New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[brew703]

I do BIAB and used Conan on the first and 2nd batch- the 2nd batch is 3 days in bottle conditioning. Wish I had the set up for kegging. I'm thinking about a Blichmann beer gun or something similar but I would need to get a keg and a co2 tank. Don't want the extra expense now so guess I will continue to bottle the old fashioned way.

My first batch was good, not great. Followed the OP recipe to a T. Second batch same but changed the hops some. Columbus to bitter and Amarillo/Chinook/Simcoe with Amarillo and Simcoe for DH.

I just received some 1318. Will make up a starter to brew Braufessor's blonde ale so I can harvest some yeast. Anxious to try this with 1318 as never used it before.

 

[BongoYodeler]

I do BIAB and used Conan on the first and 2nd batch- the 2nd batch is 3 days in bottle conditioning. Wish I had the set up for kegging. I'm thinking about a Blichmann beer gun or something similar but I would need to get a keg and a co2 tank. Don't want the extra expense now so guess I will continue to bottle the old fashioned way.

My first batch was good, not great. Followed the OP recipe to a T. Second batch same but changed the hops some. Columbus to bitter and Amarillo/Chinook/Simcoe with Amarillo and Simcoe for DH.

I just received some 1318. Will make up a starter to brew Braufessor's blonde ale so I can harvest some yeast. Anxious to try this with 1318 as never used it before.

brew703, please post updates. I would also like to follow Braufessor recipe and, like you, I will be doing it as BIAB, and bottling it. I'm anxious to see how yours turns out.

 

[brew703]

brew703, please post updates. I would also like to follow Braufessor recipe and, like you, I will be doing it as BIAB, and bottling it. I'm anxious to see how yours turns out.

I'm at least a week and a half before I crack open a bottle. Once I do, I'll post an update.

Next batch will be with 1318 so I can see which one I prefer.

I will say its a very good beer. My color was not as bright as some of the posts I've seen. Plan on a lot of trub and hop debris. The last batch I only was able to get 21 bottles. Normally I get 27 or so out of a 3 gallon batch.

 

[Schemy]

Braufessor,

This has probably been asked somewhere in all this awesomeness. But have you used Rye Malt or Flaked Rye in any recipes? Thoughts on the use of Rye in this style.

 

[Braufessor]

Braufessor,

This has probably been asked somewhere in all this awesomeness. But have you used Rye Malt or Flaked Rye in any recipes? Thoughts on the use of Rye in this style.

I have not..... not a huge fan of rye personally. However, for anyone who likes "Rye P.A.'s." absolutely - don't see why you could not do it. Could do either rye malt, flaked rye or a combo. I can't say what would be best, as I don't brew with it for the most part.

Not sure how the "spicy" rye would go with the "tropical" hops... so that might be a consideration in regard to hop selection too??

 

[brewkinger]

I just received some 1318. Will make up a starter to brew Braufessor's blonde ale so I can harvest some yeast. Anxious to try this with 1318 as never used it before.

In case you don't WANT to make the blonde to harvest the yeast, just build a multi step starter with the original generation and store half and pitch the other half.

That's what I do each time.

 

[cegan09]

In case you don't WANT to make the blonde to harvest the yeast, just build a multi step starter with the original generation and store half and pitch the other half.

That's what I do each time.

on the flip side, that Blonde is delicious. But yes, I've used that technique lately when I was running out of yeast and couldn't fit another brew in.

 

[lilbova3]

I do BIAB and used Conan on the first and 2nd batch- the 2nd batch is 3 days in bottle conditioning. Wish I had the set up for kegging. I'm thinking about a Blichmann beer gun or something similar but I would need to get a keg and a co2 tank. Don't want the extra expense now so guess I will continue to bottle the old fashioned way.

My first batch was good, not great. Followed the OP recipe to a T. Second batch same but changed the hops some. Columbus to bitter and Amarillo/Chinook/Simcoe with Amarillo and Simcoe for DH.

I just received some 1318. Will make up a starter to brew Braufessor's blonde ale so I can harvest some yeast. Anxious to try this with 1318 as never used it before.

brew703, please post updates. I would also like to follow Braufessor recipe and, like you, I will be doing it as BIAB, and bottling it. I'm anxious to see how yours turns out.

