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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Did my first batch of a modified version of this recipe a few weeks ago - reminds me a lot of Tree House Green, just more sessionable.

Edit: Not sure why the photo is rotated in HBT. It is correctly oriented on my computer. Hmm...

IMG_7912.jpg
 
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Did my first batch of a modified version of this recipe a few weeks ago - reminds me a lot of Tree House Green, just more sessionable.

Edit: Not sure why the photo is rotated in HBT. It is correctly oriented on my computer. Hmm...

I know my iPad does this to photos...If I take a pic with the iPad and hold it vertically...it shows up fine everywhere else - just not here. If I take the photo with the iPad horizontally then it is fine (here and other places too).
 
You could try rotating it clockwise with a photo editing program before uploading.

That's the problem...it shows up in the correct orientation on my Mac but as soon as I upload to HBT, it rotates it.

Edit: rotated it CW 90 degrees to fix it. Damn this beer is delicious AND beautiful. Thanks for sharing @Braufessor!

IMG_7912.jpg
 
Somehow I just noticed that the original recipe for this calls for two separate dry hops. Just wondering how critical that is to achieving the hazy juicyness. I don't quite have enough hops on hand for two dry hops, but if it is critical, I will go get some more.

I should add that in my recipe, I did use a bit more late boil hops. I added .75 oz Centennial at 15 and 10 minutes.
 
Somehow I just noticed that the original recipe for this calls for two separate dry hops. Just wondering how critical that is to achieving the hazy juicyness. I don't quite have enough hops on hand for two dry hops, but if it is critical, I will go get some more.

I should add that in my recipe, I did use a bit more late boil hops. I added .75 oz Centennial at 15 and 10 minutes.

I think others have done a single dry hop with good results. You could also move those 15/10 minute hops a bit later.... just throwing them in at 5 minutes, and then taking some of the hop-stand hops and add them to that single dry hop.
 
Does this count? Not really an IPA, but reminds me of about everything I drank at Maine Beer Co (in looks and taste).

3baf768f-54f5-4052-8d82-d214c403ac3e_zpseneigzgu.jpg
 
Braufessor,
I'm currently brewing my second batch of this amazing beer, and have a question about the flame-out hops. After flame-out, about how long does it take you to get down to the 160 degree temp? I ask because it doesn't take me long to get to 160 degrees if I use my counterflow chiller to get there. I use well water to chill and its sitting around 52 degrees out of the ground. In fact I brewed a lager a couple of weeks ago and chilled the kettle down below 60 degrees and the kettle was actually sweating it was so cold. If I just wait to come down to 160 without the chiller, it would take at least 20 minutes or more I'm guessing. If I had a ballpark time i would just let it sit there until the allotted time then chill to 160.I'm thinking 15 minutes or so. What do you think?

Pics are the 1st batch I made along with the label I put on my tap handle.

Thanks in Advance

Insidious Beer Pic.jpg


Insidious IPA.jpg
 
I think others have done a single dry hop with good results. You could also move those 15/10 minute hops a bit later.... just throwing them in at 5 minutes, and then taking some of the hop-stand hops and add them to that single dry hop.

Thanks Brau! This batch is already 5 days in, so can't change the boil. But I'll be brewing this multiple times this year to try and dial in what I'm going for. After tasting I'll consider moving the 10/15 additions. I also didn't do a 60 like you did. First addition was just 1/2 ounce of CTZ at 30. This batch size was 6 gallons into the fermenter.
 
I am at day 5 and still seeing pretty significant air lock activity. Should do my first dry hop anyway or wait until the air lock activity dies down? I used Conan this time around and had to use a blow off early on. The beer has changed color and started to clear a little as well.
 
Hey guys tried searching for answer to this question but couldn't find it.

For this recipe/style and for those that are bottling, are you guys racking from a primary carboy to secondary carboy? If so, how long in the primary? Are you adding the first hop additions in the primary or secondary? Thanks everybody for your wealth of knowledge
 
Hey guys tried searching for answer to this question but couldn't find it.

