malted white wheat on my last brew but milled all of the flaked grains. Will not do it next time. Thanks
 
I was just about to ask about Equinox I have half a pound in the freezer that I have been holding out on using because I'm worried about the green pepper flavor people say it gives. I've also heard that the hop can be very tropical. I guess I'll go ahead and give it a go. Thinking citra/Mosiac/ Equinox or citra/Galaxy/Equinox. Did you use equal hop amounts throughout?

I'm not getting a lot of green pepper at all. I did use equal additions of all three hops. Two whirlpool additions and two dry hops.
 
Think I'll go Citra/Galaxy/Equinox. I'll report back with the results. Maybe if I catch the green pepper before dry hopping I'll leave the Equinox out of the dry hop.
 
It could be something that only some people are sensitive to so some of us won't ever taste it. Happens all the time with brewing process off flavors that someone will have a "hole" in their palate.
 
I don't think you need lots of yeast in suspension to make these beers and make them well. To be honest, the "yeastier" the beers are, the less I tend to like them. Some of the commercial examples I see that are murky/yeasty/milky..... I just don't think that is what the well brewed versions of this are all about. I sense people sometimes get caught up in chasing a yeast like 1318 because "you need it to make the beer hazy/cloudy." I think seeing a hazy beer that used 007 is a perfect example of that not being the case...... "Haze" comes from things beyond just having lots of yeast left in your beer. "Murky" generally comes from yeast. Often, when beers like this fail, it is because they end up overly "yeasty" as opposed to simply being hazy.

I can't tell you the chemistry behind the pH..... but, I can tell you my personal experience says 1-2 tenths of a pH on finished beer pH does seem to make a difference. I think Brulosopher's recent experiment (even though he was testing something a bit different) shows a similar thing.... If you scroll down in the experiment, look at the two beers when he measured final pH..... 4.39 vs. 4.50. The 4.50 has significant haze in it. The 4.39 is clear. I notice the same type of thing in my beers as well.
http://brulosophy.com/2016/08/08/water-chemistry-pt-5-boil-ph-in-an-ipa-exbeeriment-results/

Not to say there is no yeast left in suspension at all with conan, or other yeast.... I just don't think it is the significant player it is made to be sometimes. I also wonder if that higher pH locks up protein/hop oil/polyphenol along with holding some yeast in suspension????
:mug:

I agree with almost everything you say here. As to the pH variable, I just have to believe that it is the classic correlation vs. causation effect. It just does not make much sense from a pure chemistry perspective that a difference of 0.1 pH units could alter the primary haze-forming compound formation (hop polyphenols-protein interactions) to a significant degree.
 
As to the pH variable, I just have to believe that it is the classic correlation vs. causation effect.

I agree.... I don't have anything other than my observations and some observations of others that makes me consider the role of pH. Certainly do not know a chemical pathway that would explain it. I do know that dry hopping, high levels of dry hopping can result in increase in pH. The higher pH could potentially just be a "symptom" of the process just as the haze is a symptom.

However, the one thing that does still make me wonder about whether pH is a "cause" or "effect" is ( on fewer occasions - because I have not purposely done it) - I have noticed that even in vastly different beers like blonde ales, british beers or even helles lagers...... I have noticed that if I am off on my pH high (5.4's vs. 5.30 in the kettle).... the beers come out hazier, and the breaks happen less/ddifferently, final beer has clarity issues. Not something I have purposely explored, but something I am curious about.
 
I saw this article a few weeks ago when I was reading about the effect of kettle pH on beer clarity. Limited science included, but interesting:

http://beerandwinejournal.com/proper-boil-ph/

I read in a presentation about brewing German beers that some of the breweries in German adjust mash pH and then adjust the pH in the kettle to encourage better hot break. I think the goal was to avoid using kettle fining.
 
I saw this article a few weeks ago when I was reading about the effect of kettle pH on beer clarity. Limited science included, but interesting:

http://beerandwinejournal.com/proper-boil-ph/

I read in a presentation about brewing German beers that some of the breweries in German adjust mash pH and then adjust the pH in the kettle to encourage better hot break. I think the goal was to avoid using kettle fining.

Thanks for posting that link.... I had been looking for that article, but had not been able to track it down.
 
Braufessor, I've recently made two batches of this using what you described as your favorite current hop combo: Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy for the two whirlpools and Citra/Mosaic for the two dry hops. It's amazing. For my next batch, I'd like to change it up a bit just for variety. Can you give a few of your other favorite combos these days? Thanks.
 
Braufessor, I've recently made two batches of this using what you described as your favorite current hop combo: Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy for the two whirlpools and Citra/Mosaic for the two dry hops. It's amazing. For my next batch, I'd like to change it up a bit just for variety. Can you give a few of your other favorite combos these days? Thanks.

Yeah - I just keep coming back to that one.

I am just about to put a batch into the fermenter right now:
1:1:1 ratio of Citra/Amarillo/Simcoe..... never tried it, but it has to be good:)

Others I have liked -
* 1.5:1.5 of Citra/Mosaic all 4 additions
* Single hop versions with Citra or Mosaic ( I assume others like galaxy, Amarillo, etc. would be good too.)
* 1:1:1 of Amarillo/Simcoe/Centennial in Boil additions and then Simcoe/Amarillo 1.5:1.5 in the Dry Hops
* Did a 2:1 Citra:Columbus version that was quite good.... should do that one again sometime now that I think about it.

I did a batch with Eureka/Citra/Columbus that was just over the top and too much - did not love that one.

I have had a commercial beer that was Citra/Eureka that I really liked.... Maybe 2:1 Citra:Eureka if I tried that again.