Before I got my kegging system I bottled these and they did fall off quicker than I had hoped. I would recommend not using a bottling wand. Just hook up some tubing to your spigot and put that straight into the bottle. It will be hard to control flow and when to shut off the spigot but you'll get good with it after a few goes.

 

[rtracer]

Question regarding the flaked Additions... So you mash them as is or do you crush?

 

[govner1]

Mash them as is no need or benefit in milling

 

[brewkinger]

Mash them as is no need or benefit in milling

Yup and I would add that on 2 occasions I forgot and milled them and I swear that it made the mash even stickier.

 

[Braufessor]

Mash them as is no need or benefit in milling

No need to mill them..... but, I almost always do. A handful of times I set them aside, and then realized half way through the mash I had forgot to add them. So, I just got in the habit of throwing them into the rest of the grain and running them through the mill with everything else.

 

[Projectfdw]

Latest iteration. Overall pretty solid. Bitterness died off after carbing up. But for some reason there is a ton of hop crud at the bottom of each pour. Keg hopped for 10 days at 34 degrees with 3oz of leaf hood. Hopefully it's almost cleared up. UView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1475112020.530222.jpg

 

[E_Rock]

Have any of you had you NE hazy beers clear up on you? I brewed a NE Pale Ale in August. It was an amazingly tasty beer. Oddly enough, after 4 weeks on tap, it had cleared up perfectly. I mean crystal clear. I was surprised with 20% of the bill comprised of oats and wheat.


Grain Bill
7.5 lb 2 row
1 lb Flaked Oats
1 lb Red Wheat
.5 lb Dark Munich

Hops
1oz Citra - 8min
1oz Amarillo - 8min
1oz Citra - 4min
1oz Amarillo - 4min
1oz Citra - Keg Hop
1oz Amarillo - Keg Hop

Yeast
US-05

 

[jjw5015]

Have any of you had you NE hazy beers clear up on you? I brewed a NE Pale Ale in August. It was an amazingly tasty beer. Oddly enough, after 4 weeks on tap, it had cleared up perfectly. I mean crystal clear. I was surprised with 20% of the bill comprised of oats and wheat.


Grain Bill
7.5 lb 2 row
1 lb Flaked Oats
1 lb Red Wheat
.5 lb Dark Munich

Hops
1oz Citra - 8min
1oz Amarillo - 8min
1oz Citra - 4min
1oz Amarillo - 4min
1oz Citra - Keg Hop
1oz Amarillo - Keg Hop

Yeast
US-05

Clear up? Yes. Crystal clear? Not even close

 

[Braufessor]

Have any of you had you NE hazy beers clear up on you? I brewed a NE Pale Ale in August. It was an amazingly tasty beer. Oddly enough, after 4 weeks on tap, it had cleared up perfectly. I mean crystal clear. I was surprised with 20% of the bill comprised of oats and wheat.


Grain Bill
7.5 lb 2 row
1 lb Flaked Oats
1 lb Red Wheat
.5 lb Dark Munich

Hops
1oz Citra - 8min
1oz Amarillo - 8min
1oz Citra - 4min
1oz Amarillo - 4min
1oz Citra - Keg Hop
1oz Amarillo - Keg Hop

Yeast
US-05

I see a key mistake you made...... your keg lasted 4 weeks

But, seriously - they will definitely drop clear over time. That is usually how I know for sure I have a few pints left..... starts to drop clear. 3 weeks mine are starting to clear usually. Toward the end of a keg, mine will be crystal clear or close to it.

 

[E_Rock]

I see a key mistake you made...... your keg lasted 4 weeks

I knew I was doing something wrong!

 

[jammin]

I see a key mistake you made...... your keg lasted 4 weeks

But, seriously - they will definitely drop clear over time. That is usually how I know for sure I have a few pints left..... starts to drop clear. 3 weeks mine are starting to clear usually. Toward the end of a keg, mine will be crystal clear or close to it.