For this recipe/style and for those that are bottling, are you guys racking from a primary carboy to secondary carboy? If so, how long in the primary? Are you adding the first hop additions in the primary or secondary? Thanks everybody for your wealth of knowledge

I never rack to secondary unless I'm racking onto something (wood, fruit) or the beer will be fermenting for more than 4-5 weeks. I bottle and will go from primary to bottling bucket on bottling day. On a relatively low gravity beer like this one, I will primary for 11-15 days, then bottle. This is what works for me.
 
@Brau brewed up a batch of your Blonde to harvest the Conan yeast for a 2nd attempt at the NE IPA.
Cracked open a bottle today. It's right at 18 days old, bottled on 7/24. It could use another couple days of bottle conditioning to get the carbonation right but it was good. My wife even liked it.
With that said, next time I may brew using El Dorado as I brewed a SMaSH using it and my wife liked that too. Need to try and keep her happy to get her off my case LOL.
Thanks BRau.
 
Hey guys tried searching for answer to this question but couldn't find it.

For this recipe/style and for those that are bottling, are you guys racking from a primary carboy to secondary carboy? If so, how long in the primary? Are you adding the first hop additions in the primary or secondary? Thanks everybody for your wealth of knowledge

I bottle and brewed my first batch a couple months ago. I never rack to secondary, although I did do it for this brew so I could harvest the yeast. All dry hops were done in the secondary. There will be a lot of hop debris so if you plan on harvesting the yeast I suggest you rack to secondary.
I went 10-12 days before racking to secondary. The first generation Conan was sluggish even after being on a stir plate for 18 hrs.
 
I bottle and brewed my first batch a couple months ago. I never rack to secondary, although I did do it for this brew so I could harvest the yeast. All dry hops were done in the secondary. There will be a lot of hop debris so if you plan on harvesting the yeast I suggest you rack to secondary.
I went 10-12 days before racking to secondary. The first generation Conan was sluggish even after being on a stir plate for 18 hrs.

Try harvesting yeast off the starter.,Much cleaner as there's no hops debris or trub. I'm on my 4th gen of Conan and it takes off in 4-8 hrs consistently depending on og. Oxygenate it well as u should every beer and it'll take off fast and finish within a couple days but I've also found raising temp up to 70-72 once primary fermentarion is done really helps this yeast clean up and hit its optimum fg.
 
Try harvesting yeast off the starter.,Much cleaner as there's no hops debris or trub. I'm on my 4th gen of Conan and it takes off in 4-8 hrs consistently depending on og. Oxygenate it well as u should every beer and it'll take off fast and finish within a couple days but I've also found raising temp up to 70-72 once primary fermentarion is done really helps this yeast clean up and hit its optimum fg.
I do harvest from the starter- part of what I harvested went into the blonde ale and then harvested that which will be used for future NE IPA brews. Actually I believe this is how Braufessor does it according to his post.
 
I do harvest from the starter- part of what I harvested went into the blonde ale and then harvested that which will be used for future NE IPA brews. Actually I believe this is how Braufessor does it according to his post.

Yes - this is what I do. I like having something like a blonde ale on tap all the time for folks who are not into IPA's etc. I also brew a lot, so I am going through harvested yeast pretty easily. So, taking the time to brew a blonde and harvest quite a bit of yeast is a good strategy for what I do.

For anyone who brews less frequently (say..... once every 2-3-4 weeks)....and when they do brew, they don't want to be messing around with brewing blonde ales - over-making starters and saving some for next time is a pretty good way to go as well.
 
Braufessor,
I'm currently brewing my second batch of this amazing beer, and have a question about the flame-out hops. After flame-out, about how long does it take you to get down to the 160 degree temp? I ask because it doesn't take me long to get to 160 degrees if I use my counterflow chiller to get there. I use well water to chill and its sitting around 52 degrees out of the ground. In fact I brewed a lager a couple of weeks ago and chilled the kettle down below 60 degrees and the kettle was actually sweating it was so cold. If I just wait to come down to 160 without the chiller, it would take at least 20 minutes or more I'm guessing. If I had a ballpark time i would just let it sit there until the allotted time then chill to 160.I'm thinking 15 minutes or so. What do you think?