Those are probably the ones I have settled on most of the time..... The more of these I have brewed, the more I keep coming back to combinations of:
Citra, Mosaic, Galaxy, Centennial, Simcoe, Amarillo, Columbus

I generally always bitter with Warrior... Although Columbus sometimes if I am using it or Centennial if I am using it.
 
Latest batch from yesterday

Hop schedule
0.75 oz Columbus for bittering at 60min
1:1:1:0.5 oz Citra:Mosaic:Galaxy:Columbus at 180F and 165F (30 min whirlpools for each)

Planning to do 2:2:2 Citra:Mosaic:Galaxy on day 4 when I transfer to a keg to let it finish fermenting under pressure.

I also added 0.5# lactose and 0.5# maltodextrin to boost the mouthfeel and give it a little sweetness. Maybe that's too much. We'll see in about 10 days.

Normally I've used Warrior for bittering but both packs I opened had a bad odor so luckily I had a pack of Columbus as a backup. That's the 3rd time I've had a bad packet of Warrior from BSG. I don't think I'll be going back to them for Warrior.

20160814_172429.jpg
 
Yeah - I just keep coming back to that one.

I am just about to put a batch into the fermenter right now:
1:1:1 ratio of Citra/Amarillo/Simcoe..... never tried it, but it has to be good:)

Others I have liked -
* 1.5:1.5 of Citra/Mosaic all 4 additions
* Single hop versions with Citra or Mosaic ( I assume others like galaxy, Amarillo, etc. would be good too.)
* 1:1:1 of Amarillo/Simcoe/Centennial in Boil additions and then Simcoe/Amarillo 1.5:1.5 in the Dry Hops
* Did a 2:1 Citra:Columbus version that was quite good.... should do that one again sometime now that I think about it.

I did a batch with Eureka/Citra/Columbus that was just over the top and too much - did not love that one.

I have had a commercial beer that was Citra/Eureka that I really liked.... Maybe 2:1 Citra:Eureka if I tried that again.

Those are probably the ones I have settled on most of the time..... The more of these I have brewed, the more I keep coming back to combinations of:
Citra, Mosaic, Galaxy, Centennial, Simcoe, Amarillo, Columbus

I generally always bitter with Warrior... Although Columbus sometimes if I am using it or Centennial if I am using it.

This is great, thanks. I also bitter with Warrior.

Think I might try the Amarillo/Centennial/Simcoe version next (with just Amarillo/Simcoe DH) just to give the Citra a break. Thanks again!
 
Hmmmmm.... I would do one of two things.

* Simply go with an ounce of each, in all 4 additions.

* You could go heavier on Galaxy in kettle, and lighter on dry hop.....
2 Kettle additions:
1.5 galaxy
.75 citra
.75 Mosaic

2 Dry Hop additions:
1.25 Citra
1.25 Mosaic
.5 galaxy
 
Hmmmmm.... I would do one of two things.

* Simply go with an ounce of each, in all 4 additions.

* You could go heavier on Galaxy in kettle, and lighter on dry hop.....
2 Kettle additions:
1.5 galaxy
.75 citra
.75 Mosaic

2 Dry Hop additions:
1.25 Citra
1.25 Mosaic
.5 galaxy


Which would you recommend? I also have 4oz ea centennial and Azacca but I would prefer to go with C,M,G
 
Which would you recommend? I also have 4oz ea centennial and Azacca but I would prefer to go with C,M,G

I think I would go with more galaxy in the kettle and less in the dry hop (the second option). Galaxy can get a bit strong in the dry hop I think. I have done the 1:1:1 ratio in all four additions and it tasted like straight up grapefruit juice.... which was quite good. But, I still prefer less galaxy presence in the dry hop.

I would bitter with something neutral if you have it (warrior, magnum.... or something like that.) If you don't have one of those, I would bitter with some Centennial. But, save the C-M-G for the late additions.
 
I think I would go with more galaxy in the kettle and less in the dry hop (the second option). Galaxy can get a bit strong in the dry hop I think. I have done the 1:1:1 ratio in all four additions and it tasted like straight up grapefruit juice.... which was quite good. But, I still prefer less galaxy presence in the dry hop.



I would bitter with something neutral if you have it (warrior, magnum.... or something like that.) If you don't have one of those, I would bitter with some Centennial. But, save the C-M-G for the late additions.


Awesome! Thanks.
I'll go with the second recommendation and report back when I have some results. I also have some hybridized Conan/644 I'll be using in this one. Gonna be a fun beer!!
 
Thinking about brewing #3 using the original grain bill but using Simcoe/Citra/Amarillo/Equinox. I may go with Warrior for bittering.
Would you guys use equal amounts for all additions?
 
Thinking about brewing #3 using the original grain bill but using Simcoe/Citra/Amarillo/Equinox. I may go with Warrior for bittering.
Would you guys use equal amounts for all additions?

I don't have any experience with equinox, so I can't help much with that. I did just brew Citra/Simcoe/Amarillo yesterday though.... and I intend to go equal amounts throughout.

In general, if I feel hops have the ability to overpower the beer, I scale them back - especially in the dry hop. So..... hops like Columbus, Galaxy, Eureka are ones I have use in particular that can get away from you in a hurry and just dominate everything else. Centennial is another one that I have found that (surprisingly) can over power a dry hop.

In fairness, Citra can outdo the other hops as well..... but, I love Citra, so I don't mind:)

So, I guess it depends on where you (or others) think Equinox fits as far as its ability to over power other hops, or blend in, or.... does it get lost?
 
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