Us-05 drops like a rock. Surprised it even took that long

 

[BongoYodeler]

Before I got my kegging system I bottled these and they did fall off quicker than I had hoped. I would recommend not using a bottling wand. Just hook up some tubing to your spigot and put that straight into the bottle. It will be hard to control flow and when to shut off the spigot but you'll get good with it after a few goes.

Interesting. I hook my bottling wand to my spigot with just a two or three inch piece of tubing between the two. But you're suggesting not using the bottling wand at all. Why is that? Does it introduce additional oxygen?

As an aside about two and a half weeks ago I bottled an extract IPA where I used six different types of hops, 11 oz. in total, and Wyeast 1318. Looks like the beer pictured in post #1573. I've opened and drank a couple so far, and upon opening they smell like an amazing combination of grapefruit and mango. The first sip is really good, but he flavor quickly falls off about half way through the glass. I'm just left with just a very slight tropical flavor and some underlying bitterness. Being new to brewing I'm not sure if that's due to my "frankenstein" recipe, my process, (I have to do partial boil - 4 gallon kettle), or something else entirely.

 

[brew703]

I was curious about the bottling wand as well. Don't see how that could introduce oxygen. Once I brew #3 and if it fades quick or some other issue associated with the transfer then I may stop brewing this type until I can get my keg system set up.
It takes me a month to go through a case since I'm the only one drinking it.
I even looked at getting a beer gun but to get that set up would cost almost as much as getting a keg system.

 

[lilbova3]

Interesting. I hook my bottling wand to my spigot with just a two or three inch piece of tubing between the two. But you're suggesting not using the bottling wand at all. Why is that? Does it introduce additional oxygen?



As an aside about two and a half weeks ago I bottled an extract IPA where I used six different types of hops, 11 oz. in total, and Wyeast 1318. Looks like the beer pictured in post #1573. I've opened and drank a couple so far, and upon opening they smell like an amazing combination of grapefruit and mango. The first sip is really good, but he flavor quickly falls off about half way through the glass. I'm just left with just a very slight tropical flavor and some underlying bitterness. Being new to brewing I'm not sure if that's due to my "frankenstein" recipe, my process, (I have to do partial boil - 4 gallon kettle), or something else entirely.

I was curious about the bottling wand as well. Don't see how that could introduce oxygen. Once I brew #3 and if it fades quick or some other issue associated with the transfer then I may stop brewing this type until I can get my keg system set up.
It takes me a month to go through a case since I'm the only one drinking it.
I even looked at getting a beer gun but to get that set up would cost almost as much as getting a keg system.

Unless a bottle is purged there's plenty of oxygen in it before you bottle. The bottling want introduces splashing for sure. I know you're filling from the bottom up and you're pushing out any oxygen but I have a feeling a wand still splashes enough brew around to introduce oxygen. Oxygen is the death of these beers. Just a thought I had but honestly haven't tried it.

The beer in post 1573 looks too dark to me. But that could be because of recipe or lighting during picture taking. That's what my oxidized beers started to look like. Im not saying it is though because I don't know the recipe or how lighting was during the picture. Here's what mine look like:
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1475144646.375009.jpg

 

[abbysdad2006]

Unless a bottle is purged there's plenty of oxygen in it before you bottle. The bottling want introduces splashing for sure. I know you're filling from the bottom up and you're pushing out any oxygen but I have a feeling a wand still splashes enough brew around to introduce oxygen. Oxygen is the death of these beers. Just a thought I had but honestly haven't tried it.

The beer in post 1573 looks too dark to me. But that could be because of recipe or lighting during picture taking. That's what my oxidized beers started to look like. Im not saying it is though because I don't know the recipe or how lighting was during the picture. Here's what mine look like:
View attachment 371798

Looks fantastic!! What recipe did you use?

 

[Projectfdw]

Unless a bottle is purged there's plenty of oxygen in it before you bottle. The bottling want introduces splashing for sure. I know you're filling from the bottom up and you're pushing out any oxygen but I have a feeling a wand still splashes enough brew around to introduce oxygen. Oxygen is the death of these beers. Just a thought I had but honestly haven't tried it.