Pics are the 1st batch I made along with the label I put on my tap handle.

Thanks in Advance

Are you *sure* it wasn't 79.86 IBU's???
 
Just out of curiosity, how often do you brew? I brew about every other week, and sometimes I feel like that is a lot.

I brew a lot in the summer and winter. Less in the spring and fall because I coach track and cross country.

60 (ish) batches a year though probably....
 
Does anyone else find 1318 to be very oxygen hungry?

I use 1318 a lot in these beers, what do you mean by oxygen hungry. Its a crazy yeast but I love the fruit and tart it brings to these beers coupled with the fruity hops. It can be a little finicky and by that I've found if you don't raise the temp up after primary fermentation it can possibly stall but I've never had that prob and I've also had batches attenuate better than the Conan I use.
 
If by "oxygen hungry" you mean one of the gnarliest looking top cropping yeasts I have ever seen....
Then yes.


I use 1318 a lot in these beers, what do you mean by oxygen hungry. Its a crazy yeast but I love the fruit and tart it brings to these beers coupled with the fruity hops. It can be a little finicky and by that I've found if you don't raise the temp up after primary fermentation it can possibly stall but I've never had that prob and I've also had batches attenuate better than the Conan I use.

No, I mean that maybe it demands more dissolved oxygen than a similar ale yeast. Pure speculation, and maybe it has more to do with a temperature rise. I've had it refuse to drop the last 8 points or so for like 3 days, then magically it was done, and it was kept at a steady 72F, but I don't think I shook the carboy as much as I normally do with 1318.
 
No, I mean that maybe it demands more dissolved oxygen than a similar ale yeast. Pure speculation, and maybe it has more to do with a temperature rise. I've had it refuse to drop the last 8 points or so for like 3 days, then magically it was done, and it was kept at a steady 72F, but I don't think I shook the carboy as much as I normally do with 1318.

You don't have to shake it just raise the temp with 1318 and it'll hit its fg but there will still be a monster yeast cake on top, first time I used it I had to sanitize a mash paddle the plastic one that comes with most kits and use the handle to break open a hole so I could let the dry hops get in and after those went in a couple days later the whole cake dropped on its own.
 
You don't have to shake it just raise the temp with 1318 and it'll hit its fg but there will still be a monster yeast cake on top, first time I used it I had to sanitize a mash paddle the plastic one that comes with most kits and use the handle to break open a hole so I could let the dry hops get in and after those went in a couple days later the whole cake dropped on its own.

Yeah I've top cropped it before out of my speidel but I just dry hop in the keg. I usually raise it but I had my heatwrap around a saison instead.
 
I never rack to secondary unless I'm racking onto something (wood, fruit) or the beer will be fermenting for more than 4-5 weeks. I bottle and will go from primary to bottling bucket on bottling day. On a relatively low gravity beer like this one, I will primary for 11-15 days, then bottle. This is what works for me.

Hey thanks for the info! Ill skip secondary. One more question then. Should I bother cold crashing? I am using a 6.5 gal Big Mouth plastic carboy with a spout at the bottom. I am thinking I might be able to use that spout to tube directly into bottling bucket without having to use a siphon.
 
I just got mine carbonated in the keg and it is great. Weird thing was when I first did a force carb at 30 psi for 36 hours then 12 psi for a few hours. My first pours Saturday and Sunday were not good. It had a weird aftertaste almost grass like. Today (Monday) it had a completely different taste it was amazing.
 
has anyone tried WY1450, Denny's Favorite 50 yet in this or another NE IPA? i used it in the Tired Hands Hophands recipe Ed Coffey has on his site. just pitched yesterday. i used WY1450 in an american strong ale and loved the mouthfeel and cloudiness, so thought i'd try it!
 

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