The beer in post 1573 looks too dark to me. But that could be because of recipe or lighting during picture taking. That's what my oxidized beers started to look like. Im not saying it is though because I don't know the recipe or how lighting was during the picture. Here's what mine look like:
View attachment 371798

I'm not sure why my color is So dark either. I used the base recipe but used Marris otter instead of GP and also used S04. Doesn't have any hint of oxidation so I'm lost as to why my color is so dark.

 

[ultravista]

Projectfdw - I recently brewed a Heady Topper clone (Northern Brewer version) with an additional pound of CaraPils. The CaraPils was left-over from previous brew.

The color is nearly identical to yours. It tastes great and I don't pickup any flavor from the addition.

 

[armenianbrewer]

I'm not sure why my color is So dark either. I used the base recipe but used Marris otter instead of GP and also used S04. Doesn't have any hint of oxidation so I'm lost as to why my color is so dark.

A few pages back you can see my version where I used all MO for the base (88%) and my batch definitely came out dark as well, but I also had a higher gravity so I feel the slight maltier/darker and different hop usage actually turned out quite good... just came out more bitter than I wanted. Yet my version has zero sign of oxidation... just think that color might be due to the MO but I'll take another photo under better lighting as comparison

 

[lilbova3]

I'm not sure why my color is So dark either. I used the base recipe but used Marris otter instead of GP and also used S04. Doesn't have any hint of oxidation so I'm lost as to why my color is so dark.

Without doing any research, I'm pretty sure Maris Otter is darker than GP and 2-Row so that could be it. But without a recipe it's hard to exactly pinpoint your SRM and as I've stated it could be the lighting.

 

[lilbova3]

Projectfdw - I recently brewed a Heady Topper clone (Northern Brewer version) with an additional pound of CaraPils. The CaraPils was left-over from previous brew.

The color is nearly identical to yours. It tastes great and I don't pickup any flavor from the addition.

An additional pound of Carapils shouldn't effect color. Carapils is considered a crystal but it's so lightly kilned it only is 1 or 2 Lovibond. It shouldn't effect flavor or aroma much either but will contribute to mouthfeel and head retention.

 

[Schemy]

I have not..... not a huge fan of rye personally. However, for anyone who likes "Rye P.A.'s." absolutely - don't see why you could not do it. Could do either rye malt, flaked rye or a combo. I can't say what would be best, as I don't brew with it for the most part.

Not sure how the "spicy" rye would go with the "tropical" hops... so that might be a consideration in regard to hop selection too??

From what I've done with Rye IPAs in the past the tropical hops work well with rye. I have never done a RyePA in the NE style though. Was wondering how the water profile played with the rye, if it softened it or now.

I'll let you know as I'm brewing a beer with about 15% rye this weekend. So we'll see how that goes.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[lilbova3]

Looks fantastic!! What recipe did you use?

Thank you! This brew is:
32% GP
31% 2-Row
16% Flaked Oats (minute oatmeal)
14% Flaked Wheat
5% Carapils
2% Honey Malt

 

[Projectfdw]

Without doing any research, I'm pretty sure Maris Otter is darker than GP and 2-Row so that could be it. But without a recipe it's hard to exactly pinpoint your SRM and as I've stated it could be the lighting.

My recipe followed the base recipe except for the yeast and marris otter. However, I don't know exactly what type of wheat malt or honey malt they have in stock. So possibly it is as a bit darker. The color is exactly the same as when I transferred to the keg.

 

[abbysdad2006]

Thank you! This brew is:
32% GP
31% 2-Row
16% Flaked Oats (minute oatmeal)
14% Flaked Wheat
5% Carapils
2% Honey Malt

Cool, thank you! Same hop schedule as OP?

 

[crusader1612]

Thoughts on thhop bill below?

Not sure how far I'd need to bitter (Thinking a nice FWH of Chinook)
50g Cascade - 5min
50g Mandarina Bavaria - 0min - dry
30g Motueka 0min - dry
15g Mosaic 0min - dry

Planning on picking up in a few hours. depending on your thoughts?

 

[lilbova3]

Cool, thank you! Same hop schedule as OP?

This one was Simcoe:Nelson 2:1 in WP, Simcoe:Nelson 1:1 in fermenter at tail end of fermentation, then Simcoe:Mosaic 1:1 in keg dry hop. This was delicious!

Have also done a Galaxy:Citra 2:1 in WP, Galaxy:Citra 2:1 in fermenter at tail end of fermentation, then all Galaxy in keg dry hop. This is amazing as well!

 

[armenianbrewer]

I have what might be a little bit of a silly question, but does this style work with whole leaf hops just as much as it does with pellet hops?

 

[mintyice]

Here's a pic of that blonde ale I brewed. It actually turned out to be more of a NE pale than a blonde! Thanks LA3 + dryhops! It's delicious though.

 

[val214]

That looks fantastic, did u use the OP recipe?

I started with the OP recipe and after a few batches I tweaked a bit.

44% 2 row
28% Maris Otter
16% Oats (Flaked)
6% Carapils
6% Wheat (Flaked)

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1475281391.052217.jpg

 

[geepmaley]

For 11 gallons ( at dry hop stage 1 right now)

11lbs Muntons Maris Otter (43%)
8 lbs Great American two row (31%)
2 lbs Flaked Wheat (8%)
2lbs, 10oz rolled oats (11%) (whole container of Safeway rolled oats)
0.5 lbs Honey Malt (2%)
1.25 lbs Dextrose (5%)

1 oz Millenium (11.8 AA) FWH est 19.6 IBU
1 oz Millenium (11.8AA) 60 mins 19.6 IBU
2 oz Mosaic (11AA) 10 mins 13.2 IBU
2 oz Simcoe (11 AA) 5 mins 7.3 IBU
2oz Citra (12.3 AA) 1 min 1.8 IBU
Total IBU form boil 60

Wyeast 1318 yeast stir plate with yeast nutrient two step starter. est 400 billion cells

Chill to 160 for hop stand for 30 mins
1 oz Citra
1 oz Simcoe
1 oz Mosaic

Finish chilling to 70F, Split batch into 2ea 5.75 gallon batches pitch yeast OG 1.056 (66% efficiency)

Per split batch (5.75 gallons)
Dry hop in primary 6 days after brewing, SG 1014, let go for 4 days
2 oz Citra
1 oz Mosaic
1 oz Simcoe

Xfer to Secondary dry hop 2 for 5 days
1oz citra
1 oz Mosaic
1 oz Simcoe

Cold crash overnight, Keg and keg hop for a week
1 oz citra
1 oz simcoe

 

[rtracer]

Brewed this yesterday, first time using flaked Oats ect. My brother who does not brew came over right as I was mashing in, first thing he says is "mmmm Oatmeal" haha.

Anyways, something I noticed that I have not heard mentioned is how slick, or do I even say, slimy the wort felt after mashing. I BAIB so I end up squeezing the bag. I am going to have to assume this is from all the flaked adjuncts?

All went well and the post chill gravity sample had a nice sweet, hoppy, full, silky smooth feel.
Here is a picture of my sample taken over an hour after pulling. The sample had "cleared" as there was a layer at the bottom, but damn its hazy.

I'm done, Conan is up to bat

 

[brew703]

Bottled on 9/24- tried a bottle today. Fully carbed but the color FN sucks. Turned out copper in color. Only thing I can think of is it must be oxidation or something. Taste wise its pretty damn good. went for 30 IBU at FWH and the rest followed the OP's version. Next time brewing will be using 1318 but not sure on the hop bill yet. May also increase the oats & wheat a bit.
I really need to get a keg system

 

[Mofoa]

I know it has been said before, (OP confirmed their process in original post) in order to hit this style on the head, it is so IMPORTANT that you prevent any oxidation. To do that, you must minimize any contact with the air during the transfer. This means that using the standard auto-siphon from your bucket/carboy into keg is not going to cut it--and the flavor will off off--turn color.

Based on multiple forums--ideally, you will want to 1) purge the air out of your keg first, 2) then use C02 to transfer the beer out of the fermentor and into the keg. This will help ensure that the hops do not get exposed to air and will keep your aroma for a longer period and not turn your juicy brew into something that resembles an amber ale.

Google search for "transfer beer from fermentor into keg using C02" for further explanation/videos on youtube, etc.

You will also see a difference in your other IPA's by followng the above process.